Delmar Caboose Restoration #1 - How-to and How-Not-to build a window.

The Mason-Dixon Woodworkers Club was asked by the restoration committee in charge of restoring the Caboose built in 1929 on the old railroad property, to assist them in doing some of the restoration.

They didn't have any funds so they were not only asking for assistance but for us paying for our own materials.

They asked if we could remake two windows and one door that have been vandalized and have just rotten away. And to also replace some of the siding boards that have rotted. David standing in front of the caboose.



The door needing replacing.


So we took one of the old windows out as a sample and also as the measurement. What is interesting is that the original window was made too small and so they nailed a strip on one side to make it wider.



The window measures 21 7/8 X 23 1/2. The only wood that we had that was 1 1/4" thick was only 23 1/2" long. So immediately, no room for errors.

I'm making two windows. I HOPE THEY ARE THE SAME SIZE!
I cut 6 pieces for the sides. (I needed 4) 2 1/2" wide one had a split so I knew it was a practice piece.
I cut the two pieces for the window top (no spares) 1 5/8" wide. I cut the two pieces for the window bottom (no spares) 1 7/8" wide
I cut 8 pieces for window mullions, (i only need 4, more practice pieces) 3/4" wide. All pieces were jointed and planed to 1 1/8" thick.



So the first thing I did was try to figure out the window router bits. The set I had was one that you take apart and reassemble for each of the cuts. The sides and the board ends.

After much trial and error I got the bit assembled for the side molding and the channel for the window glazing.



I did a practise cut on the split board. LOOKS OK.

I then reassemble the router bit to make the end cuts.



One the side cut you run the wood through the router table face down. When you run the router cut on the end it is face up. (REMEMBER THAT).

So I'm now sitting with the end cut router bit in the router table. So I say, the cross pieces are a little long so I won't use the practise piece. I'll use the real wood.

I proceed to cut 4 ends of the 4 pieces that go sideways. I then come to the realization that I had used 4 of my side pieces instead of the 4 cross pieces. These pieces of course were originally the exact length so they was no way to cut the wrong cut off and reuse the board. (Problem #1)

So I now get the correct pieces and cut one end. I measure how much of the wood would overlap (1/4") and I measured the side pieces 21 7/8" rounded up to 22 to rip after all assembled subtract 2 3/8" for the real side width X 2 and I got 16 1/4". I now trimmed my cross pieces to length and cut the ends on those pieces. I laid them up with the sides pieces (that were destroyed earlier) to check my measurements.

Oops too short, it should have been 17 1/4. I measured twice and it was still too short. (Problem #2)

So now I'm sitting with 1 side piece (An extra I made) and the 8 mullions because I've not tried them yet.

Back to the wood to make some new sides and new ends. Of course the sides that I had run a practise cut on had also been cut to the 16 1/4" length so I could not reuse them for the shorter end pieces. (Problem #3)

Total wood count 10 sides (needed 4) 8 ends, needed 4. 8 mullions need 4 not practiced on them yet. The new pieces.



I cut the correct cuts on the new sides and on the new and correctly sized end pieces. I hold them together so I can get the correct measurements for the mullions.

Now cutting mullions, is an experience in fear with your hands close to a spinning router bit. So I hold the first piece up to the router table and I place one of my now extra side pieces beside it to hold it into the router bit, and I use a push stick to feet the mullion into the spinning router bit.

OK one side cut.



Now the second one to go. There is a trick to cutting the second side. You take a piece of wood. (My split piece) and you run an end cut (that you would normally put on the end of the ends) and you run it full length on a piece of wood. You then put the mullion that has one side cut into that cut. It fits tight, if it doesn't you can use double face tape.



Those of you who are sharp may notice problem #4 as it happens.

You now run it against the router bit and you end up with appropriate mullion.



I cut my 4 mullions to the required length and start getting them ready to dry fit.

Oops (Problem #4). Remember the clue earlier. Cut end cuts face up and side cuts face down.
One of my mullions had gone in face down.



So reset up the router bits to cut another mullion.

Dry assembly.



I cut the cross mullions into two pieces and glued them up separate at 90 degrees.



And then final gluing.



All glued up. One window the second is in the clamps.



First window, lots of raised panels but first window. Someone else is having the glass put in and getting the caboose repainted.

Now a door to go and siding.

Additional projects Doors.


Siding


Completion