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This is great Bob. It is a miniature version of some big mills I have seen. I'll be looking to see some of the finished pieces that started here.
 

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Thanks Ron:
I just checked your Website and it looks like you have me beat with that mother of all Wood misers!

I was actually thinking of a smaller rig for retirement to grab up some of the Urban forest here which is currently going to the mulchers.

Bob
 

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Bob,

Now you can saw your own logs the way you want. Who knows what "rare jewels" of wood are locked in some of those inconspicuous logs out there.

Way to go!

Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
 

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Bob,

Question:

When can you cut a log up like this?

I imagine that they have a lot of water in them when newly cut. Do you have to wait any length of time?
 

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Bob, that's pretty cool. The pipe clamp holds the log in place against the front upright and the back upright just aligns the pipe clamp? Is that correct?
 

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Mot:
You are sharper than me.
It took me a few glances at the jig before I realized I didn't need big bracing on the ends.
I am going to make up a larger foot for the free end of the clamp with a bit of sponge on it to give a bit more bite where the ends are not flush with the clamp face.
Right now I am making a small outfeed table to carry the log across to my table saw out feed for a bit more stability.
 

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Tom:
I generally leave my logs whole for at least a year to help prevent cupping . It doesnt stop checking on the ends but it seems to eliminate waney slabs after I cut them. The pros say to get the wood down to 12 % humidity then cut em.
I have sofar just covered my stuf on top with a tarp and let ma nature do the drying.
The boards drop to around 8% when I bring them into the shop for stickering.

Bob
 

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I like it Bob, I'm showing your thread on my Rikon review.
 

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Bob,

Thanks for your reply to my question.

I think I'm going to have to start looking for some downed trees, so I can start cutting my own logs. It seems like it would be fun to mill your own lumber - especially if you could get some rare woods for small projects.
 

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We have a compost dump in our town, & you can also haul your brush there,. sometimes I pick up some short logs there. I recently brought home some 8 to 10" cedar logs, about 3' long.
 

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Hi Bob

I do not understand this comment "The pros say to get the wood down to 12 % humidity then cut em"

I cut lumber all the time, and I cut it wet. If you wait for a log to dry out to 12%, depending upon the size of the log you may have to wait longer than your own lifetime.

Bandsaw the logs wet - sticker them (12" apart) and place a concrete block on top. leave them outside until they achieve about 18% (you do not want that moisture in your shop - do you?) then move them inside and nleave them until you get the desired MC (moisture content)

Just for intrest my "Bird Cherry is now down to 12% inside and 25% outside http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Tikka/blog/1352 I am going to get to use it sooner than I thought

do not forget to clean the saw and blades - wet wood and nice shiny steel = RUST
 

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You could be right Tony.
I am quoting from a Finewoodworking video that I watched this morning.
There is an interview with a professional Sawyer (Dave and Carol Spacht) and those were his recommendations.

I did not know what my wood had as a percentage . I don't have a moisture meter.

I used to weigh it but now I just do it as I said.

A I said, I leave it under a tarp for a year then cut and sticker it.
So far no problems.
I think it might vary with the density of the wood being dried with pine, spruce etc being faster that say Beech and birch?
I am at the stage in my life where I no longer buy ripe bananas so I guess I'm due for kiln dried wood too . <vbg>

Bob
 

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That looks to be very usefull, I have a old bandsaw very old I don't know if I could ever resaw like this but it would be worth a try.
 

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Jeff:
I have and older version of this jig that I used on an import 14".
If it could help you, I would be happy to post it.
Power is a big factor in smooth cutting but patience got me through many times.

Bob
 

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Bob -

Very useful posting . . . I might have to build a smaller version for my saw.

Thanks!
 

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Thanks Dave:
I had a smaller version on my 14" import and it worked fine .
I would caution you that you are likely to want/need some 24" rails from some of you stock as well as a few legs so try to make the carriage a long as possible for the event.
p.s. I checked your Website- nice stuff love the cherry.

Jeff:
I had pretty good success with and old 1/2 hp 14 incher so don't be afraid to give it a shot.
You can manage ( just manage) with a 1/2" x3 tooth blade.

Bob
 

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great sled! as soon as i get a bandsaw i'm going to be making one of these. thanks for all the pictures and information.
 

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Favorited… I do a lot of resawing on my old Delta 14" bandsaw and I need one of these. Let me know if you would do anything differently before I start mine. Thanks for the very detailed explanation and photos!
 

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kb here you guys talking about getting the moisture down to 12% which is correct for the minwest but you are not talking about dry kiln down to 12 % just airdry and that in my judgment that is not the thing to do the only wood i have been told that will air dry and stay there is cedar and if not kiln dryed to kill the molicules it will take moisture back and you will have a mess, cracks, swelling couping etc. a'm i wrong kb
 

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That was one interesting report. .. Nicly explained. I have a 15 General bandsaw and have been playing with ideas like this in my head for a while now. After seeing this post it all come clear…. Thanks for sharing and the inspiration.
 
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