First Impressions: Stepcraft-2/600 CNC

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Review by Patrick Jaromin posted 12-31-2016 04:26 PM 23422 views 2 times favorited 18 comments Add to Favorites Watch
First Impressions: Stepcraft-2/600 CNC First Impressions: Stepcraft-2/600 CNC First Impressions: Stepcraft-2/600 CNC Click the pictures to enlarge them

It started innocently enough.

The woman who was doing engraving work on my guitars was suddenly out of business. When I started searching the web for alternatives, I was presented with dozens of results for engraving machines and very few for services. This got me thinking that I could maybe just do it myself — buy a small, inexpensive engraver for simple things like engraving truss rod covers and neck plates. I quickly discovered that the cheap laser engravers wouldn’t handle steel neck plates. So I would need to look at rotary engraving machines.Things quickly escalated from there — I reasoned “if I’m going to buy a CNC machine I’d better get one that could at least cut full-size guitar body templates.”

And so the hunt began.


The first machine I considered was the X-Carve by Inventables. The main reason was one of my favorite YouTube luthiers was selected to receive a free X-Carve in exchange for a video review, and it seemed to be working well for him. However, after watching several of these YT reviews (Inventables sent out a lot of these free machines!) I determined that it simply wasn’t for me. First off, many of the reviewers found them to be imprecise and several had either stopped using them altogether or, in the case of at least one, donated the machine and upgraded to a different brand. It seemed to me like owning an X-Carve was an investment in tinkering with the CNC machine more than building actual components. I don’t really want to become a CNC engineer. Additionally, they weren’t sized well for my shop anyway — the model with a sufficient table size wouldn’t fit comfortably.

CNC Shark

Next I turned to the CNC Shark by Next Wave Automation. For some time I’d been eyeing their small “CNC Pirahna Fx.” At just over $1,500 this seemed like a great deal. Unfortunately I also knew I’d be very quickly frustrated with the small table size — at just over 12” square there was no way I could cut a guitar body template let alone a body blank. The larger Shark provided sufficient work area, but was also nearly $3,000.

In addition, I was able to take a closer look at these machines at our new local Rockler store and the gantry seemed weak. I could easily deflect the gantry X/Z-axis assembly with only moderate pressure applied at the base of the spindle mount. The Axiom machine sitting next to it was rock solid, but at $4K was above my price limit and again suffered from the same table size issues — the one that fit my space was too small for the work, and the one that fit the work wouldn’t fit in the available space.

3040 and 6040 machines

In the process of researching the name brand machines, I discovered the generic Chinese 3040/6040 machines. No one seems to know who designed and built the originals but there are literally dozens of sellers on Ebay offering some version of this design. Furthermore, the 6040 was sized almost perfectly for my space. It’s a little narrow at just over 15” of X travel, but would certainly accommodate over 90% of the guitar bodies I’m interested in cutting. Many reviewers report happy experiences with these machiens, but several went through numerous iterations of their setup, replacing various components until they were satisfied with the result.

The price on these machines is incredibly attractive and they seem solidly built and dependable. In the end, however, I was scared away by the owners who reported spending significant time troubleshooting and resolving issues with the machine and controllers. And as for support, while online forums are certainly helpful, when you buy a machine from an unknown manufacturer and seller on EBay, you’re essentially on your own to resolve any issues. The probability of early head-banging and risk of worse just didn’t seem worth the cost savings. I wanted something that would “just work” and included some level of professional support — someone’s phone (or neck!) to ring if there were issues.

The Stepcraft-2 CNC machines

Then I discovered Stepcraft. I was immediately impressed by the aesthetic of the machine — modern, sleek, clean. Furthermore, the 600 model would fit almost exactly in the space I had in mind and the approximately 23.5” x 16.5” travel distance means I can cut all but the larger archtop guitar plates. Unfortunately I found very little in the way of reviews online for this machine. Unlike the 6040, there seemed to be a rather small (tiny?) user community, however there was an actual company and support organization behind it. It also didn’t include any software beyond the UCCNC control software used to convert the G-code into machine-specific commands. In the end, I was convinced by the online user videos of this machine in action and decided it offered the best trade-off between cost and support.

I ordered the machine on Black Friday and it arrived 3 weeks later in a large 50 lbs. box.

Assembling the machine

Like the X-Carve (and unlike most of the others I reviewed), the Stepcraft 2 comes in kit form (unless you pay them an extra $500 for assembly). I chose to build it myself saving the money and more valuably, gaining an insight into how this machine works and what can be adjusted.

The assembly instructions are colorful and consist almost entirely of illustrations. Many of the key assembly bits are punctuated with QR codes pointing to online videos giving further details on the process. This made for a fairly easy, if not thoroughly enjoyable, assembly process. There were a few gotchas along the way though…

First, the “X-Z-connector” assembly black plastic “cable collector” parts kept falling out of place. This is the very first bit you assemble and so it was a major hassle. More troubling was once the wiring was fed through the collector, the constant in-out of the piece wore away the insulation on the wiring. I augmented with black electrical tape, but the wiring is now weakened in this area. It shouldn’t be an issue as the wires are generally stable now that the machine assembly is complete, but it’s obviously not ideal.

The use of adhesive strips to secure and encase wiring means that if I ever need to access the wiring (say to replace worn insulation!), I will need to pry the strips back and reglue them or purchase replacements.

The X,Y, & Z lead screw adjustments. Here’s a case where, though I did read through the manual before starting, I didn’t catch the adjustment at the very end and so spent far too much time fussing over the earlier adjustments. The video suggests using calipers to set the lead screw at this early stage, implying it’s critical to get it precise. However, it’s quite difficult to make this measure when the gantry uprights are still loose. I wound up rigging up special clamping jigs so I could get this accurately set. In the end, you do a final adjustment with the machine nearly fully assembled. At this point it’s trivially easy to adjust. There’s no need to sweat the adjustment at the earlier stage – I wish they would have said to just eyeball it close as that would have certainly been good enough.

The black flexible tube wire chases make for a very neat appearance, but are a huge pain to feed the wiring through. I don’t really have an alternative suggestion, but perhaps a slightly larger diameter tube would have made this a bit less tedious.

The wiring block is too close to the chassis making it difficult to insert the wires. Again, not a huge issue, but at this late point in the build — when you can almost smell the sawdust it’s gonna make — it’s annoying to have to spend so much time and energy trying to feed the wire ends into the block in such an unnecessarily tight space.

First cuts

I didn’t track my hours but I probably spent between 8 – 12 hours on the build over two days. The included UCCNC software was easy to install, though unfortunately I only skimmed the installation instructions and missed a key step resulting in some head scratching and concerns over the wiring. Once this was cleared up however, the machine checked out and was ready for a first cut. I clamped down a 1/2” thick scrap of plywood, loaded the test “” file into UCCNC, and homed the machine for the cut. Success!


In order to generate my own G-code for this machine, I would need a CAD/CAM program. I tried several applications, including the amazing (and free!) Autodesk Fusion 360. But in the end opted to start buy purchasing Vectric Cut2D. It’s inexpensive ($149) and does 90% of what I need. Ultimately I hope to fill in the remaining 10% with Fusion 360 — once I learn how to use it, that is! In the meantime, Cut2D is very easy to learn and use. I exported a simple logo (mine) from CorelDraw and created tool paths in Cut2D. Once this was fed into UCCNC and I made my first real test cut

Final thoughts

I’ve started playing around with this machine on some small projects with the kids, starting with edge-lit acrylic signs. The results have been impressive and I’ll write this project up separately. Suffice it to say I’m loving this machine! It’s especially adept at making multiple identical copies of small parts — something I’d never be able to safely and accurately do by hand.

The gantry is very solid and rigid. It moves smoothly and I’ve re-run/re-cut parts and found no noticeable deviation on the second or third pass. I milled four identical small boxes with rectangular inset doors. The accuracy was such that any of the doors fit in any orientation in any of the boxes. And the fit was tight enough to remain in place with friction alone, no latching required. I can see many uses for this capability, including things like milling perfect pickup rings and covers out of figured hardwood.

I’m fine with the UCCNC software. The interface is a bit cartoonish, better suited to a small machine-mounted touch screen than a desktop PC. I’m guessing that’s what it was originally designed for. Having no professional CNC experience I can’t say how it compares with other programs or professional machines. It was easy to learn and I’ve been able to do everything I need with it so far, so it is certainly at least adequate.

I’m not terribly fond of the included clamping system. The bolts are awkward to hand tighten and having to use hex wrench to secure material is tedious. The clamping rails also have a tendency to fall out of the slots during clamping. One of the first improvements I plan to make is constructing a replacement bed of MDF with t-slots for clamping.

Another issue I’m having with the machine that I haven’t yet investigated on the forums or with support, is the “soft limits” in UCCNC. They seem to artificially restrict the work area. Furthermore, I’ve noticed that if I jog the gantry to the extreme end, triggering the Y-axis limit switch, UCCNC will continue to increment the position in the software for some time after the gantry has stopped moving. This has the effect of moving the Y-axis 0 position away from the end of the machine, effectively losing some of the bed capacity. For the time being I’ve found that disabling software limits works around this condition effectively. The hardware limit switches are still there to protect the machine. I’m hoping this is something that can be easily remedied but at this point it’s more an annoyance and not something that’s preventing me from working with the machine.

Overall I feel very good about this purchase and plan to start cutting templates and guitars on this machine in the next week or so. I haven’t used it long enough to recommend this machine yet, but will update this post with my experience and opinions after some time has passed and I’ve had a chance to use it on more projects.

[Originally posted at]

UPDATE #1: After several weeks I find I’m liking this machine – and CAD/CAM more and more. I’ve sorted out my “soft limits” issue (safe-Z setting in Cut2D) and have started learning Fusion 360 which I intend to use for more complex projects. I’ve made a new base surface of MDF and will be installing threaded inserts as soon as they arrive. I’ll also be upgrading the screenset of UCCNC with the one from Ger21 here which should remove my UI concerns with UCCNC. I’ll be building a z-axis touch plate and installing a laser pointer to help positioning soon. Definitely happy with this purchase so far!

-- Patrick, Chicago, IL

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Patrick Jaromin

412 posts in 4603 days

18 comments so far

View Ottacat's profile


517 posts in 2622 days

#1 posted 12-31-2016 05:33 PM

Great in-depth review and overview of other machines. I haven’t made the step into CNC myself yet but articles like this are a great resource. I’m looking forward to seeing you update this post as you use it more.

View Grumpy's profile


26427 posts in 4622 days

#2 posted 12-31-2016 06:56 PM

Patrick, anyone thinking about CNC would benefit a lot from your review.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

View blackcherry's profile


3344 posts in 4594 days

#3 posted 12-31-2016 07:08 PM

Fantastic review, thought I was reading something out of FWW magazine. Should turnout as a nice addition to your shop work. Your kids will reap plenty from your guidance, best of New Years Pat.

View WhoMe's profile


1568 posts in 4014 days

#4 posted 01-01-2017 01:28 AM

Thanks for such a in depth review. I like your comparison of the machines and your explanation of your reasoning behind your decision. Although i liked the shark at my local rockler, I too noticed the deflection issue.
The great thing is that you have a business case for some income work. In my case, I would have to have some business case to purchase a CNC machine
Thanks for the great review.

-- I'm not clumsy.. It's just the floor hates me, the tables and chairs are bullies, the wall gets in the way AAANNNDDD table saws BITE my fingers!!!.. - Mike -

View tim387's profile


66 posts in 1970 days

#5 posted 01-01-2017 04:05 AM

Hi Patrick. I too, being just west of you had trouble finding a wood engraver. Plenty of aluminum plaques though. I looked for several years thinking of what I wanted and how to finance it. With time comes savings and knowlage and I came down to x carve and shark hd4. Then shark came up with the lazer rebate and that made the deal. So I’ll pick it up in a few weeks. I liked the shark had friendlier software too. We will see.

-- Tim S. Top notch stick kicker

View Patrick Jaromin's profile

Patrick Jaromin

412 posts in 4603 days

#6 posted 01-01-2017 11:41 AM

Thanks, guys…I’m glad someone finds this info useful. I know I read a lot of stuff before jumping in.

@Tim – yeah, the laser is cool. You can get one for the Stepcraft too, though I doubt I’ll get it for what I’m doing. The laser + VCarve software do make the current deal at Rockler fairly attractive as that’s over $1,000 worth of extras. I liked VCarve’s simplicity as well – Cut2D is essentially a watered-down version of VCarve. Same interface but without the 2.5D features. I’m sure you’ll dig the Shark…I look forward to seeing your first projects!

-- Patrick, Chicago, IL

View Roger's profile


21030 posts in 3575 days

#7 posted 01-01-2017 10:47 PM

Wow! Congrats on the new toy. Have fun

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Keep your dust collector fed. [email protected]

View Desert_Woodworker's profile


2760 posts in 1985 days

#8 posted 01-02-2017 03:08 AM

Thank you for promoting CNC in woodworking- first from I have read on line the machine cost of this package: $1700 machine; $500 for assembly; $2,200 What I did not read from your review was what type of router or spindle are you using? From their site it appears to be set up for “small” motors similar to XCarve and the motor is optional. Low end $200; $2,400 -CNC bits? A good starter set $200; $2,600 -Software $750; $3,350 -Computer $300 Total for this set up $3,600
Conclusion: from this introductory review and little if any information on the web regarding this company- I would stay away from this machine for in my opinion it is an upgraded XCarve.
To the reviewer- I hope you are happy with your purchase and the enjoyment into CNC Woodworking

-- Desert_Woodworker

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5623 posts in 4483 days

#9 posted 01-02-2017 04:18 AM

A very readable and informative review; thank you for taking the time and effort to write this.

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

View Patrick Jaromin's profile

Patrick Jaromin

412 posts in 4603 days

#10 posted 01-02-2017 12:54 PM

Thanks, Roger and Mark!

@Desert- Well, I’d say all of the machines I looked at could be considered “upgraded X-Carves” if that’s your baseline. None of the machines I looked at use “large” motors or a suitable for production work at any scale – these are all hobby grade.

The cost of starter bits is a constant – none of these machines includes a quality set of bits. Irrelevant for comparison. None of these I discussed except the Chinese machines includes a spindle. So you’re paying extra for that as well with the Stepcraft and Shark. Again, constant cost.

The assembly cost is truly optional with Stepcraft. I view that as a plus – I didn’t pay it and chose to pay with my time instead. Saved $500. As for software, the fact that they don’t bundle in design software (though UCCNC control software is included) gave me a choice and saved me paying for VCarve Desktop ($349 -the Shark I looked at doesn’t include the $749 “pro”). I instead chose the much cheaper Cut2D ($149) for the “now” and am learning Fusion 360 for 2.5D/3D – which is both free and more powerful than any of the other paid software tools I considered. X-Carve’s free online Easel looks dreadful and scores poorly in reviews.

From my limited experience and based on the numerous reviews and videos I’ve seen the Stepcraft machine appears to be a major upgrade over X-Carve. Compare the gantries – I don’t have the tech specs handy but the from photos the uprights appear to be rather thin gauge sheet metal on the X-Carve. The Shark’s feel acrylic (can’t confirm). The Stepcraft is 1/2” aluminum. The X-Carve Y-axis rides on belts, the Stepcraft and Shark use ball screws (in different configurations).

As for my out-of-pocket, if you start with the $1500 base (I paid $200 less on Black Friday), add in the Kress 800W spindle for $269 and Cut2D for $149 you get $1918 – with shipping just over $2000. Comparable X-Carve would be around ~1,775 with shipping (assuming separate Cut2D purchase). Chinese machines even less, though impossible to compare due to the variations in configurations and unknowns. Starting point for CNC Shark right now is $4000.

The CNC Shark looks really nice, includes a t-slotted aluminum bed (a $349 option on Stepcraft though I will skip and make an MDF version from stock on-hand) and a store like Rockler to stand behind it. So there’s a lot to like about that IMHO. But it’s also nearly twice the price (even with software factored in) and the gantry is primarily acrylic and visibly deflects.

I concur with the concerns over the sparsity of information on the company – I’d say it runs somewhere between the Chinese totally unknown manufacturers and the Next Wave/Rockler manufacturer/retailer combo. So definitely anyone considering these machines should factor that in.

For me it came down to budget – I wasn’t willing to spend more than around $2K in cash and wanted something significantly better than the X-Carve. I feel fairly certain thus far that I’ve accomplished that. Time will tell.

Thanks for adding to the discussion!

-- Patrick, Chicago, IL

View Desert_Woodworker's profile


2760 posts in 1985 days

#11 posted 01-02-2017 05:29 PM

@patric- thank you for the response- got it.

-- Desert_Woodworker

View Ger21's profile


1099 posts in 3902 days

#12 posted 01-05-2017 12:34 AM

Another issue I’m having with the machine that I haven’t yet investigated on the forums or with support, is the “soft limits” in UCCNC.

Make sure that you’re using the latest version of UCCNC. Also, consider joining the UCCNC forum. The support is fast and excellent.

UCCNC is actually a very good cnc controller. Many long time Mach3 users are making the switch to UCCNC.

As for the “cartoonish” look. I’ll be offering an updated interface for UCCNC in a few weeks. It’ll include macros for Z axis auto zero, and automatic tool zeroing after tool changes. Here’s a preview.

-- Gerry,

View Patrick Jaromin's profile

Patrick Jaromin

412 posts in 4603 days

#13 posted 01-05-2017 01:10 AM

Gerry – Wow, yeah that UI looks much slicker and easier to use! Really dig all the included macros. Pretty amazing timing.

I’ll be sure to sign up on the UCCNC forum. I think I’ve worked out my earlier soft limit issues – I’m starting to get the hang of it. The only issue I’ve run into recently with the software is I accidentally hit the “zero all” button in the middle of a multi-step operation. Following a suggestion I saw online I relocated that button (swapped places with the machine coordinates toggle. Looks like you removed it altogether…which seems like a very good idea.

I’ll be sure to bookmark your site and check back to get this when it’s finished. Thanks!!

-- Patrick, Chicago, IL

View Desert_Woodworker's profile


2760 posts in 1985 days

#14 posted 01-05-2017 03:41 AM

Gerry and Patrick- I hope that you guys continue to post this type of dialog- for it promotes CNC in woodworking.
Patric- I look forward to a follow up review on your CNC

-- Desert_Woodworker

View Muriel's profile


101 posts in 3463 days

#15 posted 01-27-2018 03:34 PM

I bought (ebay) a 3 axes CNC router Engraver 3040T few weeks ago.
Although I may say I have lot of experience in marketry and scroll sawing I am totally new to CAD/CAM – CNC … but I have starting learning and begin to find my way ! I am convinced using CNC to engrave wood will bring added value to my work.

BUT … I need advice regarding the variety of drill bits – freeze or whatever it’s called. Being located in Belgium I have been searching a lot but could not find any suitable for a ER11 1/4 inch (3.175mm).
So I went to ebay & Amazon but don’t know exactly what to use for what work (engraving text, cutting pieces out, etc).
Could you (or anyone else) help me ?

Thanks !

-- Muriel, Belgium

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