Joints #1: SPalm and SMaloof Joint work

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Blog entry by robscastle posted 07-08-2014 04:26 AM 1903 reads 8 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch
no previous part Part 1 of Joints series Part 2: How to shorten timber using a tenoning Jig »

I was into more joints today inspired by the post of SPalm’s “Shop stool to table”.

I read Steve’s blog on how he did the joints, and frankly it looked a little too easy
So I raided my reycycled timber supply and ripped some stock to do a test run.

I didnt expect to get anywhere near the quality joint I finished up with, and I was a little disapointed after the fact that I had not used some better quality materials.

Any way here is a pictorial sequence of the joints I made.

1 The SP and SM Single Raduis Joint first up.

I sawed some stock to 32mm x 32mm for the leg and a piece of 19mm pine off cut for the table top.

Marked out the dimensions and rebated the top

I applied the radius to the leg and then used a table saw to cut a series of passes to make the the dado .

Then fitted them together

this is the underside and,

This is the top.

I was a little taken back by the ease this type of joint could be made, and how nice it looked, although its not a perfect fit it was accurate enough to persue in a final project.

I do not know exactky what size the bits were as they have no markings visible, so I sprayed them with paint so I could identify them later.( I will need to measure them and report back)

Not content with the results i obtained I Googled the “Maloof Joint” and found there is also double radiusJoint and supporting information sheet.

It was very interesting and looking even more complicated, so I decided to try again to see if I had not just fluked it!

2 The SP and SM Dual radius Joint.

First up measure out the size of the leg dimensions
Cut them out on the table saw again.

I used the same pair of cutters and adjusted the table saw to suit

Here is the fitup.

and side 2

Again there is a slight mismatch, I wondered why as it looked worse one side than the other, and upon close examination its from the radius cutter being too high and ciutting a slight recess in the leg.

It may possibly disappear when glued up, maybe i should do that and add an Post showing the result.

Both joints together


These type of joints can be made quite sucessfully and may be a possible choice for a unique project.

What am I going to do with them, well they will eventually end up in the scrap bin, but the knowledge and ability to make them certainly will not.

Credits: Must go to Steve and Sam in the first instance then the images on google, including the attachment showing the process, well if they are in fact your work smile as it has been appreciated and used, otherwise put your hand up and be recognised Thank You.

-- Regards Rob

6 comments so far

View stefang's profile


17040 posts in 4420 days

#1 posted 07-08-2014 07:30 AM

Nice experimental work Robert. This is a big part of the fun of woodworking for me, learning and trying out new things. You did a great job on that joint and you have now acquired another useful skill.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View degoose's profile


7281 posts in 4440 days

#2 posted 07-08-2014 09:29 AM

Very cool joinery…

-- Don't drink and use power tools @

View David Dean's profile

David Dean

608 posts in 3984 days

#3 posted 07-08-2014 10:35 AM

great job.

View SPalm's profile


5338 posts in 4967 days

#4 posted 07-08-2014 12:40 PM

Now you are ready to try a chair – single joint for the back legs and double joint for the front legs. Like you I look for uses for these joints. They are just so cool. Great for leg attachment to a thick top without a skirt.

Thanks for the shout-out but all I did was show people how to do it. Sam gets the credit.


-- -- I'm no rocket surgeon

View danr's profile


154 posts in 4270 days

#5 posted 07-08-2014 02:11 PM


Glad to see that you are trying one of these joints. I have some feedback for you if you would like to hear it. I have made about 16 of these type of joints recently for chair projects. The results have been good.

For the seat notch:
I always make the notch in the seat 2 inches long. The other dimension for this notch is a function of your application (i.e. the dimension of how far the leg needs to go into the seat material.

For the seat rabbit:
I use a rabbiting bit that is 1 and 1/2 inches in diameter and has a guide bearing. Using this bit, I want the final tung thickness to be 1/2 of the total seat thickness.

For the leg dado:
This has to match the seat joint tung thickness. I use the table saw for this operation and a sled. I get to the final dado depth using a shoulder plane. Leave the depth a little “strong” so as to allow for room for glue.

For the leg corners where they mate with the seat:
I use a 3/4 inch round over bit. This will match the radius in the seat where I used a 1 and 1/2 inch diameter rabbiting bit.

This is what I do for my applications. Note that I only use a set of Whiteside router bits for these operations. I believe, and am told that not all router bits are dimensionally accurate. I would really like it if Whiteside provided a “matched set” of rabbiting and round over bit that were individually tuned to each other at the factory.

I have had, what I believe to be, great results with the Whiteside bits. Note also that all of my router cuts are performed with a hand held router, not using a router table.

Good luck on your future projects.

View blackcherry's profile


3346 posts in 4908 days

#6 posted 07-08-2014 03:11 PM

Just open a new file in memory banks, exceptional joint fellas!

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