You are sharper than me.
It took me a few glances at the jig before I realized I didn't need big bracing on the ends.
I am going to make up a larger foot for the free end of the clamp with a bit of sponge on it to give a bit more bite where the ends are not flush with the clamp face.
Right now I am making a small outfeed table to carry the log across to my table saw out feed for a bit more stability.
I generally leave my logs whole for at least a year to help prevent cupping . It doesnt stop checking on the ends but it seems to eliminate waney slabs after I cut them. The pros say to get the wood down to 12 % humidity then cut em.
I have sofar just covered my stuf on top with a tarp and let ma nature do the drying.
The boards drop to around 8% when I bring them into the shop for stickering.
I think I'm going to have to start looking for some downed trees, so I can start cutting my own logs. It seems like it would be fun to mill your own lumber - especially if you could get some rare woods for small projects.
I do not understand this comment "The pros say to get the wood down to 12 % humidity then cut em"
I cut lumber all the time, and I cut it wet. If you wait for a log to dry out to 12%, depending upon the size of the log you may have to wait longer than your own lifetime.
Bandsaw the logs wet - sticker them (12" apart) and place a concrete block on top. leave them outside until they achieve about 18% (you do not want that moisture in your shop - do you?) then move them inside and nleave them until you get the desired MC (moisture content)
You could be right Tony.
I am quoting from a Finewoodworking video that I watched this morning.
There is an interview with a professional Sawyer (Dave and Carol Spacht) and those were his recommendations.
I did not know what my wood had as a percentage . I don't have a moisture meter.
I used to weigh it but now I just do it as I said.
A I said, I leave it under a tarp for a year then cut and sticker it.
So far no problems.
I think it might vary with the density of the wood being dried with pine, spruce etc being faster that say Beech and birch?
I am at the stage in my life where I no longer buy ripe bananas so I guess I'm due for kiln dried wood too . <vbg>
I have and older version of this jig that I used on an import 14".
If it could help you, I would be happy to post it.
Power is a big factor in smooth cutting but patience got me through many times.
I had a smaller version on my 14" import and it worked fine .
I would caution you that you are likely to want/need some 24" rails from some of you stock as well as a few legs so try to make the carriage a long as possible for the event.
p.s. I checked your Website- nice stuff love the cherry.
I had pretty good success with and old 1/2 hp 14 incher so don't be afraid to give it a shot.
You can manage ( just manage) with a 1/2" x3 tooth blade.
Favorited… I do a lot of resawing on my old Delta 14" bandsaw and I need one of these. Let me know if you would do anything differently before I start mine. Thanks for the very detailed explanation and photos!
kb here you guys talking about getting the moisture down to 12% which is correct for the minwest but you are not talking about dry kiln down to 12 % just airdry and that in my judgment that is not the thing to do the only wood i have been told that will air dry and stay there is cedar and if not kiln dryed to kill the molicules it will take moisture back and you will have a mess, cracks, swelling couping etc. a'm i wrong kb
That was one interesting report. .. Nicly explained. I have a 15 General bandsaw and have been playing with ideas like this in my head for a while now. After seeing this post it all come clear…. Thanks for sharing and the inspiration.