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Project Information

This is the second maple and ipe plane that I built recently. This one is a little different in terms of the adjuster. It has a "slow" Norris type adjuster, which is kind of what it sounds like. It takes greater movement of the adjuster knob to change the depth of the blade. Maybe a quarter turn for a small adjustment and a half turn for a large adjustment. The adjuster also has a strong magnet in it to hold it in place. I suspect this was to increase the stability of lateral adjustment (Norris type adjusters control both depth and lateral adjustments). I have found the magnet to be a nice touch but did not have problems using the adjuster without the magnet. This has the PM-V11 blade which is the top end Veritas blade. I have since found out that the PM stands for Powdered Metal, which is a process for making high-tech tool-steel alloys. This explains why this plane is able to hold such a sharp edge. I made this plane a little bigger (10 inches) and set it up so that it can take fine or deep cuts to be an all around shop tool. I am thinking it can be used to dimension rough lumber, jointing, or for fine finishing work. I will post some video on youtube shortly.

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I really like this plane. Was milling the ipe difficult? Did it glue okay?
 

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Allen,

IPE planes well (with hand planes), and is not that difficult to work with in general. I don't fully understand why, because it is like 3500 on the hardness scale. I think it is to do with its fibers and the wood grain. It will dull you blade a little quicker than domestic woods, but I think this is because of crystal-like (silica?) particles in the wood.

Ipe is oily. Here is what I did as far as gluing with PVA: 1. before gluing clean surface with rubbing alcohol (I have read some people use acetone, but I have not tried) 2. Use Titebond III 3. Glue and clamp as soon as the alcohol dries.

If not using Titebond III, use a good quality epoxy. I have also read CA glue works well on Ipe, but have not tried myself.

Thanks for the kind comments.

John

I made a video showing how I use the alcohol before glue up.
 

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Thanks John. I recently bought some West System G/Flex epoxy that's supposed to work for oily woods. I might try it.

I have tried hand planing ipe before and it felt like planing a rock. Do you use normal 45 deg frog bevel-down planes for it? I did get it to work but it wasn't easy.
 

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The west system is the gold standard for tropical wood. I would still wipe it down with alcohol right before glue up.

Yeah, I just use a 45 degree angle plane. Just have to have it surgical sharp and then touch it up periodically. I will try to throw up a video on youtube.
 

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Allen
Below you'll find a picture of the kind of shavings I get with IPE. I was smoothing the sides of the plane body you see in the photo. The biggest problem I have with the IPE is unexpected tear out. I think that even if there is no knot, that areas near what where knots were in the tree are affected. So it is really important to figure out the grain direction. And even then have some extra lumber, because these trouble spots just tend to explode wood fibers all at once in all directions.

 

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Hey John! Sweet plane! What is the bed angle? And is the iron bevel up or bevel down? I'm thinking of making one of these, quite similar to yours.
 

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It is a 45 degree bed with the bevel down. I would recommend going with the wider 2" (approx) width pm-v11 steel blade. This is becasuse there is considerably moire heft to the wider blade. However, this little "jack" plane has never let me down. Even end grain if it is just sharpened. I used this just recently on some customized width boards for a door frame repair in an older house. It just cut through cherry like butter. I like the norris adjuster very much and have no problems using it.
 

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It is a 45 degree bed with the bevel down. I would recommend going with the wider 2" (approx) width pm-v11 steel blade. This is becasuse there is considerably moire heft to the wider blade. However, this little "jack" plane has never let me down. Even end grain if it is just sharpened. I used this just recently on some customized width boards for a door frame repair in an older house. It just cut through cherry like butter. I like the norris adjuster very much and have no problems using it.

- cicerojoe
Thanks! I too really like the norris adjusters. And thanks for the comment about the 2" iron. I was eyeing the narrower one, but I'm glad you mentioned this, as I really prefer wider irons. I own a couple Veritas planes and like them all…
 
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