Blade alignment issues all of the sudden

  • Advertise with us
Review by NormG posted 06-15-2011 07:06 AM 4782 views 2 times favorited 15 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Blade alignment issues all of the sudden No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

I purchased this saw as an upgrade February 2010, at a very good price with the blessings of my wife. I initially had some of the same issues others had with the set up of this TS. My son saw an entry in LJ’s that very helpful and I joined. I changed the bolts, washers, etc. What was the most help was an entry that suggested loosening the 45/90 set screws in front of the blade and everything just fell right into place.

The saw was packed well, it did not have damage and/or missing parts. The included instructions might as well have been left out all together. There were 2 small scratches on the table top, they were minor and I was able to live with them. It took about 4 hours to initially set up. Would have been helpful to have had a second pair of hands. I did when I placed the TS on the wheels. Had the normal paint that chipped when the screws were tightened down, the wings are not the best but I was able to get them level, the fence rails were a journey in themselves to adjust properly and the fence it self was not bad at all. As previously said I had alignment issues, but they were solved. I checked the arbor, the table top and the rail with a dial indicator. All was well. I checked the blade with a Wixey several times by starting in the top blade position all the way down to the lowest blade position. Dead one at 90 deg and also at 45 deg. Someone provided me with this link I set the TS according to these instructions and it has been dead ever since. I was not able to get much use out the TS for a while due to a prior back injury that flared up. I was able to start to make saw dust, was making some finger joints, was having an issue with them not being square (front to back). As it turned out the face of the miter gauge was not 90 deg to the TS. Since there is no adjustment for this it had to go. Everything was going along well in TS land.

UNTIL…., I started to make small boxes again, I tier/step the tops of some of them with he TS. I started to get burning on the back side of the blade. I checked everything with the dial gauge as I have a small shop, thinking I may have knocked it out while moving the saw around. Everything was dead on. I was also experiencing the blade slowing down. I used 10” Diablo 60’s (thin kerf) and Avanti (thin kerf) 7 1/4” 40’s as they are cheaper than the 10” blades and work fine for me.

A friend of mine has a complete set of gauges with extensions and he brought them over. Set the TS up just like for the cut, check the fence in place thinking maybe the rail was bent in this area of use. Fence was straight in place all the way down. Did a test cut and same results. Checked the blade. The back was closer to the fence. Took the panel off the saw, thinking the trunnions had come loose. They were still lined up with the marks I had placed there previously. Checked the arbor for run out and for still being round, which it was all right for both. Changed the blade, checked for square, set it up for the cut with the same results.

Here is what I found out, I have attached pictures. While looking at the blade notice there was a cirle where the blade flange sits behind the nut. As it turns out, my thin kerf blades were slipping. Why you ask, did not I tighten them down. I did, by research and a trip to Sears verified that my arbor threads are about 1/8” shorter that they are supposed to be. So the nut was bottoming out with thin kerf blades. Solved that with a thick 5/8” washer

I took the best pictures I could with my camera. When I use the smaller blade, set the riving knife accordingly and to the proper height for the blade, the back side of the riving knife hits on the housing inside the saw. This causes the back side of the blade to be closer to the fence. There are 3 preset positions for the riving knife. If you use any of these and/or have it all the way up/down it clears. However, if you set it as I have been for the smaller 7 1/4” blades, it does not clear the inside of the saw.

I like the saw, just has some quirks.

-- Norman - I never never make a mistake, I just change the design.

View NormG's profile


6506 posts in 3856 days

15 comments so far

View NormG's profile


6506 posts in 3856 days

#1 posted 06-15-2011 07:08 AM

For unknown reasons my pic’s did not load.

-- Norman - I never never make a mistake, I just change the design.

View Moron's profile


5048 posts in 4746 days

#2 posted 06-15-2011 07:22 AM

for unknown reasons my “contractors” portable TS has the same issues. Watching the blade slow down is like watching a novice use a hulla hoop, like its in some kinda strange galactic orbit of its own. Wierd eh. Thousand bucks buys a sample of an epliptical space statoon study project gone bad but in the end we make the tools we have work.

I guess thats what got us on the moon.

dissappointing isnt it ?

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View jim C's profile

jim C

1472 posts in 3951 days

#3 posted 06-15-2011 02:54 PM

There go’s Moron again. He’s gotta get off the weed.
Ridiculous blather.

View Douglas's profile


424 posts in 3412 days

#4 posted 06-16-2011 06:31 AM

I have the same saw, and luckily I didn’t have the issues you’re having. If is that new, id think they’d swap you out the parts for the correctly threded arbor. I was able to get things aligned with the bolts and washers that came with it. The only thing that was a disappointment was the fence, which I replaced with an Incra TS LS which was great.

-- Douglas in Chicago -

View NormG's profile


6506 posts in 3856 days

#5 posted 06-16-2011 06:43 AM

If I use one of the 3 preset stop for the riving knife there is no problem. But I I set it a the level of the 7 1/4 blades it will not clear the inner housing. I like the saw. I suppose they prefer you to use the preset stops.

-- Norman - I never never make a mistake, I just change the design.

View Moron's profile


5048 posts in 4746 days

#6 posted 06-17-2011 06:34 AM

Thanks Jim C… you know a lot.

Thats quite an impressive project page you have. Definity shows your skill and excellence at the craft of joinery.

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View Steve2's profile


75 posts in 4423 days

#7 posted 06-18-2011 12:29 PM

Many thanks to Norman and Moron for the colorful report. It (they) show why so many people – including this writer – have to learn the hard way that we get what we pay for. After one or two mediocre (or worse) Sears Crapsman products we either upgrade to a major commercial quality brand or roll along for years or even decades on Crapsman not knowing or needing better.

-- Regards, Steve2

View Routerisstillmyname's profile


763 posts in 4362 days

#8 posted 06-18-2011 07:42 PM

Well, when you align the blade you have to do it with belt fully loaded. That means the saw blade as high as it can go and then adjust your belt tightness and then do the blade alignment. You don’t have to have a 1000 dollar saw to make accurate cuts.

-- Router è ancora il mio nome.

View MedicKen's profile


1615 posts in 4315 days

#9 posted 06-18-2011 09:52 PM

I HAD a Craftsman hybrid, 22114 I think, and sold if for the exact same reasons. I was not able to keep the fence parallel to the blade nor the miter slots parallel to the blade. I tried everything short of replacing the fence and was never able to keep it in alignment. I have since sold the saw and upgraded to first a ‘68 unisaw that was restored and now to an Oliver 232 that is currently under restoration.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected]

View kiefer's profile


5772 posts in 3519 days

#10 posted 06-19-2011 04:25 AM

The craftsman fence like all others of that type have the same design problems that are easily corrected .For a few bucks and a little time you can beef up this fence and install a front locking mechanism which will pull the fence into square before it locks up at the rear of the fence,which converts it into a t square fence with a rear lock.I have done this to my fence and it turned out great,I had done a post on this some time ago but the post somehow got changed and there is not much left of it.A set of blade stiffeners is also a good thing to add with any blade which would also addressed the short arbor thread issue .
If any body wants info on this e mail me .

-- Kiefer

View mcase's profile


446 posts in 3982 days

#11 posted 06-19-2011 07:56 AM

The saw is a 10”. Its not meant to use 7 1/4” blade. If you set the riving knife beyond its design limits its not surprising that it won’t function properly. The stock burns on the out feed end, ok adjust the fence. The only issue here would be the threads and that as you yourself point out is very easily solved. You will undoubtedly have to fiddle with this machine more than you would with a more expensive, better quality one, but for what it is it sounds like it works well enough.

View beaker46's profile


1 post in 3008 days

#12 posted 07-01-2012 07:11 PM

Relative to the Craftsman 218330 10” Contractor Table Saw, I saw comments about not buying Craftsman again because of a bad experience with this saw. I don’t know, but I’d guess it’s not a Delta build saw. I have several Craftsman tools and have learned after several situations that if you investigate and find it’s actually a saw mfg. by Delta, you’ll get a good tool. I have had some unpleasant experiences with tools that you can’t identify the source, but with Delta sourced, I’ve never had a problem.

View NormG's profile


6506 posts in 3856 days

#13 posted 07-01-2012 08:19 PM

Since all the initial adjustments were completed, all has been very well with this saw. It does a very good job, has stayed in adjustment very nicely and for the price I feel like I made a sound choice.

-- Norman - I never never make a mistake, I just change the design.

View Moron's profile


5048 posts in 4746 days

#14 posted 07-02-2012 03:21 AM

useless until its the only saw you have : )

then suddenly a “god send”, ……accuracy assured

a true “miracle” in motion

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

View Silverback's profile


18 posts in 4096 days

#15 posted 06-13-2014 09:29 PM

I notice that the posts are all two to three years old. Have any of these problems with blade alignment been solved or improved? I’m seriously considering buying one of these saws because it is on sale for a good price. (About $45 less than the sister Rigid and WAY below the Masterforce at Menards.)
I don’t much care about the fence as I plan on using the Incra LS fence system I already have.

-- Started with nothing, got most of it left.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics