Totally Worth It

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Review by Vrtigo1 posted 06-02-2011 07:17 PM 4702 views 1 time favorited 23 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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A little background to give this review some context. I am a beginning WW, been doing it about 18 months now. I am at the point where I am able to appreciate good tools and justify spending money on them.

With that being said, blades have never been a high priority for me. I have been using cheap blades from home depot up to now because I didn’t think a hundred dollar blade would make a huge difference in the quality of my work. Well, I found out that I could use my Amex reward points to shop at Amazon, so I bought this blade since it was on my wishlist and I figured it was essentially “free” to me at that point.

I just got it today, used it for about 10 minutes and am already ready to say that it was totally worth it, and if I actually had to shell out the hundred bucks for it, I would. I did some crosscut and rip cuts in some scrap red oak and the finish is almost unbelievably smooth. Some other guys have said that they can skip the jointer and go straight to glue up and I believe them. I also believe what I’ve read about going straight to 220 paper.

The blade is a beast, it’s a lot heavier than my other blades and I can tell by looking at the teeth that the carbide is a lot thicker. I did not get the blade stiffener that sits on the arbor next to the blade, but I have trouble seeing why you would need it with the way this blade is built. The blade cuts VERY smoothly as well. I will add a disclaimer that my current blades are probably pretty dull, so take that however you want to, but switching from one to the other is like night and day.

Overall, I don’t think I could ask for more and am very satisfied with this addition. :)

View Vrtigo1's profile


434 posts in 3795 days

23 comments so far

View ShaneA's profile


7085 posts in 3401 days

#1 posted 06-02-2011 08:01 PM

I agree, I have used these blades for years. They are worth the $, and hold an edge for a long time. Even though they are noticeably heavier than most blades I do reccomend a blade stiffener. I will also add forrest’s sharpening services are top notch, the blades come back scary sharp. Nothing like a razor sharp saw blade.

View helluvawreck's profile


32122 posts in 3670 days

#2 posted 06-02-2011 09:32 PM

I agree with you; good tools are usually worth the price. Thanks for the review.

-- helluvawreck aka Charles,

View scarpenter002's profile


618 posts in 4708 days

#3 posted 06-02-2011 11:19 PM

Yes, once I got a WWII, I wondered how I could have ever have made it without one. Got my first one with Rockler reward dollars from Rockler rewards credit card. I was extremely sad when they shut that program down.

-- Scott in Texas

View tenontim's profile


2131 posts in 4548 days

#4 posted 06-03-2011 02:04 PM

I just bought my sixth blade about 3 months ago. I stand by them and their sharpening service. These blades are good for about a dozen sharpenings (15 if you don’t wait too long between). They’ll retip the entire blade for 80% of the cost of a new one, but I’ve been able to find them on sale somewhere cheaper. I have the standard and thin kerf blades and am happy with all of them.

View saddletramp's profile


1180 posts in 3441 days

#5 posted 06-03-2011 03:01 PM

What’s that old saying, the greatest thing since sliced bread? Well, with the WWII thin kerf you could slice the bread yourself. ;^))))

-- ♫♪♪♫♫ Saddletramp, saddletramp, I'm as free as the breeze and I ride where I please, saddletramp ♪♪♪♫♪ ...... Bob W....NW Michigan (Traverse City area)

View vernonator's profile


75 posts in 3454 days

#6 posted 06-03-2011 04:16 PM

I will add a +1 to that, replaced the stock blade that came with my General Int’l saw with a WWII and OMG – it powered thru 8/4 hard maple like it was butter, and smooth as silk cut….I will never go back to anything else…..

View MedicKen's profile


1615 posts in 4265 days

#7 posted 06-03-2011 09:21 PM

If you want an even better blade…..Take a look at the Freud Fusion P410. It will cut circles around the Forrest

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their [email protected]

View knotscott's profile


8382 posts in 4179 days

#8 posted 06-03-2011 10:54 PM

Forrest suggests using the stiffeners, much like the oil change places suggest several additional services everytime I go in….mainly because it’s profitable and it “might” help. It’s typically not needed on a well tuned saw that has low runout, so I’d hold off on buying a stiffener unless there’s an obvious runout issue with the saw or the blade.

Nice review…I remember my first experience with a WWII very well.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

4275 posts in 3968 days

#9 posted 06-04-2011 02:23 AM

I use Forrest blades on my TS. But I have used Freud as well. Have a Freud on my RAS. I think I would wager that the Freud are better dollar value, but… my Forrest blade on the TS.

Think it is pretty close….............

Alaska Jim

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View matt garcia's profile

matt garcia

1917 posts in 4475 days

#10 posted 06-04-2011 03:33 AM

I just love my WWII!!

-- Matt Garcia Wannabe Period Furniture Maker, Houston TX

View Scott Oldre's profile

Scott Oldre

1128 posts in 4234 days

#11 posted 06-04-2011 01:56 PM

I have two that I use on my craftsman contractor saw along with an Incra TS Fence System. What I couldn’t afford in terms of Saw, I’ve made up with the Forrest WWII blade and fence. Still lust after a cablinet saw, but for now I can still power through 8/4 Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry – Very Hard) when I need to with what I have.

They do stay sharp a long time, and when gluing up edge grain cutting boards from the recycled pallet Jatoba the edge the Forrest puts on the wood requires zero sanding. It is amazing in my opinion and I’d buy more, but first I need to send my first one in for sharpening to see how that works.

Does anyone have experience with having Forrest sharpen them with the flat edge so kerf cuts in a box corner doing have the ears?

-- Scott, Irmo SC

View Dan Katz's profile

Dan Katz

96 posts in 3442 days

#12 posted 06-04-2011 10:48 PM

While working at a Woodcraft store last year they had Frued demo day and gave
all the employes a free Fusion table saw blade. I took it home and put it on my
Delta contractors saw. It cross cut pretty good but for ripping it didn’t perform well for me.
It is also very heavy and made a stange vibration and gave me an uneasy feeling.
I sold it for 50 bucks and when I can aford it will probably buy the Forest.

-- VillageCarver,Chattanooga

View Bertha's profile


13588 posts in 3496 days

#13 posted 06-04-2011 10:49 PM

Wait, Forrest blades are good? I jest, of course. Far better quality than my technique demands. Buth that’s never stopped me before;)

-- My dad and I built a 65 chev pick up.I killed trannys in that thing for some reason-Hog

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

4275 posts in 3968 days

#14 posted 06-05-2011 03:41 AM

I admit, I have 3 WWII blades, all the same. When one gets dull, the next new one in a row will come out and the old one will go to Forrest to get sharpened. The 3rd is a reserve in case of strange damage, etc.

On my RAS is a Freud Diablo 80 tooth. I just went down and crosscut a 2×4 and a piece of plywood, as a reality check, although I have been crosscutting all day. Then checked the numerous rips with my WWII on the TS I made today. Cutting mostly softwood and 3/4” ply on both saws. No burns. Smooth edges. I have not sanded any edges prior to gluing, did a lot of that today as well. For a crosscut, that Diablo is a winner. I love it. The WWII does everything it is supposed to do as well. Both saws are well tuned. I don’t have any cheap blades in the shop, at least not in use.


I don’t know how I could do much better than the WWII’s on the TS. Also, don’t know how I could do any better on the RAS with the Freud. The performance is equal. But, of course, different functions. I think the TS blade is much more critical, because of the rip issues. I never smooth or sand any cut edges prior to gluing.

And the WWII cuts plywood as well, essentially a crosscut function, with no fuss. I like these blades and will buy the same blades next time. No sense in experimenting with my money, since I am getting good results.

A final disclaimer. I have been cutting with the RAS for 41 years, and the TS for 21 years, and the blades have improved dramatically, as have my results. This is not a comparison test, but just the opinion of a real world LJ amateur bloke, not making fine cabinetry, but trying to get there. I am sure there are better blades, but I am not gonna spend the money to find out.

........ain’t this fun….......(-:

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

4275 posts in 3968 days

#15 posted 06-05-2011 04:00 AM

OK, since it is Saturday afternoon, and I’m finished in the shop with a bunch of clamps on a glueup. Into my cups. 2nd or is it 3rd glass of wine…....(-:

So let’s mix it up…...the smoothest cuts I have seen are made by my modest priced Oshlun 8” dado set. Both the bottom and the sides are like glass. Don’t know what’s with that, but that set is a winner. I swear, those cuts are almost reflective…...(-:

Now that’s a bargain. Perfect results. Modest price. Bought because of LJ reviews.

And I bought my WWII’s because of LJ reviews like this one. The Freud Diablo I picked up before seeing any reviews, but they have been good.

.....and by the way, I am using a hotrodded Delta Contractor’s saw (meaning new Vega fence, link belt, machined pulleys, 220V, WWII blade)

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

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