Project Information
Hi all!
I made this table as a gift for my sister and her new hubby for their wedding. It was very well received.
For the top I chose a very nice piece of QS Bubinga. Not quite waterfall figure, but very nice none the less. It is a single board a hair under 13" wide. I would have like the top to be a bit longer on this table, but that board was the nicest I could find and my board streching machine went down so it is the length it is.
I ran the top board thru my Dewalt 735 on the low feed rate (higher cuts per inch) and had very good results. I was a bit worried about tear out with the figure, but got NONE. I love that planer. I touched it up a bit with a smoother hand plane and then sanded to 400 grit. The finish on the top is several coats of shellac sealer, followed by about 6 coats of WB Poly (General Finishes product). It was sanded up to 1500 grit before applying a good quality paste wax and polishing with a power polisher.
The base is made from QS African Mahogany (Khaya Sp.) I loved the chattoyance in the 2 boards I used. The 4 curved aprons were cut from a single board, and the legs and top supports were cut from another. It took me many sketches and a few alterations on a full scale drawing to get the leg curves right. They are about 3 1/4" at the widest point, and a full 1 3/4" thick. I found the slight curve to the top of the legs a very nice design feature that really added to the overall look. I wanted to darken the mahogany slightly and achieved this with a good coat of Black Walnut Danish Oil. That was topped with several coats of shellac sealer, Then finished with 4 coats of the same WB Poly as used on the top. Sanded to 600 grit.
The aprons are connected to the legs with a quadruple dowel joint (3/8" x 2" dowels) using my Mortise Pal jig. Another great tool. For simplicity, and because you don't see them, I used pocket hole joinery to connect the top supports to the aprons and table top clips to connect the top to the top supports. I would have prefered to plug and hide the pocket holes but I could not find mahogany plugs and ran out of time to make my own.
I had a lot of fun designing and making this table and am extremely pleased with how it turned out. A few minor changes would have made it near perfect. I think it's one of my nicest projects to date, and I already have a request from a friend to build another.
I hope you like it too. Thanks for looking and reading.
Ryan
I made this table as a gift for my sister and her new hubby for their wedding. It was very well received.
For the top I chose a very nice piece of QS Bubinga. Not quite waterfall figure, but very nice none the less. It is a single board a hair under 13" wide. I would have like the top to be a bit longer on this table, but that board was the nicest I could find and my board streching machine went down so it is the length it is.
I ran the top board thru my Dewalt 735 on the low feed rate (higher cuts per inch) and had very good results. I was a bit worried about tear out with the figure, but got NONE. I love that planer. I touched it up a bit with a smoother hand plane and then sanded to 400 grit. The finish on the top is several coats of shellac sealer, followed by about 6 coats of WB Poly (General Finishes product). It was sanded up to 1500 grit before applying a good quality paste wax and polishing with a power polisher.
The base is made from QS African Mahogany (Khaya Sp.) I loved the chattoyance in the 2 boards I used. The 4 curved aprons were cut from a single board, and the legs and top supports were cut from another. It took me many sketches and a few alterations on a full scale drawing to get the leg curves right. They are about 3 1/4" at the widest point, and a full 1 3/4" thick. I found the slight curve to the top of the legs a very nice design feature that really added to the overall look. I wanted to darken the mahogany slightly and achieved this with a good coat of Black Walnut Danish Oil. That was topped with several coats of shellac sealer, Then finished with 4 coats of the same WB Poly as used on the top. Sanded to 600 grit.
The aprons are connected to the legs with a quadruple dowel joint (3/8" x 2" dowels) using my Mortise Pal jig. Another great tool. For simplicity, and because you don't see them, I used pocket hole joinery to connect the top supports to the aprons and table top clips to connect the top to the top supports. I would have prefered to plug and hide the pocket holes but I could not find mahogany plugs and ran out of time to make my own.
I had a lot of fun designing and making this table and am extremely pleased with how it turned out. A few minor changes would have made it near perfect. I think it's one of my nicest projects to date, and I already have a request from a friend to build another.
I hope you like it too. Thanks for looking and reading.
Ryan
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