expensive but worthy!

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Review by slickSqueegie posted 12-04-2011 04:41 PM 5539 views 8 times favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch
expensive but worthy! No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

durable enough for a floor and nice looking enough for furniture! Clean-up is simple! and the finish drys a lot faster than their oil based.

I didnt even have to thin it out to use with my sprayer!

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94 posts in 3195 days

19 comments so far

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946 posts in 3565 days

#1 posted 12-04-2011 05:04 PM

I use it on anything that I don’t want to yellow. I like that I can use it on curly maple and it leaves the color the same a a if you had just wetted it with water. It does require a bit more sanding, because it raises the grain.
I first used it on a table following an article in a Fine Woodworking magazine.

-- Mel,

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94 posts in 3195 days

#2 posted 12-04-2011 05:18 PM

well, try using tung oil on your stuff before the polycrylic.
the way I finish almost everything is with at least three heavy coats of tung oil and sandded after the second coat of the tung. Then spray it with the polycrylic 2 coats is all it takes. and the tung oil does wonders for the grain “pop” effect!

Linseed oil does the same thing tung oil does so either one works great. just make sure it is completely dry after the last coat of oil based finish before going with the water based stuff.

-- Come check out more of my projects at

View ChuckC's profile


844 posts in 3708 days

#3 posted 12-04-2011 06:48 PM

I love this stuff. I especially use it on wood that I don’t want to darken like padauk and purpleheart.
The can recommends to not thin, does anyone do it anyway? What do you use?

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1730 posts in 3841 days

#4 posted 12-04-2011 07:31 PM

I’ve been using it for a couple of years and it’s my “go-to” finish. I usually have to thin it ~10% with water for my HVLP conversion gun. The can says that it isn’t recommended for floors because of the high wear, but I’ve used it in low traffic areas with good results.

-- Adversity doesn't build reveals it.

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2741 posts in 3350 days

#5 posted 12-04-2011 07:58 PM

I never had any good results with polycrylic. I make boxes that are handled a lot, and the finish was rubbing off after some use (probably from the oils and sweat from handling). I’ve switched to crystalac 2001 and it’s a far superior finish. It dries faster, harder and about the only household substance that can damage it is acetone. It doesn’t yellow and is water clear too.

I don’t use oil (dries too slow for me) but I do use zinsser sealcoat (dewaxed shellac) to bring out the color of projects and to seal the wood since the water borne crystalac would raise the grain.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View JoeyG's profile


1275 posts in 3398 days

#6 posted 12-04-2011 10:32 PM

I use this on my boxes. I use a cup sprayer and it does great. I haven’t experience the wear NiteWalker is speaking of. I made all of my kids boxes last Christmas. They carry them all over the house, use them for seats, and buts god knows what in them and it’s holding up better than I expected.

-- JoeyG ~~~

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1381 posts in 4901 days

#7 posted 12-04-2011 10:35 PM

”the way I finish almost everything is with at least three heavy coats of tung oil and sandded after the second coat of the tung. Then spray it with the polycrylic 2 coats is all it takes.”

That’s an extreme amount of Tung Oil. Why would you put another finish on top?

What brand of tung oil are you using?

Bro. Tenzin

-- 温故知新

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94 posts in 3195 days

#8 posted 12-04-2011 11:57 PM

Extreme?? Naaa, Thorough yes! The way you apply tung oil, is untill the woos stops sucking it in right away. the third coat usually does it for me.
I use the stuff from Rockler. It is the pure stuff, not the fake stuff that is labeld tung oil “finish” on the shelf at Home Depot.

-- Come check out more of my projects at

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1275 posts in 3398 days

#9 posted 12-05-2011 01:15 AM

how long do you wait between the last coat of tung oil and the first coat of poly? I know it’s subject to temp, humidity, etc. Just a rough estimate. I have been worried of it causing issues with adhesion if the project gets hot and the tung oil begins to weep out.

-- JoeyG ~~~

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5777 posts in 4005 days

#10 posted 12-05-2011 01:29 AM

I use Polycrylic on projects I don’t want to yellow, I use standard Minwax Polyurethane on projects I want to add a yellow tint to… I have always been happy with their products EXCEPT Polyshades… Never get that to come out right…

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jim C

1472 posts in 3871 days

#11 posted 12-05-2011 05:59 AM

I’m using it for the first time on oak cabinet doors. I’m using the spray. (Gloss)
I sprayed it with a heavy coat until it looks like milk, went away for a couple hours, and it came out looking great. (1 coat)
I did a 1 minute sand on the flat faces with 600 grit to smooth it out and it’s like a baby’s a—
Anyone have a different technique?

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218 posts in 4278 days

#12 posted 12-05-2011 06:23 AM

I love this stuff too! Sprays like a dream without runs and cleans up quick and easy. Each coat dries in a matter of hours too

View TerryElam's profile


6 posts in 3449 days

#13 posted 12-06-2011 08:54 PM

I also use this finish. Great results each and every time I use it.

View baldeaglebaby's profile


35 posts in 3776 days

#14 posted 12-07-2011 04:36 AM

I have not tried this product but I have just finished an oak chest using Varathane water based polyurathane and I can’t believe how well the water based product went on and dried so fast. Using my hvlp, I was putting on 1 coat an hour inside of my 60 degree garage. I thinned the material around 33%. I put on 8 thin coats in 8 hours and never had to clean out the sprayer until I was through with the project. Plenty of vertical surfaces and not a single run, and a quick wipe with 600 grit between coats. I’m not sure I will ever use the oil based products again!!

View mcase's profile


446 posts in 3902 days

#15 posted 12-07-2011 07:18 AM

I hate yellow! I did my whole oak kitchen with this. I wet sand it between coats at 400 and finish with 600. Then a coat of furniture wax. Makes a nice clear surface. I’m not sure about floors though? I think the manufacturers does not recommend it for floors. Easy clean up with water too.

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