Making Mouldings #6: Kiefers pyramids or diamonds

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Blog entry by robscastle posted 03-17-2015 01:35 AM 1626 reads 0 times favorited 2 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 5: Rebating Round Stock on the Shaper Part 6 of Making Mouldings series Part 7: More contrasting pyramids from kiefers work »

No doubt you would have seen the 1882 box and the left over pieces Klaus used in the Timber Light tea lights just recently.

The craftsmanship is nothing short of excellent, and hence inspiring to the likes of me.

Being so impressed with the effect I was inqusitive enough to attempt to find out how it was done.

In the meantime I decided to attempt to reproduce them on my table saw.

Here is the results of my experiments:-

Attempt 1

I used a scraps of timber as I did not expect to get anything useable from my work.
Sure enough I was almost totally correct, mismatched cuts everywhere first up, but however some worthwile progress.

Continuing on and paying more attention to orienation I produced this result.

Something almost worth continuing with, so I dressed the sides down and ended up with this,

My first attempt was just passable so I thought I would pass on how I did it

The (my) Process:

1 Set the table saw to 45 degrees
2 Raise the blade to a height about 50% of the timber thickness.
3 Make the first cut, then using a bit of geomerty determine the position of the second repeat cut,
in this case I used 10mm mainly because of the scale on my table saw fence had divisions of 20, 10 and 5mm.

4 I then cut a complete series of the same orientation cuts.
5. I reversed the timber and gently began the intersecting apex cut, monitoring the height of the blade, and reduced it by about the width of the kerf ensuring I did not undercut the original correscpnding 45 deg cut
6. Moving the fence again in 10mm increments completed the additional cuts.
7 Fitted the slide and repeated the process at 90 deg to the orignal saw cuts again ising the saw fence at 10mm intervals
8 Sawed off the edges to make a panel section.

Attempt 2

Having achieved some reasonable results I repeated the process using 20mm intervals
This time I used a dressed and jointed piece of timber.

I opted to do the cross grain first to reduce chip out.

Then repeated the process ripping to finish and then cut it down to size and panel edged it.

Again I produced a reasonable result.

PPE: I do not usually mention guards and PPE however as there is no guard fitted take care and wear a face shield, also pay particular attention to leaning over the workpiece when viewing the saw cut as its being made, keep fingers and head/hair well clear of the rotating blade and be safe.

No doubt this is a crude method and possibly not the most efficient way to do it.
The results were reasonable but not what I would class as “sellable” possibly with more practice and then “maybe”.

I did further experiments with a rule as a more accurate guide rather then the “rubbery” fence gauge and obtained more precise results, but I do not recommend it for the inexperienced !

Acknowledgements: Have to go the Kiefer/Klaus for his brilliant inspiring work, Thank You!

-- Regards Rob

2 comments so far

View Roger's profile


21054 posts in 3889 days

#1 posted 03-17-2015 01:06 PM

Very nice pic how-to of this Rob

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. [email protected]

View stefang's profile


17040 posts in 4420 days

#2 posted 03-17-2015 05:20 PM

Those results are not bad at all for an experimental run Rob. I’m not sure how Klaus is doing his, but maybe he would be willing to share his method with you.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

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