R4512 Table Saw Assembly tip - Lubrication / Table Cleaning

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Review by basset7 posted 12-11-2013 05:48 PM 13742 views 2 times favorited 16 comments Add to Favorites Watch
R4512 Table Saw Assembly tip - Lubrication / Table Cleaning No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

I recently purchased and assembled a Home Depot Ridgid R4512 table saw. I took my time assembling the saw and enlisted help (it’s heavy). I have two suggestions during assembly. One – while the saw is upside down and before you attached the dust chute and base legs, lubricate the gear shafts of both the bevel and up/down adjustments. My saw had minimal grease. Easy to do at this stage – not so sure later.

Two – to get rid of the nasty oil film from factory on the table top. Remove the plastic film covering. I used a product called Brakclean – used to clean disk brake parts from oil and grease during assembly. No film leftover. Table surface absolutely clean. Will wax soon.

Assembly complete the saw passed the nickel test ( a nickel standing on edge didn’t fall over during power up /down), and with a new 80 tooth Diablo blade – the blade is within 0.002” up / down.

First project – hardwood floor repair pieces. This saw is MARVELOUS!! No problems at all. Cuts better than I dreamed.

I hope you find this helpful

View basset7's profile


1 post in 2685 days

16 comments so far

View b2rtch's profile


4921 posts in 4105 days

#1 posted 12-11-2013 11:36 PM

Grease under a table saw is not a good idea as it accumulates dust where you do not want it.
You are better off leaving everything dry.
It may cause you problems later on.
If anything use a dry lubricant like drymoly.

-- Bert

View Tedstor's profile


1691 posts in 3690 days

#2 posted 12-11-2013 11:55 PM

Yep. Grease is a bad idea. I use motorcycle chain lube (drylube).

Did you check this saw for blade alignment? These saws are famous for becoming misaligned when you raise/lower the blade.

View Dusty56's profile


11863 posts in 4745 days

#3 posted 12-12-2013 01:46 AM

Grease not good idea in this area. It will collect sawdust and chips and cause difficulty turning the gears/shafts down the road, and may accumulate at the 45 and 90 stops , throwing your adjustments off.

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View ic3ss's profile


399 posts in 3834 days

#4 posted 12-12-2013 02:17 AM

Way back when I rode off road motorcycles, I used to use this spray on chain lube that was wax based, the idea being that dirt would not stick to it. Find it at any motorcycle shop. My suggestion though is to clean off your new grease and leave it. Let the sawdust provide some lube. I left my Unisaw trunions and crank screws all dry after I rebuilt it a few years ago with no issues.


-- "I am endeavoring, ma'am, to construct a mnemonic memory circuit using stone knives and bear skins."

View ic3ss's profile


399 posts in 3834 days

#5 posted 12-12-2013 02:19 AM

Ok, I just read Tedster’s post. Yep, dry lube is the stuff. If you have to put something on it I would try that. But unless it’s making noise I still would leave it dry.

-- "I am endeavoring, ma'am, to construct a mnemonic memory circuit using stone knives and bear skins."

View b2rtch's profile


4921 posts in 4105 days

#6 posted 12-12-2013 10:45 AM

I use dry molikote a graphite based lubricant, very good

Product Name:
Dow Corning Molykote D-321 R Dry Film Lubricant Black 312 g Aerosol
Dow Corning Molykote D 321 R Anti-friction Coating is an air-curing dry lubricant with high ageing resistance. For metal/metal combinations with slow to medium fast movements and high loads. Improving the running-in process and for lubrication under high vacuum and at extreme temperatures. 312 g Aerosol.

-- Bert

View garbonsai's profile


154 posts in 3013 days

#7 posted 12-13-2013 04:13 PM

I’ll second the wax-based chain lubricant. You can pick it up at almost any bike (bicycle) shop—”White Lightning” is probably the most popular brand. In any event, you squirt it on, the carrier evaporates (rather quickly—10 to 15 minutes should do it) and leaves wax behind. Same principle as using a candle on a door hinge, except the liquid gets into all the nooks and crannies. I used it when I tore my Craftsman apart and removed twenty-five odd years of dust and pitch. Now, two years later, and it still raises and lowers and tilts like a dream.

-- Do not taunt Happy Fun Ball.

View Grumpymike's profile


2480 posts in 3372 days

#8 posted 12-13-2013 06:05 PM

+1 on the dry lube … also available in a spray can is the RV slide dry lube … look in the RV section at Wally World.
Used it about four years ago on mine, still working smoothly.

-- Grumpy old guy, and lookin' good Doin' it. ... Surprise Az.

View Todd's profile


421 posts in 2734 days

#9 posted 12-13-2013 09:40 PM

Make sure when you raise the blade on this saw you back off a little else the blade will be misaligned. Other than that I have had no problems with this saw. I have had it a few months and double check my alignment occasionally. No problems.

-- Todd, Huntsville, AL

View lumberjoe's profile


2902 posts in 3305 days

#10 posted 12-14-2013 12:12 AM

Make sure when you raise the blade on this saw you back off a little else the blade will be misaligned

This statement makes no sense at all. There are issues with some of these saws, but it cannot be fixed. When attempting to raise or lower the blade, it will come out of alignment. You don’t even need to turn the scews – just a little pressure on the adjustment wheel will trigger it.

To check for this, clamp a straight edge very close to but not touching the gullet (flat part) of the blade toward the front. Loosen the adjustment lock and attempt to raise or lower the blade. If it moves toward or away from your straight edge, you have a $500.00 cast iron workbench that is great for sharpening chisels/irons as well as a nice flat surface for your parallel clamps. If it doesn’t move, you have a decent contractor saw.


View NormG's profile


6508 posts in 4061 days

#11 posted 12-14-2013 01:05 AM

I agree dry parts, grease will make more issues that you can think of, or want to

-- Norman - I never never make a mistake, I just change the design.

View Todd's profile


421 posts in 2734 days

#12 posted 12-16-2013 09:25 PM

Joe, I’ll agree that there are saws with the fatal flaw. My saw cuts great, however. I have a digital caliper and I can tell you when I raise the blade it moves slightly out of alignment. If I back off a little it returns to normal, so it makes sense to me. Sorry if it doesn’t make sense to you.

-- Todd, Huntsville, AL

View Armandhammer's profile


235 posts in 2683 days

#13 posted 12-17-2013 01:10 AM

Will Ridgid cover the saw if it has the issue? Anyone know how often this issues occurs? Is it something that’s there from day one or does it happen over time with use? I assume the saw is not assembled in the box enough to test it prior to walking out of the store?

View rg33's profile


83 posts in 3059 days

#14 posted 12-17-2013 01:40 AM

Another satisfied customer of the R4512 here. Have had mine for over a year and have made all sorts of cuts with the blade up/down and random angles and no problems so far. The comments from above are likely from people who’ve gotten duds I think. Like any other saw out there its important to spend time during assembly to make sure everything is lined up correctly. I spent several hours getting mine assembled and lined up (its trunions are mounted on the tabletop so it takes a bit more time) but once I got it setup correctly (less than .002” parallel to fence etc) all was good…

View Todd's profile


421 posts in 2734 days

#15 posted 12-17-2013 11:09 PM

rg33, I have had no problems either. I tested arbor runout and it was fine. I got my blade aligned within 0.001 and the fence to 0.003. I’ve had no problems with straight cuts, burning or anything. Of course, I replaced the blade with a nice Freud.

-- Todd, Huntsville, AL

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