Part 3
This is my third post on this project.
I'll be posting the progress of this project through its competition.
This is a drawing of the top left part of the frame without the corbels, in response to a question from Blueridgedog (who has some beautiful Arts and Crafts builds on his project page) about how the top of the frame was put together.
The drawing shows how the top portion of the frame is held together with biscuits and dowels. The dowels go through parts A-1& A-2, part D, and part B on both sides of the upper frame.
Part D was also glued to the bottom of part B.
These dowels are over 2-1/4" long.
These photos show me cutting the square openings for the screw plug covers that cover the screws that attach the bottom shelf Part i to the lower corbels parts J with 1-1/2" stainless steel screws. The lower corbels were glued now their reinforced with screws. This has to be done before attaching the bottom portion to the upper parts A-1 & A-2 and F.
Here I'm putting screws through the pre drilled holes into parts i and J, showing the square holes and square covers before I glued them over the screws.
There are two of these one on the right and left side of the lower shelf.
The dowels have already been glued in place.
Here's the square screw plug cover planed and sanded.
Putting screws into the back of the lower corbels parts J through parts H.
Here I'm drilling the dowel holes on part D.
Dry fitting the upper parts to the lower glued parts to check the dowel alignment.
All dowels align and its time to glue the lower parts with the upper parts.
Gluing and clamping the styles and rails to the lower part.
While I glued and clamped the lower parts to the upper parts I also glued in the upper corbels parts K.
After the the glue dried on the upper corbels I drilled and placed #6 1-1/2" stainless steel screws through the rear of part B into the corbels part K for added strength.
I have better luck putting the screws in after the glue drys.
Fine tuning the rear panel that covers the rear of the mirror.
I mix my own stain from artist oil pigments.
Applying the stain. The lighting made this stain appear more yellow than it was. I did add some more burnt umber to it, to calm down the yellowing affects of the raw sienna.
That's all I have for now.
I'll be posting the last part of this series in a few days.
This is my third post on this project.
I'll be posting the progress of this project through its competition.
This is a drawing of the top left part of the frame without the corbels, in response to a question from Blueridgedog (who has some beautiful Arts and Crafts builds on his project page) about how the top of the frame was put together.
The drawing shows how the top portion of the frame is held together with biscuits and dowels. The dowels go through parts A-1& A-2, part D, and part B on both sides of the upper frame.
Part D was also glued to the bottom of part B.
These dowels are over 2-1/4" long.
These photos show me cutting the square openings for the screw plug covers that cover the screws that attach the bottom shelf Part i to the lower corbels parts J with 1-1/2" stainless steel screws. The lower corbels were glued now their reinforced with screws. This has to be done before attaching the bottom portion to the upper parts A-1 & A-2 and F.
Here I'm putting screws through the pre drilled holes into parts i and J, showing the square holes and square covers before I glued them over the screws.
There are two of these one on the right and left side of the lower shelf.
The dowels have already been glued in place.
Here's the square screw plug cover planed and sanded.
Putting screws into the back of the lower corbels parts J through parts H.
Here I'm drilling the dowel holes on part D.
Dry fitting the upper parts to the lower glued parts to check the dowel alignment.
All dowels align and its time to glue the lower parts with the upper parts.
Gluing and clamping the styles and rails to the lower part.
While I glued and clamped the lower parts to the upper parts I also glued in the upper corbels parts K.
After the the glue dried on the upper corbels I drilled and placed #6 1-1/2" stainless steel screws through the rear of part B into the corbels part K for added strength.
I have better luck putting the screws in after the glue drys.
Fine tuning the rear panel that covers the rear of the mirror.
I mix my own stain from artist oil pigments.
Applying the stain. The lighting made this stain appear more yellow than it was. I did add some more burnt umber to it, to calm down the yellowing affects of the raw sienna.
That's all I have for now.
I'll be posting the last part of this series in a few days.