Powermatic PJ-882HH 8-Inch Parallelogram Jointer & Mobile Base Review

  • Advertise with us
Review by JBrow posted 04-26-2016 05:06 PM 14378 views 3 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Powermatic PJ-882HH 8-Inch Parallelogram Jointer & Mobile Base Review No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

Purchase Decision. Woodworking is a hobby in my 2 car commandeered garage. I thought it time to upgrade from my 6” Craftsman jointer with its 36” long bed. The Craftsman never let me down since the late 1980’s, continued to work well, and was a great entry level jointer. However, it lacked the convenience of a long and wide bed. Replacing straight knives was always a challenge.

In addition to an 8” wide X long bed, I wanted a helical cutter head and tables mounted with a parallelogram system. I felt the parallelogram table support system would make adjusting the outfeed and infeed tables easier than with dovetail ways. Having no experience using the helical cutter head, I had some concern that the jointed surfaces would be slightly grooved or scalloped.

From my research I quickly concluded that Laguna, Grizzly, and Powermatic were my top three. All had 8” wide X 7’ long beds. I concluded all three to be comparable in features, probably performance, and price (within a few hundred dollars).

I liked the Grizzly design of hand wheels to raise and lower the tables and Grizzly. I would have upgraded the Grizzly 36 straight edged (I think) insert helical cutter head to the Byrd Shelix cutter head with 54 curved edged inserts. Even had I chosen the Grizzly, they were out of stock on many of their jointers over several of months. I was concerned that Grizzly was doing something behind the scenes, maybe switching factories and/or making design changes. I did not want to be on the leading edge of these changes if either was the case.

The Laguna looked like a nice machine, but with a 1 year warranty and so many complaints about customer service, my leaning was away from Laguna. I found few on-line reviews for the Laguna model. But I have a Laguna spindle shaper and it is a great machine, so I am sure their 8” jointer would have nonetheless been a good choice.

I selected the Powermatic PJ-882HH 8” jointer in spite of what I concluded was a negative Lumberjock review from 2013. The reviewer’s negative comments had to do with the difficultly of adjusting the tables co-planar and Powermatic customer service. The review was largely silent regarding performance. I have two Powermatic machines which, in my experience, are well built machines. Powermatic offers a 5 year warranty, suggesting their confidence in the quality of the machine. Shipping was included in the price.

I also bought the Powermatic mobile base since I sometimes have to move machines out of the way. I ordered the machine and mobile base on-line from CPO. Lift gate service was included.

Delivery and Setup. The mobile base arrived within a few days of ordering. Estes, the shipper, set the PJ-882HH on my driveway in front of the garage workshop about 2 weeks after I placed the order. There was what appeared to be superficial damage to the shipping crate. I noted the damage on the bill of lading, which the shipping guy initialed and dated, took a couple of photos just in case, and disassembled the plywood crate. The jointer was well secured in the shipping crate, all parts were present, and nothing was damaged.

I rented an engine crane hoist and using a long tow strap, lifted the jointer from the pallet and set it on the mobile base. The mobile base required no assembly. The jointer offered 4 built-in retracting lifting bars from which the jointer is lifted. I highly recommend this method for setting this machine in place.

I cleaned the jointer’s cast iron with Sprayway’s 909 Heavy Duty Orange Plus Degreaser I bought from Grizzly. It removed the protective oil coating from the cast iron easily. I mounted the bar that supports the on-off switch, installed the cutter guard, checked belt tension, and the machine was ready to go – except for any tuning up.

A dedicated 220v 20a circuit with a switch next to the receptacle is used to power the machine. The power cord and plug were pre-wired to the jointer. The illustrated manual is easy enough to follow and was mostly complete, but shared print space with the PJ-882 straight knife jointer. Several manuals were included. I kept only the English version. I really dislike single 200 page manuals printed in 4 languages.

The only adjusting I performed before making the first test cut was to ensure the inserts on the cutter head were fully seated. While all inserts were well fastened, a few inserts were further tightened by just a slight firm twist by hand using the included pair of star drivers. I wanted to ensure the inserts were firmly seated for performance and safety.

The jointer started right up and ran quietly with a solid sound. A test board was edge jointed, revealing snip at the end the cut. The outfeed table was set too low when raised against the stop. A quick adjustment of the limiting stop brought the outfeed table up to top dead center of the fence-side inserts and the snip was eliminated. I did note that while one edge of the outfeed table was now perfectly aligned, the top dead center of the insert on the opposite edge of the table just barely (hardly at all) caught the edge of my straight edge, but I felt this was probably close enough.

While I had the 4’ level out, yeah not the most precise of straight edges, I checked for co-planar tables. They looked good. I took a 2’ long piece of scrap about 5” wide and face jointed it several times. When the scrap piece was laid on the table saws flat top, the jointed surface looked flat to me. Longer 6’ face jointed boards lay flat one on the other with no gaps. Powermatic recommends checking their factory settings and since I figure they whip through these adjustments pretty fast, I thought I was going to be in for a long day. However the factory adjustments looked pretty good.

I elected to replace the 4” dust port with a 6” diameter dust port. This involved mounting a 6” adjustable HVAC elbow to plywood and replacing the provided 4” dust port. Mounting tabs were cut into the 6” HVAC elbow. The 6” elbow mounting tabs were sandwiched between two pieces of ¼” of plywood cut to the same rectangular size as the factory provided 4” dust port mounting plate. It attached to the machine using the mounting holes and screws provided for the included 4” dust port.

Performance. The jointer has not been long in the shop, so problems that could be revealed after a jointing a few thousand board feet of lumber will go unnoticed in this review. Overall, the PJ-882HH jointer is a very nice machine and the cutter head is great. Irregularities in rough lumber are readily removed leaving a silky smooth finish on lumber made flat. I was amazed and am sold on the Powermatic Cutter Head (I think it is Byrd’s Shelix cutter head). With the light cuts I take (maybe 1/32”), the resistance from pushing the lumber across the jointer bed is perfect. One Powermatic push pad (two are included and offer thick neoprene pads) with light downward pressure is all the force needed (though I always use two push pads). The 84” long beds provide great support for the stock, a big difference from the Craftsman jointer.

The fence slides easily and quietly across the width of the table and locks firmly in place. The rack and pinion fence tilt mechanism operates smoothly, tilting the fence toward or away from the operator and easily locks firmly in place. Both locking mechanisms are within easy reach. There are fence angle stops which work ok, but are not ones on which I would rely. They perform well enough to dial in the fence to a close approximate position, but whenever I want a dead accurate set-up, I will use an accurate angle gauge. I find this problem common among most machines – not unique to Powermatic.

The jointer is heavy and the motor and cutter head are well balanced. The 2 hp motor has plenty of power especially with the segmented cutter head and the light cuts I make. There is no perceptible vibration from the machine, even during cuts. The wife reports that she can barely hear the machine running from the adjacent living room, even under dust collection. In summary, while expensive, it appears to be a great machine within the scope of my use thus far.

The mobile base is a welded heavy frame with 3-3/4” diameter wheels. The two fixed wheels are set proud of the sides of the frame on the outfeed side of the jointer but are out of the way. These are locked by knobbed screws that press into the wheels. The swivel casters are mounted to L brackets welded to the opposite end of the frame and set under the jointer, keeping them out of the way. The swivel casters side-mounted locks hold the swivel wheels firmly in place. The jointer stays put, sets close to the floor, and rolls smoothly. The mobile base more expensive than most mobile bases, but is well-built and well-designed.

Misses. However, the machine is not perfect. The biggest and most significant issue I found is with the cutter guard. The cutter guard was designed with a stepped edge. The cutout in the cutter guard’s edge is located where stock contacts the guard to swing it out of the way, creating a void along the edge. The un-stepped edge of the cutter guard is where it fastens to the table. It clears the cast iron top at the attaching point by about 1/4” or so, depending on how the cutter guard is attached to the table. The stepped section of the guard’s edge is cut out all along the infeed and the outfeed sides of the guard where it sets over the tables. As is, the cutter guard works fine for edge jointing. It is also ok when face jointing stock that is thick enough to contact the guard and not slip underneath. However, as the thickness of the face jointed workpiece equals the relief cut in the cutter guard, the workpiece slides under and contacts the edge of the guard allowing some downward pressure to be applied by the guard. This problem can be amplified if the guard sags at all or stock slips under the guard and the workpiece increases in thickness as the workpiece is advanced. Although it has not happened, I can foresee stock getting jammed under the guard.

Photo Showing Cutter Guard Stepped Design

Photo Showing My Cutter Guard Solution

I contacted Powermatic Technical Support (TS) regarding this issue. TS offered no alternative cutter guard, could not explain the engineering of the guard, nor could they offer a solution.

I hated doing so, but it became such a problem that I installed cardboard with masking tape to close up this gap. The cutter guard now works fine since stock contacts the cardboard and swings the guard out of the way, but the new jointer looks awful. This is a real disappointment and the reason for a 4 star ratings; and perhaps it should be rated at 3 stars because of this single issue. Also, unless I find a more durable solution, the fix will have to be repaired or replaced from time to time.

The second performance affecting issue I ran into is the plastic insert in the fence that keeps the cast iron of the fence from rubbing against and scratching the cast iron table as the fence slides across the table. Powermatic is evidently proud of this innovation since it is touted in their literature. It is a nice touch. Unfortunately when received, the plastic insert was not flush with the face of the fence. As a result, the edge of face-jointed lumber would catch the edge of the cast iron at the plastic insert, spoiling the cut. In my case the plastic insert was recessed from the surface of the fence.

I removed the fence and adjusted the insert until it set flush with the fence. Removing and re-installing the fence was easy enough. However, getting the plastic insert flush was a 3 hour project. The plastic insert deforms slightly along is length and height and moved out of position when tightening the mounting screws. There was no engineering that I could see that would allow for this flush-up adjustment. Since the cast iron fence was not beveled where the plastic insert is installed, it must be flush mounted. The manual offered no help in this regard. Of course, great care was required to ensure the plastic insert was not proud of the fence since otherwise it could affect edge jointing. Now that the plastic insert sets flush with the fence, the edge-catching problem is fixed. I doubt I will every have to revisit this adjustment.

Observations. A common complaint I have read concerning machines with switches mounted at eye level is the flex in the post to which the switch is mounted. The PJ-882-HH is no different. There is some flex when turning the machine on or off. However, deflection when pressing firmly against the switch is very minor (I doubt it more than ¼” or maybe less). The limited flex in the switch post on this machine is probably because the Powermatic cabinet is made of a heavier gauge metal. I do not believe this is a problem, even after years of use.

This is not really much of an issue, just one I decided to mention. When using the PJ-882HH jointer, I find the convex cabinet with the mobile base extends the belly at the front of the machine out putting the base a little in the way when running lumber across the jointer bed. I am not sure whether the bellied front is an aesthetic design element, adds machine stability, and/ or required to accommodate the motor. Nonetheless, a couple of additional inches at the floor would have made the jointer a little more comfortable for me to use. But then the Craftsman was on a leg stand, open in the center at the floor, but the splayed legs of the Craftsman were always in the way. I figure I just exchanged one problem with the Craftsman for another with the Powermatic. In the end, I am sure I will adapt and this bellied cabinet will not be a problem. And it is not much of a problem even now.

It would be nice if Powermatic offered 5” and 6” dust ports for this machine and perhaps they do. I never checked. This change I made was cheap and easy enough to make without modifying the machine.

Conclusions. I recommend the PJ-882HH 8” jointer, in spite of my somewhat negative comments. because overall it is a very nice piece of shop equipment. It produces silky smooth cuts while doing what a jointer is designed to do, flattening and straightening boards. It does so with just a hum, far quieter than the Craftsman and its straight knives. The machine is clearly well built and should last a long time. Renewing the edges of the inserts should be very doable when required. These are the overriding features important to me.

The biggest miss on this machine is the safety guard – not sure what Powermatic was thinking when designing the stepped cutter guard. The anti-scratch insert is a good idea poorly executed. I count the plastic insert problem among the common nuisances often encountered when setting up any new machine.

I believe an important feature of any machine is the ability to adjust the machine; this machine provides that capability. I am content that should I need to adjust the tables or service the cutter head, I will encounter no problems; just aggravation as with any machine.

View JBrow's profile


1368 posts in 1691 days

12 comments so far

View pintodeluxe's profile


6150 posts in 3584 days

#1 posted 04-26-2016 06:22 PM

Parallelogram beds are a great feature. I have enjoyed carefree use on my Delta DJ-20 8” jointer.
Now my only complaint is it’s only 8” wide! When I first upgraded from a 6” to an 8” jointer, the next stack of lumber I purchased was entirely 12” wide. Argghh.

I can see the reason behind that jointer guard design. It encourages you to move the fence toward the front for face jointing narrower boards. This way the left edge of even thin stock will contact the guard and it will work normally. If you leave the fence pushed all the way back for jointing narrow boards, the board will not contact the guard, which reminds you to pull the fence forward before making the cut.

Basically they want us to cover as much of the cutterhead as possible with the fence. I try to do that anyways, but I can see how the design would be an annoyance in some circumstances. I think if you get in the habit of sliding the fence forward, it should function normally.

Nice review, which I found quite detailed and informative. Thanks.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

9554 posts in 3099 days

#2 posted 04-27-2016 01:38 AM

Nice and thorough write up.

WRT the blade guard… try using a flexible magnetic strip… or use double sided adhesive to mount a flexible piece of plastic, like HDPE or UHMW.

Enjoy your new jointer. I’m jealous :^)

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

View JBrow's profile


1368 posts in 1691 days

#3 posted 04-27-2016 02:10 AM


I appreciate your cutter guard comment – thank you. After taking a closer look, it appears you are exactly correct. Powermatic, as you suggested, does recommend adjusting the fence to minimize the exposure of the cutter head. However, I made no connection of a properly functioning guard to the fence position when I first read the manual. Powermatic’s manual was silent regarding the importance of the fence adjustment in order to allow the cutter guard to function properly. It would have been nice if Powermatic Technical Support had made your point when I checked today and before I embarrassing myself here.

Re-looking at the cutter guard and the position where the cut-out begins, adjusting the fence for the narrowest cut possible allows the leading edge of the stock to fully contact the guard in front of the guard’s cut-out; swinging the guard out of the way.

What puzzles me are those circumstances when workpiece being face jointed is at an uneven thickness long its length. At the beginning of the cut, the guard will always swing out of the way. At some point in the cut, a thin section of the workpiece passes under the cut-out section of the cutter guard and the cutter guard springs toward the fence covering the workpiece. Everything remains good unless the workpiece’s thickness then increases as the cut continues. But then, as the stock gains in thickness, perhaps the guard makes contact with the edge of the advancing workpiece still on the in-feed table and pulls the guard back out of the way before any binding can occur. The cutter guard does seem to have some vertical play allowing it to “float” (apparently by design) and thereby perhaps preventing a bind.

After looking at your post, I face jointed a couple of boards with the fence adjusted as you suggested without the cardboard. The guard swung out of the way and stayed there until the thickness equaled that of the cut-out in the guard. At that point, the guard slide over the workpiece, but there were no problems. Perhaps I can get rid of the masking tape and cardboard by simply adjusting the fence and give Powermatic that fifth star I withheld.

View jawqn87's profile


26 posts in 3370 days

#4 posted 04-27-2016 03:33 PM

This is a very well written review and thank you very much for taking the time to post it. In regards to the blade guard there are a few very good points between JBrow and pintodeluxe. I have a 6” bench top unit that I hope to one day upgrade to an 8” unit with a helical head. However, if one does not have a helical head and just has straight knives, wouldn’t the need to adjust the fence to the front of the machine cause the front of the knives to dull first? Obviously, this isn’t a big problem with the helical heads, you just rotate the inserts that are dull but on straight knives I think it could cause an issue with uneven wearing. Even with my 6” jointer, I don’t run a lot of pieces that are 6” wide through the machine, so I am usually trying to use the full cutter head with the passes that I take, in order to “dull” the blades equally and evenly. On my Grizzly unit, the blade guard has a constant thickness on the leading edge of the blade guard. Just thinking out loud here, let me know any thoughts.

View JBrow's profile


1368 posts in 1691 days

#5 posted 04-28-2016 04:08 AM


Thank you for your comments.

Thanks to pintodeluxe’s insightful observations I removed the cardboard and did some face jointing. The guard worked fine by simply adjusting the fence to accommodate the width of the lumber.

Many times face jointing is done with lumber of differing widths. No doubt, and as you pint out, the cutter edges, whether knives or carbide inserts, will see more wear nearest the guard when face jointing since all boards, regardless of width, will pass over the cutters/knives near the guard (when the fence is adjusted for the narrowest practical cut). However, some balance of wear (which sounds like what you are doing) is possible during edge jointing. The fence can be positioned to expose the cutting edges infrequently used during face jointing operations. I would also think that by taking light cuts thereby putting less stress on the cutting edges would reduce the effects of differential wear across the length of the knives (by reducing wear overall). The effects from differential wear are probably further lessened if limited use of exotic and tropical woods is made. From what I understand, some of these woods can be hard on cutting edges.

There were a couple of reasons I wanted to go with the helical cutter head. The first was that the inserts were carbide, lengthening the time between refreshing cutting edges. The second was the anticipation of eliminating or significantly reducing lumber tear out. Until I actually used the helical cutter head, I worried that mill marks left by the cutter head would be more severe than with a straight knife. That fear was unfounded with this jointer. While I hated changing the straight knives on the Craftsman, I was and remain unconvinced that refreshing the edges of the helical inserts is “easier”; just different.

Manufacturers’ promotional literature suggests that “all you have to do” is simply rotate a cutter(s) to get refreshed edges. It is definitely much easier to rotate a few relatively new inserts that are nicked than replace 3 or 4 jointers knives. Unfortunately, refreshing the edges of the carbide inserts requires more effort than implied. Dust and debris can accumulate and prevent the inserts from seating properly if not cleaned away. I imagine this cleaning could require a nylon or even a brass brush and maybe some pitch remover. This debris can be found on either the insert or the cutter head, so both should be cleaned. Then each screw gets a light coat of oil. At this point, the inserts can be secured in place. With 54 cutters, this could take a while. It is also recommended that all inserts are rotated a one time, especially after some number of hours of use, since even the carbide wears and dimensions can change, affecting performance.

View RobWoodCutter's profile


117 posts in 4001 days

#6 posted 05-02-2016 06:26 PM

I have been using one since 2007. Great machine.

Use an air compressor to blow out the trapped saw dust when replacing/rotating the inserts.
I only rotate inserts that are clearly damaged as I discover them. The surface will be finished with a card scraper and sandpaper for minor annoyances so I don’t seek perfection straight from the jointer.

You can normally tell when it is time to rotate them, as it will feel like you are actually needing to use pressure to force the board across the cutter head.

-- Rob-Yorktown "Shop's still not done, Tools are bought, Wood is bought, need to find time to start a project.."

View Brian's profile


185 posts in 2802 days

#7 posted 05-13-2016 06:07 PM

I appreciate your review. Recently, a new PM 15HH was delivered to my shop, and this machine will likely be it’s partner before too long. I don’t know how I ever worked with the helical heads for so long. Having restored my 1950s PM50 last year, I’m having a hard time justifying the upgrade right now.

Good review, good information.

-- “Always take a banana to a party, bananas are good!” - Tenth Doctor

View Marty Backe's profile

Marty Backe

251 posts in 3543 days

#8 posted 05-13-2016 06:46 PM

Enjoyed the review and comments

View JBrow's profile


1368 posts in 1691 days

#9 posted 05-15-2016 02:44 AM


Thanks for the tips. I will try rotating only the few cutters when its time. That will probably be good enough and if I get the same results you report, great. If not, I can always finish rotating all 54 cutters with a lot more work.


Like you and as I attempted to say in the review, I think the helical cutter head (HH) is a great woodworking innovation. Unlike you, I am going in the opposite direction. I now have the jointer with the HH cutter head but not a planer. My next shop upgrade is to replace the straight knives on my Woodmaster 12” planer with the HH cutter head; hopefully before my next project. I am saving money now.

One thing to throw into the mix when trying to justify upgrading the restored jointer is safety. Even so, I admit, it would be hard for me to replace the restored PM50 with a new jointer. I am sure it is a great American made jointer. Perhaps a HH cutter head is made to fit the PM50. What I find with light cuts while face jointing is that the neoprene push pads do not slip on the new jointer unless fairly dirty; slipping MUCH less than when face jointing on the old Craftsman with its straight knives. Less slipping not only makes it easier to keep the board moving, but I think makes accidents less likely.


Thank you for the kind words and tips!

View ColoradoKerry's profile


4 posts in 1238 days

#10 posted 07-13-2017 02:26 AM

Just got a PJ882 and I agree with all the review comments. Super stable, seems like it has plenty of power, nicely packaged in that huge crate. Plastic fence insert on my jointer was adjusted/installed perfectly.

My tables were flat when I got them, to within the accuracy of my straightedge (.003 over 36”). I removed the adjustment levers with a cheap pulley puller and adjusted the cams to get the tables parallel also to within the accuracy of the straight edge. It’s a bit of back and forth but not particularly difficult. Lots of set screws! But it’s so much better to do this job on a parallelogram planer like this one, I always hated dealing with this on my older dovetail jointer. And in the end it’s perfect and stays that way.

I upgraded it with a Byrd head that I bought from Byrd. I didn’t get the Powermatic helical head because it’s so expensive – $800 from Powermatic but only ~$400 from Byrd. The replacement was actually pretty easy, took less than 1 hour. It is a thing of beauty. I agree that changing the inserts requires that you take care to clean things, I’ve had a few inserts on my 15”/Byrd planer break, possibly because of incorrect installation or chips/dust where it should be clean. The Byrd instructions with the head didn’t mention oil, might be interesting to try this.

Seems a bit of a pain to adjust the outfeed table just a tiny little bit, but since this happens infrequently it seems not a big deal. I haven’t had any issues with the notch in the guard but the installation and adjustment procedure is a bit hokey – swing the spring all the way around and then just slightly loosen the set screw to adjust the tension? It works, best that can be said for it.

The way I read the PM manual, they say to set the outfeed table exactly in line with the helical cutters, but a few thousandths lower for the straight cutters. This seemed to be a bit of a surprise from what I’ve read on this site and elsewhere but I figured I’d try it with the outfeed table that high. The cuts are perfect right now, I’ll be interested to see what happens after it’s seen a few hundred board feet. How did you adjust the table vs. the Byrd cutters?

-- Kerry, Colorado Springs

View JBrow's profile


1368 posts in 1691 days

#11 posted 07-13-2017 04:03 PM


Congratulations on the new jointer!

Outfeed Table Height Setting. I am not really sure how the outfeed table surface relative to top dead center of the carbide cutters on the helical cutter head is set. I started by setting the outfeed table to the same height as top dead center of the cutter using a straight edge. Then a board was dressed at the table saw to produce a pair of parallel edges. This test board was edge jointed several times. If snip existed on the last inch or so of the board, the outfeed table was raised ever so slightly and new test cuts made. If the leading edge of the board became narrower than the trailing edge of the board, then the outfeed table was lowered ever so slightly.

In the end, within the error of my measurements, I found that a board with initial parallel edges that is edge jointed several times retains those parallel edges.

The Guard. I hated the cardboard solution, so the cardboard that covered the cutter guard slot was removed. I then positioned the cutter guard as low as possible but ensuring that it swings without contacting the outfeed or infeed tables. This adjustment helped when dressing one face of 4/4 stock, but there is a point where the up-side of a board can still get rub against the guard’s cut out; it is now less frequent.

Question for you. It sounds as if you adjusted the tables to be co-planar. Since two pairs of set screws that lock the parallelogram mechanism are located under the small auxiliary table to which the cutter guard is attached, that auxiliary table must be removed to make the set screws accessible. However, my faint attempts to remove that auxiliary table were frustrated by my inability to fit a wrench over the nuts that secure the auxiliary table to the infeed and outfeed tables. How did you manage to loosen those nuts and remove that auxiliary table?

View ColoradoKerry's profile


4 posts in 1238 days

#12 posted 07-14-2017 04:15 AM


I’ll try your scheme to see what I come up with regarding the outfeed table height. I haven’t noticed any snipe but you are right that there might be a slight taper that I haven’t noticed. Boards slide nicely from the infeed to outfeed table without getting caught on the leading edge of the outfeed table, but again I might not notice a couple of thousandths.

I used an offset box end wrench to get those two bolts off for the aux table. I had cheap ones from Harbor Freight in my toolbox, that’s also where I got the pulley puller I used to remove the adjusting levers. I also removed the fence entirely, which is an easy job but the fence is a bit awkward to get back on by yourself. I had a 1/2” drive 1 1/4” socket (not sure why I had that) and a long breaker bar – for some reason I thought that the cams would be hard to turn but they turn easily. Unfortunately, the cams behind the levers cannot be adjusted with a socket so I just used a big adjustable wrench.

So when I adjusted the tables I had uncluttered, free access to both tables as well as an easy ability to see the straightedge from every angle. That’s nice since I look for light under the straightedge as well as using a feeler gauge.

-- Kerry, Colorado Springs

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics