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Also known as a spline jig. This is to replace a jig that fit my old Unisaw. Instead of runners attached to a bottom plate I had the idea (probably not original) to use the 45 degree supports for the runners too. I attached the 45's to a straight piece with biscuits then trimmed it on the tablesaw so the bottom of the V was slightly above the table top. I added boards to the front, back, and top (trimmed to 45 to match the cradle) to act as a blade guard. The runner/supports are 3/4" plywood and the rest is 1/2".

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Tim,

I like your compact design. This is a similar jig from my shop. Perhaps readers can compare and combing the two and find ideas that will work for their shop.

You might consider a wider board on the base of your jig and a handle so you can pull it back to you. The wider base lets me run the jig along the fence. This removes all the play in the jig.



If you spread the two sides of your "trough" apart a little, your box will touch both sides, but rests on the bottom. I like to use the back of the trough as a foot so I can stand this large jig out of the way on the floor next to the saw.



I see you are using clamps and a stop. I find that making marks on masking tape lets me lay out all the spline cuts for the box, is faster, and lets me line up cuts just as well.

 

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Cool idea - like the compact design
 

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I'll need to remake mine… thanks for the ideas. I also prefer using the table top slots vs using the fence as the guide (as I have seen for some designes) for the sled.

thanks for sharing.
 

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A jig like this/these is a gr8 addition, and works super
 

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Thanks all for the kind words and suggestions.

A couple of notes. I purposely designed it this way to see if I could use the V runners to also support the cradle. I spaced them in the grooves using a playing card so they move easily (especially sanded and coated with a little wax) and there is no slop or wiggle. One advantage of this design is to get the bottom of the V as close to the table as possible without touching or riding on the table top. Another is that the box size or width is not limited because it can hang over the edge of the cradle and there is plenty of room to attach stops or spacers.

Since I usually have some kind of stop clamped down (not with spring clamps) I use the clamp as a handle to push the jig with downward pressure so there's no chance of the jig riding over the blade and to keep the jig between my hands and the blade (can't be too careful, even with a SawStop). Since the cradle is attached with four screws it can be repositioned to make different types of slots (angled, wider, etc.) with zero clearence to prevent tear out. I will probably add some fine sanding paper to help grip the working piece. Another option is to add the plastic runner tape (I forget what its called) to make it easier to slide the jig.
 

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Nice jig and explanation : )
 

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very nice job sir, I built a similar one for my router table
 
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