Master Bedroom Remodel

Looks great Gary !

Gary. A very nice remodel. The walnut trim and beam looks fantastic. Too bad you couldn't find some 16' long black walnut.

How did you mild the trim?

looks great gary!
excellent work as usual.

Came out great.

Very nice treatment of the room's trim. Looks great!

Nice job, Gary.

Thanks y'all.

Karson, each type of trim is slightly different.
The windows were the most complex.
They have a regular Roman Ogee profile on the inside edge and a Vertical Panel Roman Ogee profile
on the outside edge.
The doors have a regular Roman Ogee on the inside edge.

The bottom edge of the picture rail molding has a regular Roman Ogee profile; the top profile is a
roundover with a 3/64 kerf cut on the back for the hanger. The face is ripped at an angle vertically
so the molding is thinner at the bottom.

All the ogee profiles were done on a simple homemade router table. I built a special fence for the
large profile on the windows-I milled an extra stout fence then drilled a hole to accept the hose
from a ShopVac so the large chips wouldn't clog the cut.
It was slow going-I really needed something with more chip clearing capacity but I got through the
job without much waste.
I did get a few spots with small tearout and some places where the profile needed refining.
I traced the profile onto a scraper using a sharpie, then using tin snips, I cut away that portion which
matched the profile, creating a small scraper which I then used to make sure the profile was nice and crisp.

The baseboards are simply ripped at an angle.

The windows were a real trick-the extension jambs protrude roughly 1/2" from the wall and there's
a rebate cut behind the smaller ogee profile to create a small reveal.
The walnut isn't thick enough to make the reveal and touch the wall without angling them back because of the extension jambs.
SWMBO was adamant that I was NOT to plane down the extension jambs!
We built the house in 1999, so there's been some settling and so nothing is 100% square anymore.
I wanted to be sure the miter joints on each window were completely gapless.
That gave me two choices:
I could cut a compound miter at each corner OR I could build the window trim like picture frames
then make custom "shims" from black walnut to fill the ever changing gap between the back of
the window trim and the drywall.
I chose the latter-it was a long, slow process but it was worth it.

I dry-fit each window as if I was building a picture frame.
Then, I glued them up using a Bessey Vario Angle strap clamp-that's a great tool!
The large window is so big, I had to add a section of strap to be able to reach and I had to glue
one corner at a time.
After each glue-up was done, I "snapped" the window trim up into place and collected measurements
to determine how to cut the gap-filler for each side.
I then ripped each of those on the bandsaw, took the window trim down, glued the filler pieces onto the
back of the trim-using "a few small brads to hold it in place until the glue dried" -and put them up
again to test the fit.
After some handplaning and some light sanding, the window trim was ready for installation.
Needless to say, the windows took me a long time but I'm 100% please with how they look.
Each mitered corner is as tight as this one:


If I ever undertake a project like this again, I won't tear out the old trim until I've already milled the new trim and it's ready to be installed.

Gary: Thanks for the explanation. I've got an older Belsaw planer that allows you to make moldings. I've actually made my own moulding knives for it using a thin metal cutting blade in a grinder and removing what I didn't need. and then hand filing to final size.

I was hoping that you had the use of a one cut machine, but it sounds like a lot of cutting with the router. My congratulations to you on that effort.

A very impressive job.

Looking good