Ridgid JP0610 Jointer/Planer

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Review by ferstler posted 10-12-2008 06:13 PM 59654 views 5 times favorited 35 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Ridgid JP0610 Jointer/Planer Ridgid JP0610 Jointer/Planer No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

OK, before I purchased the JP0610 I owned a 30-inch Delta JT160 tabletop jointer/planer. (Shown to the right in the wider-angle photo.) I still have the thing and now store it on a shelf where it can be quickly hauled out onto my shop’s workdeck for rough-and-tumble work that does not involve longer boards.

The 45-inch-bed Ridgid JP unit has replaced it as a precision tool (some have complained of table alignment problems, but mine seems perfect in that respect), and of course the new unit has a built-in stand. It is a pretty basic jointer/planer, with outfeed table star wheel and lock screws for that end of the cast-iron table assembly and a hand crank to allow for quick adjustment of the infeed table. The table tops are very well finished and I found no misalignment issues once I had the unit assembled. Assembly itself was rather simple, and the fence was also perfectly aligned (leveled) and went into place with no hangups. The assembled machine weighs a tad more than 200 pounds.

The manual is pretty good about dealing out instructions, but I do recommend making sure that the two pullies are not only set up properly in terms of vertical tension but are also parallel to each other and in front-to-rear alignment. The manual mentions the vertical alignment requirement but does not mention the parallelism issue. Adjustments for in/out alignment can be made by moving either the motor or the table assembly, but adjustments for parallelism can only be made by moving the motor before tightening the motor-mount screws. Only basic hand tools are needed to assemble the tool. The tool also came with a comprehensive parts breakdown list, typical with Ridgid tools.

The manual suggests mounting the motor with the assembly flipped upside down, but it also mentions that tensioning the belt can also be done with the assembly rightside up – using gravity to do the tensioning. I followed the latter suggestion, but one must remember that the motor is heavy enough to put too much tension on the belt. Care must be applied to get the belt deflection to the 1-inch point the manual suggests.

I modify nearly all of my tools, and this one was no exception. The amount of “editing” was more than what I did with the Ridgid sliding compound miter saw I will review elsewhere and considerably less than what I did with the company’s band saw, also slated to be reviewed by me.

First, I installed it on a mobile wooden platform under the unit’s metal stand. (See photo.) This helped to stiffen up the entire lower assembly. The platform sits on 4-inch wheels, each of which can swivel. Doing this not only allows me to move the unit out onto my shop’s outdoor workdeck but also gets the cast-iron table surface 6 inches further off of the floor. I like my worksurfaces to be rather high up. To stablize the base when using the tool I built two large wooden “chocks” that I can push under one end of the platform to keep the unit solidly against the floor at four contact points and from moving about as I slide workpieces along the table. Note that for maximum tipping resistance the base had to be large enough for the wheel contact points to be outboard of the stand contact points.

Second, the motor mounts to oval-shape cutouts in the bottom of the dust chute. The motor chassis does not cover the holes completely, which will allow woodchips to drop into the motor area. To combat this I put pieces of clear packing tape over the cutouts inside of the dust chute after mounting the motor. This reduces the amount of dust dropping onto the motor itself.

Third, I initially replaced the stock belt with one that I picked up at an auto parts store. I did the same thing with my 14-inch Ridgid band saw (also reviewed on this review site), but in the case of the jointer/planer the belt that came with the product was not as weird as the one that came with the saw. Indeed, the stock belt seemed reasonably well made, but it still seemed a tad too stiff for my taste and for a while at least that much more flexible (and American made) segmented belt remained installed. However, I later on went back to the stock belt, because that flexible and segmented automotive grade belt I tended to oscillate too much, generating its own weird vibrations to the chassis.

Fourth, the unit has a four-inch dust port on the left side of the stand. (The port assembly can be removed so that gravity can pull chips down the square chute to the floor if one cares to do things that way.) All of my other tools have ports that are 2.5 inches or smaller, so my dust-collector device (which is simple, uses no bag, and simply blasts dust out into my “natural” yard area) has a 4-inch to 2.5-inch adaptor solidly attached to the end of the 4-inch hose. To facilitate the use of this adaptor I installed a similar adaptor to the 4-inch port on the jointer. The reduced air flow from the neck-down configuration has not resulted in dust piling up inside of the tool’s dust chute.

Finally, the unit has two vertical cutouts on one end of the metal stand (the end opposite the dust-port) where one can store the two push blocks that came with it. When in place they tend to rattle and so I store them on a shelf next to where the device is parked when it is inside of my small shop. To make use of the two cutouts I installed a very solid wooden handle that lets me more easily manhandle the unit out onto the deck. I can do this by grasping the table assembly, of course, but I prefer to not use that part of the jointer as a handle. The added handle works fine and there is more than enough clearance between it and the outfeed table crank.

I like this jointer/planer. It runs smooth and cuts true. It is easy to adjust and after running through dozens of feet of wood the blades still seem dangerously sharp. I ordered spare blades from Ridgid ($10 bucks apiece for three, a not-bad price) and will use them when honing the blades that came with the unit no longer is viable.

Certainly a jointer/planer with a longer bed would work better with longer boards than the 45-inch Ridgid, but it would probably be so heavy that I could not wrestle it out onto my workdeck. It would also cost more. The Ridgid unit was listed at $399 at Home Depot but I talked to a clerk about that price (up from the $349 it had been a few months before), and he knocked it back down to $349. I think they are selling the thing for $450 these days.

Howard Ferstler

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342 posts in 4291 days

35 comments so far

View bbqking's profile


328 posts in 4494 days

#1 posted 10-12-2008 09:11 PM

Congratulations. I own the same planer and totally agree with the 5 star rating. It is a shop workhorse and I have never had any trouble with it since straight from the box. I own other Ridgid equipment and this seems to always to be the case. They always work great. Note- I had mine moved over 1000 miles by a relocation firm, carted all over the east coast on its way to Georgia, carried around the house and into the basement shop. When I had it where I wanted it, I plugged it in and ran a board through. No adjustment necessary. Amazing. bbqKing.

-- bbqKing, Lawrenceville

View bayouman's profile


94 posts in 4436 days

#2 posted 10-14-2008 05:31 AM

I agree with the bbqking. Mine is an excellent machine and it gets a sizable amount of work. I buy almost all of my material in the rough and mill it to what I need. I couldn’t do that without my Ridgid joiner. It has already saved me enough money to pay for itself.

View Emeralds's profile


143 posts in 4333 days

#3 posted 10-15-2008 02:08 AM

I too own the same the jointer and it’s been a great asset to my shop. I would also rate it as 5 star unit.

-- JMP

View laflaone's profile


59 posts in 4451 days

#4 posted 10-16-2008 03:26 AM

I may sound like a broken record, but I have the same jointer, and I love it. My base is similar: A piece of MDF to match the jointer base, then two 2×4’s which extend out 3” or so on each side, then rollers. It raises the jointer up to a decent height, and eliminates the problem of it being tippy. Only one complaint. The blade guard will allow something slightly under 3/4” to slide under it. Now, I would be uncomfortable jointing something 1/2” on less, but there still is a lot of dimensioned lumber that could stand a bit of jointing and planing. I have solved the problem, but I am afraid OSHA would come after me if I revealed how.

-- "non illegitimis carborundum"

View mot's profile


4927 posts in 4807 days

#5 posted 10-16-2008 03:15 PM

Nice review. I have the same jointer and have had good use from it.

-- You can discover more about a person in an hour of play than in a year of conversation. (Plato)

View kansas's profile


165 posts in 4472 days

#6 posted 10-19-2008 01:54 AM

I bought mine from a outlet store selling reconditioned tools. I got it for $270 but it needed a belt, the nut for the big bolt that tightens the fence was gone and the key for the switch was also missing. I’m a cheapskate so I made do. It seems to have a bit of a table concern if you set the fence close to the guard. I’ve fiddled with it a lot and can’t seem to make it any better. Someday I hope to replace it with a better machine but the price was right and it’s did a lot of work.

View MikeGCNY's profile


44 posts in 4266 days

#7 posted 10-31-2008 09:34 PM

I was at HD last night and noticed this jointer is on sale for $301.00. I had a 10% off coupon and picked it up for $270.00 plus tax.

Setup was a breeze, and it seems to be fairly well aligned out of the box. I did have one issue lining up the bolt holes of the motor support and the base.

Just bring someone with you to pick it up. I was alone when I noticed it on sale and had to wrestle it onto a cart and lift it into my car.

View Thos. Angle's profile

Thos. Angle

4444 posts in 4733 days

#8 posted 11-15-2008 09:21 PM

Me too. I just wish it was 12 inches wide and had a 9 foot table.

-- Thos. Angle, Jordan Valley, Oregon

View glassyeyes's profile


137 posts in 4100 days

#9 posted 05-23-2009 04:06 AM

I have to give it five thumbs up, too! (My wife tells me I’m all thumbs, but she exaggerates.) I don’t have a first-class straightedge, but the infeed and outfeed tables seemed quite flat, and parallel. The only adjustment I had to make was to raise the outfeed table a few thousandths to match the blades. It does seem to spew a bit of dust, but a better dust collector (next on my list) may improve that. I had the Delta benchtop, but the fence simply flexed too much, the aluminum makes it hard to use magnetic-based gauges, and setting the knives was fairly finicky work.

-- Now, where did I put those bandaids?

View Chris Lawrence's profile

Chris Lawrence

5 posts in 4005 days

#10 posted 07-22-2009 05:56 PM

I just bought this same jointer last night. I’m wondering if you could provide more pix and details of your mobile base.


-- - you mean I have to set up each and every new tool I buy?

View ferstler's profile


342 posts in 4291 days

#11 posted 07-22-2009 07:12 PM

Hi, Chris,

The photo I posted shows pretty much all of the details count. Note that in the picture the wood-colored items on the wooden stand and under the planer base are movable “chocks” that I use to wedge/stabilize the base when the unit is in use. I store them in that area.

First, I built a rectangular frame out of 2×4 sections and then screwed and glued a piece of 3/4 inch plywood to the top of that frame. The resulting frame/plywood base is maybe 3-4 inches wider and longer than the outer footprint of the planer base. I painted the thing with a grey, fast-drying primer, and (after the paint dried) I then screwed 4-inch, 125-pound rated, soft-tire wheels underneath to the four corners. I previously had used 3-inch, hard-tire wheels, but they were just too awkward handling and bounced the unit too much on my wooden deck outside. The 4-inchers allow for much easier rolling than those 3 inchers and glide smoothly. Then, I just screwed the metal planer base to the top of the wood stand using thick wood screws driven down through the same holes on the bottom tips that normally would use the adjustable feet that came with the unit, and through the plywood and into the 2×4s. I had a buddy of mine help me hoist the assembled planer onto the stand before doing the screw work.

Job done.

PS: it is important to have the vertical wheel axes be at the same point or a bit outside of the ends of the stand legs where they hit the stand. Otherwise, the assembly will have a tendency to tip too easily. If I had it to do over again I would have built the wooden bass a couple of inches wider and longer to get better stability. What I have now is fine, however.

Howard Ferstler

View Chris Lawrence's profile

Chris Lawrence

5 posts in 4005 days

#12 posted 07-22-2009 07:27 PM

Hello Howard,

Thank you so much for your help with this. That’s a pretty through description and I am looking forward to taking your advice on building this base.


-- - you mean I have to set up each and every new tool I buy?

View KTMM (Krunkthemadman)'s profile

KTMM (Krunkthemadman)

1058 posts in 3964 days

#13 posted 08-28-2009 03:03 PM

I got this jointer yesterday at the North Jackson (MS) store for 214.00 I have a store near me, but they were sold out two days ago after marking the unit down to 321.00 I don’t know if they’ve lowered the price that much or if they’re closing it out. Just thought I’d post so you guys might can make your local store price match…...

I would have put the thing together last night, but I was too busy putting my new table saw together.

-- Practice does not make perfect. Only perfect practice makes perfect. Vince Lombardi

View GuyK's profile


356 posts in 4850 days

#14 posted 09-13-2009 01:27 PM

I just bought this jointer. It is a great addition to my shop. Well made and easy to put together. Only caution I would have for anyone buying it is that in the assembly directions it tells you to get help to lift it. I didn’t and pulled some muscles. So pay attention to the directions. As for the machine it self the tables are aligned and near perfect. The power is great. I was very inpressed with the quality of the fit. I also bought the Ridgid oscilating sander (spelling) another great tool.

I was also thinking of building a mobile base for it, so off I went to HF for some wheels. When in HF I noticed they had “Furniture Dollys ” for $ 16.99, they hold 1000lbs so I bought one of those instead of buying wheels and having to come home and build one. Works perfectly.

-- Guy Kroll

View a1Jim's profile


118065 posts in 4348 days

#15 posted 09-13-2009 10:32 PM

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