WS3000 Wide Blade Attachment - Fixed!

  • Advertise with us
Review by BigJimAK posted 07-20-2010 03:42 AM 9418 views 11 times favorited 17 comments Add to Favorites Watch
WS3000 Wide Blade Attachment - Fixed! WS3000 Wide Blade Attachment - Fixed! WS3000 Wide Blade Attachment - Fixed! Click the pictures to enlarge them

I recently picked up a WorkSharp 3000 after trying my hand at tuning some bevel-up Veritas 3/16” thick A2 steel plane blades. The instructions say to attach the wide blade guide, leveling it with the sharpening sandpaper. Unfortunately, it won’t go down that far, because the inside of some of the supports squeeze against a raised piece of the machine. Sooo… I got out my Dremel and a carborundum cutting wheel and trimmed them back. I’ve attached a picture showing where I had to grind. It only took a couple of minutes and it was level.

Please note it was the inside of the support, not the “bottom”.

I’d previously called WS and they told me it didn’t have to be level, just co-planar, a cop-out to me. I wanted to use my Veritas honing guide with it and to use the angle setter, I needed level.

All this because some of the blades are 25, some 38 and some 50*. It worked like a champ! I’ve attached a picture showing the reflection of some ribbed rubber matting in the blade. Scary sharp!

-- Jim in Alaska

View BigJimAK's profile


30 posts in 4137 days

17 comments so far

View patron's profile


13708 posts in 4188 days

#1 posted 07-20-2010 05:59 AM

i got the work sharp 3000 too .

don’t have the wide table yet ,

but i apreciate knowing that about it ,
save me some frustration someday .

thank you !

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Bryan_M's profile


46 posts in 3890 days

#2 posted 07-20-2010 07:17 AM

I’ve been putting off getting this attachment because I’ve heard it was a pain to use for plane irons. Your mod makes it look like it might be worth getting now. Thanks!

View Eagle1's profile


2066 posts in 3911 days

#3 posted 07-20-2010 12:38 PM

I have the sharp 3000 also. Thanks for the post. I was thinking about getting the attachment.

-- Tim, Missouri ....Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the heck happened

View Eric_S's profile


1565 posts in 4042 days

#4 posted 07-20-2010 01:54 PM

Nice fix. I thought of that but instead just bought a 1/2” ID, 1” OD washer to put below the wheel. It’s still annoying to have to level the platform to the wheel since each grit is a different thickness. This only takes a couple of seconds though but still its a pain.

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN

View Bob N's profile

Bob N

131 posts in 4774 days

#5 posted 07-20-2010 08:15 PM

Nice fix Jim… keep up the good work!

View JoeButler's profile


39 posts in 4574 days

#6 posted 07-21-2010 01:09 AM

Well, I got this attachment also. I had the same problem…but my solution is usually to grab a bigger hammer. Which I did, which cracked the aluminum. LOL

Not bad enough that it’s unusable, but I wish I was little more visibly oriented so I can see stuff like this.

Now I know how to properly fix it. Thanks!

-- Joe

View Dusty56's profile


11859 posts in 4535 days

#7 posted 07-21-2010 02:09 AM

”it didn’t have to be level, just co-planar” Did you ask them for their definition of co-planar ? Sounds like you were speaking to a real “Einstein” there …LOL…...Nice fix and I thank you for sharing this valuable tip : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View BigJimAK's profile


30 posts in 4137 days

#8 posted 07-21-2010 03:15 AM

I must say, that blade in a LA Veritas BU smoother cuts whisper shavings in “rock” maple like butter!! Enough to give ya goosebumps! :D

-- Jim in Alaska

View Eric_S's profile


1565 posts in 4042 days

#9 posted 07-21-2010 05:38 PM

Dusty, level and coplanar are not the same. Coplanar means they are in the same plane, but the plane can be be at any angle in any direction. If the plane is 90 degree vertical or 90 degree horizontal, then it is level (and coplanar)

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN

View rance's profile


4274 posts in 4007 days

#10 posted 07-22-2010 01:13 PM

Yeah, the guy doesn’t know what coplanar is. They don’t have to be the same height, but they should be parallel with each other.

-- Backer boards, stop blocks, build oversized, and never buy a hand plane--

View Dusty56's profile


11859 posts in 4535 days

#11 posted 07-23-2010 04:47 AM

Thanks Eric…S , I know the difference , but in this case , you still need the table to be level , ie: in the same plane as the sanding disc , which is what the post is all about….fixing the attachment so that it is level AND coplanar. If the attachment was an eighth inch higher than the disc on one side , then it wouldn’t be coplanar or level , ay ?

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View Eric_S's profile


1565 posts in 4042 days

#12 posted 07-23-2010 01:41 PM

Ah yes you are correct, I thought you were just arguing that level and co-planar are the same. Yes I agree they need to be level and co-planar for it to sharpen correctly. Its a great sharpening tool, but the wide blade attachment is a bit of a pain due to different thicknesses of grits. I think I’ll just do my large plane irons by manual scary sharp method on granite slab.

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN

View BigJimAK's profile


30 posts in 4137 days

#13 posted 07-24-2010 05:29 AM

Here’s a follow-up to my original post…

Before telling you where I stand, I’ll tell you where I sit. Sharpening and sharp mean different things to different people. This continuum ranges from those who are happy with “better than butter knife” sharp to purists who get great pleasure and satisfaction from sharpening something sharper than anything’s ever been sharpened before.

As an engineer, I’m closer to the latter than the former but I get my pleasure from using a finely tuned plane and being able to easily cut whisker-thin shavings end-grain or with-grain in hard maple, tigerwood or anything else that I’m working with. For me, it’s how it cuts, not how “perfect” it is. For example, I expect the face to be mirror-polished but a fine scratch on the face doesn’t bother, as long as its no where near the cutting edge. Now, for my experience..

The whole process was completed was performed with the blade clamped in my Veritas honing guide, as shone in my photo #3. Starting with 80 grit and working through 120 grit, by the time I’d finished with the 400 grit it was easily shaving hair from the back of my arm. With further honing on 1000, 3600 and finally 6000 grit, it was sharp enough to cut most (but not all) of the hair on my arm without the blade even touching my skin. When touched to my skin, it cut as close or closer than my razor. Installed in my Veritas BU LA plane, it easily made cuts in hard maple approaching “read through”. In my sample test in maple the surface had no tear-out and was smooth as glass. That would likely be different in sufficiently wild-figured wood but IMO, that’s best addressed by switching to one of my higher-angle blades. When I studied the blade surface closely in bright light I could discern no change in angle due to thickness variations in the sandpaper, though they may exist if sufficient magnification was used. The edge was painless and easy to re-hone (as needed) with this setup. Rather than occasionally sharpening my blade to an extreme level of sharpness, this setup lets me give the blade a fine re-hone quickly before each use.

In synopsis, it’s sharp enough for me; your mileage may vary!!! <g>

-- Jim in Alaska

View KayBee's profile


1083 posts in 4093 days

#14 posted 10-06-2010 07:55 AM

Got the wide blade attachment a little while ago. Didn’t fit. Did the little bit of grinding and now it sits flush with no problem. Thanks for the info Jim!

-- Karen - a little bit of stupid goes a long way

View StumpyNubs's profile


7827 posts in 3647 days

#15 posted 12-31-2011 04:25 PM

Thought you may like to see my video of the Upgrades I made to the Work Sharp including one that allows you to use Tormek jigs AND how to use cheap buffing compound instead of sandpaper instead of diamond wheels and compounds:

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' most unique publications:

showing 1 through 15 of 17 comments

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics