Project Information
April 7, 2015
UPDATE: Drawings added to end of post for those who have this switch on their Unisaw.
Here is my original switch for my Unisaw.
![]()
To increase the safety factor on my tablesaw, I decided to add a "paddle" safety switch to my Delta Unisaw.
It's a relatively simple solution.
PARTS:
3 - pieces of wood
(2) Sides = 3 X 7 X 3/4 inches
(1) Paddle = 5-1/8 X 7 X 3/4 inches
2 - 1/4 inch all thread rods 5-3/4 inches long
4 - nuts
4 - washers
2 - metal rods 1-1/2 inches long
![]()
SIDES:
Before the left and right sides were cut to shape, 1/4 inch holes for the all thread rod and the pivot holes were drilled while the pieces were held on the drill press together.
Then the Left and right hand shapes were cut.
PADDLE SWITCH:
After cutting the paddle to shape a hole for access for the start button was drilled.
A recess in the area of the stop button was drilled in the back of the paddle.
Two holes for the 2 metal pivot rods were drilled and the rods inserted.
I decorating the front with my wood burning tool.
All edges on all wood parts were rounded over. Danish oil was used on all wood parts.
The paddle is now ready.
![]()
The recess for the STOP button was made so that the paddle could be positioned closer to the switch housing and the START button would be closer to the surface of the paddle. I'm estimating that 1/4 inch movement is all that's required to activate the STOP button.
The parts are then assembled loosely …
![]()
… and slipped over the switch housing.
![]()
The side pieces are 1-1/2 inches longer than the sides of the original switch housing. When the all thread rods are installed, the design allows for UP and DOWN as well as IN and OUT movement on the original switch housing to make positioning the paddle switch easy.
After the hole in the paddle is centered over the START button by moving the assembly UP or DOWN, the assembly is then moved IN or OUT on the switch housing till the paddle hangs properly. The nuts are then tightened on the all-thread rods … tight enough so that the safety paddle switch doesn't move.
The original switch box was not harmed in this installation.
![]()
Now I have a bigger target to shoot for if I need to shut the tablesaw off in a hurry.
Thanks for looking. Comments and questions welcomed.
DRAWINGS:
The following is an experiment. I've included SU drawings of the parts. Please let me know if they are useful. If not I will remove them from this post.
![]()
LEFT SIDE
![]()
RIGHT SIDE
![]()
PADDLE LAYOUT
![]()
PADDLE PIVOT HOLES
![]()
PADDLE RECESS HOLE
End of experiment.
Please leave a comment and let me know if the drawings are helpful. Thanks.
UPDATE: Drawings added to end of post for those who have this switch on their Unisaw.
Here is my original switch for my Unisaw.
To increase the safety factor on my tablesaw, I decided to add a "paddle" safety switch to my Delta Unisaw.
It's a relatively simple solution.
PARTS:
3 - pieces of wood
(2) Sides = 3 X 7 X 3/4 inches
(1) Paddle = 5-1/8 X 7 X 3/4 inches
2 - 1/4 inch all thread rods 5-3/4 inches long
4 - nuts
4 - washers
2 - metal rods 1-1/2 inches long
SIDES:
Before the left and right sides were cut to shape, 1/4 inch holes for the all thread rod and the pivot holes were drilled while the pieces were held on the drill press together.
Then the Left and right hand shapes were cut.
PADDLE SWITCH:
After cutting the paddle to shape a hole for access for the start button was drilled.
A recess in the area of the stop button was drilled in the back of the paddle.
Two holes for the 2 metal pivot rods were drilled and the rods inserted.
I decorating the front with my wood burning tool.
All edges on all wood parts were rounded over. Danish oil was used on all wood parts.
The paddle is now ready.
The recess for the STOP button was made so that the paddle could be positioned closer to the switch housing and the START button would be closer to the surface of the paddle. I'm estimating that 1/4 inch movement is all that's required to activate the STOP button.
The parts are then assembled loosely …
… and slipped over the switch housing.
The side pieces are 1-1/2 inches longer than the sides of the original switch housing. When the all thread rods are installed, the design allows for UP and DOWN as well as IN and OUT movement on the original switch housing to make positioning the paddle switch easy.
After the hole in the paddle is centered over the START button by moving the assembly UP or DOWN, the assembly is then moved IN or OUT on the switch housing till the paddle hangs properly. The nuts are then tightened on the all-thread rods … tight enough so that the safety paddle switch doesn't move.
The original switch box was not harmed in this installation.
Now I have a bigger target to shoot for if I need to shut the tablesaw off in a hurry.
Thanks for looking. Comments and questions welcomed.
DRAWINGS:
The following is an experiment. I've included SU drawings of the parts. Please let me know if they are useful. If not I will remove them from this post.
LEFT SIDE
RIGHT SIDE
PADDLE LAYOUT
PADDLE PIVOT HOLES
PADDLE RECESS HOLE
End of experiment.
Please leave a comment and let me know if the drawings are helpful. Thanks.
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