Tool Tip #4: Painters Tape Test Sample

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Blog entry by robscastle posted 08-28-2013 02:41 AM 1685 reads 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 3: Reverse Glue joint at 90 deg Aug 2013 Part 4 of Tool Tip series Part 5: Painters Tape Test No 2 »

If you read my project post “Aurora’s Lunch Caddy” you may have picked up on the weeping Black Dye problem I encountered.
Well MarkwithaK responded and directed me to an other product FROGTAPE.

So I checked it out on the net, not only did I find the tape I also saw some chevron tape as well both of which I would be interested to “Test Out”

I found Masters (an Ozzie version of Lowes) stock the product so I hopped off to purchase some.
Well sure enough there it was,
Green multi-surface “FROGTAPE” what a strange colour!
along with some,
Yellow Delicate Surface FROGTAPE, an even stranger colour!, tape as well but no chevron tape (boo hiss)

Any way after reading up on the product I see its designed specifically for latex paint and the green is mediun adhesion and the yellow low adhesion.

I purchased both and frogged it back home.

I set up a test block of ply the same as I used on the caddy.

Keeping in mind the Black dye is mineral based, this was my test setup

a piece of ply
1 x wad/pad
1 x bristle brush
1 x strip of my existing Blue painters tape 3M 2093 (Reported to be for mineral based paint)
1 x strip of my existing Green painters tape Shurtape CP150 ( reported to be suitable for all paints lacquers and varnishes)

I applied the tape and used the pad to apply the dye
The pad test section is the horizontal section
Removed the tape and it was almost perfect! what could have gone wrong?

So I retaped the ply and used the bristle brush, removed the tape and there was the bleeding again.

The brush test section is the two squares.

Here is a close up shot

Flipping the ply over I applied the Green FROGTAPE and repeated the process.
The left section is the pad and the right the brush


Trying to dye timber with a high contrast mineral based dye and expecting a delineated line is pushing the envelope.
From my tests it can be done with a pad but do not expect the same results with a brush.

I will do some more checking for a better painters tape specifically for mineral based paint.
I expect there will be a product somewhere but as for tape suitable for dye I would have say, “Your Dreaming”


Dye the material before fit up.

Enjoy. or have a good laugh !!

-- Regards Rob

5 comments so far

View badcrayon's profile


39 posts in 3064 days

#1 posted 08-28-2013 03:57 AM

I did some art panel a while ago that had a similar problem . I ended up sealing the surface with sanding sealer than taping it up and spraying on the stain from a distance. The result was crisp lines I’m sure classicly trained wood finishers will cringe but I got the effect I wanted.

-- Bad Crayon Studio

View shipwright's profile (online now)


8751 posts in 4041 days

#2 posted 08-28-2013 04:01 AM

Hey Rob, I’ve got a bunch of sample strips that look like that myself. Aniline dyes tested under different conditions.
Not using tape but maybe you’d be interested in my results in this blog.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese!

View nailbanger2's profile


1041 posts in 4387 days

#3 posted 08-28-2013 04:05 AM

The problem isn’t what kind of tape you’re using. It’s the fact that whatever dye or stain you use goes around (under) the tape. Frog tape does work great with paint, and it’s worth the money in some cases. The blue tape is for extended periods of time, which all depends on the condition of the substrate. I’m much more likely to use brown masking and sticking it to my shirt first.

-- Wish I were Norm's Nephew

View NormG's profile


6511 posts in 4247 days

#4 posted 08-28-2013 04:47 AM

I agree with Nailbanger2, tape is not the issue.

The pours and the grain will dictate the line (spread of the dye)

-- Norman - I never never make a mistake, I just change the design.

View PASs's profile


605 posts in 4342 days

#5 posted 08-28-2013 02:57 PM

Three votes that the stain is soaking THROUGH the grain of the wood.
I actually use that effect when I’m finishing some of my turnings. I put the piece in a vacuum vessel filled with polyurethane and pull a vacuum. The air bubbles out of the piece, then the poly flows back in when I release the vacuum, all done through capillary action of the wood grain.

-- Pete, "It isn't broken, you just aren't using it right."

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