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I have an order to make a few wine bottle balancers and the old fixture I had was too hard to control using a Forstner bit so I made a new one out of plywood. It works real well and needs no clamps because the guide and the part are contained on the sides and the bottom end. But it needs an improvement!!! I need to mill out just below the part to put in a sacrificial piece of scrap to be changed for each new part. When the Forstner bit comes through into a void, it walks to one side and freezes in the hole. By putting a piece of scrap under each cut, the bit will always have wood on all sides and will cut clean through. I also found out that silicone on a Forstner bit greatly reduces the heat and expansion of the bit.

This first balancer is made of 3/4" mahogany with a wine bottle pattern wood burned int the top. The hole is 1 5/16" at a 45 degree angle and the bottom angle is 50 degrees.

I was going to make a bottle inlay, but I broke the 1/8" carbide bit on the first try so that will be for another day.

It is finished with clear matte spray and will balance a full or empty bottle.

Gallery

Comments

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Nice setup Jim, I like how you did the bottle pattern on the holder
 

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Jim!

Thank you Thank you Thank you!!

Very nice.
 

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1,815 Posts
nice balancer and jig
 

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Nice jig there Jim to get tht angle just right, well done (as usual)
like the contrast insert :)
Pete
 

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Thank Jim.. Nice jig setup.
 

· In Loving Memory
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Another nice jig Jim, wine bottle balancer always intrigue people.
 

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Congrats on the top 3. Added to favorites - thanks for sharing.
 

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Nice jig, thanks for posting
 

· In Loving Memory
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Clever you are Jim!!! Really cool!!
 

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Hi Jim. First, that is a nice-looking balancer. I too like the wine bottle design. In the interest of learning, which is a hallmark of Lumberjocks, I'd like to make a statement and ask a question. I have no experience with wine balancers. However, a fellow LJ recently visited me and used my drill press to enlarge the holes he had cut slightly undersized in a good number of these balancers. The thing is, he indicated that the bottom angle is between 42 and 45 degrees but he drilled the holes with the piece lying flat (90 degrees) with no jig being needed. I saw him test a few and they worked fine. My question is, are there two (or more) schools of thought on the angle at which the hole should/can be drilled? Thanks.
 

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Boy thats definiately neat. I should make a should make a couple…
 

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Lookin really nice, Jim!! Keep up the good work
 

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Jim, fate is incredible, I've spent about four hours today experimenting with such a project, all of that time was taken with attempts to drill the hole at 40°, the mitre being at 45°. I ended up tilting the drill press table and clamping the wood with a thick piece beneath it. However I clamped the wood, the hole went in at an angle but excited perfect. I gave up in disgust after deciding a jig was the only way to go and came into the office and low and behold, here was your post! If only I had attended to my emails this morning!
 

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Lenny and Harry. The hole need not be at an angle like you can see in this project: ( http://lumberjocks.com/CueballRosendaul/blog/32006 ). The first ones I saw were cut at 45 degrees and it looked cool so that is how I approached it. I did find the bottom angle to be 50 degrees in one sketch. Actually the goal is to have the bottle not only balance but balance level and I had hit that on some earlier ones but can't find anything in my plans of how I did it. I guess I never wanted to get to making any more. I gave all my early ones away so I could not measure them.
There are few things at play here to make the bottle balance. You have to get the center of mass of the bottle- empty or full - over the center of the foot. So the bottle can be at any angle just so you satisfy that criteria. I make my balancers about 11" long and the distance from the bottom to the center of the front hole is 8". That should give anyone wanting to make then a starting point. The shape and the angle of the hole is up to the designer.
It seems to me there is a blog by Degoose but I could not find it. He has made a ton of them!!

When I get my fixture modified to have a replaceable bottom, I can experiment with different size holes to get it to balance level, too. I know when I put a straight hole in a board the bottle balanced but stuck up pretty high. I think Larry used a 1 3/8" hole.

.................Jim
 

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Hi Jim
Nice looking balancer and when you come up with the sweet spot formula please let us know .
How about stacking two pieces on top of each other or clamping the work piece and jig together?
Just some thoughts .
 

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Hi Kiefer. I started clamping 3 pieces together but it was a bear to keep hold of and I had clamps in the way with 3" wide pieces. I just milled out the pocket in the fixture 1" deep. I have some High school work to attend to and then I'll get back at it. With the replaceable piece in the bottom, I can make a couple different size guides for the top and try a variety of combinations to get it to balance parallel.
I'll be posting again on it!!
 

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Very kool Jim. I also seen a tip somewhere that is this: drill 2 small thru holes opposite each other at the inside edges of the hole the forstner bit will make to give a little dust relief and ease some of the heat off the forstner bit. Don't know if that may help or not. Just somethin I thought of.
 

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Just my luck, Roger, I'd drill the holes off and they would not clean up when the drill came through. I think with this replaceable scrap under the piece and some silicone on the drill , I'll be in business. I sprayed the drill today with silicone for a test and it went through a thick block much better!
.................Jim
 

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Jim, what a great project and jig. I like your style!

Thanks for sharing
 

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Nice balancer.Very good idea for drilling jig.
 
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