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Recycled timber work

188K views 425 replies 44 participants last post by  Boxguy 
#1 ·
The basics

There are quite a few LJs asking about the pros and cons of working with recycled timber.
I use recycled timber regularly and thought my experiences may be of benefit to others.

Lets look at the availability and what's actually available from the bottom of the pile and then up to attractive sort after timber.

From the bottom

Packing crates, pallets and general shipping products.

Lets look at pallets,
They are generally made from a very diverse range of materials.

Commercial Pallets

The commercial reusable ones are usually hardwood and are not generally thrown away or discarded, so beware if it has a brand painted or has what looks like substantial construction and also very heavy it generally is not something you should touch without ensuring you have permission.

If you are able to get them they are usually always embedded with small stones on at least one side, masses of nails and possibly nail plates on the end grain.

Don't under any circumstances use your top end wood working gear on them, simply break them apart and reuse as is, they will last for years.

If you do need to work them accept the fact you will encounter foreign objects, stone, metal and just about anything else, hence the comment regarding top end wood working gear.

Ruin a tungsten blade, HSS Blade or the likes and the cost effectiveness of recycling is in one hit not sustainable.

This also includes magnetic loop testing beforehand, miss one object and its all over red rover.

Packing Crates and soft wood pallets

These are found just about everywhere and the businesses that have goods delivered in them are in most cases pleased to get rid of them at no cost to them.

Again just ask first, common courtesy and also check the conditions they expect you to comply to, meaning take everything, take whatever you want, and it usually comes with a don't make a mess doing so, this is also an etiquette requirement if collecting stuff, ensure the location is tidier when you leave that before you arrived and you will never have any problems and can return regularly to eye ball what is available.

Recognition

Usually of softwood construction, with composite materials like OSB, plywood, Plastic and Particle board being used in their construction is common.

Foreign Objects

Expect bolts and nuts, captive nuts , staples, screws, coach bolts, washers, Gang nail plate and heaps of machine inserted nails.

Now these nails/staples are a real concern, so read carefully,...they can recognised by a serrated section on the shank when you pull one out, or what looks like a small barb attached to the shank, look closely at them they are usually held together in strips by non ferrous wire! so here is the problem may arise, firstly the mag loop may not pick up the remaining metal in the timber, but it could be still embedded in the hole.
Jewellery Font Metal Hair accessory Pattern


So plan to expect the unexpected

The timbers themselves

most of the timber is rough saw full of knots, weak points, twists, bark and all sorts of variances in thickness.

Considering its original role was a one task job its understandable.

However it can be reused with a little TLC.

You can also get some nice varieties of timber mixed in the pallets, as they are include for use as off cuts or sub standard structural timber discards.

The ply wood and OSB are usually D standard, meaning the gaps knots and the likes will be visible along with variances in thickness, but again you may find some small gems.

So after checking all this at the site you still decide its something you can use so it lets go a step further.

Getting the gear home.

Loading requirements and the law.

Don't assume just because its free you are exempt from any traffic laws, you are not, make sure you are not overloaded, the gear is secure and meets all requirement for transit.
Getting busted when moving recycled timber is not funny and again puts it into the not sustainable category yet again, it may have been "free" but you do not want to have a traffic fine in the process.

At home

You are now up for quite a bit of extra work, but that will do for now.
 

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#2 ·
Shop management of recycled timber

Ok so you have got your recycled timber home.

Depending on your circumstances the storage or immediate use is up to the individual.

Handling and Storage


Remember its recycled wood discarded from a supplier so there will be possibly exposed nails and screws which could injure you, so use protective gloves if required and watch when stepping on the pile for puncture risks.

I forgot to mention earlier there is also a trend to use plastic pallets these days although not really of secondary use they can make a suitable base to store your timber on.

Normal timber storage requirements are needed much the same as your other stocks of timber.
This is a consideration needed to be done before hauling it home, and then when it is home as well as you don't want the wife getting annoyed whith your new found "treasure"

Examination and breaking down

A couple of possibilities are available depending upon what you intend for the timber.
Store it "as is" or break down and store

Storing as is.

Stack and or cover as normal timber,

Breaking down.

Have a good look at the timber and work out the best way to dismantle it.
There is a high possibility you may only recover 50% of the wood.
For example if a section its full of nails it may be worthwhile sacrificing the complete section with the nail heads in and save the attached sections, but sometimes the nails final position upon removal will make this decision for you!

If its a pallet or butt jointed timber with nails.

Suspend one half high enough for all the nails to withdraw when separated, place a piece of scrap timber on the other half and hit with a sledge hammer or similar this will separate the pieces.
repeat the process until everything is in individual sections.

If it has Nail plates.
Blue Triangle Wood Grass Wood stain


Nail plates are fairly easy to remove if you know how so,

Armed with an old screwdriver or chisel find the terminating end of the timber and prise up the nail plate.
Wood Gas Hardwood Metal Font


Then with a big pair of pliers roll the nail plate out over itself do this as its the easiest way to remove them and it does not to bruise the timber any more that necessary.
Wood Hardwood Wrist Heat-shrink tubing Metal


T Nuts

Tableware Serveware Drinkware Auto part Household hardware


T nuts are easy to remove just select a screw of suitable size and wiggle them out by hand, you may want to keep them for later reuse.

Nails.

Nails can be removed by a series of methods.
One and the most simplest method is tapping back from the point end until the head is exposed the using a claw hammer and scrap remove the nails.

Nail clusters

Sometimes there are a cluster of nails you cannot get to easily.

You can also use a metal working vice and clamp the nails and with a piece of scrap tap the timber to remove a cluster of nails, once the heads are exposed simply invert the timber and clamp the heads and lever the wood to remove them all at once.

Big Bolts, Screws, washers and coach type bolts.

These are some of the types of fasteners that you can remove and reuse.
Bolts just undo them with a suitable size tool, if the have nuts at each and turn you can grind them off or clamp with vice grips on the shank.

Screws, they come in all shapes and sizes recessed hex Robertson head, plain and cross recessed.
Again select a suitable tool and remove, also a possible consideration for reuse.

Staples.
Grasp with a pair of bull nose pliers and pull straight up, in most cases they come straight out, if not lever the center up with a screwdriver or similar and try again.

Stubborn objects and head breaking off.

These pose a real problem for later, especially if they are forgotten because the are hard to see so get a black texta or similar and mark the area clearly so the area with the remainder can be identified later.
Screws not moving ? Try screwing them in first then try to back them out.

If they snap off above the timber on the way out chuck them up and battery drill them out, or clamp vice grips on them.

OK all finished?

Well I did warn you there was some extra work involved when working with recycled timber and this is the easy part over, well almost over.

Clean up time

Scraps.

Metal
recycle bin or reuse, don't leave nails screws and the likes just lying about for the mower to find or motorcycle to be suddenly fitted with an ice spike tyre. let alone somebody stepping on one.

Timber
A word of caution, do not burn any scraps in your SCS unless you can positively identify what it is, as preservative treatments, and or glue may/will produce toxic gas on combustion.
best to go into the Scrap bin for reuse, or general waste bin for disposal
 

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#3 ·
Shop management of recycled timber

Ok so you have got your recycled timber home.

Depending on your circumstances the storage or immediate use is up to the individual.

Handling and Storage


Remember its recycled wood discarded from a supplier so there will be possibly exposed nails and screws which could injure you, so use protective gloves if required and watch when stepping on the pile for puncture risks.

I forgot to mention earlier there is also a trend to use plastic pallets these days although not really of secondary use they can make a suitable base to store your timber on.

Normal timber storage requirements are needed much the same as your other stocks of timber.
This is a consideration needed to be done before hauling it home, and then when it is home as well as you don't want the wife getting annoyed whith your new found "treasure"

Examination and breaking down

A couple of possibilities are available depending upon what you intend for the timber.
Store it "as is" or break down and store

Storing as is.

Stack and or cover as normal timber,

Breaking down.

Have a good look at the timber and work out the best way to dismantle it.
There is a high possibility you may only recover 50% of the wood.
For example if a section its full of nails it may be worthwhile sacrificing the complete section with the nail heads in and save the attached sections, but sometimes the nails final position upon removal will make this decision for you!

If its a pallet or butt jointed timber with nails.

Suspend one half high enough for all the nails to withdraw when separated, place a piece of scrap timber on the other half and hit with a sledge hammer or similar this will separate the pieces.
repeat the process until everything is in individual sections.

If it has Nail plates.
Blue Triangle Wood Grass Wood stain


Nail plates are fairly easy to remove if you know how so,

Armed with an old screwdriver or chisel find the terminating end of the timber and prise up the nail plate.
Wood Gas Hardwood Metal Font


Then with a big pair of pliers roll the nail plate out over itself do this as its the easiest way to remove them and it does not to bruise the timber any more that necessary.
Wood Hardwood Wrist Heat-shrink tubing Metal


T Nuts

Tableware Serveware Drinkware Auto part Household hardware


T nuts are easy to remove just select a screw of suitable size and wiggle them out by hand, you may want to keep them for later reuse.

Nails.

Nails can be removed by a series of methods.
One and the most simplest method is tapping back from the point end until the head is exposed the using a claw hammer and scrap remove the nails.

Nail clusters

Sometimes there are a cluster of nails you cannot get to easily.

You can also use a metal working vice and clamp the nails and with a piece of scrap tap the timber to remove a cluster of nails, once the heads are exposed simply invert the timber and clamp the heads and lever the wood to remove them all at once.

Big Bolts, Screws, washers and coach type bolts.

These are some of the types of fasteners that you can remove and reuse.
Bolts just undo them with a suitable size tool, if the have nuts at each and turn you can grind them off or clamp with vice grips on the shank.

Screws, they come in all shapes and sizes recessed hex Robertson head, plain and cross recessed.
Again select a suitable tool and remove, also a possible consideration for reuse.

Staples.
Grasp with a pair of bull nose pliers and pull straight up, in most cases they come straight out, if not lever the center up with a screwdriver or similar and try again.

Stubborn objects and head breaking off.

These pose a real problem for later, especially if they are forgotten because the are hard to see so get a black texta or similar and mark the area clearly so the area with the remainder can be identified later.
Screws not moving ? Try screwing them in first then try to back them out.

If they snap off above the timber on the way out chuck them up and battery drill them out, or clamp vice grips on them.

OK all finished?

Well I did warn you there was some extra work involved when working with recycled timber and this is the easy part over, well almost over.

Clean up time

Scraps.

Metal
recycle bin or reuse, don't leave nails screws and the likes just lying about for the mower to find or motorcycle to be suddenly fitted with an ice spike tyre. let alone somebody stepping on one.

Timber
A word of caution, do not burn any scraps in your SCS unless you can positively identify what it is, as preservative treatments, and or glue may/will produce toxic gas on combustion.
best to go into the Scrap bin for reuse, or general waste bin for disposal
I pick up church pews when I can and always break them down first. I even keep the hardware that's worth saving… screws, bracket/supports, washers.

Used lumber I will inspect for nails/screws and take out any that are obvious. Then it goes into my "better check this with a metal detector pile" until I get around to it, but at least I know not to use material from this pile. Afterwards, it goes into either my church pew pile (backs, seats, supports, and a box of bits and what i call knuckles (funky joined pieces that were easier to just cut out… I'd like to find a project for these since I dont have the heart to chuck it.)

The more I think about it, the more I realized that working with reclaimed stuff is a lot of work and not the most efficient use of time… But on the other hand, the material is saved from the dump. In time, we will all be working with reclaimed material so I figure it's good to get an early start, especially while the pickings are good.
 

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#6 ·
When you are onto something really good

OK this is something everybody into recycling should know.

Some really brilliant tips.

Attached to my Working with recycled timber blogs are excellent tips fellow LJs have taken the time to pass on, and they directly add additional knowledge to the subject matter I was covering.

I personally think they are very worthwhile and are essential contributions to the WW knowledge bank,

It provides the two heads are better than one (or in some cases three) for situations.

So along with me recognising their valuable contributions I also recommend you to go back and have a read directly from their own words and their documented experience.

Here is me thinking I am the only person poor enough to go scrounging for recycled materials !

a P.S.

Remember the frame I showed that had some felt strips stapled on it?... well my wife saw them it and made a set of inner soles for her gum boots with them, talk about quick!

Keep watching
 
#7 ·
Thats a great tidbit about your wife reusing the felt strips. I spend about 1 hour each day foraging for wood that is tossed by local businesses around where I work. I have SO much hardware now, I dont know what to do with it. Sometimes, the wood is crap but the hardware is fantastic. I have some huge bolts I picked up from a shipping crate that wasnt going anywhere (HUGE), but these things must cost 5 bucks apiece! I also got about 20 of those hose clamps with the screw. Im sure i'll find something to use them on. Great blog series btw.
 
#8 ·
Recovering / repairing or breaking down wood

There are lots of furniture items about which end up in a street clean up.

I saw a blue painted set of drawers which appeared on vacant block near me some time ago, I didn't take much notice of it but just watched it.

It didn't move for a couple of days so I went over and checked it out, when I opened a drawer I saw it was assembled using blind dovetails in it so I decided to bring it home.

Once I got it back home and had a good look at it was worthwhile sanding the paint off.

So I set to work,

About 2 hours later this was the result.

Cabinetry Furniture Dresser Chest of drawers Drawer


There were a few handles missing but it scrubbed up reasonably well
I don't know what the timber is but its possibly a pine specis.

Wood Cabinetry Floor Hardwood Flooring


This is a shot of the dovetails I saw that encouraged me to recover it and see what it was

Table Wood Audio equipment Flooring Hardwood


I missed taking a good before picture mainly because it didn't think it was something to report on.
But I left the back panel in its original found condition, the photo is a bit dark, but you may possibly see how it was.

Drawer Wood Table Rectangle Desk


Here is a shot of the top.

All that was required to return it to the condition seen in the photos was a 1/2 sheet sander, a screwdriver to remove the handles and a scraper to clean out the profile sections.

A rare effort I would think some paint jobs are just too much work.

This was what I would call a gem of a find, and doesn't happen often, as most furniture that gets disposed off is usually only Particle board based or MDF.

So there you go sometimes there is not a lot of work required to recover wood back to its original condition but I guess its the exception in this case.

Next I will show the process in breaking down some timber shelving we removed from a house reno and the steps I took to return the timber back to useable stock.
 

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#9 ·
Recovering / repairing or breaking down wood

There are lots of furniture items about which end up in a street clean up.

I saw a blue painted set of drawers which appeared on vacant block near me some time ago, I didn't take much notice of it but just watched it.

It didn't move for a couple of days so I went over and checked it out, when I opened a drawer I saw it was assembled using blind dovetails in it so I decided to bring it home.

Once I got it back home and had a good look at it was worthwhile sanding the paint off.

So I set to work,

About 2 hours later this was the result.

Cabinetry Furniture Dresser Chest of drawers Drawer


There were a few handles missing but it scrubbed up reasonably well
I don't know what the timber is but its possibly a pine specis.

Wood Cabinetry Floor Hardwood Flooring


This is a shot of the dovetails I saw that encouraged me to recover it and see what it was

Table Wood Audio equipment Flooring Hardwood


I missed taking a good before picture mainly because it didn't think it was something to report on.
But I left the back panel in its original found condition, the photo is a bit dark, but you may possibly see how it was.

Drawer Wood Table Rectangle Desk


Here is a shot of the top.

All that was required to return it to the condition seen in the photos was a 1/2 sheet sander, a screwdriver to remove the handles and a scraper to clean out the profile sections.

A rare effort I would think some paint jobs are just too much work.

This was what I would call a gem of a find, and doesn't happen often, as most furniture that gets disposed off is usually only Particle board based or MDF.

So there you go sometimes there is not a lot of work required to recover wood back to its original condition but I guess its the exception in this case.

Next I will show the process in breaking down some timber shelving we removed from a house reno and the steps I took to return the timber back to useable stock.
Nice save
 

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#11 ·
Some Recycled furniture Timber and Perils of Foreign Objects

In my last Blog I closed with a comment I was doing a refurbishment and had recovered some timber for reuse.

So lets look at the results that can be obtained.

Background.

It was a pine cabinet which had been stained with a dark finish.

The timber I worked with in this first section had already been dressed.
So reducing stock below standard thickness and then attempting to use it in conjunction with other projects needs to be considered, as it may well end up being more problems than its worth, however if its backing or base items it may go unnoticed.

This is the Pine Stock I worked with

I didn't take a before shot so you will have to imagine the timber with a stain on it similar these in this image.
Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Tints and shades


A couple of runs through the drum sander and the follow results were achieved.
Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Hardwood


The stained surface can be almost sanded away completely
Wood Table Rectangle Flooring Wood stain


Dings, they are to be expected in recycle timber, and its best to live with them as complete removal may waste your time an the material.
Recycling timber this thin definitely relegates it to the back or an out of sight area on a project for its 2nd life.

Large size Pine stock

This is a combined before and after shot, of two large pieces, over 32mm sanded with 80 Grit in the drum sander.

So with the increased thickness you now have a more practical ability to reuse the timber and maintain a standard thickness.

The pieces were the bottom of a Jet Ski crate!

Wood Wood stain Plank Table Hardwood


Some Oregon I sanded and the results.

These were over 22mm so had the thickness for a reuse in life
They were the cross braces in the crate I showed in a previous blog with the felt on them

After removing the nail plates and checking they looked OK to go.
Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain


Into the Drum sander they they went and were sanded to 80 G.
Wood Purple Rectangle Wood stain Plank


Finding Foreign Objects (FO) by eye.

Now if you do not have any electronic means to detect FOs don't be too put off, a visual check can be just as good, then followed up by a sanding, and if the unfortunate happens better to damage a belt than a knife.

Here is the suspect item and there appears to a entry point but nothing visible.
Wood Tree Hardwood Font Wood stain


After a couple of sanding passes its definitely a nail.
This is the A Side
Wood Sleeve Pattern Hardwood Fashion accessory


This is the B side
Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


This is a small staple/brad or the likes, and will not do permanent damage to the drum sander belt, or if any damage its minimal, otherwise its a change out no real big deal.

Better to find it sanding than thicknessing.

Enjoy
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Some Recycled furniture Timber and Perils of Foreign Objects

In my last Blog I closed with a comment I was doing a refurbishment and had recovered some timber for reuse.

So lets look at the results that can be obtained.

Background.

It was a pine cabinet which had been stained with a dark finish.

The timber I worked with in this first section had already been dressed.
So reducing stock below standard thickness and then attempting to use it in conjunction with other projects needs to be considered, as it may well end up being more problems than its worth, however if its backing or base items it may go unnoticed.

This is the Pine Stock I worked with

I didn't take a before shot so you will have to imagine the timber with a stain on it similar these in this image.
Wood Gas Hardwood Wood stain Tints and shades


A couple of runs through the drum sander and the follow results were achieved.
Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Hardwood


The stained surface can be almost sanded away completely
Wood Table Rectangle Flooring Wood stain


Dings, they are to be expected in recycle timber, and its best to live with them as complete removal may waste your time an the material.
Recycling timber this thin definitely relegates it to the back or an out of sight area on a project for its 2nd life.

Large size Pine stock

This is a combined before and after shot, of two large pieces, over 32mm sanded with 80 Grit in the drum sander.

So with the increased thickness you now have a more practical ability to reuse the timber and maintain a standard thickness.

The pieces were the bottom of a Jet Ski crate!

Wood Wood stain Plank Table Hardwood


Some Oregon I sanded and the results.

These were over 22mm so had the thickness for a reuse in life
They were the cross braces in the crate I showed in a previous blog with the felt on them

After removing the nail plates and checking they looked OK to go.
Brown Wood Rectangle Flooring Wood stain


Into the Drum sander they they went and were sanded to 80 G.
Wood Purple Rectangle Wood stain Plank


Finding Foreign Objects (FO) by eye.

Now if you do not have any electronic means to detect FOs don't be too put off, a visual check can be just as good, then followed up by a sanding, and if the unfortunate happens better to damage a belt than a knife.

Here is the suspect item and there appears to a entry point but nothing visible.
Wood Tree Hardwood Font Wood stain


After a couple of sanding passes its definitely a nail.
This is the A Side
Wood Sleeve Pattern Hardwood Fashion accessory


This is the B side
Wood Rectangle Flooring Hardwood Wood stain


This is a small staple/brad or the likes, and will not do permanent damage to the drum sander belt, or if any damage its minimal, otherwise its a change out no real big deal.

Better to find it sanding than thicknessing.

Enjoy
So how did you get it out? Did you get it out?

I have a bunch of boards I got from a pallet of plywood from China, and its Rubber wood. Really pretty stuff, but its full of crappy chinese nails that the heads kept popping off when breaking it down.

I need a good method for removing these. The wood is hard, so they dont just come out by pulling.
 

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#14 ·
TJB Woodie and Jessie Picture frame

I made this picture frame up after number four Son Toby and his lovely lady Ashlee visited over the weekend.

Wood Gas Art Machine Rectangle


Background:

Outfits:

We all went to a birthday party for number one son Adam's son Rocky, it was a cowboy theme so that explains the outfits in the post.
Rectangle Wood Communication Device Gadget Technology


Brown Wood Rectangle Art Smile


The Frame:

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


The picture frame was inspired by Toby's interest in "rustic" use of recycled timber.

The timber:

The timber used is Oregon/Douglas Fir and was in its previous life a rail from a packing crate.

The process:

Step 1. The timber was checked for FOs and initially thicknessed on the table saw then finally the jointer after that back to the table saw to be sawn in half.
Step 2. the edges were biscuit jointed and glued with Titebond III and clamped together.
Step 3. A full size template of the picture sizes and Final frame was constructed. The templates used to lay out the photos and to route out the profiles.
Wood Electrical wiring Cable Gas Flooring


Wood Gas Audio equipment Hardwood Machine


Step 4. The picture frame outlines were marked on the timber and the waste drilled out on four corners and then using a jig saw the bulk material removed.
Step 5 The frame was attached to the template and the final front size of the frame routed out.
This was done using a portable router fitted with a suitable sized bush and a straight spiral 1/2" router bit.

Step 6. Then using a rebate bit and fitted with a suitable sized bearing routed the recess for the picture frame Perspex window, picture and backing board.

I chose to use the shaper freehand for the next steps but a hand held router is still OK.
Wood Flooring Gas Hardwood Wood stain


Step 7. Using a bearing mounted 45 deg router bit ran a chamfer on the inside of each frame window.
Food Rectangle Ingredient Wood Cuisine


Then using the same bit at a lowered position chamfered the top and two sides.
Step 8 Cut two rear support and tapered the base of the frame and one side of each support at 10 deg.
Wood Wood stain Gas Hardwood Flooring


Step 9. Sanded everything with a rotary flap sectored sanding drum.
Wood Wheel Flooring Tire Floor


Step 10. Attached the supports filled a couple of nail holes and applied a coat of sanding sealer
 

Attachments

#15 ·
TJB Woodie and Jessie Picture frame

I made this picture frame up after number four Son Toby and his lovely lady Ashlee visited over the weekend.

Wood Gas Art Machine Rectangle


Background:

Outfits:

We all went to a birthday party for number one son Adam's son Rocky, it was a cowboy theme so that explains the outfits in the post.
Rectangle Wood Communication Device Gadget Technology


Brown Wood Rectangle Art Smile


The Frame:

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Flooring


The picture frame was inspired by Toby's interest in "rustic" use of recycled timber.

The timber:

The timber used is Oregon/Douglas Fir and was in its previous life a rail from a packing crate.

The process:

Step 1. The timber was checked for FOs and initially thicknessed on the table saw then finally the jointer after that back to the table saw to be sawn in half.
Step 2. the edges were biscuit jointed and glued with Titebond III and clamped together.
Step 3. A full size template of the picture sizes and Final frame was constructed. The templates used to lay out the photos and to route out the profiles.
Wood Electrical wiring Cable Gas Flooring


Wood Gas Audio equipment Hardwood Machine


Step 4. The picture frame outlines were marked on the timber and the waste drilled out on four corners and then using a jig saw the bulk material removed.
Step 5 The frame was attached to the template and the final front size of the frame routed out.
This was done using a portable router fitted with a suitable sized bush and a straight spiral 1/2" router bit.

Step 6. Then using a rebate bit and fitted with a suitable sized bearing routed the recess for the picture frame Perspex window, picture and backing board.

I chose to use the shaper freehand for the next steps but a hand held router is still OK.
Wood Flooring Gas Hardwood Wood stain


Step 7. Using a bearing mounted 45 deg router bit ran a chamfer on the inside of each frame window.
Food Rectangle Ingredient Wood Cuisine


Then using the same bit at a lowered position chamfered the top and two sides.
Step 8 Cut two rear support and tapered the base of the frame and one side of each support at 10 deg.
Wood Wood stain Gas Hardwood Flooring


Step 9. Sanded everything with a rotary flap sectored sanding drum.
Wood Wheel Flooring Tire Floor


Step 10. Attached the supports filled a couple of nail holes and applied a coat of sanding sealer
That is FANTASTIC! What a great idea. I mean, a picture frame, yeah, sure, no big deal right? WRONG! This is totally awesome. I really enjoy how you broke down the process into steps with pictures.

The frame itself has a nifty design too. Very cool.
 

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#16 ·
20 Stave Drum. Stock preparation

I have enough timber to reattempt making staves, in particular a 20 stave drum is the project.

My last attempt to make staves gave me so much grief at the glue up stage I almost binned everything mid process in sheer frustration.
It was only after walking away from the activity temporarily I found the confidence to try again.
I eventually had a encouraging limited success with the activity.

Then it was only just recently, after reading Julian's Router Jig for Making Round Boxes a couple of times it encouraged me to try again. I don't intend to round the drum at this stage maybe next time!

I made the staves from bulk stock which was resawn on the table saw to suit the project.

Wood Wood stain Natural material Plank Hardwood


The staves were flattened and squared on the Jointer and trued on the table saw as I cut an 9 Deg angle on each side. Being 360 degrees divided by the 20 staves then divided by 2 to determine the cut angle for each side of the stave.

Because I didn't want the stock jamming under the right tilted blade I set the rip fence on the left of the blade and recalibrated the parallelism of the fence and checked everything was going to work as required.

Automotive tire Wood Chair Gas Tints and shades


Using feather boards and downward pressure all the staves were cut successfully

The staves are all 450mm in length and are 89mm wide at the outside edge with 15mm being the thickness.

With all the stock laid out against a straight edge and square a dry fit up check confirmed all was good to go for the glue up.
 

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#17 ·
20 Stave Drum. Stock preparation

I have enough timber to reattempt making staves, in particular a 20 stave drum is the project.

My last attempt to make staves gave me so much grief at the glue up stage I almost binned everything mid process in sheer frustration.
It was only after walking away from the activity temporarily I found the confidence to try again.
I eventually had a encouraging limited success with the activity.

Then it was only just recently, after reading Julian's Router Jig for Making Round Boxes a couple of times it encouraged me to try again. I don't intend to round the drum at this stage maybe next time!

I made the staves from bulk stock which was resawn on the table saw to suit the project.

Wood Wood stain Natural material Plank Hardwood


The staves were flattened and squared on the Jointer and trued on the table saw as I cut an 9 Deg angle on each side. Being 360 degrees divided by the 20 staves then divided by 2 to determine the cut angle for each side of the stave.

Because I didn't want the stock jamming under the right tilted blade I set the rip fence on the left of the blade and recalibrated the parallelism of the fence and checked everything was going to work as required.

Automotive tire Wood Chair Gas Tints and shades


Using feather boards and downward pressure all the staves were cut successfully

The staves are all 450mm in length and are 89mm wide at the outside edge with 15mm being the thickness.

With all the stock laid out against a straight edge and square a dry fit up check confirmed all was good to go for the glue up.
Interesting
 

Attachments

#18 ·
20 Stave Drum. Stave glue up

OK after laying out the staves and using painters tape to hold everything together I applied a bead of Tite Bond III glue to each stave edge and attempted to roll them up together to form the cylinder, well it did not work well staves fell off the tape so I had to apply painters tape on the inside to hold them together as I rolled them into the cylinder.

The tape started breaking away and then started being a nuisance, so I quickly applied a run of electrical tape all around the outside to hold everything together firmly, this worked well and I would do it again for the next time.

Its a good thing the glue has a reasonable work time as it allowed me to align everything and reglue some sections

At this stage I was at a loss as to how to apply a reasonable amount of pressure other than that of the electrical tape.

So I decided to use my shock cord and simply pull it tight and knot it off.

With a few diagonal checks for concentricity and then removing all the painters tape I left everything to set overnight.

Natural material Gas Composite material Wood Wood stain


The next morning I found the glue up had gone well but found the cylinder was very prone to cracking the joints in its bare state if mishandled.

So the next stage was to add strengthening ribs/sections to each end.
I cut a few sections to determine the correct size and dry fitted them in, The appeared to fit up OK so I cut the remaining 15 or so.

It was when I fitted them all in I found I needed to trim a few with about 2mm to compensate for some creepage.

After that each fitted in and were snug enough that even at dry fit up they did not fall out when I picked up the cylinder.

Happy with this I dismantled the sections glued them up and refitted them.

It was at this stage I used a ratchet strap the apply an even pressure around the cylinder, checked the diameters again and left them for the glue to set.

Wood Fluid Wood stain Composite material Natural material


I didn't take a photo with the ratchet strap fitted but I think you can get the picture.

Once the glue was dry I sanded everything from 40 Grit up to 120 grit.

A note:

I made a fairly silly mistake not sanding each stave before assembly as I made it hard for myself doing it with the drum assembled as it was very easy to round over the edge if not very careful. (A lesson learned for next time) Sand everything prior to glue up!
 

Attachments

#19 ·
20 Stave Drum. Stave glue up

OK after laying out the staves and using painters tape to hold everything together I applied a bead of Tite Bond III glue to each stave edge and attempted to roll them up together to form the cylinder, well it did not work well staves fell off the tape so I had to apply painters tape on the inside to hold them together as I rolled them into the cylinder.

The tape started breaking away and then started being a nuisance, so I quickly applied a run of electrical tape all around the outside to hold everything together firmly, this worked well and I would do it again for the next time.

Its a good thing the glue has a reasonable work time as it allowed me to align everything and reglue some sections

At this stage I was at a loss as to how to apply a reasonable amount of pressure other than that of the electrical tape.

So I decided to use my shock cord and simply pull it tight and knot it off.

With a few diagonal checks for concentricity and then removing all the painters tape I left everything to set overnight.

Natural material Gas Composite material Wood Wood stain


The next morning I found the glue up had gone well but found the cylinder was very prone to cracking the joints in its bare state if mishandled.

So the next stage was to add strengthening ribs/sections to each end.
I cut a few sections to determine the correct size and dry fitted them in, The appeared to fit up OK so I cut the remaining 15 or so.

It was when I fitted them all in I found I needed to trim a few with about 2mm to compensate for some creepage.

After that each fitted in and were snug enough that even at dry fit up they did not fall out when I picked up the cylinder.

Happy with this I dismantled the sections glued them up and refitted them.

It was at this stage I used a ratchet strap the apply an even pressure around the cylinder, checked the diameters again and left them for the glue to set.

Wood Fluid Wood stain Composite material Natural material


I didn't take a photo with the ratchet strap fitted but I think you can get the picture.

Once the glue was dry I sanded everything from 40 Grit up to 120 grit.

A note:

I made a fairly silly mistake not sanding each stave before assembly as I made it hard for myself doing it with the drum assembled as it was very easy to round over the edge if not very careful. (A lesson learned for next time) Sand everything prior to glue up!
Ahh, more interesting
 

Attachments

#20 ·
20 Stave Drum. Routing the Staves

The drum cylinder section is now complete and reasonably ridged enough to handle.

Now all I need is to decide what pattern to apply to the staves.
Initially I was going to use my 3D router Carver but the narrow staves discounted it fairly early.

I then thought about putting circles on each stave, but decided against it as being plain and boring after making the pattern and doing a test run and seeing the result.

So I decided to go with an duplicated elongated pattern.

I set about modifying the pattern template, actually I made about three in the process as I developed the final "design", If you could call it that.

Some that fell by the wayside!

Wood Rectangle Road surface Asphalt Font


The final Pattern is a composite of the first two cut up as the positioning was too close to the edges, and by this stage I was getting a little annoyed with myself in being not able to make a simple pattern that complemented the drum!

Here is the final Pattern template in use.

Wood Gas Wood stain Automotive exterior Hardwood


The reason its looking like a Frankenstein creation is because that's exactly what it is the original design needed to be moved toward the center of the drum for aspect reasons so I cut it up reversed it and added a section in the middle to set the position, the end circles were the first attempt, plus I was running out of time and wood.

How it was made, apart from the obvious,

Using a forstner bit three 40mm holes were cut with the pedestal drill with the center hole overlapping.
The router table and a straight bit was then used to mill the remaining material out from circle to circle to make parallel edges joining edges to the outer circles.

Two strengthening ribs were added to the sides and little sanding to remove burrs etc and it was finished.

What's the LT and RT all about? Well even after cutting everything precisely as possible the symmetry was still out a few mm horizontally if the template was inverted.
I fitted the pattern template with 'wings" so I could clamp it using spring clamps in position quickly and efficiently and not have any movement.

A hand router was then set up with 20mm bush and 15mm core bit ready to go.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Tread Automotive exterior


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Gas


A test run to determine a suitable depth was done then on with the template and route away.

This is the finished product.

Rectangle Wood Gas Composite material Automotive tire
 

Attachments

#21 ·
20 Stave Drum. Routing the Staves

The drum cylinder section is now complete and reasonably ridged enough to handle.

Now all I need is to decide what pattern to apply to the staves.
Initially I was going to use my 3D router Carver but the narrow staves discounted it fairly early.

I then thought about putting circles on each stave, but decided against it as being plain and boring after making the pattern and doing a test run and seeing the result.

So I decided to go with an duplicated elongated pattern.

I set about modifying the pattern template, actually I made about three in the process as I developed the final "design", If you could call it that.

Some that fell by the wayside!

Wood Rectangle Road surface Asphalt Font


The final Pattern is a composite of the first two cut up as the positioning was too close to the edges, and by this stage I was getting a little annoyed with myself in being not able to make a simple pattern that complemented the drum!

Here is the final Pattern template in use.

Wood Gas Wood stain Automotive exterior Hardwood


The reason its looking like a Frankenstein creation is because that's exactly what it is the original design needed to be moved toward the center of the drum for aspect reasons so I cut it up reversed it and added a section in the middle to set the position, the end circles were the first attempt, plus I was running out of time and wood.

How it was made, apart from the obvious,

Using a forstner bit three 40mm holes were cut with the pedestal drill with the center hole overlapping.
The router table and a straight bit was then used to mill the remaining material out from circle to circle to make parallel edges joining edges to the outer circles.

Two strengthening ribs were added to the sides and little sanding to remove burrs etc and it was finished.

What's the LT and RT all about? Well even after cutting everything precisely as possible the symmetry was still out a few mm horizontally if the template was inverted.
I fitted the pattern template with 'wings" so I could clamp it using spring clamps in position quickly and efficiently and not have any movement.

A hand router was then set up with 20mm bush and 15mm core bit ready to go.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Tread Automotive exterior


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Gas


A test run to determine a suitable depth was done then on with the template and route away.

This is the finished product.

Rectangle Wood Gas Composite material Automotive tire
I like it
 

Attachments

#23 ·
Attaching the base, base trim and a reinforcing ring

The drum project is progressing well.

The base was cut from a piece of 15mm ply and attached with a "few" screws and glue.

I sat the drum on the ply traced a line around the outside and cut the profile out on the bandsaw then ran a straight bearing mounted router bit around the edge to cut it back parallel and smooth

Furniture Natural material Wood Table Tree


I had some concerns about the segments at the top breaking off if somebody stood on the drum so I made a reinforcing ring to support them all.

Barrel Waste container Wood Gas Road surface


I had to make the ring in two pieces as the ply was smaller than the diameter.
I attached it inside with a "few " more screws.

Brown Wood Building House Floor


The drum is now almost "bullet proof" in fact I may add wheels and use it as a stock bin.

Next was the attachment of the base trim, this was a fiddly job as I custom measured and cut each piece to match.

Initially I cut about three segments at once but found there were too many slight errors accumulating and making The base trim look bad.

The trim was made on the shaper and sliced it off a larger piece of stock.

I used painters tape to hold them in place as I worked around the drum, then attached a ratchet strap to apply some pressure while the glue set.

As I was doing the trim I noticed lots of nail holes, these I was going to leave as a feature but decided to plug them with bamboo skewers, (just happened to find them in Aurora's kitchen again!)

Automotive tire Wood Plant Fender Tints and shades


Wood Composite material Gas Natural material Hardwood


I forgot to add a completed base trim photo

Handwriting Wood Gas Font Circle
 

Attachments

#24 ·
Attaching the base, base trim and a reinforcing ring

The drum project is progressing well.

The base was cut from a piece of 15mm ply and attached with a "few" screws and glue.

I sat the drum on the ply traced a line around the outside and cut the profile out on the bandsaw then ran a straight bearing mounted router bit around the edge to cut it back parallel and smooth

Furniture Natural material Wood Table Tree


I had some concerns about the segments at the top breaking off if somebody stood on the drum so I made a reinforcing ring to support them all.

Barrel Waste container Wood Gas Road surface


I had to make the ring in two pieces as the ply was smaller than the diameter.
I attached it inside with a "few " more screws.

Brown Wood Building House Floor


The drum is now almost "bullet proof" in fact I may add wheels and use it as a stock bin.

Next was the attachment of the base trim, this was a fiddly job as I custom measured and cut each piece to match.

Initially I cut about three segments at once but found there were too many slight errors accumulating and making The base trim look bad.

The trim was made on the shaper and sliced it off a larger piece of stock.

I used painters tape to hold them in place as I worked around the drum, then attached a ratchet strap to apply some pressure while the glue set.

As I was doing the trim I noticed lots of nail holes, these I was going to leave as a feature but decided to plug them with bamboo skewers, (just happened to find them in Aurora's kitchen again!)

Automotive tire Wood Plant Fender Tints and shades


Wood Composite material Gas Natural material Hardwood


I forgot to add a completed base trim photo

Handwriting Wood Gas Font Circle
Very nice looking job.
Chuck
 

Attachments

#26 ·
Sometimes things do not go well

Yesterday I spent all day sawing up a couple of hardwood pallet slats.

I was trying to make a octagonal 20 deg slope sides tray.

I must have spent countless hours sawing up material to ensure I could do what I had imagined.

However when I thought I had the system down pat I had sections going off at different planes.

So I sawed everything up again and met with the same result.

I then Googled wood working stave work and found some formulas worthy of a Prince Phillip design award, regardless I tried them, my instinct told me It would not work, sure enough it didn't.

P.S. In defence of the posted formula's I have to admit t didn't fully understand the sine co sine explanation and the long string mathematical formula's, wood working doesn't need to be that complex Moses managed it.

What could I be doing wrong I thought it cannot be that hard? so I tried and tried and failed and failed.

Just as I was about to give up I remembered I had made a vase holder for my wife some time ago and it worked OK and without any complicated formulas,,......it then dawned on me I was cutting the material in the incorrect plane, I had it flat on the drop saw table instead of vertical.

Doh What a dummy!!

To confirm that the errors were solely user related I did a test cut on some scrap pieces to confirm.

I cut a few pieces and mated them up all was good!

So I set to work in Ernst making more material cutting it to length making handles designing in a way of stepping down from the high ends with the handles to the sides.

Routing in the handles, sanding everything up ready to assemble.

Now trying to clamp together a frame with a 20 deg slope was not going to be easy.

So I decided to use "0" biscuits as splines.

The next dilemma was how to cut a biscuit slot into material with a 22.5 degree angle and 10 deg slope on each half of the ends.

I made a jig to do it and it did it well. I will post the Jig as a blog later.

Wood Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Tool


Upon doing a test cut found that the stock I had prepared was too narrow for the biscuits and they protruded out the top and bottom, not good.

So I decided I would off set them and trim off the exposed section of the biscuit.
Result was almost acceptable but far from professional

I dry assembled everything and checked the the angles they looked bad, so I dismantled everything and sanded the edge of the miss match, hoping to correct the problem, re assembled everything and it looked worse,..... I had sanded the incorrect edge, so its pull everything down and redo the angle.
This time it was not as bad but still not acceptable.

Its go to the bin time I am thinking. ponder ponder.

Two days and with the use of fancy wood working tools I have managed to produce nothing but rubbish!

Any way I decide to do a glue up and see what the result is after all its only reclaimed timber.

I have go to learn how to do this I tell myself!

Ever tried to clamp a project with sloping sides, its almost impossible, any way I decided to clamp the sections down on to temporary bench and tried to clamp it, another fail

Wood Road surface Floor Flooring Automotive tire


Time to step back and have a beer it will still be there tomorrow!
 

Attachments

#27 ·
Sometimes things do not go well

Yesterday I spent all day sawing up a couple of hardwood pallet slats.

I was trying to make a octagonal 20 deg slope sides tray.

I must have spent countless hours sawing up material to ensure I could do what I had imagined.

However when I thought I had the system down pat I had sections going off at different planes.

So I sawed everything up again and met with the same result.

I then Googled wood working stave work and found some formulas worthy of a Prince Phillip design award, regardless I tried them, my instinct told me It would not work, sure enough it didn't.

P.S. In defence of the posted formula's I have to admit t didn't fully understand the sine co sine explanation and the long string mathematical formula's, wood working doesn't need to be that complex Moses managed it.

What could I be doing wrong I thought it cannot be that hard? so I tried and tried and failed and failed.

Just as I was about to give up I remembered I had made a vase holder for my wife some time ago and it worked OK and without any complicated formulas,,......it then dawned on me I was cutting the material in the incorrect plane, I had it flat on the drop saw table instead of vertical.

Doh What a dummy!!

To confirm that the errors were solely user related I did a test cut on some scrap pieces to confirm.

I cut a few pieces and mated them up all was good!

So I set to work in Ernst making more material cutting it to length making handles designing in a way of stepping down from the high ends with the handles to the sides.

Routing in the handles, sanding everything up ready to assemble.

Now trying to clamp together a frame with a 20 deg slope was not going to be easy.

So I decided to use "0" biscuits as splines.

The next dilemma was how to cut a biscuit slot into material with a 22.5 degree angle and 10 deg slope on each half of the ends.

I made a jig to do it and it did it well. I will post the Jig as a blog later.

Wood Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Tool


Upon doing a test cut found that the stock I had prepared was too narrow for the biscuits and they protruded out the top and bottom, not good.

So I decided I would off set them and trim off the exposed section of the biscuit.
Result was almost acceptable but far from professional

I dry assembled everything and checked the the angles they looked bad, so I dismantled everything and sanded the edge of the miss match, hoping to correct the problem, re assembled everything and it looked worse,..... I had sanded the incorrect edge, so its pull everything down and redo the angle.
This time it was not as bad but still not acceptable.

Its go to the bin time I am thinking. ponder ponder.

Two days and with the use of fancy wood working tools I have managed to produce nothing but rubbish!

Any way I decide to do a glue up and see what the result is after all its only reclaimed timber.

I have go to learn how to do this I tell myself!

Ever tried to clamp a project with sloping sides, its almost impossible, any way I decided to clamp the sections down on to temporary bench and tried to clamp it, another fail

Wood Road surface Floor Flooring Automotive tire


Time to step back and have a beer it will still be there tomorrow!
Very nice tray design Robert.
 

Attachments

#28 ·
sanding Activity and the results

I scavenged this piece of Huon Pine from a renovation some time ago, we were pulling out some old cupboards and doors.

Its the bottom panel from a door and if you check my Door what door? Blog you will see it there.

Rectangle Handwriting Tints and shades Road surface Concrete


Size was 620 mm x 450 mm x 10mm

There was about eight layers of paint/varnish on each side.

Road surface Asphalt Automotive lighting Gas Tints and shades


With a half sheet sander and 4 x sheets of 40 grit I set to work

The A side in progress

Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Paint Automotive design


The B Side I didn't take a in progress shot

The A side finished

Wood Flooring Rectangle Walking shoe Hardwood


The B side finished.
Don't mind the foot!

Wood Rectangle Grey Flooring Floor


Once I had the layers of paint off I ran it through the drum sander with 120grit, I was not game to let the drum sander loose on it first up due to the high risk of clogging up the belts..

Its going to be the base for my Sloped Side Tray if I ever figure out how to do the joints.

The reason I used it was the fact it was a single span piece of timber and will look very nice in the tray.

Spent another day on it trying to figure out the cutting of the joints.

So a break from a very frustrating project was well received.

A word of warning,

Sanding materials from old houses with paint on them may expose you to lead based paint dust as you work, so make sure you have and wear a dust mask and if you can, hook up the vac to the sander
 

Attachments

#29 ·
sanding Activity and the results

I scavenged this piece of Huon Pine from a renovation some time ago, we were pulling out some old cupboards and doors.

Its the bottom panel from a door and if you check my Door what door? Blog you will see it there.

Rectangle Handwriting Tints and shades Road surface Concrete


Size was 620 mm x 450 mm x 10mm

There was about eight layers of paint/varnish on each side.

Road surface Asphalt Automotive lighting Gas Tints and shades


With a half sheet sander and 4 x sheets of 40 grit I set to work

The A side in progress

Automotive lighting Hood Motor vehicle Paint Automotive design


The B Side I didn't take a in progress shot

The A side finished

Wood Flooring Rectangle Walking shoe Hardwood


The B side finished.
Don't mind the foot!

Wood Rectangle Grey Flooring Floor


Once I had the layers of paint off I ran it through the drum sander with 120grit, I was not game to let the drum sander loose on it first up due to the high risk of clogging up the belts..

Its going to be the base for my Sloped Side Tray if I ever figure out how to do the joints.

The reason I used it was the fact it was a single span piece of timber and will look very nice in the tray.

Spent another day on it trying to figure out the cutting of the joints.

So a break from a very frustrating project was well received.

A word of warning,

Sanding materials from old houses with paint on them may expose you to lead based paint dust as you work, so make sure you have and wear a dust mask and if you can, hook up the vac to the sander
Wonderful piece of reclaiming - I love the shot where you can see all the layers of paint/varnish from over the years.

Really gives you a sense of history about the stock.
 

Attachments

#31 ·
Hidden Feature !

Here is a series of shots I took when working the timber for my octagonal trays.

You may remember, (if you read it that is) of a previous blog highlighting the remaining metal from power driven nails linked with wire.

Well here are the photos showing the FOD exposed after I has sawn it up, and another showing embedded metal in other places except the nail holes.

Picture No 1.

Showing residual metal lying inside the nail hole and only visible after cutting with the saw.
Not sure if a metal detector would pick this up being so small but it is ferrous. The timber is about 3/4 inch or 19mm for comparison.

Wood Plant Grass Tints and shades Rectangle


Picture No 2.

Sorry about this one being blurred but it was my attempt to try and do a close up of Picture No 1

Brown Wood Grey Insect Wall


Picture No 3.

This is another piece of the same timber stock and yet another embedded shard of metal this time picked up visually after drum sanding, luckily the timber didn't get thicknessed or Jointed as I am sure it would have nicked the blades for sure.

Now I am not sure if its really that visible, so check the top right nail hole and then look at about 7 O'clock and there it is lying in the surface at the top right of the small rice grain shaped knot.
I am not saying this was the result of a nail but just the same detris you could do without.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Natural material Hardwood
 

Attachments

#32 ·
Hidden Feature !

Here is a series of shots I took when working the timber for my octagonal trays.

You may remember, (if you read it that is) of a previous blog highlighting the remaining metal from power driven nails linked with wire.

Well here are the photos showing the FOD exposed after I has sawn it up, and another showing embedded metal in other places except the nail holes.

Picture No 1.

Showing residual metal lying inside the nail hole and only visible after cutting with the saw.
Not sure if a metal detector would pick this up being so small but it is ferrous. The timber is about 3/4 inch or 19mm for comparison.

Wood Plant Grass Tints and shades Rectangle


Picture No 2.

Sorry about this one being blurred but it was my attempt to try and do a close up of Picture No 1

Brown Wood Grey Insect Wall


Picture No 3.

This is another piece of the same timber stock and yet another embedded shard of metal this time picked up visually after drum sanding, luckily the timber didn't get thicknessed or Jointed as I am sure it would have nicked the blades for sure.

Now I am not sure if its really that visible, so check the top right nail hole and then look at about 7 O'clock and there it is lying in the surface at the top right of the small rice grain shaped knot.
I am not saying this was the result of a nail but just the same detris you could do without.

Wood Rectangle Composite material Natural material Hardwood
That looks like really scary stuff. I understand that you could nick the blade, but what happens to the wood if you hit the metal? Or more specifically, what could happen to you?
 

Attachments

#36 ·
Concrete Cancer almost got me

After a day at Degoose's shop checking out his CNC and getting the new Spa powered up I returned home with yet another boot load of his fine timber.

I unloaded everything and stashed it all away and then went to go inside to relax and some refreshments, however as I stepped onto the first step of the stairs it almost broke in half!

What the !! I thought how could that be?

Wood Trunk Composite material Tints and shades Gas


Checking underneath I saw the reason metal corrosion had fractured the step beyond repair

Plant Wood Trunk Art Tints and shades


So it was back down stairs to my recycled wood stash.

Plant Wood Plank Wood stain Lumber


After rummaging through my recycled stock I found the perfect solution.
So it was back out with the wood working tools this time and set to work.

Rectangle Lighting Wood Building Architecture


I am not sure what the timber is but its certainly fixed the initial problem

Brown Wood Rectangle Tints and shades Artifact


End view

Road surface Wood Asphalt Trunk Tints and shades


I then did a further inspection and found sign of more pending problems.

Wood Composite material Building material Beam Ceiling


So it looks like I will be looking for quite a lot more of whatever this timber is.

How I produced the first step.

I found a suitable piece the exact width and about 1m long so a used my 1/2 sander and 40 Grit to clean it up
Cut a 5 deg cut on each end with the drop saw making it 910 mm long.

I then set up my drum sander with 60 grit and spent almost half an hour wrestling the monster it in and out of the sander.
Once I was happy with the finish I sanded the chamfer on the edges with the hand sander, and then gave it a generous coat of sanding sealer.
Set it in place and marked out the alignment holes.
Drilled and coach bolted it on from underneath.

Fixed in the short term !!
 

Attachments

#37 ·
Concrete Cancer almost got me

After a day at Degoose's shop checking out his CNC and getting the new Spa powered up I returned home with yet another boot load of his fine timber.

I unloaded everything and stashed it all away and then went to go inside to relax and some refreshments, however as I stepped onto the first step of the stairs it almost broke in half!

What the !! I thought how could that be?

Wood Trunk Composite material Tints and shades Gas


Checking underneath I saw the reason metal corrosion had fractured the step beyond repair

Plant Wood Trunk Art Tints and shades


So it was back down stairs to my recycled wood stash.

Plant Wood Plank Wood stain Lumber


After rummaging through my recycled stock I found the perfect solution.
So it was back out with the wood working tools this time and set to work.

Rectangle Lighting Wood Building Architecture


I am not sure what the timber is but its certainly fixed the initial problem

Brown Wood Rectangle Tints and shades Artifact


End view

Road surface Wood Asphalt Trunk Tints and shades


I then did a further inspection and found sign of more pending problems.

Wood Composite material Building material Beam Ceiling


So it looks like I will be looking for quite a lot more of whatever this timber is.

How I produced the first step.

I found a suitable piece the exact width and about 1m long so a used my 1/2 sander and 40 Grit to clean it up
Cut a 5 deg cut on each end with the drop saw making it 910 mm long.

I then set up my drum sander with 60 grit and spent almost half an hour wrestling the monster it in and out of the sander.
Once I was happy with the finish I sanded the chamfer on the edges with the hand sander, and then gave it a generous coat of sanding sealer.
Set it in place and marked out the alignment holes.
Drilled and coach bolted it on from underneath.

Fixed in the short term !!
Good thing it only half broke!
 

Attachments

#40 ·
When working on Step No 2 a sanding surprise

If you read my Concrete Cancer Blog you would have seen the ongoing work that I needed to do in step repair.

Well I found yet another piece of timber in my stash suitable for step No 2

It was in a reasonable condition, a couple of screw holes but nothing obvious FO wise, but will require a jointer and thicknesser run to remove some slight twist before installation.

So I began preparing it much the same as with Step No 1 before.
Again I am not sure what the timber is but it weight a "ton" and looked to be the same material from the end grain view.

So out with the cut off saw again and cut off the rubbish using a 5 deg slope.

Saw Wood Table Gas Machine tool


A trim to length on the other end has it ready for an initial clean up sanding

Bumper Wood Gas Asphalt Automotive tire


Now when I started sanding at 40 Grit I found two hidden treasures!
Wood Automotive tire Tire Grey Flooring


Apart from being metal just exactly what the were is unknown at this stage.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Grass


The removal of them now took priority on the stair work as I didn't want them as part of the build.

They were fairly substantial size so I guessed they were screws.

I initially exposed them with my plug cutter and tried to remove them but they would not budge.

Automotive tire Wood Table Road surface Asphalt


Trying to cut away the timber with my plug cutter was not good for it so I swapped it for a metal hole saw.
I needed to remove the pilot drill but as I had a dish recess it was no bother to control
Wood Sleeve Automotive tire Collar Button


I now needed to remove the timber from around the object so I used one of my small electrical screwdrivers to chisel it out
Blue Wood Writing implement Hardwood Nail


After removal of the waste it was clear that the FO was in fact some sort of screw.

Back into my electrical tool box and retrieve my stud extraction pliers. These pliers are specifically designed to remove Broken studs in electrical appliances, and have a rounded jaw at the front so I assumed they would work just as well with wood.
Grey Wood Automotive tire Gas Flooring


With quite a bit of persuasion I remove a screw from the timber, and it was huge, possibly a tek screw of which the head screwed off going into the timber!
You can see the jaws profile in this shot
Wood Chemical compound Fashion accessory Pattern Electric blue


I repeated the process on the second screw and again was successful in its removal.

I think I heard three cheers coming from my sander thicknesser and jointer on job completion!!

That's the sort of FO that would definitely total blades in one hit let alone just nick them!

Hand tool Wood Pliers Tool Gas


That was it for the day the rest is much the same routine as before so I will not bore you any more.

A good result and what could have been a very nasty example of FO in recycled timber.

I might look at buying a metal detector as the FO was definitely not visible at the initial inspection or when I sawed it up

Enjoy
 

Attachments

#41 ·
When working on Step No 2 a sanding surprise

If you read my Concrete Cancer Blog you would have seen the ongoing work that I needed to do in step repair.

Well I found yet another piece of timber in my stash suitable for step No 2

It was in a reasonable condition, a couple of screw holes but nothing obvious FO wise, but will require a jointer and thicknesser run to remove some slight twist before installation.

So I began preparing it much the same as with Step No 1 before.
Again I am not sure what the timber is but it weight a "ton" and looked to be the same material from the end grain view.

So out with the cut off saw again and cut off the rubbish using a 5 deg slope.

Saw Wood Table Gas Machine tool


A trim to length on the other end has it ready for an initial clean up sanding

Bumper Wood Gas Asphalt Automotive tire


Now when I started sanding at 40 Grit I found two hidden treasures!
Wood Automotive tire Tire Grey Flooring


Apart from being metal just exactly what the were is unknown at this stage.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Grass


The removal of them now took priority on the stair work as I didn't want them as part of the build.

They were fairly substantial size so I guessed they were screws.

I initially exposed them with my plug cutter and tried to remove them but they would not budge.

Automotive tire Wood Table Road surface Asphalt


Trying to cut away the timber with my plug cutter was not good for it so I swapped it for a metal hole saw.
I needed to remove the pilot drill but as I had a dish recess it was no bother to control
Wood Sleeve Automotive tire Collar Button


I now needed to remove the timber from around the object so I used one of my small electrical screwdrivers to chisel it out
Blue Wood Writing implement Hardwood Nail


After removal of the waste it was clear that the FO was in fact some sort of screw.

Back into my electrical tool box and retrieve my stud extraction pliers. These pliers are specifically designed to remove Broken studs in electrical appliances, and have a rounded jaw at the front so I assumed they would work just as well with wood.
Grey Wood Automotive tire Gas Flooring


With quite a bit of persuasion I remove a screw from the timber, and it was huge, possibly a tek screw of which the head screwed off going into the timber!
You can see the jaws profile in this shot
Wood Chemical compound Fashion accessory Pattern Electric blue


I repeated the process on the second screw and again was successful in its removal.

I think I heard three cheers coming from my sander thicknesser and jointer on job completion!!

That's the sort of FO that would definitely total blades in one hit let alone just nick them!

Hand tool Wood Pliers Tool Gas


That was it for the day the rest is much the same routine as before so I will not bore you any more.

A good result and what could have been a very nasty example of FO in recycled timber.

I might look at buying a metal detector as the FO was definitely not visible at the initial inspection or when I sawed it up

Enjoy
I make alot of things with pallets, I have sets of blades for the TS and planer that I deem "sacrificial" just for this reason. If I roached a nice ridge carbide blade by wacking a leftover lag bolt,,,,,,,,well,,, I would cry like a little girl.
 

Attachments

#45 ·
Step 2 complete

Well we now have two wooden steps the stairs they look a bit odd with a top and bottom step made from timber, but we will have to live with it for a while.

You saw the screw removal in the previous blog, so I will not bore you with and repeats.

The process

After removing the two broken screws I cut four plugs from the offcut and inserted them.
Reason being I wanted to use the timber with the damaged side facing up.

Did the sander routine again only I started with 32 Grit this time and finished with 60 Grit

Although I used the offcuts to cut the plugs from they didn't seem to match very well.

Sanding sealer on everything again, for a protective coat and will possibly 2 pack them for the final finish, the drying time is the problem.

You can bet if you paint them a unexpected visitor will arrive before its dry!!

Plugging the holes
!https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/mtex33q.jpg

Cutting off the excess

Wood Wood stain Gas Hardwood Outdoor bench


Sealed ready for fit up.

!
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Pedestal


Fitted in Place
Wood Building Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle


Well that's all from me for a few weeks I am off to Sydney to do electrical work for two weeks.
 

Attachments

#46 ·
Step 2 complete

Well we now have two wooden steps the stairs they look a bit odd with a top and bottom step made from timber, but we will have to live with it for a while.

You saw the screw removal in the previous blog, so I will not bore you with and repeats.

The process

After removing the two broken screws I cut four plugs from the offcut and inserted them.
Reason being I wanted to use the timber with the damaged side facing up.

Did the sander routine again only I started with 32 Grit this time and finished with 60 Grit

Although I used the offcuts to cut the plugs from they didn't seem to match very well.

Sanding sealer on everything again, for a protective coat and will possibly 2 pack them for the final finish, the drying time is the problem.

You can bet if you paint them a unexpected visitor will arrive before its dry!!

Plugging the holes
!https://storage.googleapis.com/aws-s3-lumberjocks-com/mtex33q.jpg

Cutting off the excess

Wood Wood stain Gas Hardwood Outdoor bench


Sealed ready for fit up.

!
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Pedestal


Fitted in Place
Wood Building Wood stain Hardwood Rectangle


Well that's all from me for a few weeks I am off to Sydney to do electrical work for two weeks.
Enoy your trip! I think it looks fantastic. Well done. Oh, and I found some FOs in my "rubberwood" board that I was planing. Some sort of wire screwed in somehow.

Brown Wood Insect Pest Arthropod


How the hell am i gonna get THIS out?!

Any ideas?
 

Attachments

#48 ·
Pallet Step stools

I submitted a repair procedure for Potato Crates for our local chip manufacturer.

The potato Crate is a skid with four sides on 1.2m x 1.2m x
1.3m high all hardwood construction with angle iron cover strips on the four corners.

It holds 900 kgs of potatoes as they are unloaded from road transport, then inbound for the cool room before processing, usually within 24hr of arrival they are in Chip Packet ready for distribution!

There is a shot of a couple at the Processing Plant

Brown Cabinetry Drawer Chest of drawers Wood


Being hardwood they are heavy suckers and to service them you need to get inside to remove bolts to release the cover strips to get to the slats, of which the damaged ones are at the bottom, typical.

The fork lift tines damage the bottom of the frame causing possible foreign objects in the chips

Wood Rectangle Stairs Automotive exterior Wood stain


Nothing like ingesting a piece of hardwood for roughage!!

Trying to get in and out of a 1.3m high pallet was a task for me so the Pallet Step Stools were designed

I paid my recycled timber a visit to source the materials.
What other materials could one use to make a Pallet Step Stool but recycled pallet bits!
Wood Composite material Lumber Grass Hardwood


As a result produced two of these, one for outside and one for inside the crate.
Wood Rectangle Grass Groundcover Outdoor furniture


Plant Table Outdoor bench Wood Outdoor furniture


Dimensions:

Height about 625mm
Top surface 400mm x 400mm
Leg and brace angles 10 Degrees
Intermediate step braces are 15 degrees.
Held together with Treated screws 32mm or 50mm dependent on the role.

Here they are primed and finished, the distressed look comes as a bonus too, no extra work there.
Wood Rectangle Plant Outdoor furniture Grass


Awaiting the results of the quote otherwise they will be re employed around the house assisting in painting and other tasks, like looking in the floor roof area for possums!!
 

Attachments

#49 ·
Pallet Step stools

I submitted a repair procedure for Potato Crates for our local chip manufacturer.

The potato Crate is a skid with four sides on 1.2m x 1.2m x
1.3m high all hardwood construction with angle iron cover strips on the four corners.

It holds 900 kgs of potatoes as they are unloaded from road transport, then inbound for the cool room before processing, usually within 24hr of arrival they are in Chip Packet ready for distribution!

There is a shot of a couple at the Processing Plant

Brown Cabinetry Drawer Chest of drawers Wood


Being hardwood they are heavy suckers and to service them you need to get inside to remove bolts to release the cover strips to get to the slats, of which the damaged ones are at the bottom, typical.

The fork lift tines damage the bottom of the frame causing possible foreign objects in the chips

Wood Rectangle Stairs Automotive exterior Wood stain


Nothing like ingesting a piece of hardwood for roughage!!

Trying to get in and out of a 1.3m high pallet was a task for me so the Pallet Step Stools were designed

I paid my recycled timber a visit to source the materials.
What other materials could one use to make a Pallet Step Stool but recycled pallet bits!
Wood Composite material Lumber Grass Hardwood


As a result produced two of these, one for outside and one for inside the crate.
Wood Rectangle Grass Groundcover Outdoor furniture


Plant Table Outdoor bench Wood Outdoor furniture


Dimensions:

Height about 625mm
Top surface 400mm x 400mm
Leg and brace angles 10 Degrees
Intermediate step braces are 15 degrees.
Held together with Treated screws 32mm or 50mm dependent on the role.

Here they are primed and finished, the distressed look comes as a bonus too, no extra work there.
Wood Rectangle Plant Outdoor furniture Grass


Awaiting the results of the quote otherwise they will be re employed around the house assisting in painting and other tasks, like looking in the floor roof area for possums!!
Very nice job.
Chuck
 

Attachments

#55 ·
Pallet Mower Shed

I was able to collect some metal pallets and conventional pallets from a business near by.

I spoke with the owner and he has pleased that somebody could, 1 Take them away, and 2. Make use of it all.

So after a few trips home I have it all in the yard, much to the annoyance of Aurora, best get it all de nailed stacked and put to use PDQ!

So I used an angle grinder to cut the front section out of two of the metal frames and use one to stack reclaimed timber in.

Wood Plant Wood stain Outdoor furniture Plank


The other I cut a side out of and used it to make the Mower Shed

First up I built the roof structure.

Plant Wood Gas Rectangle Tree


Wood Mesh Plant Outdoor furniture Table


Made the traditional Joints and assembled it onto the frame.

Wood Wood stain Plant Grass Tints and shades


Wood Wall Shade Tints and shades Beam


Then it was on with the Floor and sides, its great being able to roll the building around so assembly was easier!

Plant Rectangle Wood Natural material Wood stain

The floor was simply the pallet frame parts cut to length and fitted with a sheet of ply.

The walls were all rebated and screwed onto battens that I had fastened with screws to the metal banding

Plant Plant community Motor vehicle Wheel Wood


Plant Plant community Leaf Botany Wood


I can see the mowers getting evicted and some little people setting up in it for a tea party or such so I ground off all sharp protruding screws and any other sharp objects which may cause an injury.

A coat of River gum Green and it was positioned in the back of the garden.

Lots of timber gone and some clutter tidied up in the process.
 

Attachments

#56 ·
Pallet Mower Shed

I was able to collect some metal pallets and conventional pallets from a business near by.

I spoke with the owner and he has pleased that somebody could, 1 Take them away, and 2. Make use of it all.

So after a few trips home I have it all in the yard, much to the annoyance of Aurora, best get it all de nailed stacked and put to use PDQ!

So I used an angle grinder to cut the front section out of two of the metal frames and use one to stack reclaimed timber in.

Wood Plant Wood stain Outdoor furniture Plank


The other I cut a side out of and used it to make the Mower Shed

First up I built the roof structure.

Plant Wood Gas Rectangle Tree


Wood Mesh Plant Outdoor furniture Table


Made the traditional Joints and assembled it onto the frame.

Wood Wood stain Plant Grass Tints and shades


Wood Wall Shade Tints and shades Beam


Then it was on with the Floor and sides, its great being able to roll the building around so assembly was easier!

Plant Rectangle Wood Natural material Wood stain

The floor was simply the pallet frame parts cut to length and fitted with a sheet of ply.

The walls were all rebated and screwed onto battens that I had fastened with screws to the metal banding

Plant Plant community Motor vehicle Wheel Wood


Plant Plant community Leaf Botany Wood


I can see the mowers getting evicted and some little people setting up in it for a tea party or such so I ground off all sharp protruding screws and any other sharp objects which may cause an injury.

A coat of River gum Green and it was positioned in the back of the garden.

Lots of timber gone and some clutter tidied up in the process.
nice work rob thats one way to use it.
 

Attachments

#63 ·
Pine and Jarrah Boxes Preparing the stock

I was trying to tidy up again as our house is getting lots of clutter, mainly from me bringing home stray pieces of timber I find.

I thought I had better look very closely at my stash of recycled timbers.

I had heaps so I pulled out about 28 pieces of various lengths and dimensions

I ran them through on the table saw to true them up and then commenced thicknessing them.

I ended up with enough stock to make the boxes.





I then decided to add panels in the sides from more recycled bits I had.



These I simply split on the table saw and then thicknessed them





The two boxes I wanted to make were L 600mm H 400mm W 450mm

The idea was to sit in my ute behind the front seats so I could put tools and stuff in there and get them out easily later.

I didn't want a full width box as it would be OK but if I needed to use one of the back seats it was just a matter of removing one box and putting it on the tray.
 

Attachments

#64 ·
Pine and Jarrah Boxes Preparing the stock

I was trying to tidy up again as our house is getting lots of clutter, mainly from me bringing home stray pieces of timber I find.

I thought I had better look very closely at my stash of recycled timbers.

I had heaps so I pulled out about 28 pieces of various lengths and dimensions

I ran them through on the table saw to true them up and then commenced thicknessing them.

I ended up with enough stock to make the boxes.

Wood Outdoor bench Rectangle Bench Plank


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Outdoor furniture Plank


I then decided to add panels in the sides from more recycled bits I had.

Wood Brick Chair Hardwood Brickwork


These I simply split on the table saw and then thicknessed them

Road surface Wood Handwriting Brick Rectangle


Table Wood Rectangle Outdoor furniture Road surface


The two boxes I wanted to make were L 600mm H 400mm W 450mm

The idea was to sit in my ute behind the front seats so I could put tools and stuff in there and get them out easily later.

I didn't want a full width box as it would be OK but if I needed to use one of the back seats it was just a matter of removing one box and putting it on the tray.
nice wood.
 

Attachments

#66 ·
Pine and Jarrah Boxes making the frames

After preparing all the materials I then found that I had too many different widths and not enough of the one size, so I resawed the three 88mm width on their own to match the 9x I had at 83mm

Although I was as mean as possible with the thicknesser the final thickness ended up being 16mm so I am on the very minimum work thickness to be able to do panel work.

Joints were the next decision, after all there were only going to be work boxes so I didn't want to spend too much time on fancy joints.
I decided to do a big finger joint for simplicity.
So I divided the sides into three and cut them out.

I could have prepared them in a variety of ways, but chose to use the table saw and plunge cut them.
Wood Gesture Rectangle Wood stain Flooring


Then I set about cutting all the frames
Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Hardwood


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Composite material


Now for the critical activity, I set up the shaper and ran some test cuts to see if I could successfully work with the Rail and stile cutters with 16mm material.

I prototyped evry step which gave me concern and this is the test jig I used through the activity.
The initial finger joint is here, along with the screw holes for fixing later, being the three red circles.
The Tee is the rail and stile profile.

Don't be concerned about the four big holes just yet their purpose will be revealed later.
Wood Rectangle Hardwood Plank Wood stain


Wow that's cutting it fine there is only just enough material either side.

As you can see the material is at bare min and will be very fragile before glue up, but should work.
Brown Wood Floor Rectangle Wood stain


As the test runs were OK and at the bare minimum of material on both the matching Rail and stile profiles.
I then set to and profiled all the frames.
 

Attachments

#67 ·
Pine and Jarrah Boxes making the frames

After preparing all the materials I then found that I had too many different widths and not enough of the one size, so I resawed the three 88mm width on their own to match the 9x I had at 83mm

Although I was as mean as possible with the thicknesser the final thickness ended up being 16mm so I am on the very minimum work thickness to be able to do panel work.

Joints were the next decision, after all there were only going to be work boxes so I didn't want to spend too much time on fancy joints.
I decided to do a big finger joint for simplicity.
So I divided the sides into three and cut them out.

I could have prepared them in a variety of ways, but chose to use the table saw and plunge cut them.
Wood Gesture Rectangle Wood stain Flooring


Then I set about cutting all the frames
Wood Wood stain Flooring Floor Hardwood


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Hardwood Composite material


Now for the critical activity, I set up the shaper and ran some test cuts to see if I could successfully work with the Rail and stile cutters with 16mm material.

I prototyped evry step which gave me concern and this is the test jig I used through the activity.
The initial finger joint is here, along with the screw holes for fixing later, being the three red circles.
The Tee is the rail and stile profile.

Don't be concerned about the four big holes just yet their purpose will be revealed later.
Wood Rectangle Hardwood Plank Wood stain


Wow that's cutting it fine there is only just enough material either side.

As you can see the material is at bare min and will be very fragile before glue up, but should work.
Brown Wood Floor Rectangle Wood stain


As the test runs were OK and at the bare minimum of material on both the matching Rail and stile profiles.
I then set to and profiled all the frames.
nice work.
 

Attachments

#68 ·
Pine and jarrah Boxes Making the panels

Upon cutting all the profiles and dry assembling everything it was now time to fit the panel inserts.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Pattern Metal


From the split stock I prepared there was quite a bit of additional work required getting them all to 6mm thickness.

The thicknesser was initially used to get the material to a useable state, it worked well although the timber is very hard. Its previous life as a potato crate certainly seasoned it well, there was absolutely no distortion upon splitting the material.

I changed the cutters upon completion and then wheeled out the drum sander.
Starting at 60 grit I worked down to 120 grit to get a satisfactory surface finish and precise thickness.

One this was done it was simply a matter of cutting the panels to suit the openings,

The end panel inserts were ripped down to 130mm wide and about 345mm long.
Wood Wood stain Gas Hardwood Composite material


The side panel inserts because of the different size intermediate piece were wider and obviously longer.

For those budding detectives if you look at the top right panel there is a hole present, this is the panel shown in the previous initial ripping blog.
Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank Hardwood
 

Attachments

#69 ·
Pine and jarrah Boxes Making the panels

Upon cutting all the profiles and dry assembling everything it was now time to fit the panel inserts.
Wood Wood stain Hardwood Pattern Metal


From the split stock I prepared there was quite a bit of additional work required getting them all to 6mm thickness.

The thicknesser was initially used to get the material to a useable state, it worked well although the timber is very hard. Its previous life as a potato crate certainly seasoned it well, there was absolutely no distortion upon splitting the material.

I changed the cutters upon completion and then wheeled out the drum sander.
Starting at 60 grit I worked down to 120 grit to get a satisfactory surface finish and precise thickness.

One this was done it was simply a matter of cutting the panels to suit the openings,

The end panel inserts were ripped down to 130mm wide and about 345mm long.
Wood Wood stain Gas Hardwood Composite material


The side panel inserts because of the different size intermediate piece were wider and obviously longer.

For those budding detectives if you look at the top right panel there is a hole present, this is the panel shown in the previous initial ripping blog.
Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank Hardwood
Makin' progress…
 

Attachments

#70 ·
Pine and Jarrah Boxes pre assembly fit up

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Floor Outdoor furniture


Once the glue up of the panels had been allowed to dry overnight it was time to lay everything out and ensure every thing fits up OK.

Prior to assembly squareness was checked again and minor sawing to size undertaken.
The finger joints needed a slight tweeking to get everything on a level base line an correct fit up.

Once the final assembly checks were completed a final sanding was undertaken starting with 180 grit and finishing with 320 grit to remove glue residue and some minor splinter imperfections

Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood Lumber


At this stage there is no base on the boxes only the four sides were assembled.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Floor Flooring


All appeared A OK for fitment of the base.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Composite material


The base was a piece of HDF rebated into the bottom of the box.
Then it was off for complete assembly and glue up.
 

Attachments

#71 ·
Pine and Jarrah Boxes pre assembly fit up

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Floor Outdoor furniture


Once the glue up of the panels had been allowed to dry overnight it was time to lay everything out and ensure every thing fits up OK.

Prior to assembly squareness was checked again and minor sawing to size undertaken.
The finger joints needed a slight tweeking to get everything on a level base line an correct fit up.

Once the final assembly checks were completed a final sanding was undertaken starting with 180 grit and finishing with 320 grit to remove glue residue and some minor splinter imperfections

Wood Wood stain Plank Hardwood Lumber


At this stage there is no base on the boxes only the four sides were assembled.

Wood Rectangle Wood stain Floor Flooring


All appeared A OK for fitment of the base.

Wood Natural material Wood stain Hardwood Composite material


The base was a piece of HDF rebated into the bottom of the box.
Then it was off for complete assembly and glue up.
Looks wonderful
 

Attachments

#72 ·
Pine and Jarrah boxes finishing

Once the boxes were finally assembled the jig came out again this time the mystery four holes in jig and red circles were used to finish off the assembly.

The four holes are inbuilt carry handles and the red circles a predrill locators for the final screws.
I used countersunk climacoat 32mm screws, one in each finger joint.

Wood Handwriting Wood stain Hardwood Table


Window Building Wood Fence Wood stain


The carry handles were radiused with a round over bit in the trimmer and then a coat of shellac applied.

Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle Wood stain Natural material


Natural material Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank


OMG its back to cleaning up again !

Enjoy
 

Attachments

#73 ·
Pine and Jarrah boxes finishing

Once the boxes were finally assembled the jig came out again this time the mystery four holes in jig and red circles were used to finish off the assembly.

The four holes are inbuilt carry handles and the red circles a predrill locators for the final screws.
I used countersunk climacoat 32mm screws, one in each finger joint.

Wood Handwriting Wood stain Hardwood Table


Window Building Wood Fence Wood stain


The carry handles were radiused with a round over bit in the trimmer and then a coat of shellac applied.

Wood Outdoor furniture Rectangle Wood stain Natural material


Natural material Wood Rectangle Wood stain Plank


OMG its back to cleaning up again !

Enjoy
Nice, nice, nice.
Nothing like reclaimed material to bring character to a piece.
 

Attachments

#76 ·
PTLT making the frame

On Friday I spent most of the day doing joints, that's wooden joints not the plant variety!

I originally started with the intention to build the Classic Japanese style table featured in the Australian Woodsmith Magazine Issue 107.

I wanted to see if I was competent enough to make the joints so I prototyped the Front and End Stretcher in some recycled pine.

Here is a picture of the stretchers and the associated Magazine

Table Wood Font Hardwood Wood stain


The end stretcher is complete1:1 scale, where as the front one is a shotened in the middle version but the apron and tenon are 1:1 scale.

After I completed them I realised I didn't have any tool to do the mortises, so I digressed and tried some alternative joints using my Kreg Pocket hole Jig

It was the construction method from the magazine I used and modified it to suit making the Table legs.

Materials and Dimensions:

The timber is the frame of a pallet dimensions were originally about 1665mm x 40mm x 85mm.

I used the three pieces, 2 x for the sides and ends and 1 x for the feet.

The overall size of the frame is 650 mm long x 460 mm wide x 260 mm high.

Wood Automotive exterior Gas Hardwood Composite material


The ends and sides are fairly straight forward to prepare, I skimmed everything with my table saw and cut the ends at 90 Deg.

The feet as you can see in the pictures are 260 mm long with tapered legs
To obtain the taper, I used a 25 mm forster bit in a drill Press set against one side of the leg then divided the base in half at the end of the leg and drew a line back to the 25 mm hole.

Table Wood Hardwood Wood stain Chair


Assembly:

The assembly is simply butt jointed with pocket hole screws and glued with Titebond III

Table Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Rectangle


A check for squareness then left to dry overnight.

Ruler Wood Measuring instrument Tool Office ruler


Ruler Plant Office ruler Rectangle Wood


Stand by for the next part.

Editing Note:

I was experiencing computer lock ups last night when originally preparing this blog, and after adding the correct text and photos this morning I noticed 339 reads have occurred, so I must apologise if you re read it and are confused as to the original information, I found it was so frustrating I temporarily gave up on it.

So apologises if you were one of the 339 readers, you are not seeing things or going mad it has been edited!!!
 

Attachments

#77 ·
PTLT making the frame

On Friday I spent most of the day doing joints, that's wooden joints not the plant variety!

I originally started with the intention to build the Classic Japanese style table featured in the Australian Woodsmith Magazine Issue 107.

I wanted to see if I was competent enough to make the joints so I prototyped the Front and End Stretcher in some recycled pine.

Here is a picture of the stretchers and the associated Magazine

Table Wood Font Hardwood Wood stain


The end stretcher is complete1:1 scale, where as the front one is a shotened in the middle version but the apron and tenon are 1:1 scale.

After I completed them I realised I didn't have any tool to do the mortises, so I digressed and tried some alternative joints using my Kreg Pocket hole Jig

It was the construction method from the magazine I used and modified it to suit making the Table legs.

Materials and Dimensions:

The timber is the frame of a pallet dimensions were originally about 1665mm x 40mm x 85mm.

I used the three pieces, 2 x for the sides and ends and 1 x for the feet.

The overall size of the frame is 650 mm long x 460 mm wide x 260 mm high.

Wood Automotive exterior Gas Hardwood Composite material


The ends and sides are fairly straight forward to prepare, I skimmed everything with my table saw and cut the ends at 90 Deg.

The feet as you can see in the pictures are 260 mm long with tapered legs
To obtain the taper, I used a 25 mm forster bit in a drill Press set against one side of the leg then divided the base in half at the end of the leg and drew a line back to the 25 mm hole.

Table Wood Hardwood Wood stain Chair


Assembly:

The assembly is simply butt jointed with pocket hole screws and glued with Titebond III

Table Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Rectangle


A check for squareness then left to dry overnight.

Ruler Wood Measuring instrument Tool Office ruler


Ruler Plant Office ruler Rectangle Wood


Stand by for the next part.

Editing Note:

I was experiencing computer lock ups last night when originally preparing this blog, and after adding the correct text and photos this morning I noticed 339 reads have occurred, so I must apologise if you re read it and are confused as to the original information, I found it was so frustrating I temporarily gave up on it.

So apologises if you were one of the 339 readers, you are not seeing things or going mad it has been edited!!!
nice work.
 

Attachments

#79 ·
PTLT finishing and lining the frame

I sanded the frame and commenced fitting a base and then lining it.

I cut a piece of 6mm MDF for the base and covered it with textile,
Added a retaining strip on the bottom to hold it in place then made four sides from 4mm MDF to complete the lining job.

The lining including the base can be removed and replaced without the use of tools if required to be changed.

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Wood stain


Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood Automotive exterior


Plant Rectangle Wood Table Hardwood


You may notice a small gap on the ends, I didn't pay too much attention to it initially, silly move! as it made making the retaining trim complicated underneath. (The mismatch should have been rectified at the pre assembly stage)
Table Wood Wood stain Floor Plank


I thought of ripping the ends down to all a seamless fit, but as it was underneath I just opted to just have an off set at each end of the trim.
Chair Wood Rectangle Tints and shades Flooring


With that done I then commenced the preparation of the Flip Top Lid.

Table Furniture Wood Rectangle Desk


Some annoying showers called a halt to the work so I will have to continue another day !!
 

Attachments

#80 ·
PTLT finishing and lining the frame

I sanded the frame and commenced fitting a base and then lining it.

I cut a piece of 6mm MDF for the base and covered it with textile,
Added a retaining strip on the bottom to hold it in place then made four sides from 4mm MDF to complete the lining job.

The lining including the base can be removed and replaced without the use of tools if required to be changed.

Wood Rectangle Floor Flooring Wood stain


Rectangle Wood Wood stain Hardwood Automotive exterior


Plant Rectangle Wood Table Hardwood


You may notice a small gap on the ends, I didn't pay too much attention to it initially, silly move! as it made making the retaining trim complicated underneath. (The mismatch should have been rectified at the pre assembly stage)
Table Wood Wood stain Floor Plank


I thought of ripping the ends down to all a seamless fit, but as it was underneath I just opted to just have an off set at each end of the trim.
Chair Wood Rectangle Tints and shades Flooring


With that done I then commenced the preparation of the Flip Top Lid.

Table Furniture Wood Rectangle Desk


Some annoying showers called a halt to the work so I will have to continue another day !!
nice work.
 

Attachments

#83 ·
PTLT constructing the top

Nice day today, great weather and Mothers Day as well.

Managed to get some woodworking in without drawing the crabs noise wise on Sunday.

The construction of the table top required some lengths of 19mm thick pine to be purchased.

The quality left a lot to be desired and I think 30% ended up as scrap.

Any way I chose to build it using a reverse glue joint, spent quite a bit of time setting up a perfect match up.

The bit:

Liquid Fluid Drinkware Material property Gas


Its a bit suitable for widths from14mm to 40 mm, you obviously need a backing guide if the timber doesn't touch the bearing.

After a few test cuts and adjustment I had a acceptable joint.

Wood Rectangle Font Gas Automotive exterior


Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Gas


Road surface Wood Flooring Asphalt Tints and shades


So on with the construction.

To get a stable construction of the lid I decided to do two sections of 19mm timber.
I selected the best looking boards for the top face using reverse glue joints all round.
I then added the bottom sections to provide enough thickness to look acceptable.
These were butt joined and had screws inserted for a good joint,allof which can be removed later.

Wood Circuit component Gas Hardwood Electrical wiring


The base section has a wide board to provide a cut section for the hinges.
All have an overlap between the top and bottom for strength.

Wood Wood stain Gas Hardwood Plywood


If anybody asks why you have so many clamps, well here is an example of why

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Plywood


Opps must have forgotten to take a final picture showing the 16 clamps.

Next was a sand and rounding of the edges, started at 80G then moved on to 120G first up

Furniture Wood Natural material Chair Rectangle


Then a fill of the annoying holes

Table Wood Rectangle Bench Wood stain


That's was enough for today off for a Mothers day coffee with Aurora.
 

Attachments

#84 ·
PTLT constructing the top

Nice day today, great weather and Mothers Day as well.

Managed to get some woodworking in without drawing the crabs noise wise on Sunday.

The construction of the table top required some lengths of 19mm thick pine to be purchased.

The quality left a lot to be desired and I think 30% ended up as scrap.

Any way I chose to build it using a reverse glue joint, spent quite a bit of time setting up a perfect match up.

The bit:

Liquid Fluid Drinkware Material property Gas


Its a bit suitable for widths from14mm to 40 mm, you obviously need a backing guide if the timber doesn't touch the bearing.

After a few test cuts and adjustment I had a acceptable joint.

Wood Rectangle Font Gas Automotive exterior


Wood Rectangle Hardwood Wood stain Gas


Road surface Wood Flooring Asphalt Tints and shades


So on with the construction.

To get a stable construction of the lid I decided to do two sections of 19mm timber.
I selected the best looking boards for the top face using reverse glue joints all round.
I then added the bottom sections to provide enough thickness to look acceptable.
These were butt joined and had screws inserted for a good joint,allof which can be removed later.

Wood Circuit component Gas Hardwood Electrical wiring


The base section has a wide board to provide a cut section for the hinges.
All have an overlap between the top and bottom for strength.

Wood Wood stain Gas Hardwood Plywood


If anybody asks why you have so many clamps, well here is an example of why

Wood Wood stain Hardwood Plank Plywood


Opps must have forgotten to take a final picture showing the 16 clamps.

Next was a sand and rounding of the edges, started at 80G then moved on to 120G first up

Furniture Wood Natural material Chair Rectangle


Then a fill of the annoying holes

Table Wood Rectangle Bench Wood stain


That's was enough for today off for a Mothers day coffee with Aurora.
nice work.
 

Attachments

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