LumberJocks

Rockler Fence Flip Stop Does Not Work

  • Advertise with us
Review by CaptainKlutz posted 01-21-2019 10:08 PM 2715 views 0 times favorited 12 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Rockler Fence Flip Stop Does Not Work Rockler Fence Flip Stop Does Not Work Rockler Fence Flip Stop Does Not Work Click the pictures to enlarge them

Summary: This flip stop is not accurate or repeatable, purchase not recommended.

It only earns 1 star, due fact that you can still use it a little (and forums won’t let me use zero star).
You can tighten the flip stop bolt snug and at least use it as fixed stop that doesn’t flip – you have to remove it when you don’t want to use it. :-(

Bought the #53648 Rockler Drill Press Fence awhile back, and it came with this flip stop. I almost never use the flip stop on drill press and decided to re-purpose it for a table saw miter fence to cut lap joints. Simple enough, both use Rockler extruded aluminum fences, and use same T-Track dimensions.

While this flip stop might appear to be thoughtful design, the execution by mfg is horrible. The flip pivot bolt will not stay tight. It gets lose as you flip, and requires constant tightening. Too tight and it won’t flip anymore.

The boss on the bottom of stop block is also too wide for t-track. There is enough side to side motion in every T-Track I checked that it is very hard to lock the stop exactly 90 degrees to t-track and fence.

The biggest issue is: as the pivot bolt gets lose, the stop dimension moves.

.
If you look at pictures above, you can see that the stop is not square to fence when as you push board to either side.

I tore the stop apart to see if it I could ‘fix’ it:

.
There are two glaring issues:

1) The threads for the pivot bolt are anodized. The bolt uses thread lock to keep it fixed, but enable pivot. Blue thread lock will not adhere to anodized aluminum. If they had used permanent green version of thread lock, this might work. Best option is to cut threads after anodize.
This can be ‘fixed’ by etching the threads with caustic or acid, which is not something most can do at home. I attempted to chase the threads with same size tap, and it did nothing. The anodize process etches and removes several thousands of metal, and now need an oversize tap to remove surface and clean threads. :-(

2) The pivot arm uses a tapered seat for metal washer under the pivot bolt head.
Wrong again. All that happens is steel washer digs a groove in to softer alumumin and makes the pivot bolt loose. Flip stop operation can sort of be restored (with very stiff movement) by adding a plastic washer between the arm and metal washer. But without suitable thread lock, the bolt till gets loose after a dozen or so flips.

Bottom line: Another Rockler innovation that is useless. Do not rely on this flip stop for consistent or square stop position in your wood working. You are better off making one from BB plywood and jig bolt.

I really hate posting a review this negative on anything, but this junk fence stop created many problems when attempted to use it as advertised, and do not want anyone else to have same issues.

Thanks for reading.

-- If it wasn't for bad luck, I wouldn't have no luck at all, - Albert King - Born Under a Bad Sign released 1967




View CaptainKlutz's profile

CaptainKlutz

3041 posts in 2234 days



12 comments so far

View Peteybadboy's profile

Peteybadboy

1878 posts in 2689 days


#1 posted 01-21-2019 10:40 PM

i agree when pressed the stop moves too much

-- Petey

View Arcola60's profile

Arcola60

106 posts in 3123 days


#2 posted 01-22-2019 12:31 AM

The actual flip stop should rotate on a “body” bolt not threads, too sloppy. It should be captured with some retaining clip, to remove the side to side slop. It is not a precision, repeatable designed accessory.

View Bobthewoodbutcher's profile

Bobthewoodbutcher

31 posts in 1849 days


#3 posted 01-22-2019 04:41 AM

Same problem here. I have this stop on my cross cut sled, and it is barely useable as long as you always put pressure on in one direction. Very sloppy indeed. I don’t use it for any accurate work.

View edapp's profile

edapp

340 posts in 2169 days


#4 posted 01-22-2019 12:58 PM

I have the Kreg version of this on my miter saw, and the Incra version on my table saw. I have been happy with both, and prefer the kreg (quick, easy adjustments, magnified cursor) where it is and the Incra (very fine adjustments possible, very securely locks down) where it is.

Wouldn’t change a thing.

View ChuckV's profile

ChuckV

3304 posts in 4267 days


#5 posted 01-22-2019 08:12 PM

This is interesting enough that I ventured out to my frigid shop with a camera. I think that this could be a case of “New and Improved and a Whole Lot Worse.”

I got my stop from Rockler 10 or 11 years ago. It has always been solid. This review made me curious. Before doing anything, I flipped it up and down 50 times.

Here it is with no sideways pressure:

Here it is with more sideways pressure than I would ever use

One difference that I notice is the shape of the surface that meets the track. This probably does not relate you your problem of the slop in the pivoting area, but it still seems better on my old one.

Here is yours:

Here is mine:

Yours is more beveled on the bottom edges leaving less surface to contact the T-track than mine. Here is mine on the track:

Also, mine seems to have faded. Maybe they improved the anodizing process and broke the functionality! If you want to do something worse than poorly design a product, you should “upgrade” and ruin a working one.

-- “Big man, pig man, ha ha, charade you are.” ― R. Waters

View Desert_Woodworker's profile

Desert_Woodworker

2533 posts in 1954 days


#6 posted 01-24-2019 01:30 AM

Thanks, Chuck for the info
Oh and a nice review…

-- Desert_Woodworker

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

9523 posts in 3068 days


#7 posted 01-30-2019 04:24 AM

To get a tight fitting and accurate boss to slide in the track you have to machine it. Using the extruded aluminum part as is …..is in my humble opinion… inexcusable.

As with many extruding and molding operations, there are many process variables that will affect the final geometry. And get this news flash! Variables vary from one day to the next.

If you have a dimension critical to the function of the mechanism you machine it…. period.

Sloppy execution of what should be a simple and straight forward design. These retail moguls presume a lot when they venture into specifying designs for production. You can’t outsource your details to China. They are more than happy to tell you the spec is good enough and ship you the least compliant part possible.

-- Matt -- I yam what I yam and that's all what I yam

View dday's profile

dday

174 posts in 2169 days


#8 posted 01-30-2019 05:57 PM

I understand the machining reference.. but when I purchase something the is manufactured to standard tolerances to fit a t-track, it should fit the t-track sufficiently to work correctly, otherwise, I will return it.

If it comes like a piece for handgun and final fitting is required, then it should say so and be priced accordingly.

View Pop's profile

Pop

433 posts in 4686 days


#9 posted 01-31-2019 07:25 PM

I think my Kreg stops have it beat.

Pop Golden

-- One who works with his hands is a laborer, his hands & head A craftsman, his hands, head & heart a artist

View WoodenDreams's profile

WoodenDreams

1038 posts in 651 days


#10 posted 02-06-2019 12:06 AM

I have two of these, and I don’t measure from the top of the fence, I always measure from the table side. I’ve had no problems.

View pottz's profile

pottz

9526 posts in 1724 days


#11 posted 03-05-2019 06:43 PM

i have two, one on each side of my saw and have not had any issues so far,the are both solid with no slop.i bought about 2 years ago.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

5598 posts in 1314 days


#12 posted 07-15-2019 04:48 AM

The problem with setting a bolt into T track, is the bolt heads want to move as you tighten them, plus they don’t want to get tight.

This is clearly a money issue, until you make a saddle of wood that straddles your fence, and locks to the fence itself. At the cheaper end like this Rockler entry it just uses less expensive pieces, but the issue is the locking, and it moves when tightening, and if not torqued down will move a bit. 1/4 20 bolt, instead of something more robust.

Kregs is slightly better, twice the price.

Incras is likely the best of the retail sold versions, again $$$$$ about twice the Kreg. Still 1/4 20 tightening, but uses 2 contact points, so much more secure, with a lot less pressure.

To make a straddle fence, it’s about 3 bux of scrap wood, and a bolt. Or just a straddle fence, and set it where you want, and put on a clamp to the off side to limit the fences movement. No flipper, you just take it off, set it tight to where you want it. Works the best too. Plus you save more, because it works as well on just a wooden board fence, as it does on the expensive extruded variety.

I find when I am cutting to exact length, I do it for all the pieces near the end of the build, so it’s either on, or off for me, and when it’s on sliding it up and down the fence to your precise set point couldn’t be easier. Lock it tight, and relax as you make perfect cuts.

Something like this.

-- Think safe, be safe

Have your say...

You must be signed in to post the comments.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com