Tom Regnier was my recipient. I saw EarlS post a finished project on a speaker he made his wife just before this swap started and decided I had to make a speaker box. I went to woodworkers source online looking for wood when I came across roasted red oak. I had never seen roasted red oak before and decide that was what I had to use. For a contrasting wood I went with red oad. I dont like to make things easy on myself so I decided I wanted to make a hexagon. I am not very good with mitres so it was a little tricky. Used pine 2×6 to test my mitres and of course I was off. But took a break to watch a youtube video on it and realised what I did wrong and cut the edge grain of the roasted oak on both sides to 30 degrees. Then I had to decide how deep to make it and cut the pieces. After that was done I cut a dado 1/4" from the edge in the roasted red oak to fit the piece to mount the speakers. Milled and glued up the red oak to fit the space leaving a little bit of room in the dado for wood movement. Glued the roasted red oak up with the red oak in the dados(no glue in the dado). Then I drilled the holes for the speakers which I found out were not the right size since I had a loose fit. After that I cut 2 splines in each mitre with a handsaw and use the red oak as splines. I had extra kerf in the wood so I decided to timt some epoxy and fill it. I put alumilite dye flo yellow in the epoxy and began filling the kerfs while gluing in the splines. The yellow wound up turning a neon green once put on the roasted red oak. Then I cut and sanded the sides and splines. Then I glued and cut the back piece. I left extra so I didnt cut off too much. Started trying to sand it flush and tealised quickly that wasnt gonna work so I focused on a couple of corners. From there I proceeded to mark drill and glue in magnets which I planned to use to hold the back on. Somehow I measured wrong and the back wouldnt sit right so I drilled a hole and put a screw in the back which cracked since ai didnt use a countersink bit. Glued the crack shut and this time used a countersink bit. Once screwed on I was able to use a flush trin bit in my router to flush the back. Then I sanded and applied 3 coats of watco danish oil. The danish oil really made the epoxy pop. I decided to use hot glue to hold the speakers and controller in the holes so they could easily be removed if they need to be replaced later. As a bonus gift I turn a blank I cast and put it on a device/stylus kit from penn state.