Stanley #45 #3: Stanley #45 Tote Removal

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Blog entry by sfglass posted 06-02-2016 12:43 AM 1370 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 2: Cutter screw and wheel removed all I lack is the Tote Part 3 of Stanley #45 series no next part

Tote removal on my Stanley #45.
I scoured the interwebs and didn’t find anyone to point me in the right direction regarding removing the tote on my #45. My tote was in good condition but the plating on the frame is flaking off badly and rust has begun pitting the metal where the nickel has come off. I would not be happy with it in that condition and determined that sacrificing the tote, if it came to it, was a price I was reluctantly willing to pay.

On the left side of my tote were two exposed pins slightly shy of flush with the wood. There was nothing showing on the opposite side. I surmised that the pins were press fitted through holes in the left side aligning with holes in the frame. I considered that it was possible that the pins were shouldered to provide a limited set depth. It was also possible that the pins extended into the right half of the handle into a predrilled hole with or without a stop shoulder. The visible ends of the pins did not appear to be perfectly perpendicular to the surface of the wood. I assumed the pins were slightly peened into place, but without extending through to the far side to provide for bucking during the peening process it didn’t really add up.
I decided to try drilling the pins out with the understanding that if the pins were not square with the frame then I was almost certainly going to end up with a really boogered up #45, but I was already at that point. Drilling was a disaster, the lower pin was very out of square, the upper pin wasn’t much better. After drilling from the exposed side and attempting to follow the pins with limited success I drilled in from the opposite side and tapped what remained of the pins out the way they came in. As it turns out there was no shoulder, and the pins did extend into the far side of the handle by about 1/8 inch.

I don’t think the tote on my #45 or any other #45 with this arrangement can be removed completely unscathed.
If I ever have to do another I will take accurate measurements and drill in from the far side with a bit about twice the size of the pins, tap the pins out, drill out the frame and the near side to match the new one in the right side and set a brass rod through and through with epoxy, cut and polish flush, which is what I intend to do if I get the frame looking good enough.
Wish me luck with electrolysis on the frame. Bet the nickel plating makes a mess.


2 comments so far

View canadianchips's profile


2632 posts in 3602 days

#1 posted 06-12-2016 03:40 PM

On mine i used arbor press, pressed them out from side that you couldn’d see pin.
After i finished the plane I put tote back on. Used Rosewood plugs and closed up holes. Pin holes are hardly visible.
I am glad you are restoring plane, rather than just tossing it away and letting it RUST some more.

-- "My mission in life - make everyone smile !"

View sfglass's profile


26 posts in 1409 days

#2 posted 06-13-2016 12:37 PM

If I had known exactly how they were set up, I wouldnt have a cobbled up tote now, oh well. I am considering using some pear to build the replacement tote. I have some bradford pear I saved from one that died off a couple of years back. Its some really nice wood. If it works out well I’ll make a knob to match. It’s not like I need to worry about originality any more.

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