New And Improved Stumpy Nubs Box joint Jig

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Review by fl13 posted 08-17-2014 11:43 PM 8920 views 4 times favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch
New And Improved Stumpy Nubs Box joint Jig New And Improved Stumpy Nubs Box joint Jig No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

Recently I purchased plans from the Stumpy Nubs Website for his improved Box Joint jig. $10.00.
I spent the better part of a Saturday putting it together despite some confusing instructions, not a big deal, still managed to construct a working jig, just using the photos .
I have built other jigs in the past and have constructed a few Beehives . (bees have a way of fixing sloppy joints), still I wanted to construct some small boxes with tighter and more accurate joints.
This jig does the trick. Simple to use, no cranking a handle and forgetting the number of the turns.
Jig uses a section of 3/8 16tpi threaded rod which is secured on the jig, does not turn except for fine tuning. A large modified spring clamp with a short section of a 3/8 inch coupler which is sliced in half is used to determine the width of the joint. Using a rule as guide which is attached to both the movable front fence and the base fence , very accurate and repeatable 1/8 to 3/4 inch or larger box joints.
I did modify the jig a bit, 3/4 inch Baltic instead of 1/2 inch on the sliding fence, actually mine is built with the 1/2 inch ply , I then added 3/4 inch ply to the 1/2 so that I could install t-trak to the sliding fence, this being done to utilize the t-trak hold down jigs for clamping.
Very easy to use.
Very easy to set-up.
Very easy to make adjustments.


-- Fred

View fl13's profile


6 posts in 2161 days

9 comments so far

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 3466 days

#1 posted 08-18-2014 12:07 AM

Fred, Very impressive build. I have the Stumpy plans but not the talent/intelligence to utilize them!

Edit: Just looked at your profile and saw that you built your own 16” bandsaw! You are definitely a very talented guy!

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View fl13's profile


6 posts in 2161 days

#2 posted 08-18-2014 09:37 AM

Thanks for your comments, the box joint jig was actually fairly easy to construct. Stumpys instructions are a bit confusing. The main thing is DO NOT glue down the rod!!. It just sits in the routed dado and is fixed at both ends. The rod is used for fine adjustments and the modified spring clamp has a 3/8 inch x 1 inch rod connector which has been cut in half lengthwise. I used a cheap tile saw with a diamond blade to cut it lengthwise rather than a hacksaw.
this jig works by establishing a zero start cut position on the sled. Once established I glued a section of rule from a tape ruler on the sliding fence and in front of the threaded rod, also a section of rule was glued to the stationary fence.
to cut a 1/8 inch joint, you release the clamp and move the fence over 1/4 inch. Make the next cut and repeat.
main thing is that your dado set must be shimmed to an accurate width. 1/8th is easy, but widths such as 1/ 2 must be exactly 1/2. Clamping your workpiece is absolutely necessary, hence the use of the ttrak and hold downs. Still fiddling around with the jig just to figure out the nuances of it. If your wood is accurately square, clamped tightly in the jig and your first cut is at your zero position, the jig makes good joints that are very tight. Use a backer board !!
The rule is used only to line up the cuts. My zero postion is always at the beginning of an inch mark on both rules, when advancing to the next cut, just move your fence 1/4 of an inch if you are making 1/8. Inch joints.
also use 3/4 inch baltic or furniture grade ply for your jig. The ttrak sliding dovetail bar is very easy to install and works great.
Hope this helps

-- Fred

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 3466 days

#3 posted 08-18-2014 01:45 PM

Thanks Fred.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View StumpyNubs's profile


7811 posts in 3576 days

#4 posted 08-18-2014 04:09 PM

Thanks for the review, glad you like it!

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' most unique publications:

View helluvawreck's profile


32122 posts in 3642 days

#5 posted 08-18-2014 06:45 PM

That will be a great addition to your shop, Fred. Welcome to Lumberjocks.

helluvawreck aka Charles

-- helluvawreck aka Charles,

View Woodknack's profile


13395 posts in 3156 days

#6 posted 08-20-2014 06:36 AM

I like the “no cranking” idea.

-- Rick M,

View paul1474's profile


45 posts in 2419 days

#7 posted 01-15-2015 11:44 AM

Fred, I just finished my jig. I am going to use self adhesive ruler for my scale. Do I need to use rulers on both pieces of the plexiglas to get good accurate cuts? I also added t-track like you did.

View NKYKelly's profile


7 posts in 2097 days

#8 posted 01-15-2015 04:01 PM

Thanks for this review Fred. It made me slow down and rethink my build. For one thing, this made me discover that Stumpy produced an update that suggested using the Toggle Clamp for the Locking mechanism. That was a great upgrade IMO. Like you, I still had to brace it to remove the wiggle, but it’s much easier to lock and unlock and slide the jig into position. In fact, my 8 Year Old Daughter was the Toggle Clamp operator while I made the cuts. We cut into quite a rhythm and were able to produce the joins for a 5” tall box in just a couple of minutes.

My quick review:
Solid and unique design and I recommend it. The concept is a strong one and the plans can produce a very usable jig. IMO, Stumpy falls short in the follow-through and completeness. The plan needs a Setup and Use section or at a minimum a follow-up video demonstrating setup and use.


Here’s my complete review:

-- NKYKelly

View fl13's profile


6 posts in 2161 days

#9 posted 01-16-2015 02:28 AM

Paul1474, in answer to your question about the adhesive ruler the answer is ” yes.” I place the fence next to the cut line on the sled, this should be to the left edge of the dado cut out on the sled. My ruler at that point indicates 7 inches on the top plexiglass. I would afix the bottom adhesive rule so that a whole number mark lines up with the 7 inch mark. Since you are sliding the carriage to the left after every cut. It is easier if both rulers are started at a whole number and not for example a fraction ( 7 and 1/4 ). The 7 inch mark on the top plexiglass was chosen by myself because it is to the right of the clamp block which blocks sight of the bottom ruler. The main thing is that in order to do repetitive accurate cuts, its easier if the beginning cut is at set always started at a whole number . Depending on how you affix your 2 rulers, the number could be at 5 , 6 , 7 etc inches, the bottom ruler could be any number, the main point is that as you slide the fence to the left , that it lines up with the top number. In fact you could eliminate the top ruler and just make a starting mark , 1/ 2 inch dado, line the mark up with the number on the bottom ruler and move it 1 inch for a 1/2 inch joint.

-- Fred

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