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back of split table higher than front when clamped down

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Review by mehloyellow posted 06-02-2020 08:39 PM 3436 views 1 time favorited 17 comments Add to Favorites Watch
back of split table higher than front when clamped down No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

I’m a hobbyist and look to this site often for advice and help. I used the positive reviews of this site and others to in buying my band saw. I have an issue with a Laguna 14bx-220v band saw that I purchased a few weeks ago and need some advice.

I noticed that the back end of the split table was about 10 thousandths of an inch higher than the front when clamped down. (see attached picture) It’s enough to catch any thing being slid across the table when cutting. I read an older post or two here that other’s had the same issue and Laguna sent them a new table.

I contacted Laguna support and this is what they told me the following: ”I have two options for you right now hopefully one of these solves your issue. First I have attached a picture to this email. In it you should see the black handle on the front of your bandsaw ( circled in red)
loosen the handle push up on the table then tighten as you lift.The second option requires a little more work and a lot of patience. As we all know metal is malleable it bends and moves, what we’ve found out about these tables is that if you lay them on a hard flat surface face down for a couple of days the table will correct itself to within industry standard.”

Somehow this doesn’t make sense to me, being a cast iron table it should be sturdy and true to begin with. Isn’t that the benefit of cast iron. Does this make sense? I did tap the back end of the split table with a board and mallet and it it did flatten out while the split clamp was tight. But once I change blades, the back end of the table is again higher, requiring another tap with a board and mallet to make both sides of the split table even. Would appreciate any views on this.




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mehloyellow

7 posts in 1247 days



17 comments so far

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Rich

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#1 posted 06-02-2020 09:12 PM

Not sure why this is a review. You’ll get better feedback in a forum like the Power Tools Hardware and Accessories forum.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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ChuckV

3395 posts in 4641 days


#2 posted 06-02-2020 09:17 PM

In the photo, it looks like it is not that the two pieces of the table are misaligned. It looks like the front portion dips down starting about 2 1/2” in front of the slot. What do you see if you put the straightedge completely on the front portion of the table?

-- "Join the chorus if you can. It'll make of you an honest man." - I. Anderson

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mdhills

72 posts in 3747 days


#3 posted 06-03-2020 05:39 AM

Is there a pin to align the table halves?

or can you shim between the table and trunnion?

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LittleBlackDuck

7076 posts in 1935 days


#4 posted 06-03-2020 12:15 PM


Is there a pin to align the table halves?

or can you shim between the table and trunnion?

- mdhills


In keeping with md’s question, this is not that rare an ocurance… my table has a pin,

that aligns the table… it has to be hammered in “lightly” and some effort to extract for blade change.

I’m guessing Laguna’s option 1 is a more practical work-around, unless you want to fight a legal battle for a refund/replacement.

-- If your first cut is too short... Take the second cut from the longer end... LBD

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dschlic1

509 posts in 3084 days


#5 posted 06-03-2020 05:40 PM

Please note that cast iron is not a stable medium. It will warp and distort. Most of that warping occurs during the first few years after leaving the mold. That is why you see cast blanks setting out side machine shops. They leave the blanks out in the weather for a year or two to get most of the warping out before machining.

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Redoak49

5271 posts in 3103 days


#6 posted 06-03-2020 08:25 PM

The idea that cast iron is not a stable media is an often repeated comment. I know that this is a commonly believed and stated many times.

However, according to Wayne R. Moore in Foundations of Mechanical Accuracy it is rarely the fault of cast iron. More likely due to bad design, uneven cooling or other foundry ptactices. With uneven cooling, when one surface is machined the part is likely to warp.

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jbmaine

160 posts in 584 days


#7 posted 06-04-2020 12:51 AM

Actually cast iron and heat treated tool steel can move for some time after casting and or heat treating. Leaving the blanks sitting for a while before final machining is called seasoning. Buying precision tooling ( angle plates and the like), you would look for the manufacturer to state it was made out of” seasoned steel”. In this case it looks like the BS table was rushed. I would demand it be replaced .

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Redoak49

5271 posts in 3103 days


#8 posted 06-04-2020 11:49 AM

Can someone provide a technical reference concerning seasoned steel?

Improperly cast of heat treated metals can have significant internal stresses. When machined they can warp.

At room temperature, it is difficult to understand the mechanism for stress relief.

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CL810

4134 posts in 4102 days


#9 posted 06-05-2020 12:48 PM

I have this same band saw and had the same, but not as severe, problem. I was fortunate that the problem went away after a week or two of having the saw.

Mehlo, I suggest that you give Laguna’s advice a try.

-- "The only limits to our realization of tomorrow will be our doubts of today." - FDR

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mehloyellow

7 posts in 1247 days


#10 posted 06-05-2020 02:29 PM

Appreciate all the interest as I have now learned about cast iron and the need to be seasoned/stabilized. Never realized that was an issue. Yes i have taken Laguna’s advice and took the table off the band saw a few days ago and placed it upside down on my table saw table. Will leave it a few more days and then report back. Thanks again.

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mdhills

72 posts in 3747 days


#11 posted 06-10-2020 02:56 PM

Did setting the top upside-down help?

Matt

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mehloyellow

7 posts in 1247 days


#12 posted 06-10-2020 10:47 PM

I followed Laguna’s advice and laid the table upside down on my table saw for a week. I put it back on the saw this morning and but it didn’t make any material difference. Talked to Laguna support this morning and Laguna is going to send me another table. Thanks again for all the replies.

View benchtopper's profile

benchtopper

5 posts in 346 days


#13 posted 07-15-2020 01:01 PM

I had a similar issue with a new Rikon 10” bandsaw (10-3061). After tightening down the wing-nut/bolt designed to bring the two table “halves” together at the split, I measured 0.020” deviation from the left/right far edges to the split. Both halves were not co-planar, dipping down at the split. I was at first quite alarmed since the table top is cast steel and ground to a nice finish. I continued setting the saw up, and left the nut/bolt in place overnight. The next day I checked it again, and the two halves were nearly perfectly aligned, and co-planer. I wouldn’t have thought an overnight shake-down would fix the problem, but it did. Did Laguna’s recommendation work for you?

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mehloyellow

7 posts in 1247 days


#14 posted 07-26-2020 03:28 PM

Laguna’s recommendation didn’t work. They sent me a new table about a month ago. New table was better—only about 2 thousandths of a difference. It’s still that way but can tap it lightly with a mallet after changing a blade and it evens out. What’s odd is that both tables were perfectly flat before installed.

View JasonMak's profile

JasonMak

4 posts in 373 days


#15 posted 07-26-2020 10:07 PM

I also recently purchased this bandsaw and am experiencing the same issue and so far Laguna support has been terrible. The two sections are pretty much coplanar near the bolt that holds them together but as you get near the blade there’s a huge discrepancy that the wood hangs on.
Have you checked the flatness of the aluminum fence? The fence is 5.5” tall and mine is off by .019” top to bottom. Trouble call has been over a week and they don’t have a solution for me.
Also, I noticed when setting the table at zero there’s flex in the table & trunion and when you set a board or weight on the outboard section of the table you can see it flex and if you look under the table at the zero adjustment foot, you can see it lifting off. I found I had to loosen the two adjustment handles and push down on the inboard side of table with left hand, use shoulder to push up and outboard on the underside of table and use my right hand to tighten the two adjustment handles – then it wouldn’t flex outward and away from zero.
Not impressed with the quality of the bandsaw or their customer service. I feel like this is pretty much the state of all these large shop tools these days. Little to no innovation and shoddy quality controls.

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