LumberJocks

Grizzly benchtop bandsaw... some good, lotta bad & mostly ugly...

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Review by blistersonmyfingers posted 12-29-2018 11:22 PM 5721 views 0 times favorited 41 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Grizzly benchtop bandsaw... some good, lotta bad & mostly ugly... No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

So for Christmas/Birthday (wee holiday birthday…), I asked for a small bandsaw, and, due to some mistakes/misinterpretations – some my fault / mistakes too if I’m honest – I ended up with one of these Grizzly little benchtop jobs.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-9-Benchtop-Bandsaw/G0803

For those who know the deal – this is “that same model” thats made in probably a couple different Chinese factories, rebranded under about 100 names from legacy-Western brands to ‘generic’ brands, and are all essentially the same sold everywhere for between $100-something and $200-something. Although some small bits will differ in design and materials from one model to the next including motor or table or fences etc. they are all really the same thing.

Well… I really thought this would be “OK for whatever purposes”, but… boy oh boy is this thing a steaming pile of dog mess. The fact that the Grizzly is supposedly a little better than some others boggles my mind although I suppose the doors are metal. That’s about the only thing that looks a little worse on some of the others, but damn I’d trade plastic doors for some of the other things to be fixed…

Pros:
- Metal doors
- Overall metal frame is pretty sturdy.
- Not absolutely terribly setup out of the box. Ran pretty straight etc. Guide bearings not adjusted great but more on that later. Otherwise yes it ran and the blade didn’t fly off.
- Umm. Lets try to think of something else nice to say. Runs smooth and quiet as long as guide bearings aren’t any where near touching the blade maybe?

Cons:
- Terrible spot welds and metal work. Rough evidence of factory line mistake-trimming.
- Plastic plastic plastic. Crappy plastic with rough flashing mess on them for lots of stuff.
- Incredibly terrible sloppy / flawed castings for the metal upper guide bearing blocks/holders, which… combined with
- Plastic upper guide post (the whole vertical post going up into the upper housing that holds the guide bearings) that is flimsy and crappy, and, combined with previous item, makes for…
- Nearly impossible to adjust the upper guide bearings. As soon as you snug them down, the rough cast shapes and plastic crap guide post just wander all over, and then the bearings are too tight and it hums like crazy. Or they wandered completely loose with too much clearance and don’t do anything to stablize the blade.
- Truly truly stupid work light on the back that is impossible to put on the work in any way that isn’t in your eyes and/or casting a shadow RIGHT on the workpiece. Oh and my worklight didn’t work at first, so theres probably some intermittent connection that will crap out eventually.
- Cheezy table. Cheezy fence accessories. Miter gauge that’s a complete toy joke. Some of the other brand versions look much better table-wise, though I’ll grant some might be worse.
- Fence clamp doesn’t have even the slightest cheap plastic covering on the open extrusion shape ends to give it a modicum of decent appearance. Makes the cheap HFT tools I’ve ever owned look “totally fine”, and the old cheapo Ryobi router table I used to have appear to be a finely finished elite product. Screams “did this part fall off, or did you forget to put it on?” when you look at it. Nope that’s how its supposed to be.
- Minor things don’t match the manual pix / descriptions, in some cases appears to be cost cutting aka the current stuff doesnt look quite as good as it used to be. For instance underneath mounting posts of the table for the fence rail.
- A bunch of places are missing washers. Not like they are “in the parts list but missing in the box” but just places where any reasonable person would put a washer, say, under a plastic T-bolt handle, instead of having the plastic of the handle-shank just tighten directly up against the parts of the machine. Or between an adjuster knob and a spring and the housing to keep the spring from binding and making noise (I’ve already added probably 8 washers with more to come).

Bottom Line:

I would give this 1-star but I guess I have to admit it could be worse. And it is a $200 cheap tool. Let me be clear, I love a good cheap “does the job for the budget I can afford” Chinese product… I got plenty of those things as well as other things that are proper expensive and nice. But still. A couple of the other $200-ish versions decidedly look better (although some look worse too!). I still think this one really should be off anyones buy-list. Probably I’d prefer to give it 1.5 stars.

So…

Basically I got it rough setup but then decided the plastic guide post and crappy bearing holders were so incredibly crap that I couldn’t live with it for one day… Briefly I checked into Grizzly return policies but looks like they’d deduct outward AND return shipping, leaving me with probably a whole $25 in credit, so… Time for plan B.

Here’s the current plan.
1. Try to fabricate and/or retrofit a metal guide post (or metal face the plastic one maybe?) and fix the upper guide bearing setup (grind the flashing and flaws off the castings? Or replace with new blocks?) without spending so much $$$ that I could just buy another better bandsaw.
2. Drill a hole in the top/side/front/TBD and move that stupid backlight someplace useful for the 5 uses before it breaks.
3. Add more washers, and polish more crappy edges, and use some extra lube, and try to get the controls and all the parts to work together more smoothly.
4. Throw it in the metal recycling junkpile at my trash station when none of the above works. ;^)

I’ll come back in here and report more and add photos when I have time.

OK PICTURE TRY #5 or whatever it is…

YAY IT WORKS! It was indeed “( )” characters in the filenames it seems.

On to pictures.

Here’s the fence with the open extrusions. Not a functional problem just an embarassingly cheap look.

Here’s the cheap table. Pretty similar to what you’d find in a $100 cheapy table saw / router mini-table etc. from the big box stores. Some of the versions of this same saw look to have better tables. If I WAS to try another version of this saw, the table/fence would be the second priority to try to find a better version of.

Plastic retainers for the doors. OK fine I guess but you can see the poor plastic quality. Super soft (brand new and already getting worn from use) and poor castings (every plastic part has loads of flashing on it… some I’ll attend to but not everything).

Here’s the ridiculous back-light. No way to get it around to the front, when turned on it creates a shadow right over the most critical work-blade area.

On one hand, this is easily fixed as you’ll see later. On the other, on my saw the light was intermittent right out of the box with more than one cause to the lighting problem. Again more on that later.

More on the poor table – that’s not just glops of powdercoat (although some certainly is), that’s actually also a lot of rough metal casting on the front edge that you have to look at all the time. I’ve since sanded it flat with a block and it showed dramatically how rough the metal casting is as you see how many metal flaws stand proud of the flat PC surface that should be the real edge.

Some dings at the top of the frame. Doesn’t come out 100% but its pretty wavy sheet metal, like the parts are all pretty bent up and banged up before they get tacked together and powdercoated. Now again, the chassis itself IS sturdy so thats going to be cosmetic only I think.. but… for sure a ‘get what you don’t pay for’ situation.

And how we get to the real bummer. This is the flimsy plastic upright guide post with the 3 guide bearings.

Lots of flashing on any edges/corners, warpage along many sections/areas.

Here you can see where the guide bearing supports go into the post. You can see how tremendously sloppy the clearances are. Between that slop, and, the fact that the plastic squishes and warps when you try to tighten the retaining bolts, its almost impossible to adjust with any normal reasonable process. To get it to work and align up reasonably you’d have to almost trial-and-error random repetitions until the ‘creep and wander’ lucked into putting each bearing where you wanted it.

Here’s a look at what should be the ‘true’ face for sliding up and down the frame. I think it comes super warped right out of the mold/machining process. From repeated examinations I suspect they cast the part, then do a rough re-surface milling on a couple of faces, but that it warps and creeps while being reworked, and so when it returns to shape, its now not true.

And heres the other problem. Not sure if its visible enough here but this is the guide bearing post. The shaft of the post has big messy casting glops and voids. OK the voids probably you can live with but the blobs make for ‘pivot points’ once you try to clamp it down that really encourage the post to wander all over. If you clamp it hard enough the knobs probably will emboss themselves into the plastic, but then you’re locked into a single spot and can’t get any micro adjustment.

I have already filed the mess off this pin but the key will be figuring out what to mount it in instead of the plastic disaster that is the factory post!

Addendum – Similar Offshore Saws:

Thought it might be useful to compile quick list of saws that appear to be based on the same platform. Indeed knowing how this works overseas, it might not be just one factory that makes these (after all they’ll copy each other just as easily as copying a Western design) but at any rate, they are all copies/clones or same-factory-variants of the same core design:

9” Versions – Some of these indeed worse than the Grizzler- no roller guides at all, only block guides:
Wen 3939
Porter-Cable PCXB310BS
Craftsman BAS230
Ryobi BS903, BS904G (BS904G nearly identical minus the light)
Central Machinery / HFT 96980, 60500
Powertec BS900

There are indeed some other (sub?) ‘entry level’ 9” bandsaws that are not essentially the exact same design – Skil, Delta etc. that have different chassis/frame and therefore I’d say need to be evaluated separately.

10” Versions – While these are nearly identical design, they are scaled up a little and most of these indeed look notably better – aluminum guide posts and much nicer looking fences and tables:
Wen 3962
Rikon 10-305
Craftsman 921400
JET JWB-10

MOD REPORT #1:

So – turning from critical to creative and constructive, after a hell of a few days of other crap getting in the way, I finally got some time to get back to the saw.

First easy order of business was going to be the light.

The light very obviously bolts through the backpanel, what is less obvious is that there’s an “LED Driver” module that bolts up inside the left-side box-frame that it is wired to. To fully remove the light you need to remove a bolt that retains that little module, drop it down out the switch-block hole, then release the 2 wires for the light itself.

You can also see that the factory wiring process inside is wire-nuts and electrical tape. Hmmm. Normally you’d expect some industrial grade crimp splices on the wires there but.. OK. Doubt if they are getting any ISO or UL certifications anytime soon but… Had a look and checked security and didn’t seem dangerous to me so… leave it as is.

Once the light was out I played around with potential mounting locations. The top surface seemed to be the most obvious/best place, and after deliberation, I decided I could live without the lift handle and that would be the best place to remount the lamp. The advantage of that is that there is enough factory wire to move it with no splicing required. Plenty of lamp stalk to allow you to adjust the light where it is needed on the front.

Nicely, there is a hole drilled right inside the upper chamber into the left box frame rail – right there for the wire, almost as if it was designed to be there.

So all that required was one big hole drilled through the top for the stalk itself. Took 4 drill size passes and it was done.

As an aside the unit has several unused bolt holes in various locations that I guess are used by the accessories or configurations of different branded variants. So far I’ve not used any of the other ones or figured out what they were for, but perhaps this hole is indeed for a different saw with a different lamp configuration.

Now if one wanted to retain the handle, you could easily mount the lamp on the middle or right side, just taking care to secure the wires back against the back-wall away from the wheel. The other consideration MIGHT be for some people who want to lift this down and store it in a shelf or cabinet someplace with low headroom, the lamp might get in the way and need to be bent down… I think you could also consider putting it on the right side end, but then of course you’d need more room on the side instead of top…

Anyway, all things considered, I decided this was the best location and mounted it up there. Came out GREAT! Get it all installed and…

No light.

OK… long story short, diagnose, voltage test, inspect… turns out the lamp-side wires going into the module (the ones I had to remove and replace to move the lamp) are crimped onto some pins, and indeed savagely over-crimped by some gorilla at the Chinese factory causing the copper to be nicked and making those wires…

Basically fall right off after a little moving around. My first problem was actually only one side but in going in to fix that one the other broke off too… leaving me with…

Hmmm wonder why it don’t work!?

Alright that was also easy fixed… although time starting to add up now… But just stripped back wires and tinned with solder and all was better than new.

Oh yeah and the plastic mounting tab on the module busted off… thankfully theres a second one on the bottom that for now is still “hanging in there…” I’m praying that never has to be pulled apart again… and so then…

VOILA. Let there be light-right-where-you-want-it.

Brilliant, right!?

Without the wiring hitch this mod would have taken me no more than 1/2 hr and anybody who has this saw should go do this right away. Its super easy and works perfect. Just of course observe all proper electrical safety blah blah stuffs.

And so would we want our happy story to end for today.

But I fear the Chinese Dragon Gods have other plans for us.

Turns out… remember I said the light was intermittent out of the box? At first I figured it was the crimp-pins breaking and having intermittent connections… but no indeed.

Stone cold you could turn the light on for about 1-2 minutes, then it would go out. Then flicker on again in 20-30 seconds. Then off again. Wiggling wouldn’t get it to come back on, you just had to wait and it’d flicker back on again.

After a much longer diagnosis and inspection and rework process the lamp-head LED module is a real cheap unit. Its a “COB bead” type lamp on a little star shaped PCB, which is pressed (not glued, just pressure fit) over a real crappy piece of aluminum as a heat sink with some thermal paste. The bead is supposed to transfer its heat through its PCB into the alu sink which is supposed to vent through the head of the lamp to keep everything cool as it needs to be.

Now at first I thought one wire to the PCB had a poor solder connection. It may have. This lamp may have indeed had 3 failure modes. But that was still not the solution.

These beads tend to have some built in thermal management so for a while they can keep themselves from burning up by shutting off. That’s what was happening with mine. This was easily proven by turning the light on and blowing on the LED and heatsink while it was off. Comes right back on again (until you need to take another breath!)

I tried some extra/better thermal paste on the back but wasn’t good enuff. Tried fiddlign with the ‘heat sink’ to no avail. Eventually it stopped working at all, either I blew it up from resoldering temps, or, more likely it just burned itself out.

The problem here is likely the PCB star board and that the bead wasn’t soldered down flat onto it to transfer all its heat away efficiently enough. Either that or the sink just isn’t big enough, however it really looks like it should work at least when the whole head is opened up like in that pic (another problem is likely the vents in the lamp head aren’t big enough).

Plan B.3 for Project Lamplight is now to obtain a new LED head, hopefully a better constructed one, and replace the dead thing in there. Pretty sure I can get it to work. I also have some more sophisticated IC heatsinks and I may try to fit a baby one of those on the backside of the ridiculous factory aluiminum thing to help it out. I have to keep the factory alum thing because its the back-support for the lamp assembly itself but I think that’ll be doable. I may clip some of the arms off it. to make room for the new sink but we’ll see when we get there. Step one is to source another LED head.

If that doesn’t work plan B.4 could be replacing the whole flex-arm. Of course I could run an AC lamp arm there too easily although I like the idea of low amp LED honestly and the factory light was working great for the 1 minute or so you could use it.

OK… that’s it for now…. Further updates coming as progress allows…

MOD REPORT #2:

Real minor one this time. While waiting for other parts to dribble in I decided to at least tackle the rough finish on the table.

It doesnt really photograph well but the table surface is really rough, with a pretty deep vertical groove pattern in it, that for sure would impair moving pieces around for curved cuts, and even likely causing scratches and the like. Also it was dirty and had a little bit of stain from some grease or oil or something being dripped onto it and caught in the grooves so it wouldn’t wipe up too easily.

Seemed like an easy task to resurface, and it was. I had an old cheapo Ryobi router ‘bench-table’ once that was like this and had similar luck so I knew it should work pretty well. All it takes is a series of grits on a RO sander, working across the face, get the pattern out first, then polish it down a little bit…

“But wait blisterbozo!” you say… “you’ll never get that surface true by hand! who knows what kind of concave/convex surface you’ll end up with trying to do it with a hand RO sander?”. Sure. Absolutely. Were this any kind of precision table I’d either have used a different approach, or not messed with it, but, tossin’ the straight edge on this thing revealed immediately that it was pre-factory-warpy anyway, and this could only improve things… AND.. .from having done this before, I knew that the results would be pretty good as long as I was careful to finish passes and resist urge to bear down on the deepest flaws.

Actually turned out to require more work than expected, the factory grooved surface is DEEP, and then as I sanded it, the factory flatness-flaws emerged and of course then I had to keep going to get it all uniform. Here you can see a little where the factory casting has some dips that are not sanded out yet so I had to bring the whole table down to the same level.

Here you can see partway through the 80 grit, mostly finished but the deepest factory flaws are still evident – took forever to bring the whole table down to their level…

End result here, after 220G and a coat of wax. Pretty good. Or at least much much better.




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blistersonmyfingers

30 posts in 1456 days



41 comments so far

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

5664 posts in 3725 days


#1 posted 12-30-2018 01:06 AM

Looking at the online instruction manual, it sure has a lot of parts for such a small saw. The HF saw looks identical for $60 less.

View Desert_Woodworker's profile

Desert_Woodworker

1870 posts in 1696 days


#2 posted 12-30-2018 02:54 AM

Let it be known… Great information to others.

Until I read the end.
“Well I tried to add photos but the weirdo LumberJocks “not like any other tag system ever” ! tags doesn’t like my URLs – which are for sure 100% fine -, so. No pix for you!”

When you attack this site it is like attacking us Lumber Jocks individually.
Off my watch

-- Desert_Woodworker

View blistersonmyfingers's profile

blistersonmyfingers

30 posts in 1456 days


#3 posted 12-30-2018 03:32 AM


When you attack this site it is like attacking us Lumber Jocks individually.

Ha ha ha! No! No it is not!

Loosen yer red hat bro it’s restrictIng the brainular blood flow.

1. I didn’t attack LJ at all I made a half joke half complaint about what is really probably a small bug.
2. Don’t be so sensie there trigger boy. It ain’t “attacking you individually”

View Rich's profile

Rich

4832 posts in 1071 days


#4 posted 12-30-2018 05:23 AM


Ha ha ha! No! No it is not!

Loosen yer red hat bro it’s restrictIng the brainular blood flow.

1. I didn’t attack LJ at all I made a half joke half complaint about what is really probably a small bug.
2. Don’t be so sensie there trigger boy. It ain’t “attacking you individually”

- blistersonmyfingers

Back off DW, sport. He’s a stand up guy, which right now is more than I can say for you.

You show up after 20 posts, zero projects and zero blog posts, badmouthing a tool that has a 5 star rating with nearly 190 reviews on the Grizzly site. Sorry but that doesn’t carry much weight.

-- There's no such thing as a careless electrician

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

1216 posts in 2021 days


#5 posted 12-30-2018 03:45 PM


Ha ha ha! No! No it is not!

Loosen yer red hat bro it’s restrictIng the brainular blood flow.

1. I didn’t attack LJ at all I made a half joke half complaint about what is really probably a small bug.
2. Don’t be so sensie there trigger boy. It ain’t “attacking you individually”

- blistersonmyfingers

Back off DW, sport. He s a stand up guy, which right now is more than I can say for you.

You show up after 20 posts, zero projects and zero blog posts, badmouthing a tool that has a 5 star rating with nearly 190 reviews on the Grizzly site. Sorry but that doesn t carry much weight.

- Rich

Don’t put too much weight on reviews on any manufacturer’s website. There have been too many incidents of disappearing negative reviews on so many of them. Need to compile from many different places to get the whole picture, so I refrain from any judgement on how good this bandsaw “should” be.

Blisters,
The one photo does show some problems, but maybe you can try to post all the photos of the cons you describe. That would definitely help other LJ’s see how bad it really is/was and maybe Grizzly can assist in getting it replaced at their cost…hopefully.

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blistersonmyfingers

30 posts in 1456 days


#6 posted 12-30-2018 04:04 PM

Yeah I tried by it didn’t like my link. My silly passing remark which was not REALLY at all SUBSTANTIALLY critical of LJ that got the ultra sensitive guys so overly heated up was because indeed I was trying to post 4-5 more photos of the stuff I talked about. Using ”!” as a pic tag IS a weirdo standard. Its not a major issue. I’m not saying people here are horrible or that that the proprietors are evil people, just that it is non-standard/odd, and, my picture links which are 100% ‘fine’ in a browser, don’t seem to work with it.

I REALLY didn’t expect to see a “we don’t like criticism around here if you can’t say something nice don’t say antyhing at all” approach. OK. I’ve really only participated (have lurked alot…) on one table saw thread here but everybody there seemed cool and if anybody bothered to actually LOOK instead of take one guys word that I’m just a mean old hater grouch (part of the post above was trying to make a poor review at least amusing to read by the way aka “step 4” is joking people) they would see that I posted a lot of significant contributing content into that thread including detailed tips and information and advice and question answers blah blah blah, so I ain’t a “don’t contribute nothing n00b hater who just comes in to crap on stuff”. The whole idea here with THIS review is indeed to help anybody else from being surprised like I was.

Anyway, I’ll see if I can work it out. My file names had parentheses characters, perhaps thats what the issue was? I do plan to keep updating the thread if I can find some good ways to mod and improve it. Thats really the other big reason I even bothered to start this.

View Manitario's profile

Manitario

2778 posts in 3365 days


#7 posted 12-30-2018 06:33 PM

Your review was fine, and appreciated. I find the critical reviews more helpful than the “everything is great” reviews. Please ignore the negativity by some of the posters, there’s still a lot of us on LJ’s that are friendly, despite the vocal minority.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

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Rich

4832 posts in 1071 days


#8 posted 12-30-2018 06:44 PM


Your review was fine, and appreciated. I find the critical reviews more helpful than the “everything is great” reviews. Please ignore the negativity by some of the posters, there s still a lot of us on LJ s that are friendly, despite the vocal minority.

- Manitario

Read the thread. Pay close attention to post #3 where the OP attacks Desert_Woodworker, calling him “trigger boy” and making other snide comments to and about him. Whether you feel DW is being too sensitive about an attack on the site being an attack on individuals or not, that’s no excuse to start insulting and name calling like the OP did.

DW is a great guy and undeserving of the snotty comments from the OP. So, if you want to talk about negativity, talk to the OP.

-- There's no such thing as a careless electrician

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Manitario

2778 posts in 3365 days


#9 posted 12-30-2018 06:52 PM

I agree with the OP assessment of DW’s behaviour. He took something personally that doesn’t at all seem like a personal remark (the LJ site is weird sometimes and doesn’t accept pics) and posted an insulting reply. “Great guys” don’t just immediately jump to the worst possible assumption about a post and jump down the throat of the poster.

-- Sometimes the creative process requires foul language. -- Charles Neil

View blistersonmyfingers's profile

blistersonmyfingers

30 posts in 1456 days


#10 posted 12-30-2018 06:57 PM


Your review was fine, and appreciated. I find the critical reviews more helpful than the “everything is great” reviews. Please ignore the negativity by some of the posters, there s still a lot of us on LJ s that are friendly, despite the vocal minority.

- Manitario

Thanks man. I was shocked to get heat for the review and even have reread it like 4x and don’t see what got the guy heated. I’ve read TONS of reviews or posts here that are much worse and the typical “THAT THING IS CHINESE JUNK BECAUSE EVERYTHING FROM CHINA IS JUNK”... I for sure did try to be objective and ensure I tried to find good things about it, Pros/Cons… Coulda given a 1 star but I didn’t and explained why… I jes dunno…


Read the thread. Pay close attention to post #3 where the OP attacks Desert_Woodworker, calling him “trigger boy” and making other snide comments to and about him. Whether you feel DW is being too sensitive about an attack on the site being an attack on individuals or not, that s no excuse to start insulting and name calling like the OP did.

OK – fair call and for sure I apologize for that.

However – he did come at me first, hard and unpleasant, for no actual real reason, so it wasn’t completely out of the blue like you make it sound, and this seems like the old “oh if my bud punches you in the face and you hit him back then YOU are the jerk” defense… but…

Yes indeed he caught me at the end of a long bad stressful day and I impulsively snapped back and that was totally uncalled for.

Shoudla been the better man etc. etc. and was not. Sorry to all, including the fine, esteemed and accomplished “DW”. Bygones then.

If this forum was different I would delete / edit that post and replace it with something to the effect of “unhelpful unpleasant retorts redacted” but obviously there’s the ‘60 minute lockdown’ feature here so no-can-do. <<< ( not criticizing the site!!) ;^) < (and that is an “emoji” signifying a “wink” meaning “trying to joke and be lighthearted” just like in the OP..!)

View Rich's profile

Rich

4832 posts in 1071 days


#11 posted 12-30-2018 07:20 PM


I agree with the OP assessment of DW s behaviour. He took something personally that doesn t at all seem like a personal remark (the LJ site is weird sometimes and doesn t accept pics) and posted an insulting reply. “Great guys” don t just immediately jump to the worst possible assumption about a post and jump down the throat of the poster.

- Manitario

So, you approve of calling someone “trigger boy” and making other snide remarks? Interesting.

-- There's no such thing as a careless electrician

View Rich's profile

Rich

4832 posts in 1071 days


#12 posted 12-30-2018 07:22 PM


Shoudla been the better man etc. etc. and was not. Sorry to all, including the fine, esteemed and accomplished “DW”. Bygones then.

- blistersonmyfingers

Bygones it is.

-- There's no such thing as a careless electrician

View ChuckV's profile

ChuckV

3229 posts in 4009 days


#13 posted 12-30-2018 08:59 PM

blistersonmyfingers,

How are you trying to add your images? It kind of seems like you are trying to create the link by hand. Have you tried clicking the “img” button and then specifying your image location, like this?

-- “Big man, pig man, ha ha, charade you are.” ― R. Waters

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

4143 posts in 2470 days


#14 posted 12-30-2018 09:45 PM

I think when you buy a cheap saw you can not expect too much. Too bad it is almost unusable. I bought the 10” Rikon and have no problems at all with it.

I also do not understand the problems people talk about with posting pictures. I add them with the image button and no problems. Seems the OP was trying some other method for posting pictures and did not work well. Cricket posted a good blog on how to post pictures.

I love “poison apologies” when someone apologizes and then justifies what they did negating the apology.

View jamsomito's profile

jamsomito

433 posts in 908 days


#15 posted 12-30-2018 10:52 PM

I agree the way the site handles pics is different and not ideal. But it works fine with some (minimal) effort.

I came for the saw review, which was good, but then got worked up over a spat between members. Both guys said stupid things. Can we leave it behind us and talk about the saw? I’m pretty sure that’s why we’re all here in the first place.

I was considering the rikon variant of this saw a year or two ago and decided to double my budget for the g0555. Seems to have been a solid decision. Curious to see your work arounds, OP.

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