Video Review of PCB270TS

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Review by JSB posted 01-06-2013 06:33 AM 4557 views 0 times favorited 9 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Video Review of PCB270TS No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

Overall i would buy it again with my situation.

-- Jay -

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9 comments so far

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#1 posted 01-06-2013 07:23 AM

Based on having used 3 table saws (a cheap tradesman benchtop, a small delta and my current saw, a delta contractor saw) and the pros and cons you outlined, that is a borderline 2 star saw, especially what you paid for it. For the money, the bosch 4100 would have been a much better option. In fact, since you still have 30 days left in your return period, I would strongly consider returning it for a better saw. The throat plate and the way it flexes is a safety hazard.

In your budget, is either the bosch 4100, or if you need an induction motor saw, the ridgid R4512. I’d be leaning towards the ridgid.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

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737 posts in 2845 days

#2 posted 01-06-2013 02:57 PM

Lowes has a 30 day return policy on power tools.

The R4512 is nearly the same saw. Google “R4512 insert plate” and you will see that its the same setup.

Yeah, 4 stars is too much. I put it down to 3. At the end of the day it gets the job done. And for my shop limitations I didnt have many choices. The Rigid is nearly identical to this one and I would have to drive an hour and a half to HD instead of 2 minutes to Lowes.

-- Jay -

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1690 posts in 3400 days

#3 posted 01-06-2013 05:04 PM

Nice review. Thanks for going the extra mile with a video review.
My thoughts.
- Based on your video, I’d have kept it at 4 stars ONLY because 3.75 stars is not an option. The issues you’ve mentioned are mostly the standad in that class ($450-600) of machine. The plastic gears is pretty inexcusable though. But who knows, it might last a hundred years….but I doubt it. And sheesh! How much would metal sprockets have cut into the profit margin? I suppose PC figured the majority of buyers would not use the saw enough to wear out the gears unacceptably quick?

- I think you’re right to keep the saw. You could (have) return it, but then you might put yourself in a “chase your own tail” situation trying to find a saw with fewer faults. And the faults you mention are mostly easy to live with or “tweakable”. I bought a used Craftsman 113 saw, knowing it had some shortcomings, because it met MY particular criteria. And all things considered, its a decent machine. I surely wouldn’t have got a better saw for $225 (with T2 fence). I think you got the right saw for you. I have to disagree with NW regarding the Bosch. I couldn’t imagine a 99lb saw, with an aluminum table, and no dust collection as being a contender with a 300lb (?), cast iron, full sized contractor saw- with dust collection. That is unless portability/storage is a huge concern. Then the Bosch would be toough to beat.

-About the pitch build-up. I had a similar problem which I solved with a can of aerosol dry-lube. Lowes sells it for $3-4. Lubes the gears, but repels debris. I use it on my saw (and motorcycle chain), and it works great. JUst make sure to thoroughly clean the screw/gears before application. “Wet” lubes, such as grease, attract sawdust.

- I like the on/off switch. I also like the mobile base, despite the minor issues you pointed out. And that granite wing is sweetness.

-The PVC elbow is a good idea. Good to know that your high school physics class paid off . LOL. However, would a lid with a 4” hole make the trashcan contain the dust better? Or, how bout buying a 5 micron DC bag, and attach it to the PVC pipe with a worm clamp? Your current system seems good ‘nuff, and I can’t actually say wether my “revolutionary” ideas would noticably improve anything or not. Just making conversation.

- Would it be possible to reinforce that ZCI? Possibly epoxy a strip of steel or aluminum or stout plastic along the length of the ZCI. I would think even a 4×1x1/16” would decrease the flexibility. Might be a cheap, easy experiment that may solve an annoying issue. But again, I’m talking out my @#$ here.

- As you mentioned, I doubt the deviation of the fence squareness is having an appreciable effect on your final product, but it would annoy me nonetheless. I’d prolly be inclined to attach a sacrificial/auxillary fence for two reasons. 1- Make it 100% square 2- (and more importantly)I think an aux fence is a good idea on any fence, regardless of quality/condition. MDF, UHMW, or even hardwood flooring works great- and can be had cheap.

- How do you feel abut the two-piece front fence rail? Was it hard to install/adjust/maintain? I have a T2 mounted on my Crafty 113, and it has a solid front rail. Knowing nothing about the PC fence, I’d have been weary as it seems like just another variable to work with. Am I wrong (hopefully yes)?

-Was the trunion assembly hard to align with the miter slot? How bout the fence? Was it easy to adjust? Sorry if already mentioned it and I missed it.

Sorry for my large dose of input and questions. Feel free to ignore my ramblings. :)

View JSB's profile


737 posts in 2845 days

#4 posted 01-06-2013 06:40 PM

Ted – Thanks for the comments.

The “granite” wing is Formica. The color name of the Formica is Ebony Granite. Not quite real granite but way better than stamped steel.

The trash can with the PVC elbow works enough. It could be improved upon but at the moment I am satisfied with the current setup. The dust velocity exiting the saw is purely based on the wind produced from the saw blade. I have noticed that if you restrict the flow just a little bit more than what I have it completely stops performance. And yeah, high school physics was actually fun ;)

I honestly never thought of reinforcing the original insert. I will try that today. I did however order two Leecraft zero clearance inserts for it today. The stock insert is obviously low quality but as you and I stated most all saws in this range are under performers in this area.

The fence being out of square from the table surface is not a huge concern to me. But like I said, I know its there. After I get the zero insert plates I am going to make a two sided snug fit slip over fence that will be a little taller. One side for the dado set and one side for every day use.

The Two piece front rail was a breeze to setup. There is a connector piece that slides inside both rails right in the middle. No complaints out of the front or back rail. Aligning the fence to the miter slot was easy. There are two bolts on the top front side of the fence that can be loosened to adjust the angle of the fence. Just put a 3/4” board in the miter slot, loosen the fence, clamp it to the board, and tighten the adjustment bolts. I do not know about aligning the blade to the miter slots. Mine came dead on out of the box. I have not had a need to adjust it.

-- Jay -

View kdc68's profile


2987 posts in 3044 days

#5 posted 01-06-2013 06:52 PM

I was in the market to buy another table saw. I looked this saw over and over again at Lowes. I also spent the same amount of time looking at the R4512 at Home Depot. My conclusion was not to buy either one. The big downfall of the PC was the plastic gear. But too it looked cheap to me overall. The R4512 was more appealing. I thought the R4512 had a better fence than the PC, no plastic gear, and was $100.00 cheaper. Nevertheless, I thought it looked cheap too. I ended up purchasing a new Grizzly G0661 with a Shop Fox mobile base. Yeah double the money, I hope its’ at least double the quality. I haven’t got it yet, still in transport. I’m expecting delivery tomorrow. I hope my hunch pays off in that if you spend a little more it may hurt the bank account today, but will make up for it in the long run by having a durable product that will last many years to come

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

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#6 posted 01-06-2013 07:06 PM

Very nice, thorough, and honest review. I don’t like the plastic gears.

you may not be soliciting feedback, but, If it were mine, I would take it back and find a good deal on an used, Unisaw or PM66. Either will last another 20 years. And if you decide to sell them you will likely get close to what you paid for them unlike a saw with the plastic gears.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

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#7 posted 01-07-2013 05:15 AM

Great review by way a video, thanks

-- Norman - I never never make a mistake, I just change the design.

View dustyal's profile


1319 posts in 4242 days

#8 posted 01-07-2013 02:23 PM

Very well done review… thanks for taking the time. I agree with your pros and cons… and I did not buy this saw for the reasons you give… I am a hobbyist only, but I would like a TS with a little more quality behind it… squareness, for example. I have the same issues with a Rigid table top saw… most annoying is the flimsy insert… followed by a fence that I cannot get perpendicular to the table top. I have yet to figure out how to make a good insert… especially for zero clearance cutting

Since I have a space issue and a mobility issue with equipment, I cannot get a full size TS… so making do as you will with your saw. Again, nicely done review.

-- Al H. - small shop, small projects...

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392 posts in 3544 days

#9 posted 02-02-2013 01:47 AM

Thanks for taking the time and effort to make the video, nicely done. I have to agree with most of your findings on this saw. I was looking at the R4512/R4511 a few years ago and at one point compared to this saw. I too wasn’t at all impressed by the thin blade insert or the slam factor of releasing the wheels. I have the relative luxury of working out of my garage so I went with an old Unisaw because I knew I wouldn’t have to move it from the garage. I have it on a mobile base too. With the understanding that it was designed and built well before cool things like riving knives, I have no complaints and only praises for it. Just like you said, if you have dedicated space a cabinet saw is the way to go.


-- "I am endeavoring, ma'am, to construct a mnemonic memory circuit using stone knives and bear skins."

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