Grizzly 8"x75" Deluxe Jointer Model G0586

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Review by RichClark posted 01-07-2009 01:37 AM 20993 views 1 time favorited 18 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Grizzly 8"x75" Deluxe Jointer Model G0586 Grizzly 8"x75" Deluxe Jointer Model G0586 Grizzly 8"x75" Deluxe Jointer Model G0586 Click the pictures to enlarge them

It Arrived Yesterday, The full Sized Freight Truck was coming and I had ran off to find some help to get it offloaded, when I got home it was in my garage! (I love my local UPS Freight!) Anyway Here goes.

The Jointer was packaged in 2 boxes. The HEAD/FENCE/ARMS in a wooden crate (Picture 1)
The BASE and the Power Switch in Box 2
Everything was intact and all parts (nuts, bolts etc) were inventoried and nothing was missing. It came with hex keys to adjust gimbals and Metric wrenches (for the assembly nuts etc) These weren’t stamped ones, the were “real” wrenches, I thought that was cool.

I rented a engine lift to get it out of the crate and over the base, that was pretty straight forward. I used a
Tie down rated for 1 ton, and figure-8 wrapped it as close to the cutter head as I could so as not to strain
the arms. Then it was a matter of jacking it up and moving the base under it. No worries. Three bolts
and it was stable and ready to get cleaned up.

To protect steel cut metal, (we all know is a lot of messy waxy grease) I used a Orange based degreaser to clean it
up, I followed the directions and removed the fence, cleaning up everything really well then reassembled it.

Installing the V-Belts was simple and frustrating. The motor mounts essentially on the slope of the dust chute.
The instructions called for loosening the 4 bolts, putting the V-belts on and letting the motor’s weight be the
force to set them. ( I may be to anal?) but I wasn’t happy with that and screwed around with it for, like an hour and decided to walk away from it.. I could get them tight, but then the motor was “wracked” and that is not good for bearings. I woke up this morning and went back in loosened the mount bolts again and just let the motor settle
and insured it was level and aligned with the cutter head. (reason for this remark is that its not a car, there is a bit of deflection following the instructions but the machine runs fine doing so)

The Electrical hookup consisted of mounting the Magnetic switch and the On/Off power arm.
You need to buy your own plug, a standard 240v 6-15 cost me 8 bucks and while I was there I rummaged and picked out the UGLIEST piece of Red Oak from the box store offcut bin (at the BORG Store).

The only issue is that the ground to the motor hookup required my son to stick his head inside to align the
the tiny screw to the motor housing, My eyes are horrid and I couldn’t see what I was doing in there.

Installed the Guard and checked and aligned the outfeed table to the head, checked and set the fence stops and was done. (about 2 hours out of the box to ready to play). (Picture 2 – hooked up to DC and ready to play)

Does it work
The cut off I found was about 4’x6”x3/4 and was bowed and had a slight cup. I pretended to myself
that it needed to be 5 1/2”x1/2” and was checking for snipe and square. (Picture 3) shows how it came out.
Its square and true and you hold it to the light the edges are shiny like a hand plane was used.

This is not a “Spiral” Cutter head model… When I got the “Kitchen Pass” to buy it, the OYMO (One you must obey) and I decided that when the cutters get dull a few times, well buy the Spiral head for it. Its interchangeable with the
head on it now.

Dust Collection
I have a Steel City 1.5HP mobile DC and after I cut up the bit of testing wood I pulled the Vacuum line and
there was “nothing” in it. There was very minor dust near the Safety “Pork chop” guard. In all I was very pleased!

I hope this is useful. I will reply as I can to any questions.


-- Duct Tape is the Force! It has a light side and a dark side and it Binds the Universe together!

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157 posts in 4238 days

18 comments so far

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Scott Bryan

27250 posts in 4630 days

#1 posted 01-07-2009 02:30 AM

This is a nice review, Rich. It looks like you have added a quality tool to your shop. I would like to move up to an 8” model and this one looks pretty good to me.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View PeteMoss's profile


214 posts in 4278 days

#2 posted 01-07-2009 03:49 AM

Thanks for the good review and congratulations on your newest tool. It looks like it should give you many many years of enjoyment.

-- "Never measure......cut as many times as necessary." - PeteMoss

View juniorjock's profile


1930 posts in 4573 days

#3 posted 01-07-2009 04:22 AM

Good review. You will have to deal with the grease on anything you get from Grizzly, but that’s better than rust. I have the 6”....... you’re making me with I ordered the 8”. Enjoy.

View GMoney's profile


158 posts in 4611 days

#4 posted 01-07-2009 07:36 PM

I already decided on this jointer a month or two ago. Had to curb my impulses until I made more money for extra purchases. It’s good to hear a nice review of my chosen machine. When I do get it, eight inches will be very nice I’m sure.

-- Greg, CT

View TimberMan's profile


115 posts in 4272 days

#5 posted 01-07-2009 09:55 PM

Congrats on the new toy. One day I too might have a toy like this. Nice review. I have been looking at the Griz. Keep us updated on any new feedback as you get more use from it.

View Built2Last's profile


234 posts in 4285 days

#6 posted 01-21-2009 12:05 AM

I got an email today saying mine is on it way. They had it on sale for $595.00 and I just couldn’t pass it up. I had just bought a Craftsman 3hp Radial Arm saw that I really didn’t need,( but it was a really good deal) so I’ve got it on ebay now. Can’t wait until mine gets here. May have to holler at you if I have any problems putting it together, if you don’t mind!!

View RichClark's profile


157 posts in 4238 days

#7 posted 01-21-2009 11:38 PM

Built, No worries unless you have a buddy or 2 or 4. To get it out of the crate I rented a Engine Hoist (it broke down and fit in the Wife’s Exploder). I had a towing strap and figure-8’ed that under the arms as close to the cutter head as I could and plucked it out and then gently set it down. Rest was cake! If I get a notification message Ill try to reply quickly


-- Duct Tape is the Force! It has a light side and a dark side and it Binds the Universe together!

View BassBully's profile


261 posts in 4905 days

#8 posted 02-10-2009 07:52 AM

I’m glad you like your G0586. I’m not very satisfied with mine. I have just started using my joiner and I’m very frustrated with it because it’s not squaring my boards—there’s a gap between the boards when brought together.

I’ve attempted shimming the out feed table but it’s very touchy. One moment it will be aligned but when I tighten the hold down screw it gets out of alignment. I’ve tried messing with the gibbs but that’s seems to increase the probability that I can’t get it aligned.

I’m currently trying to find someone that I can pay (hopefully cheap) to set it up for me because I’m so frustrated with this thing.

-- There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't!

View RichClark's profile


157 posts in 4238 days

#9 posted 02-10-2009 06:29 PM

Sorry to hear your having issues. Can you elaborate on the issue with the “gap” that sounds more like your Fence is not 90 to the outfeed table. When I set up my cut I did the “straight edge” thing with the cutter head, But that usually only gets me “close” I then get a piece of scrap and near the edge I mark it with a bunch of pencil loops. Then I run the Jointer with the Infeed almost all the way up (removing barly nothing) and I crank up the outfeed table until the board feeding into it hits the edge of the Out feed table. Then I slowly lower it until I cant hit it anymore, Then lock it down. I make sure the machine is level with a 6 foot bubble level to ensure the outfeed is flat back to front and side to side. Then I set the fence with my 90 Bevel and after that you should not have to adjust that side of the table again.

Hope this helps, If not call Customer Service they are payed to help ya.. Might be something bad oout of the box.


-- Duct Tape is the Force! It has a light side and a dark side and it Binds the Universe together!

View BassBully's profile


261 posts in 4905 days

#10 posted 02-11-2009 04:17 PM

The fence is 90 degrees to the outfeed table. The problem is that it is nearly impossible to get the infeed and outfeed tables on a straight plane. What is happening is after I plane my boards, I can put the two together and there is a gap in between them—I can see light through them. This is not acceptable for any jointer. I’ve tried and tried to correct this.

Here’s the scenario. While the outfeed table is top dead center to the knives, I position the infeed table so that the edge closest to outfeed is on coplane with the outfeed table. However, when I bridge my straight edge over the two tables, there is at least a .01” gap below the straight edge because one of the tables needs shimmed. If I don’t shim it, the board will be planed with a bow (convex shape) in the middle so the twp pieces brought together will rock. This isn’t good if your planing 4ft boards because it equates to almost an 1/8” gap at the end.

So, I attempt to shim this thing by putting a .005” shim (the smallest I have) on the outfeed table so that the end of the outfeed table will come down. It does but way too far. Then, I get a concave gap in the middle.

On top of that, adjusting this thing every time does not produce consistent results which is the most irritating thing in the world. For example, if I go through the process as described above, sometimes it will create a convex effect and sometimes it will be concave when you’ve adjusted it to be just the opposite.

The problem lies somewhere with the gibs. If I don’t tighten the gibs enough, when I align the outfeed table, the locking nut brings the table down in the middle which brings it out of alignment. If I tighten the gibs, this prevents this but it also seems to defeat the use of my shims. Again, the opposing results I’m getting from aligning this is the most frustrating thing.

I found a website with a guy who is having the same problem: Again, I’m trying to find someone local who has more experience at this then I do and can come to my house to look at it. So, I’m going to contact my local woodworking club, I know there’s a few people there that can help me. If they can’t even get it adjusted, I wouldn’t recommend this joiner.

-- There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't!

View BassBully's profile


261 posts in 4905 days

#11 posted 02-13-2009 07:35 AM

I finally got it. First, I broke down and created a “straight edge” by taking 3 – 5” x 45” mdf pieces. I screwed three screws in each at the same intervals apart so when the boards are brought together, the screws will touch. I’ll skip the details to keep this short but you have to adjust the screws by putting the three boards together in a particular order. This creates a straight line amongst the screws.

Also, I had to find .002” brass shims which isn’t easy in my area. In fact, our local Woodsmith store who sells about 5 different types of joiners doesn’t carry these shims. Go figure. I actually found them at a hole-in-the wall hardware store.

Having the .002” shims and the straight edge made a real difference. The joiner is fine now in my book; however, I will have to say that there is too much play when adjusting the gibs. I had to be meticulous when setting the gibs so they wouldn’t throw it too far out of alignment. I called Grizzly about this and they told me that I may have to take the gib-way out of that side of the table and clean it. For a new joiner? My way worked fine at the end, If it ever comes out of alignment again, I’ll do that.

-- There are three types of people in the world, those who can count and those who can't!

View RichClark's profile


157 posts in 4238 days

#12 posted 02-14-2009 02:57 AM

Glad your were able to square it away. Makes ya wonder if there is a metal goober in the gib opposite side that is throwing it out of whack somehow. I am taking the French Polishing class that was in the want adds. It starts this weekend.. and I am gathering my “school Materials” gonna be soo coooooooooooooool.. Ill blog it I think. Its kinda derailed my shop time.. on the weekends cept getting materials for the class ready.. well see.

take care

-- Duct Tape is the Force! It has a light side and a dark side and it Binds the Universe together!

View Todd A. Clippinger's profile

Todd A. Clippinger

8901 posts in 4907 days

#13 posted 02-14-2009 03:08 AM

You should be real happy with the 8” model. It will allow you to face joint most lumber that you buy anymore.

I have the G0543 which has the spiral head cutter and love it. It allows me to joint highly figured wood with no tear-out.

I think you will love the capacity of this machine. It will certainly never be underpowered, even for face jointing to full capacity.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana,

View mmh's profile


3680 posts in 4530 days

#14 posted 02-15-2009 05:47 PM

Very nice! I’ve been eyeing the 6” version with indexed blades and have read quite a few positive reviews of their power tools.

-- "They who dream by day are cognizant of many things which escape those who dream only by night." ~ Edgar Allan Poe

View RichClark's profile


157 posts in 4238 days

#15 posted 01-28-2010 01:41 AM

G, Its still perfect in my mind I have not had an issue with it at all. I used it to true all the wood for the
bench I bloged about. I am making a “Linen” closet for my wife and used it to plan up 8 foot pine for edge gluing and they are tight and perfect. So I am all in on this jointer it works perfectly for what I need it to do and I still havn’t needed to sharpen or readjust the blades. Maybe 900BF thru it so far.

-- Duct Tape is the Force! It has a light side and a dark side and it Binds the Universe together!

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