New Basement Workshop Pics #3: First ZCI & first near accident...

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Blog entry by shimster posted 01-31-2011 08:11 PM 1869 reads 1 time favorited 10 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Table Saw Assembled. Next: dust collection & shelving. Part 3 of New Basement Workshop Pics series Part 4: TS Alignment & ZCI Update »

So, after assembling my TS, I was excited to try my first cut with stock blade & stock insert. I was cross-cutting (?) some scrap LVL stock to make sawhorse legs, when one of the cut-offs, slid in between the blade and insert binding the saw blade to make it stop. One of the teeth actually broke off of the blade and was embedded into the off-cut. I re-enacted the scenario in the photo below.

My first reaction was, “Oh man, this is why people use zero clearance inserts”. So, I made my first one. Problem now, is the blade seems to be ‘off’. Obviously the wedge had it bent way over, and I’m sure if I removed the blade, it’s bent, but I didn’t assume it would be off by a full kerf. See photo of installed ZCI and blade not being parallel with fence in locked position. (Note: Fence is parallel with table, etc.)

So, my questions are these:
1) Why not speed up the purchase of a WWII now that my blade is shot?
2) Is there a chance this bent the arbor (or something similar) or knocked the blade out of alignment?
3) I was sort of going with the factory settings regarding alignment, and wasn’t planning on aligning perfectly until such project warranted. Perhaps I should speed this along.
4) When saw is unplugged, and I spin blade by hand on new ZCI, it definitely rubs once per revolution when it shouldn’t.
5) Can I keep this blade with the missing tooth (sounds like my cousin Earl) for rough cuts, etc.?
6) I have riving knife. I suppose I should set this up ASAP as this would help with safety?

-- Less is More.....expensive

10 comments so far

View Bertha's profile


13567 posts in 3173 days

#1 posted 01-31-2011 08:22 PM

Wow, scary stuff. I would definitely address the binding before I purchased an expensive new blade. I’d relegate the chipped saw blade to wall art. The engineers around here will have better advice about alignment than I can give. I can simply say I’m glad you’re OK.

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View Chris Pond's profile

Chris Pond

63 posts in 3527 days

#2 posted 01-31-2011 08:51 PM

I drop my saw blade and I really don’t trust the blade now even after it was fix:( That is why I don’t put my saw blades on the wall they lay flat. This sound what I have run into not have a zero clearance insert, I now do use one.

There is some good info at find Wood Working on setting you saw up. That been said you should be able to see you movement of the blade if it is out with a T square this will tell you if your even close or not. Remember to keep the saw unplug well doing this.

Good Luck

-- Chris, Fernie, BC

View superstretch's profile


1531 posts in 3173 days

#3 posted 01-31-2011 08:56 PM

My thought is.. if the blade isn’t wobbling and its off axis that much, something else is wrong, like the motor jacked over one way. If the arbor or blade was bent, the blade would wobble, would it not?

-- Dan, Rochester, NY

View PurpLev's profile


8551 posts in 4128 days

#4 posted 01-31-2011 09:05 PM

1. stock blade that came with that saw is garbage, I keep it for “green” pallet wood, or cuts that I don’t care about and just need to make something smaller. = get a better blade. does not have to be a WWII, there are other options out there (oshluns are good at half the price)

2. I doubt this jam caused the motor/arbor to get bent, the motor is more likely to bog down and stop before it’ll break. that said – do take the blade off and check for arbor runout. this is one of the first things I did, if nothing at least you’ll know that the saw itself is good to go and will remove any unknown from the equation.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View PCTNWV's profile


99 posts in 3284 days

#5 posted 01-31-2011 09:21 PM

I would first replace the blade (and unless you have a lot of money in the one missing the tooth get rid of it), then check the alignment. If it is still off I would start looking towards the arbor and motor alignment. There are lots of articles out and about on how to check TS blade alignment.

I would put the riving knife / guard back on the saw for general safety.

-- Troy, Virginia

View Mike Gager's profile

Mike Gager

665 posts in 3747 days

#6 posted 01-31-2011 09:49 PM

the incident likely just threw the blade out of alignment. id check that

View shimster's profile


96 posts in 3486 days

#7 posted 01-31-2011 10:24 PM

Thanks everyone. Looks like I’ll go with a $50 blade for now along with checking the alignment. Let’s hope the manual is clear about this one.

-- Less is More.....expensive

View spamfilterman's profile


149 posts in 3502 days

#8 posted 02-01-2011 05:08 AM

I had nearly the same thing happen to me. Except I was using a taper jig….

And this was with my WWII in the saw. It was jammed up and bent overly nicely. The saw made a really ugly noise.
I unplugged it, removed the offending cutoff, spun the blade a couple times by hand to see if it was obviously bent, and it looked ok. Then I plugged it back in, crossed my fingers, and turned it on. No obviously issues. I’m still using it.
So I say get the WWII :-)

View cabmaker's profile


1745 posts in 3289 days

#9 posted 02-01-2011 05:15 AM

Hope it works out for you. Before you go to a lot of effort making zci s ,etc. try those mitres with the long point addressing the blade first and see how you like ! Good luck with it. JB

View KPW's profile


226 posts in 2848 days

#10 posted 12-28-2011 09:48 PM

zci’s are great for safety, but expect to get a lot of xtra dust on the table even with a great DC. By the way, I took the riving knife/anti kickback/blade guard off my craftsman 10” table saw years ago because I couldn’t see a darn thing I was cutting and I have the sliced fingers to proove it.

-- Ken --------- never try and put 5 lbs. of tenon in a 3 lb. mortise.

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