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SHOP-Made Grip-N-Rip Cutting & Assembly Instructions

What you will need:

1) Some scrap Hardwood (recommended) or Plywood 3/4", 1/2" & 3/8" thick.
(make sure you plane the hardwood before beginning).

2) 10 - 1/4" x 20 tpi x 2 inches in length bolts with square nuts.

3) 4 - steel threaded 1/4" x 20 tpi dowel plugs

4) 1 - piece of Non-Slip Router mat. The kind advertised that you can
lay a piece of wood on and route it without it moving.
(You will have TONS left over)!

5) 1 - piece of 1/8" rubber matting

6) Aproximatley 20" of metal T-Track 3/4" wide and mounting screws.
Note: You will have to drill and countersink holes in this for
the mounting screws once you have cut it to length.

7) Some 2-Part Epoxy Glue. I recommend the quick set type.

8) Some Contact Cement.

9) I would recommend making a couple of these up at the same time.
Your gonna use them..:)

By looking at the pictures of what I have posted this will all make sense.
Ok let's begin…......

1) Making the MAIN FRAME:

a) First glue together 2 pieces of 3/4" hardwood (recommended) or plywood
cut at 8-1/4" x 7-1/4". Now your Main Frame will be 1-1/2" thick. Once
the glue sets - now trim this block down to 7-3/4" length x 4-3/4" wide.
It's important that the Main Frame is square cut.
"Keep the long piece that you cut from the side when you trim this. You
will be using it to make the Adjustable Middle Gripper."

b) Depending on the depth of the T-Track you purchased mine was 3/8" deep
x 3/4" wide, now route a 3/4" dado (that's the width of the T-Track)into
both ends of the main frame "in the CENTER" 3/4" DEEP.

c) Next route a rabbet completley around the TOP of the main frame on the outside
edge 3/8" x 3/8". This will form a 3/8" lip around the entire frame with a
3/8" inset. Try this on a scrap piece first to make sure the cut is accurate.

d) Now route a 3/4" wide channel 3/8" deep into the "Center" of the top of the
Main Frame across the width. This is for the locking T-Track channel for the

e) Next route two 1/4" x 1/4" channels across the with of the top of the Main Frame
one at each end 2" from each end on center.
These are for the squaring blocks to slide in for the HANDLE.

f) Now drill 4 mounting holes 3/8" in diameter (for you threaded dowel plugs)
into the top of the Main frame two at each end. These will be drilled 1-1/2"
x 1-1/2" on CENTER from the ends and sides aproximatley 3/4" deep (you may have
to go a little deeper depending on your dimensions of your steel threaded dowel plugs.

g) Cut a small strip 1/4" wide x 1/2" deep x aproximatley 9" long. Cut 2 lenghts of that at
1-1/2". You will be cutting the rest later to insert into the HANDLE track on the
Main Frame as stop blocks for the HANDLE so that it aligns correctly when adjusted
from side to side.

h) Now cut your T-Track to length for the slots (one on each end and one in the middle)
and EPOXY and screw them into the main frame.

2) Making the SIDES:

a) Cut 1 piece of 3/4" hardwood 7" long and 3-1/8" wide and 1 piece of 3/8" hardwood - 7" long x
2-3/4" wide.

b) Next - Take the 3/4" piece and route a 3/8" x 3/8" dado along the top edge. This will
allow this piece to inset flush into the 3/8" x 3/8" dado that you cut around the top of the
Main Frame.

c) Now take a 1/2" forstner bit (or just slightly bigger than the diameter of your Bolt Head)
and countersink "about" a 1/8" hole or slightly deeper, (this is to inset the BOLT Head
below the surface). Countersink these holes 1-1/8" on center from both ends and 3/8" down
from the top edge.

d) Take these pieces to your drill press and assemble one side at a time onto the MAIN
FRAME (countersunk holes to the top). Make sure that you SQUARE it flush with the top
(under the lip) and flush with both ends. Holding these pieces one at a time "Securley"
drill a 3/8" hole about 1- 3/4" deep through the center of your countersunk holes into the
main frame cross channeling the Steel Dowel Plug holes you cut earlier.

e) Take your 3/4" side now and drill two small pilot 1/16" holes through the side centered 1-3/8"
below your other two mounting holes.
Once you have done this "ON THE BACKSIDE" using your forstner bit countersink (using your
pilot hole as a center point) a 1/8" depth hole. This will bury your metal threaded pronged
insert flush with the surface. You may have to go a little bit deeper, just make sure it's not
protruding out.
Now drill a 3/8" hole right through the center, EPOXY and insert your metal threaded pronged
insert into the holes on the backside. I put these in my vice and sqeezed them in.

f) Now INSERT your (4)STEEL DOWEL PLUGS into the top of the MAIN FRAME and bolt your sides
onto it.

3) Making the Adjustable Middle Gripper:

a) Cut the 1-1/2" thick block that you saved now from the main frame when you trimmed it
down to 7" in length and 1-3/8" wide.

b) Cut 2 end mounting pieces 1-3/8" wide out of 3/8" hardwood 3-1/8" long.

c) With the sides assembeld onto the Main Frame and placed on a flat surface (table saw table?)
slide the Adjustable Middle Gripper into the center of the frame. Now taking your 2 end
mounting pieces place them onto the ends of the Adjustable Middle Gripper and check to
make sure that everything aligns properly. They should fit flush underneath the 3/8" top lip
of the Main Frame and flush to the table on each end with the Adjustable Middle Gripper block.
If you need to make adjustments do it now.

d) Both sides now and the Adjustable Middle Gripper should all sit flush with with table.
Once you are happy with the fit while holding the end pieces in place on the Adjustable
Middle Gripper underneath the frame mark the center of where the top side centers with the
T-Track (where the center of your nut will be) and drill a 3/8" hole through each end piece
in the center using your reference mark.

e) Now EPOXY and brad nail the end pieces to your Adjustable Middle Gripper ends.

4) Making the Adjustable Side Support Frame:

a) Cut 1 piece of 3/8" hardwood 7" x 6" and one piece 7" x 3-1/2"

b) Cut three 45 degree angle support blocks out of 3/8" stock 1-3/4" each.
I ripped a piece of 3/8" stock 1-3/4" wide x 8" long and used my Miter Saw to cut out the
45 degree angles. Quick and acurate.

c) Take your 7" x 6" piece now and router or Scrollsaw two sliding bolt chanels, one on each side.
Note: These channels line up CENTER with two additional mounting holes on the 3/4" side panel.
Start 1/2" from the top and go down to 1" from the bottom.

d) Now measure in from the TOP 2" from each side and using you square draw a line down from the
top 2-1/4" deep. Now join those two lines with a square and cut out the piece in the center.
This leaves you with two arms on each side, like in the picture. You can round the bottom
edges when you cut this out, for cosmetic appeal.

e) Now take your 7" x 3-1/2" piece and router or Scrollsaw in two bolt slots 3/8" wide x 1-1/2"
in length 1-5/8" on center from each side.

f) OK.. Now assemble the pieces. Stand your 7" x 6" piece up so it's setting flush with the table.
EPOXY or glue and Butt the 7" x 3-1/2" piece up to it. Brad nail them together.
Next take your 3 45 degree angle supports and glue them flush to each end and one in the center.
I "DID NOT" Brad Nail these, I just let them set up, using clamps to hold them and the other
pieces at 45 degrees.

5. Making the HANDLE:

Although I used composite handles that I bought in my examples I have posted (lazy me) I will be making
wooden ones for my newest Grip-N-Rips out of Walnut and Maple.

a) So…. Using 1-1/2" thick stock x 6-1/2" long & 1-1/2" wide draw and cut out your handle.
You can look at the handle design that's posted and I'm sure you can draw one.

b) Next take a 3/8" thick piece of stock and cut it to 6-3/4" in length by 3" in width.
Center your handle length and width wise onto this piece and EPOXY and screw it together (from the underside,
don't forget to pre-drill some small holes).

c) Once the handle is assembled take it to the drill press and drill a 3/8" hole through the center of the handle.

d) Next drill a 3/8" hole directly below it through the plate. I drilled a small hole 1/8" right through the handle
and through the plate before I did this so that I could place the holes exact on center to each other.

e) Now router in two 1/4" wide channels x 1/4" deep. (These line up with the channels cut in step (e) of
Making the Main Frame.) and Epoxy and insert the two 1-1/2" pieces you cut in step (g) of Making the MAIN FRAME into the CENTER of these channels.

f) Ok… Assemble the handle onto the top frame. First move the handle assembly to the right side until it aligns flush with the side without going over and LOCK it down. Now (and you do the same as this for the other side)

g) Now take the extra small strip 3/8" wide x 1/2" deep strip from step (g) of Making the MAIN FRAME and slide it into the slot until it butts up against the piece apoxied into the handle frame. LEAVE it there.. Remove the HANDLE and mark with a pencil where the insert stops and also the length to the outside of the frame.

h) Now remove it.. cut it to length and apoxy it back into place. Now the handle can never be over adjusted.
NOTE: When you are doing this on the 3/4" side when you EPOXY the piece in, "DO NOT" put "EPOXY" onto the 3/8" overhang of the FRAME side. You want to be able to remove the frame side if needed. So just leave that bit of it..un-glued.

6. Gluing on the Gripper Pads:

Your almost done..:)

a) First take some contact cement and apply it to the edges of both sides and the bottom surface of the
middle gripper. Make sure that you spread it evenly over the whole surface.

b) Now cut a square of your Non-Slip Router pad, maybe 8" x 8", you want something to work with here is all. Apply Contact Cement to the surface of 1 side of it.

c) Now take another piece of your rubber matting 8" x 8" if that's what you used for the Non-Slip Router pad piece and coat one side of it with contact cement. Let them dry.

d) Now join them together (maybe use a rolling pin) and press them together firmly.
When you are happy that they are bonded well together flip it over with the rubber matting up
and apply a coat of contact cement to this side of it now. Let it dry.

e) OK… Dis-assemble your Grip-N-Rip and start with whatever piece you want.
I started with the side pieces.
Align the outside edge of your side piece with the egde of your pad.. be careful to align it flush
and press them together firmly. Take an exacto knife or sharp cutter and while holding the two together
trim off the waste. Repeat these steps for the other side and your Adjustable Middle Gripper bottom.

f) Now re-assemble the jig and ENJOY!.

One final Note:
If you wanted one side to be 1/4" instead of 3/8" it's simple. With the sides mounted and
BEFORE you put the router pads on, set your fence to 1/4" on your table saw and the blade depth NO HIGHER than the bottom of your main frame. Hold the Grip-N-Rip tight to the fence and run
it through the saw. Voila! a 1/4" side. Maybe make one of each if you wanted..

"DISCLAIMER:" These plans are posted free of charge (for reference only) , and only because some people requested to know how I built mine. I do not guarantee the accuracy or responsibility for anyone who uses these plans to make a jig like I have done. If you decide to make this Jig you do it totally at your own discretion and risk.
I will not be held responsible for any injuries you may encounter while using your own shop-made jig.
You must agree not to hold me liable in any way for your copying or using these plans, that are posted.
Once again they are for reference only, with the sole purpose being to explain how I made this jig.
There is no gurantee of it's usefullness or functionality.
If you do not agree with this, you should not copy or use these plans.
Thank you.

"DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user."



6,838 Posts
Thanks ;o)

These are the most elaborate instructions I've seen in a WHILE! thumbs up.

9 Posts
What a refreshing response to the "storm" I read last night in response to your initial posting!

I must say, I am greatly impressed by:

Your ingenuity
Your craftsmanship
Your instruction
and, most of all, by your "taking the high road" by posting this follow-up.

Be well,

4,916 Posts
Thanks, David … I have paid $$$ for plans that were not as well done as your instructions!

12 Posts
Thanks! I'll be making a pair of these this weekend for me and my son. Great instructions.

810 Posts
You made your own GrrRipper! I'm impressed. I have one, but I bought it. Looking up the spelling of GrrRipper just now, I ran into this. If you're not a member of SawmillCreek, too, you won't see the pics, but basically, the side support you lower to keep the push block level when both feet aren't in contact (wood isn't wide enough) was down on a piece that was just as wide as the GrrRipper itself. This meant that when it got through the other side, the side support pushed the cutoff side into the blade and caused a kickback that put the GrrRipper in contact with the blade, gouging it, though the poster wasn't injured. As a safety precaution to anyone with this tool, or the GrrRipper, make sure there's some clearance between the side of the wood and the wall of what your plan here calls the removable support. Scary stuff.

Also, great job, and great writeup!

305 Posts
Hi Gary,
Thanks for input. I as well as everyone who makes one will appreciate that info. What would you recommend? Like a 1/2" spacer or something. between the sidewall and Main Frame?
Thanks again..

305 Posts
Hmm I just read the article you linked to Gary and it said the solution was:

"The prevention should have been, not to have had the apron down for this cut. A splitter would not have prevented this one from happening as the wood would not have reached it before the kickback started. It didn't hurt me or the blade, but my GrrRipper got a souvenir gash in it."

Everyone please take note and read the article that Gary kindly linked for us all.

1,600 Posts
Are guys saying that if the piece that pushes down on the cut-off isn't making enough contact it can cause the kickback? I think that's how I'm understanding this. And, it makes sense too. I've had instances like that, where the jig was just touching the cut-off piece and it didn't look right to me. I added a spacer on the fence side and just stood to the side just in case the sliver of wood came back toward me.
- JJ

810 Posts
I think the basic thing that caused this was that the wood was the same width, or just a hair wider than the footprint of the GrrRipper without the apron. Because of that, with the apron on, and down, it was hugging the cutoff side - opposite the fence - against the blade, so when he got past the back of the blade, the apron actually pushed the cut piece into the back of the blade. It's sort of equivalent to having a featherboard pushing the cutoff into the saw blade. If the piece had been 1/2" narrower, it wouldn't be butted up against the inside wall of the apron, so it wouldn't have been pushed in. In that case, the outer foot - opposite the fence - wouldn't have been sitting on the piece at all, and the apron would have been appropriate.

For cuts that just don't line up well, putting the outer foot opposite the fence right in line with the blade, I've just double-stick taped a smooth block of wood to the fence side of the block to jog it out enough that the blade passes safely between the feet. Just make sure the block is big enough with enough tape that it sticks securely, and so that it glides securely on the fence. You don't want the push block to tip in any direction because that block is too tiny. There are screw holes on both sides for the apron to screw into. I could probably make something that uses those with a block of plastic intended for this purpose, and it could be added to this homemade version easily, but it would probably require a counterbore to sink whatever fasteners are used into the wood, so they don't hit the fence, which would require something like a hex key or screwdriver - not quite as easy as thumbscrews. Double-stick is easy enough.

1,624 Posts
Thanks Dave. I still did not mean to stir up a contriversy on your original post. I apologize and I do appreciate that you made the plans available.

1,083 Posts
Great project, I should have seen this before I spent $59.50 for my GRR-Ripper…...a nice jig to tave.

9,134 Posts
Great project.

In Loving Memory
153 Posts
Thank you for sharing this David

305 Posts
Just as a follow up. Another member Dave (great name) contacted me and is going to do all of the plans in detail in Sketch-Up for everyone. Then he's going to put them into a PDF file so it's downloadable.
So everyone has that to look forward to, as well.

If while building this anyone comes up with any errors in my measurements I've posted please post those errors and your corrections.. on here to share with everyone. I checked and double checked everything but I think, if my memory serves me well?? I've made the odd mistake in the past.. Hmmm Hopefully not this time.

305 Posts
A MISTAKE in my measurements, I just found it. Sorry…
Making the Sides - (A) Should read like this…..
I've now made the corrections up above but anyone who copied these earlier will end up with the 3/4" side cut 3/8" too short on the width if they cut it to what I had previous. I originally said to cut them both the same size and that was incorrect.

Making the SIDES:

a) Cut 1 piece of 3/4" hardwood 7" long and 3-1/8" wide and 1 piece of 3/8" hardwood - 7" long x
2-3/4" wide.

305 Posts
I would like to emphasize to everyone that these are "FREE PLANS" to make a SHOP-MADE version of the Grip-N-Rip like the one I made.

Another correction in the plans is:

1) Making the MAIN FRAME:
b) Depending on the depth of the T-Track you purchased mine was 3/8" deep x 3/4" wide, now route a 3/4" dado (that's the width of the T-Track)into both ends of the main frame "in the CENTER" 1/2" DEEP.

It should be "in the CENTER" 3/4" DEEP…... NOT 1/2" DEEP.