Project Information
Back when woodpecker made their one-time tool quick radius jigs, I knew this was something that would get a lot of use in my shop, so I made my own. There were two limitations I wanted to overcome with that design though; only two radii per jig could be used, and because of the required positioning of the stops, the jig wasn't really suitable for pattern (top bearing) routing unless the two unused stops were removed.
So back to the drawing board for designing a more versatile radius jig. On my old jig (which did get used a TON), I liked the size, finger hole and stops, so I repeated those, only using 3/4" baltic birch plywood this time instead of 1/2" and 3/8" polycarbonate for the stops instead of 1/4". I also lengthened the stops by 1/2".
The big change, though, is how the stops attach. Instead of just screwing the stops to the jig body with screws, I drilled and tapped 1/4-20 threads in two holes on each side of the jig body and through holes in the stops. Small thumb screws are used to attach the stops in the proper locations to use the desired radius. I chose the 4 most used in my shop, but could easily make another if needed.
Using the jig is identical to the old one; with the jig placed on top of the workpiece whose corners need to be rounded, I set up a flush trim bit at the router table so the bearing rides along the jig body. The finger hole in the jig is for holding the jig in place while routing.
Based on how much use my old non-adjustable jig got, I can already tell this one will be used even more.
So back to the drawing board for designing a more versatile radius jig. On my old jig (which did get used a TON), I liked the size, finger hole and stops, so I repeated those, only using 3/4" baltic birch plywood this time instead of 1/2" and 3/8" polycarbonate for the stops instead of 1/4". I also lengthened the stops by 1/2".
The big change, though, is how the stops attach. Instead of just screwing the stops to the jig body with screws, I drilled and tapped 1/4-20 threads in two holes on each side of the jig body and through holes in the stops. Small thumb screws are used to attach the stops in the proper locations to use the desired radius. I chose the 4 most used in my shop, but could easily make another if needed.
Using the jig is identical to the old one; with the jig placed on top of the workpiece whose corners need to be rounded, I set up a flush trim bit at the router table so the bearing rides along the jig body. The finger hole in the jig is for holding the jig in place while routing.
Based on how much use my old non-adjustable jig got, I can already tell this one will be used even more.
