They need to rework the way it sits on WorkSharp 3000

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Review by Eric_S posted 04-01-2010 04:31 PM 7494 views 2 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
They need to rework the way it sits on WorkSharp 3000 No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

So I just got the WS3000 this weekend and had a chance to play around with it. This thing is amazing, I have been rehoning all my chisels and plane irons less than 2” in assembly line fashion (all backs at 120 grit, then bevels, then all backs at 400 grit, then bevels, and so on). This thing is amazing, super easy to use, and very quick compared to the manual Scary Sharp method.

Now onto the wide blade attachment that I purchased for my 2 3/8” plane iron at $69.99

The angle guide and honing guide the blade sits in are top notch and very easy to use. The wide blade attachment is also very well constructed, I think the top is cast iron but I could be wrong, It may be steel or aluminum. To use the angle guide to set the honing guide, you face the honing guide in the correct direction(white side forward for angles less than 30 and orange side foward for angles up to 60 degrees). Then you just slide the blade up until it touches the arrow at the appropriate angle. You can also hone a 1 degree micro bevel after by turning the arrow clip around. The actual wide blade attachment however out of the box sucks! At least the one I purchased and I’ve read similar things. Here is my issue with it, and a possible workaround I’m going to try this weekend and post an update:

In order for the wide blade attachment to sharpen correctly, it must be perfectly level with the top of the disc. Since each grit changes thickness, you have to adjust the 4 levelers with the including allen wrench when switching grits. This alone isn’t that much of a deal and doesn’t take too long to get perfectly level, although adjusting one screw causes the angle of the top to adjust slightly so it takes a little tweaking but after the initial level, should only take a couple small turns per grit to adjust back and forth.

The real problem however comes in the way the attachment attaches to the WorkSharp 3000. First you slide the attachment into two grooves on the WS3000, tap it down with a mallet, and then tighten these bolts before adjusting the levelers. And those two bolts are where the issue comes in. No matter what I tried, it sits slightly higher than the disc (with sandpaper on both sides) at its lowest setting(all the levelers tucked away fully). The reason is there is a little lip at the edge of where it sits that keeps it a bit too high, also the groove it locks into has a stop that might be too high as well. From what I’ve read, you can insert a tiny lock washer between the groove and nut to push the attachment away from the lip causing it to sit slightly lower. The idea I had though I think will be an easier solution but we’ll see. Instead of messing with the attachment, just insert a washer onto the arbor that the glass disc sits on raising the wheel up slightly. Then all you should have to do in theory is adjust the levelness of the attachment.

out of the box though, I could not get the damn thing level with the discs which meant my angles were off when I tried to use the honing guide and the backs weren’t even getting touched by the plate.

I gave this 3 stars because if all it requires to fix this issue is a 5 cent washer then I must say this is a great product but they should include the washer. I’ll be sure to update when I find out and also contact worksharp. But strictly out of the box, I cannot recommend this. You might be better off honing by hand on the disc for blades greater than 2”.

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN

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1565 posts in 3998 days

8 comments so far

View skeeter's profile


233 posts in 4144 days

#1 posted 04-02-2010 03:09 AM

it looks like cast and machined aluminum

-- My philosophy: Somewhere between Norm and Roy

View OttawaP's profile


89 posts in 4529 days

#2 posted 04-02-2010 07:53 PM

I owned a worksharp at one time. Freaking amazing for chisels and small blades. Fast, plenty accurate and sweet sharp. But when it came to plane blades…...disappointing. It’s too much to ask for a 6” disk to sharpen a 2 1/4”+ blade. Between the inner rotation vs the outer rotation and the problems as mentioned above….it was a no go. Sold it to buy a barely used Tormek, and between touch ups with water stones as needed, all blades I own including my jointer knives are as good as it gets.

-- Paul

View knothead's profile


163 posts in 4751 days

#3 posted 04-02-2010 11:04 PM

I bought a Worksharp 3000 over a year ago and have been disappointed in it from the first time I turned it on…The little gearbox bangs and clangs like an old dodge 318 with loose lifters. It will only really sharpen small chisels and even then it has never lived up to the hype. Don’t even mention a plane iron….I considered the wide blade attachment but it looked cheap and very expensive for what it is. Broke down and bought a Tormek T7 and OMG!! Now that is a sharpening system!


-- So Much Wood - So Little Time! --

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137 posts in 4132 days

#4 posted 06-25-2010 01:43 AM

I have had the WS3000 with the wide-blade attachment about 4 months; I would also give it a mixed review. The chisel-sharpening port on the underside has proven difficult to align to get a square edge, and the little patch of sandpaper for deburring is a bit of a joke. I inherited a large granite plate, and I’d gotten a Veritas Mark II honing guide for a present, so I combine them. I use the WorkSharp for rough cutting, then finish up on the granite place with several grades of PSA silicone carbide paper. I just picked up a low-speed grinder from Grizzly, and I think I’ll be moving my rougher grinding to that unit; it has a 1 1/2” wide medium grit white wheel on the right, and cuts fairly quickly without burning—one of the issues I hoped the WorkSharp would solve. I just added a brief review of the Grizzly grinder today.

-- Now, where did I put those bandaids?

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1565 posts in 3998 days

#5 posted 06-25-2010 01:58 AM

I actually think the underside is great but I have noticed the width setting on it needs to be pretty tight against the chisel for square. I tighten it so I can’t move the chisel at all up and down and then little by little loosen until I can just barely move the chisel with little difficulty. As for the burning, i haven’t had any. Do you very briefly touch it to the wheel and then back it off or do you keep the blade against tfor a bit? They suggest touching it for only 1-2 second durations before backing it off.

-- - Eric Noblesville, IN

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3 posts in 3605 days

#6 posted 11-16-2010 03:59 AM

I bought a WS3000 a year ago after seeing the video and hearing all the praise. I am not sure if I got a bad one or if I just don’t know how to use this thing, but I cannot seem to get a square end to my chisels. I have resorted to tipping the chisel a bit to get it close and then I go to my stones and honing guide to get them the rest of the way. Considering the cost of these, I would have expected better results. I was tempted to get the wide blade attachment in hopes that it would work better, but I hate to throw good money after bad.

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7817 posts in 3604 days

#7 posted 12-31-2011 04:28 PM

Thought you may like to see my video of the Upgrades I made to the Work Sharp including one that allows you to use Tormek jigs AND how to use cheap buffing compound instead of sandpaper instead of diamond wheels and compounds:

-- Subscribe to "Stumpy Nubs Woodworking Journal"- One of the crafts' most unique publications:

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3063 posts in 2018 days

#8 posted 09-26-2018 11:43 PM

Thought you may like to see my video of the Upgrades I made to the Work Sharp including one that allows you to use Tormek jigs AND how to use cheap buffing compound instead of sandpaper instead of diamond wheels and compounds:

- StumpyNubs

+1 great project

-- Desert_Woodworker

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