LumberJocks

Works great, but with one recently discovered potentially dangerous flaw.

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Review by RCCinNC posted 01-22-2021 02:13 AM 2690 views 0 times favorited 49 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Works great, but with one recently discovered potentially dangerous flaw. No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

I’ve been using the Long Ranger 3 for 15 plus years now for controlling my 220volt 2 hp. Grizzly dust collector. Though I always felt it’s construction…somewhat flimsy plastic on both the remote and base unit somewhat sub par, it has worked flawlessly, especially given I’ve dropped the remote a gazillion times.

Yesterday I rearranged the shop, and needed to create an extension for the base unit to the dust collector’s dedicated wall outlet. Pulling the dust collector cord from the base unit, the outlet in the base unit practically came out of the box. I opened the box to find heat damage to both one positive side insulator as well as damage to what amounts to be a very cheap pop in outlet.

I wanted to pass this on to any of you that may own one of these units. They are incredibly convenient, work great…but due to poor quality components potentially dangerous. No one wants a fire hazard in their shop, but absolutely no one wants that fire to start next to there dust collector. The ones for sale today look exactly like the one I own. I do not know if they’ve made changes since, but the first image comes from their current catalog, and appears to have the same pop in outlet. Though the base unit says suitable for up to 3 HP. the descriptive text says up to 2 1/2 HP. Outside of FCC certification for the remote, my unit has no UL or similar certification, nor was there any such information on the pop in outlet.

Interestingly, the interior of the box is templated for a standard wall outlet. So…a run to H.D. for a Leviton 250vac 20 amp outlet, some really tight but manageable wiring and a couple of nuts to retain the outlet from the front and I feel it’s better than new. An occasional inspection and time will tell.

Stay safe Jocks!

-- Live to putter...putter to live!




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RCCinNC

471 posts in 1333 days



49 comments so far

View tmasondarnell's profile

tmasondarnell

149 posts in 2796 days


#1 posted 01-22-2021 02:14 PM

Wow you dodged a bullet on that one…glad you are safe. I use the 110 version for my HF DC unit.

That is some serious heat in that plug. Looking at the current specs on Amazon, the unit is rated for 16 amps, which should be well below the rating of the motor on the DC.

Not to be the negative guy, but do you think you could be having trouble with excessive current draw on the motor?
If you have a motor issue, it could be drawing 18 amps on a 16 amp switch, but never flip the breaker which is at 20 amps? Also, even if the motor is not over current, if it is running at the high end of its rating all of the time—not just at start up, you could see this problem.

IS the motor on the DC running real hot to the touch? Especially when you have been running it a lng time?

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RCCinNC

471 posts in 1333 days


#2 posted 01-22-2021 03:06 PM



Wow you dodged a bullet on that one…glad you are safe. I use the 110 version for my HF DC unit.

That is some serious heat in that plug. Looking at the current specs on Amazon, the unit is rated for 16 amps, which should be well below the rating of the motor on the DC.

Not to be the negative guy, but do you think you could be having trouble with excessive current draw on the motor?
If you have a motor issue, it could be drawing 18 amps on a 16 amp switch, but never flip the breaker which is at 20 amps? Also, even if the motor is not over current, if it is running at the high end of its rating all of the time—not just at start up, you could see this problem.

IS the motor on the DC running real hot to the touch? Especially when you have been running it a lng time?

- tmasondarnell


Thanks for the heads up. You mean the unit should be well above the rating on the DC. Right? I think the DC is 12 amp. Regarding heat, I don’t think so, but I’ll check it out. The outlets are all 20 amp rated in the shop and the new outlet installed in the base unit is also twenty amp rated, so hopefully that issue is covered…at least the fire hazard.

Assuming we are talking about the same thing, besides overheating, wouldn’t the motor tend to power sag if it was drawing overcurrent? I’ve never tripped the motors breaker/ restart button. When I built my shop, I stepped up a gauge from the code requirements for all circuits, having dealt with current draw issues in the field, so I’d be surprised if that were a problem. It would be nice to have a shop big enough for that to be a problem! Whether the motor’s running at its limits, I can’t tell you, but I assume that excessive heat would be the tell.

Negative guy!? Hardly…more like helpful and informative guy! ; ) Much appreciated!

-- Live to putter...putter to live!

View Ocelot's profile

Ocelot

2873 posts in 3645 days


#3 posted 01-22-2021 03:22 PM

A loose plug can heat up. Did your plug fit snugly in that? Bad connections get hot.

-- I intended to be a woodworker, but turned into a tool and lumber collector.

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RCCinNC

471 posts in 1333 days


#4 posted 01-22-2021 03:32 PM



A loose plug can heat up. Did your plug fit snugly in that? Bad connections get hot.

- Ocelot


Yeah it was tight. Trashed many a cheap drop cord for the very reason you suggested. The contact on the back of the outlet was tight as well. But, with that thought, it was practically fused on, so corrosion or arcing could have been an issue there. The problem was likely the connector, or the quality of the connection to the back of the outlet. The other hot side was fine. Will check for overheating this afternoon.
Thanks for your input!

-- Live to putter...putter to live!

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

4650 posts in 2229 days


#5 posted 01-22-2021 05:44 PM

I have that same unit, about the same age too! Runs my 220v/2 HP DC.

Timely post, my units socket keeps coming loose from the housing, as if one of the tabs has sheared off. The DC plug does produce a fair side load given the weight of the cord cantilevered out, but I like your idea of replacing the socket with a “real” unit.

The Faston type connectors used on items like these are prone to losing their tension if they ever get hot, which tends to cascade into your situation. Direct soldering or screw-clamp connections are the way to go.

My drum sander has a built in socket where the drum motor plugs in and it showed the same failure as yours. (1.5HP at 120V). I did a similar replacement with a much more substantial socket

View RCCinNC's profile

RCCinNC

471 posts in 1333 days


#6 posted 01-22-2021 06:22 PM



I have that same unit, about the same age too! Runs my 220v/2 HP DC.

Timely post, my units socket keeps coming loose from the housing, as if one of the tabs has sheared off. The DC plug does produce a fair side load given the weight of the cord cantilevered out, but I like your idea of replacing the socket with a “real” unit.

The Faston type connectors used on items like these are prone to losing their tension if they ever get hot, which tends to cascade into your situation. Direct soldering or screw-clamp connections are the way to go.

My drum sander has a built in socket where the drum motor plugs in and it showed the same failure as yours. (1.5HP at 120V). I did a similar replacement with a much more substantial socket

- splintergroup


Sounds exactly like what happened with mine. Makes me extra glad I posted this splintergroup! Have fun installing the standard outlet. There’s not a whole lot of room and even less wire to work with but it’s manageable.
Good Luck!

-- Live to putter...putter to live!

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splintergroup

4650 posts in 2229 days


#7 posted 01-22-2021 10:11 PM

Ok, I’ve been chomping at the bit to have a look-see into my Long Ranger III.

This is the slightly protruding socket, most likely caused by the stiff cord to the DC hanging out a bit

Well lo and behold!

Initial signs of heat/burning on the sockets internal Faston connections

Gonna fix this ASAP, thanks RCC! 8^)

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

4650 posts in 2229 days


#8 posted 01-22-2021 10:29 PM

Ocelot had the right idea, one of the contacts has slightly relaxed, which lessens its grip on the plug prong. The other side is fine, giving my cord a nice, secure, tight grip.

You can see the slight gap on the side that was beginning to overheat (right)

View RCCinNC's profile

RCCinNC

471 posts in 1333 days


#9 posted 01-22-2021 10:44 PM



Ocelot had the right idea, one of the contacts has slightly relaxed, which lessens its grip on the plug prong. The other side is fine, giving my cord a nice, secure, tight grip.

You can see the slight gap on the side that was beginning to overheat (right)

- splintergroup


Yay for team effort! You see inside the lid where they made accommodations for a proper outlet? Makes the job a bit easier. Thanks for the follow up splint. My, this certainly has been a learning experience…. ; )

-- Live to putter...putter to live!

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RCCinNC

471 posts in 1333 days


#10 posted 01-22-2021 10:46 PM

Pesojoshh. Please go away.

-- Live to putter...putter to live!

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

3372 posts in 3951 days


#11 posted 01-23-2021 07:38 AM

I have an auto start from another brand. It fires off a HF “2 hp” unit. It died about two years ago and, as I was getting ready to toss it, curiosity got the best of me, so I took it apart. It turned out it had crappy solder joints. I re-soldered them and that solved the problem. It’s been working longer than it did before the re-solder.

View RCCinNC's profile

RCCinNC

471 posts in 1333 days


#12 posted 01-23-2021 02:52 PM



I have an auto start from another brand. It fires off a HF “2 hp” unit. It died about two years ago and, as I was getting ready to toss it, curiosity got the best of me, so I took it apart. It turned out it had crappy solder joints. I re-soldered them and that solved the problem. It s been working longer than it did before the re-solder.

- Kelly


Which is why I hesitate to throw anything out….some people call it hoarding…; )

In my world, whatever it is, it can either be repaired or parted out and repurposed. It’s always a feel good moment when you can get something working again…and especially better than new, or create something using spare parts you saved from something else. I’ll bet you got more than just a working DC remote out of your repair Kelly. For me, there’s lots of pleasure in celebrating the little victories! ; )

-- Live to putter...putter to live!

View Dutchy's profile

Dutchy

3993 posts in 3175 days


#13 posted 01-24-2021 09:14 AM

I have read all above and I can’t resist asking you when in the USA they stop using the description HP on electric equipment. The disricption up to 3 HP does not actually say anything about the power consumption.

-- https://dutchypatterns.com/

View RCCinNC's profile

RCCinNC

471 posts in 1333 days


#14 posted 01-24-2021 02:50 PM



I have read all above and I can t resist asking you when in the USA they stop using the description HP on electric equipment. The disricption up to 3 HP does not actually say anything about the power consumption.

- Dutchy


Yeah…I know. I kept looking for an amp rating on the box but never found one. Seemed weird to me too….but then again it had an FCC certification but nothing else. Tmasondarnell from the first response says Amazon gives it a 16 amp rating. Whether or not that’s stated on the current model I’ve no idea.

-- Live to putter...putter to live!

View 75c's profile

75c

144 posts in 34 days


#15 posted 01-24-2021 03:26 PM

When you change your wall plug you might want to look at the replacement plug that is hospital garage. They are tighter fitting with more grip on the prongs that are inserted into it. Also what king of breaker box do you have. I have heard that some brands actually take more current to trip them than they are rated for.

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