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Project Information

Planing and jointing lumber is crucial to a tight fitting and square project but… a jointer over 6 1/2" gets pricey and a planer can make your material flat but takes special sleds to get the job done. So, I had this out feed table and starting figuring the dimensions I would need to use some 1" conduit and roller skate bearings to make a easy to move flattening jig to plane my lumber up to 3' wide by 5' long. This has been the absolute most versatile and useful jig I've made so far. I milled the boards for bench I made for my mother because they were cupped and warped so if I ran them through my planer they would have just contoured to that shape so I just shim the up and use my clamps to hold the boards in place then mill them flat. I am working on a dining table and milled some 6"x8" oak boards to 5"x7" with this jig in no time at all and they end up extremely flat and square. I am also in the process of redesigning my linear rails and bearings along with and entirely new x axis bridge which once I'm done I'll post a new project of it.

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There are cases when man realy need this jig (including myself - but my worshop garage is realy to small for it) - nice work.
 

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I like this idea. I've done a planning of a slab before using the technique, but I like your thought process with the bearings and movement. Nicely done. really like the clamping porcess.
 

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Waiting for your improved plan although I don't see a need for anything better than what you've shown here. Hope you give a detailed description of the blocks that hold the wheel bearings as they appear complicated but critical to the project…Jim
 

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That's a really nice design. Looking forward to seeing the redesign :)
 

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That kind of looks like a integrated down draft table. Is It?
 

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I do it a little differently, but same concept. Only a 6" jointer and 14" planer in the shop. Since I make smaller things I only needed the length to be 4'. The twisted, warped and curled boards aren't that easy even on a wider jointer.

I just route a 1" slot on each side of the board on the edge until it is flat for the wood length and then put "flat" wood strips in the slots. Then I plane the untouched side until flat using the strips to give the planer a flat reference. Next is to flip it, remove the strips and plane that side. I use hot glue on the strip sides.

There was an article in FWW several years ago about just using shims to get the top of the rough board as flat as possible to an underneath flat sled and then run it through the planer.

Steve.
 

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I used to have a similar setup for slabs but it was a casualty of a house move. I have never seen it done quite like that with the pipes and roller wheels. I like it! I think when it comes time to build a new one, I might just steal this design. Very cool. Thanks for sharing!
 

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Here's the first design change, I made new linear bearings with 5/16" rods connecting the 2 halves so that I can loosen or tighten them to fit the rails better. The second change is the linear rails, I made the supports 2 1/2" tall which adds a lot more stiffness to them. I had to use a piece of wood with a hex cut out on the end to hold the nut so I cold get the bolts tightened from the supports to the rails.
 

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I want to make one SOMEDAY ! I think a person would get a LOT of use from it.
Looks like a Ron Paulk table design underneath, another useful idea !
 
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