Grizzly G0555

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Review by mushmouse posted 11-12-2011 04:19 AM 15795 views 4 times favorited 48 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Grizzly G0555 No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

After reading so many positive reviews for the G0555 I went ahead and purchased one. I always seem to be the one in a hundred who gets the lemon. I have limited experience with bandsaws and am hoping it’s just a setup error on my part, and that someone may have some insight they can offer me.

I have spoken to Grizzly tech help several times but find their responses inadequate.

First the trivial issues (at least I think they are trivial).

1.) Can’t adjust the guide bearings properly. I adjusted the guide bearings with the Guide Post all the way down, but when I raised the Guide Post all the way up, the bearings shifted to the left about 1/16th inch relative to the blade. Grizzly tech support told me to shim where the upper frame arm is mounted to the base but I don’t feel comfortable doing this (what problems might that introduce).

2.) When looking at the blade from the side. it’s off by about a half degree perpendicular to the table. Due to my inexperience I don’t know whether this is acceptable or not; again Grizzly tech support told me to shim the trunnion support.

And the problem that makes the saw unuseable:

3.) I’ve read that the blades that come with the saw are of mediocre quality, but when I made my first cut (a rip cut in a piece of 3/4 inch thick alder) it was so slow that you would have to measure the speed in minutes per foot and not feet per minute. In addition, after cutting about 6 inches into the alder, the smoke detectors went off. I bought another blade and had the same problem. Grizzly tech support has no suggestions. I am running the saw at 3200 fpm and the blade is a 3/8 inch hook with 6 TPI; I would greatly appreciate any comments before I toss the saw.


View mushmouse's profile


14 posts in 3189 days

48 comments so far

View cabmaker's profile


1745 posts in 3609 days

#1 posted 11-12-2011 04:27 AM

sounds to me as though you may be running that blade with teeth contacting the guides thus quickly dulling them. You should not see smoke even with the provided blade. Doesn t take much metal contact to dull those teeth. Is that a plastic table insert or metal ? Again, I suspect you may have your guides set a tad ahead of the teeth.

View Elizabeth's profile


821 posts in 3944 days

#2 posted 11-12-2011 04:37 AM

Can you take some close-up photos of the problem areas for us to look at?

View mikema's profile


180 posts in 3387 days

#3 posted 11-12-2011 05:30 AM

1 & 3) I agree with cabmaker. You may also have put the side bearings to tight on the blade. They should contact the blade but VERY lightly. The side bearings should be behind the blade teeth enough that when you push the work piece into the blade the teeth are still infront of the bearings . The rear bearing should have a gap, about what a folded up dollar bill would take. Make sure the bottom guides are setup the same way. Make sure you CLOSELY follow the instructions provided with the saw, it illustrates how to set the bearings as I just described.

As for the gaurd, I have noticed that one I loosen and move it up or down it can twist, but as soon as you tighten the gaurd it moves back to where it is supposed to be.

2) This could be a blade alignment issue if its not centered on both wheels. The tracking for your saw maybe off, which will cause the blade to move and possibly causing the blade to make metal to metal contact. 30 seconds of that will completely ruin the blade. Also, if the bearings were too tight, it can cause the blade to warp which could cause this as well. Try a new blade.

3) The included blade, as with any new saw, is junk, and it is likely further trashed. I put a timberwolf blade on mine, and haven’t regretted it.

Don’t give up hope yet, I would be surprised if your saw is a lemon. Take some time, re-read the instructions, and follow them as close as possible for setup.

-- Mike ---- Visit my woodworking blog:

View mushmouse's profile


14 posts in 3189 days

#4 posted 11-12-2011 05:46 AM

Thanks for responding.

@cabmaker – I was very careful to make sure the front edges of the guide bearings, both top and bottom, were behind the blade gullets (certainly no further than the edge of the gullet though it is more difficult to sight the lower bearings). And the table insert is metal. I’m sure I’m doing something stupid, but I can’t figure out what may be misaligned.

@Elizabeth – not sure if these shots are good enough or what you are looking for (the lighting is not the best)

View mushmouse's profile


14 posts in 3189 days

#5 posted 11-12-2011 05:57 AM

@mikema – I was careful with the support bearing too, I don’t think the gap between the back of the blade and the support bearing was larger than 1/32 inch, probably less than that.

I noticed the same twisting with the guard post, my observations were made with the guard post fully tightened in both positions.

I believe the tracking was fine, I spun the wheels by hand and verified that the blade was centered on both the upper and lower wheels.

I did try a new blade (which probably wasn’t much better than the original, but I’m not sure where to get a good blade from a brick and mortar store in my area of northern NJ, online would take several days at least), I think a quality blade like timber wolf is a good idea, I’ll have to order one online.

View Arminius's profile


304 posts in 4604 days

#6 posted 11-12-2011 06:15 AM

With Grizzly, it is probably best to think of as if you purchased a pretty good bandsaw kit. Get one of the good bandsaw books with a chapter about tuning, and work through it. Michael Fortune has done some good articles for Wood and FWW as well.

View MoshupTrail's profile


304 posts in 3281 days

#7 posted 11-12-2011 12:49 PM

6 tpi is a bit fine for ripping, i prefer a 4 tpi for ripping long oak planks – just whizzes right through ‘em – puts the table saw to shame (and is a lot safer)

-- Some problems are best solved with an optimistic approach. Optimism shines a light on alternatives that are otherwise not visible.

View mushmouse's profile


14 posts in 3189 days

#8 posted 11-12-2011 01:19 PM

@MoshupTrail – thanks, when I try another new blade I’ll get 4 tpi, hook I assume.

Any other suggestions for things to check, no matter how offbeat, are welcome. I’ve done things like checking the wall voltage when running the machine (not so offbeat), even checked to see that the motor was wired for 110 volts (offbeat).

View Don Butler's profile

Don Butler

1092 posts in 4196 days

#9 posted 11-12-2011 03:41 PM

I have the same model Grizzly saw. It was right on the money right out of the box.
To show how “fixable” this machine is, I accidentally tipped it over on a rough spot in the floor. it crashed hard on the concrete, destroying a table trunion and badly bending the front fence guide.
Grizzy sent the needed parts quickly and within a few hours of work it was running like new.
I’m sure your problem can be corrected. The advice from Grizzly tech doesn’t sound wrong, but it should have been caught in QC at the factory.
Keeping working, you’ll get it.
by the way, my favorite blade for ripping is the Wood Slicer.


-- No trees were damaged in posting this message, but thousands of electrons were seriously inconvenienced.

View mushmouse's profile


14 posts in 3189 days

#10 posted 11-12-2011 03:59 PM

@Don – I hope your right, but the help from Grizzly technical support has so far been limited to suggesting things to investigate (some suggestions were a little strange like telling me that maybe the G0555 is underpowered for my application), until they ran out of ideas. They tell me (I’ve spoken to several) they want a happy customer but are leaving me to deal with the problem. I get the sense they wish me to go away.

Would you like to trade machines?

View Jorge G.'s profile

Jorge G.

1537 posts in 3276 days

#11 posted 11-12-2011 04:09 PM

1) I had the same problem with my 20” hammer BS. I did shim it and there are no other problems.

2) if the blade is not square front to back, that is really not a big deal, just put a washer on the trunion that is lower. Remember, these things are now made in China and are left for the customer to complete the QC.

3) As per the comments above, make sure the bearings are not touching the blade, but simply are an aid for the blade not to wander too much, make sure the blade is riding on the center of the wheels, that the blade is square on the left and right hand size (this is the reason you experience burning, the table is not square to the blade and you are trying to push the wood too fast) and really 6 tpi is for small fine cuts, you want to rip or cross cut fast, you need 3 or 4 tpi.

Also remember, a 14” BS is not one where you will be slicing through wood like butter, it should be faster but I am afraid you have dulled the blade putting the bearings too close to the teeth and too tight to them.

Hang in there, juts make sure the blade is square to the table on all sides and the guides are not touching the blade and soon you will be using it. I had similar problems when I got my first BS. It takes some time to dial it in so it works fine.

-- To surrender a dream leaves life as it is — and not as it could be.

View mushmouse's profile


14 posts in 3189 days

#12 posted 11-12-2011 04:26 PM

@JGM0658 – could you elaborate on what you mean by:

“that the blade is square on the left and right hand size (this is the reason you experience burning, the table is not square to the blade ...”

Is this another way of saying that the side of the blade should be parallel to the fence otherwise the blade will be skewed as it cuts the wood? And if this is what you are referring to, how do you make this adjustment?

View Jimi_C's profile


507 posts in 4035 days

#13 posted 11-12-2011 05:16 PM

There are many videos online on sites like Fine Woodworking and The Wood Whisperer’s site regarding bandsaw tuning. The common hint is to wrap a piece of thin paper (like cigarette wrapping paper or something similarly fine) and to adjust the side bearings. For the thrust bearing, some people use a playing card, others use the same thin paper as above.

There are also suggestions on using something like Pam cooking spray to lubricate the blade periodically to help with smooth cutting, or you can buy the lubricant strips they sell on just about every wood working site (Rockler, Woodcraft, etc.).

Just google “bandsaw tuning tips” and you’ll find a lot of help.

-- The difference between being defeated and admitting defeat is what makes all the difference in the world - Upton Sinclair, "The Jungle"

View Popsnsons's profile


425 posts in 3782 days

#14 posted 11-12-2011 06:45 PM

This article may have some helpful tips.

-- Pops ~ In So Cal...

View PurpLev's profile


8574 posts in 4449 days

#15 posted 11-13-2011 01:40 AM

the Bandsaw is the tool that really does require the most work to set it up correctly – no way around that. shimming and adjusting things to make the blade square to the table, and to align the blade with the guides is normal – to a certain extent (as long as you are taking about adding a small shim and not relocating parts – obviously).

FYI – one thing to make sure- when the saw runs there should not be any contact between blade and any of the guides.

The only thing I am having trouble with your post is your reference to the slowness of the blade… if it’s as slow as you describe I have a hard time imagining you being able to cut 6” into anything but if thats the case, then something is definitely not right there, and that shouldn’t have to do with the guides, or the blade. maybe defective motor? (speculating based on your Really slow going description there)

burning marks as probably cause the board is pinched between blade and fence. at the point you are at – I recommend cutting freehand to validate the performance of the saw before you start finicking with the fence and alignment for drift.

Also, This does not seem much like a review for me – might be better fitting as a forum post to help you resolve the issues and cutting some wood. but that’s just me ;)

hope it works out for you. a bandsaw is a real helpful machine to have.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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