Rigid 2410LS

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Review by Teaza posted 06-19-2009 02:42 AM 5889 views 0 times favorited 6 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Rigid 2410LS Rigid 2410LS No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

I purchased the Rigid 2410LS saw from Home Depot yesterday. The saw was retailing for $499 and after tax it came out to $530. I managed to fit the entire unit in the back seat of my 99 Lincoln Town Car by taking it out of the carton. I stuffed the packaging materials in the trunk and slid the saw in the back seat. It was easy enough to lift right in, a bit of a tight fit but compact enough to get in there. That in itself impressed me.

I got it home and before I unwrapped the plastic, I took a few moments to take a skim over the manual. After gleaning the high points I unwrapped the saw and set it up. First thing I checked was the tightness of the blade, it was solid. Next I assembled the blade guard, its a nifty rig that aligns on a couple of pins and has a quick release thumb screw to put it on and off. It stores very conveniently in a niche under the right side of the table. The rip fence and miter fence also have designated storage spots under the right end of the table.

After fiddling with the guard, I put the miter fence on, it has a tounge on the bottom which keeps it in the miter slot even if the end where you hold it is hanging out off the table, quite a nice feature. The miter fence is built rather solid and has the quintessential through-holes to add on an auxillary fence.

On to the rip fence, this unit really impressed me. It came out of the box and slid onto its rails with almost no play whatsoever, the unit at the store was horribly sloppy and I feared I would have to adjust mine, but it was snug and slid on the rails seemingly parallel to the blade.

Next up was the dial indicator… After setting up a magnetic base on the miter fence (table is aluminum so it worked like a charm), I ran the indicator up the side of the blade while keeping pressure in one direction against the miter slot. The blade was cantered about .030. It was a quick adjustment by loosening the 4 screws on the top of the table and shifting the blade carriage until the blade was within .002 of the slot. I tightened it down and rechecked the parallelism, it was good.

I then checked the squareness to the table with my combo square and that was good. Lastly I made sure the rip fence truly was parallel and it repeated a few times with just sliding it and locking down. It held about .015 from front to back which I was pretty impressed with. A little thumb pressure pushing the fence away in the back left me with a nice comfortable feeling.

We had rain come through so I packed up the unit and….. fast forward 15 hours

Thursday morning I took the machine back out to the deck and fired it up. Interestingly my outdoor circuitry is on a 15 amp breaker, with my old saw I would pop the breaker if I powered up off that circuit. I figured lets give it a whirl and the circuit was sufficient. The motor is a slow start which I like, it is pretty loud though. Now that I am thinking about it I should have run the indicator to each of the teeth to check for runout, I will do that tomorrow.

I ran the rip fence out to 8 inches on the steel rule, and made a cut on some 1/4 birch ply, it gave me a perfect 8” as per a steel tape. One thing that I had mixed feelings about was the inlaid steel tape on the table. It serves its purpose, but I find it a little chintzy. I guess from an engineering perspective it is a solid design. And I will explain.
The table has a lever inlaid which releasing it allows the table extension to slide out, in so doing the tape will unravel and follow along so you can make longer cuts and still use the quick embedded rule.

The blade that came stock with the machine is a carbide 28 tooth (if I remember correctly) and makes a nice clean cut but I think a Forrest WW2 would find itself nicely at home on my saw. The stock blade will be great on my chop saw which is in dire need of a new one anyhow.

One thing I noticed is when the table is fully extended I had about 1/32nd inaccuracy when using the inlaid steel rule, which is acceptable for me because it was easilly compensated for. It cut long so it was a quick adjust and cleanup.

The stand is great, when folded up it is essentially a hand truck and makes it easy to move the saw around, the tires are fat and go over my door threshold easilly. Going from setup to mobile mode is a simple one hand release and either push or pull the unit. It takes all of 10 seconds to be setup and ready to go.

Overall I rate this tool a 5, I am throroughly impressed with it.

I would also like to thank those LJs who recommended I look at the Rigid brand, as you did me a genuine service.

-- Honey... I need to buy a tool to build you a present!

View Teaza's profile


19 posts in 4607 days

6 comments so far

View Jim's profile


80 posts in 5417 days

#1 posted 06-19-2009 03:01 AM

You actually looked at a manual first ??!! Ok, you skimmed it but even that would be a first for most of us! Seriously though, thanks for the good review. Yes. most of the portables are real screamers – don’t forget your hearing protection, LJ’ers!

-- Jim,

View Gordon's profile


2 posts in 4637 days

#2 posted 06-19-2009 07:12 AM

Do you find the on/off switch difficult to locate? I am consistently fumbling for the one on mine.

Overall, it’s a great saw. Thanks for taking the time to share your review.

View Teaza's profile


19 posts in 4607 days

#3 posted 06-19-2009 08:12 AM

Gordon – yes the switch is definitely a pain in the butt… however, having spent many years working in machine shops I will probably setup a nice “big red stopper” button and epoxy it onto the saw where it is much easier accessed. The Emergency stop button on a CNC machine I was running saved many a part and plenty of flesh in all those years.

Jim – tbh I read the safety part only and a quick overview of the schematic. I am a bit of a safety freak.

-- Honey... I need to buy a tool to build you a present!

View depictureboy's profile


420 posts in 4982 days

#4 posted 06-19-2009 03:33 PM

I have the previous version of this saw…I dont like the stand on the new saw it seems to take more space when you have it open…but yes this is a great saw…

-- If you can't build it, code it. If you can't code it, build it. But always ALWAYS take a picture.

View ToddE's profile


143 posts in 5274 days

#5 posted 06-19-2009 05:04 PM

Ridgid tools are great for many reasons. I have a wide range of tools and I can tell you between Delta professional series and upper level Grizzly, Ridgid is a great solution. I know that there are jets and powermatics, etc., which most hobbyests can’t afford. Usually to most guys, Delta Professional and Grizzlys are high end models. But other than Ridgid, who else offers such great warranties on their tools? They have a great online customer service that lets you track your warranties and register your products. They are really great tools. Most of my shop is filled with Ridgid tools. I love their drills and the free batteries. I have Ridgid full size table saw, bandsaw, the bench top sanding station, planers, drills, drill sets, pack kits, circular saws, routers, saw zaws, lights, blah blah blah and they have performed flawlessly! No complaints what so ever. Keep in mind that there are heavier duty tools out there, like our 20” Grizzly planer, 3 hp Delta Shapers and Unisaw cabinet saws, but for most of us, these tools are a great value and a great product to do almost anything we need them to do.
Their cordless equipment is great. Their regular circular saw by far is the most reliable, powerful saw on the market. Their cordless saw is the best cordless saw I have ever used. It has more power, being cordless, than most corded models do. Again, I can’t say enough about them. I have used and purchased from every single manufacturer that’s out there and I am telling you these tools definitely stack up! Actually, I get frustrated sometimes when they don’t put these tools in the head to head competitions in some of the trade magazines. Quality, affordability, durability, man what more could you ask for? P.S. I am not an employee for Ridgid by the way, I just play one on tv.

-- Allegheny Woodshop

View Routerisstillmyname's profile


763 posts in 4849 days

#6 posted 06-19-2009 10:53 PM

If you move both front and back rails to the right as far as the rip fence will allow on the left, you’ll have maximum rip capacity.

-- Router è ancora il mio nome.

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