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Review by JHIM posted 12-07-2013 09:55 PM 12148 views 0 times favorited 13 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Average rating: 4.0
1 review total
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JET JCS-10 No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

All together a press solid table saw. I have been looking for a while and come across this one. He added a 30” fence rail ,had it dialed in extremely tight. feather boards galore ,push sticks, home aid router attachment ,and Two cross cut sleds..i still have my eye open for another one just because the 2HP is lacking power..or maybe I just need to break down and but a high dollar blade? Any thoughts or recommendations?

All together I give it s B+

(image off google)

-- "the hard jobs will take a while..the impossible will take a bit longer"

View JHIM's profile


124 posts in 2621 days

13 comments so far

View CharlesA's profile


3443 posts in 2644 days

#1 posted 12-07-2013 11:39 PM

I’d buy a good blade before buying a new table saw. I know that thin kerf blades are recommended for 1.5 hp saws—would be worth trying here. I’m very happy with thin kerf Freud rip blade adn a thin kerf DeWalt all purpose blade.

Especially worth it if the blade is used. Could be dull.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View BigAl98's profile


231 posts in 3885 days

#2 posted 12-08-2013 12:19 AM

I’ve found most of the saw is in the motor… you’ll spend a pretty penny for a 3 hp or larger motor.

-- Al,Midwest -To thine own self be true

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 3536 days

#3 posted 12-08-2013 01:33 AM

Try the Freud Diablo blades (I use a 40 and a 24 tooth in my 2HP saw and have no complaints). They are inexpensive but I have mine resharpened and they cut better than new.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Woodknack's profile


13470 posts in 3226 days

#4 posted 12-08-2013 02:54 AM

Probably just need a sharp blade, high dollar or not.

You should use a picture of your saw rather than a picture of someone else’s.

-- Rick M,

View jeff's profile


1239 posts in 4311 days

#5 posted 12-08-2013 04:19 AM

I think a new thin kerf blade would be in order,for any saw really…It helped my Rigid 4512…

-- Jeff,Tucson,Az.

View NormG's profile


6506 posts in 3850 days

#6 posted 12-08-2013 09:04 PM

Go for the sharp and/or new blade first. If the saw itself is not letting you perform tasks you need, then replace the saw. However, you will still need a new blade

-- Norman - I never never make a mistake, I just change the design.

View pintodeluxe's profile


6204 posts in 3660 days

#7 posted 12-09-2013 04:26 PM

Try a thin kerf blade, for example a Diablo 1024 ripping blade. It will zip through 8/4 oak like you wouldn’t believe. I started with a 50 tooth full kerf industrial Freud blade, and noticed slow feed rates and too much resistance to feeding thick lumber. Thin kerf makes all the difference for these mid-size saws. Plus the Diablo blades are inexpensive, and widely available at Home Depot, etc.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View JHIM's profile


124 posts in 2621 days

#8 posted 12-09-2013 06:47 PM

looks like i will be trying a different blade! thanks everyone

-- "the hard jobs will take a while..the impossible will take a bit longer"

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

9645 posts in 3175 days

#9 posted 12-09-2013 07:26 PM

I have an older Jet CTAS model and agree that they are well built saws. Basically, one of the earliest Tawainese clones of the venerable Delta Unisaw.

Are you basing your assessment that 2 HP isn’t enough umph based on any particular problem you’ve experienced with the saw, or is it more based on saw vs. saw spec. comparisons.

If you’ve observed a problem that you think points to lack of HP, you’ll need to detail it in order to get meaninful feed back. You’ve received some good ideas for blades…. Thin kerf is probably appropriate for a 2 HP saw… and dedicated rip and cross cut blades will give both good cut quality and efficient use of available power.

If your concerns are driven by spec comparisons, I suggest you put some miles on the saw… it may serve you very well as is.

As far as combo blades go, I have the Fusion blade that Andy mentioned above and like it quite a bit, but it takes more effort and power to rip with it than it would a dedicated rip blade.

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

View Woodknack's profile


13470 posts in 3226 days

#10 posted 12-10-2013 05:02 AM

Also, is may sound obvious but rip blades require much less power than using a combo blade to rip. My full kerf rip blade will zip through wood that bogs down a thin kerf combo.

-- Rick M,

View mbs's profile


1685 posts in 3786 days

#11 posted 12-11-2013 03:12 PM

Some blades are made for very specific uses. For example, I have a rip blade that is made for 1”-2” thick wood. It is not intended to work well or thin wood.

I generally prefer buying an industrial grade blade that has plenty of sharpening capacity rather than purchasing a less expensive disposable blade. The last Freud GLR (Glue Line Rip) blade i purchased didn’t last long at all.

A member of the LJ, Knottscott, has done plenty of testing and documenting of blades. I’ve been happy with his recommendations.

For general purpose blades I can recommend the Tenyru Gold series thin kerf blade. Cuts like butter. I made many 2” wide, 0.090” thick walnut laminate strips and glued them together without any planing/sanding and had no gaps. I can also recommend the Forest woodworker II. both of these blades are pricey. Scott may know of some great deals since he stays abreast of the blade market.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

View rustynails's profile


894 posts in 3375 days

#12 posted 12-11-2013 10:22 PM

I used to have a 1.5 hp jet contractor saw and it cut everything I sent at it so I am guessing it’s your blade. I also used to have a blue Jet cabinet saw and it looked just like yours. If you are interested I have a brand new throat plate that takes inserts for zero clearance and dato blades that I would be willing to sell if you are interested.

12 unused inserts and one unused master plate. New it ran closes to $175.00. I would let it go for $50.00.

Good luck with the cutting.

View MerylL's profile


73 posts in 2217 days

#13 posted 09-13-2014 03:57 AM

This forum is a live encyclopedia. I’m always just so amazed at how much I learn here. (Off-topic, I know, but I’m just so in awe!)

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