Kreg hinge jig ok with one major annoying flaw

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Review by Mike_D_S posted 04-09-2018 03:24 AM 5905 views 0 times favorited 5 comments Add to Favorites Watch
Kreg hinge jig ok with one major annoying flaw No-picture-s No-picture-s Click the pictures to enlarge them

So I had a home made jig for installing concealed hinges that i managed to misplace. I happened to be in the Woodcraft and saw the Kreg jig, so i figured I’d give it a try as the price was pretty good.

So after installing a dozen doors worth of hinges, I have some hints and one major gripe about the jig.

The good:
It’s easy to use. The guide keeps the forstner bit perpendicular with out much effort.
Consistent placement is easy to achieve.
The price is right.

The hints:
Keep two drills handy, one with the bit for the screw pile holes and one for the forstner.
I found the old school non-auto Kreg face clamps to be easier. Adjust them with just enough tension to hold the jig in place.
This might depend on the wood, but the bit produced some big shavings which tended to clog the openings in the guide cage. I found backing the bit out a little once or twice helped to clear the shavings when drilling the cup holes.

The really annoying:
The jig is designed to work with concealed hinges requiring a 1/2” cup, meaning that the thinnest door you could possible use this with would be about 5/8” minimum and one could expect 3/4 typical. The setback cams only stick out the bottom of the jig about 1/4”. So if you’re like me and you tend to do the hinges last after routing the door lip profile, you can easily end up with the finger pull recess being taller than 1/4”. This means that you can’t just slide the jig up to the edge as it can register against the routed curve of the finger pull cut instead of the actual outside edge.

They could have easily made the cams a little longer (at least 1/2 inch tall or 5/8) and avoided this issue. Since the hinge cup pockets are going to be 1/2” it doesn’t make any sense as to why the cams are so short.

As it is, to use the jig the way it’s designed, I’ll have to either modify the cams to make them longer, or change my order of operations to cut the hinge cups prior to shaping the outside of the doors.

Hopefully this helps someone else. I like the jig in general, but just resent the need to change my normal work patterns to address an issue that has no real technical reason.


-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

View Mike_D_S's profile


797 posts in 3458 days

5 comments so far

View kajunkraft's profile


197 posts in 3454 days

#1 posted 04-09-2018 11:55 PM

Obviously you make a lot more doors than I do, but I always drill the hinge holes before most final finishing. Something about having a straight, crisp edge to reference from? Only recently purchased the Kreg jig and so far, so good.

View Desert_Woodworker's profile


8178 posts in 2458 days

#2 posted 04-10-2018 01:43 AM

Nice review of the “Kreg”. In my years of cabinet making, the “shop built” jig then the CNC- work just great.
Thanks for the review…

-- Desert_Woodworker

View Mike_D_S's profile


797 posts in 3458 days

#3 posted 04-10-2018 04:18 AM

Its not really a problem to change the order of operations. I think the thing that’s bothering me the most is there is no real reason to make the cams so short given the minimum door thickness you work with.

As I never pass up a chance to play with my CNC, I’ll probably draw up the cam shape and cut some extensions with the CNC machine and epoxy them in to extend the lengths.

-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

View scarpenter002's profile


619 posts in 5149 days

#4 posted 05-06-2018 01:23 AM

I have the same jig and wrote a review on it. My doors were Shaker style, so I did not run into the same issue as you did with the short cams. My biggest beef was the pattern left by the back of the jig, when using the newer self adjusting clamps.

Thanks for the review. I will certainly keep your findings in mind moving forward.

-- Scott in Texas

View Mike_D_S's profile


797 posts in 3458 days

#5 posted 05-06-2018 02:50 AM


FYI, though you don’t need to adjust them for clamping thickness, the automaxx clamps are still adjustable for clapping pressure. If you are leaving marks from the jig, you can dial back the clamping pressure on the clamps.

I think the come adjusted pretty tight, when I first got a few it seemed I was basically having to go full gorilla to get them clamp. After dialing the back they’re much easier to lock down, though I still prefer the manual ones for certain things.


-- No honey, that's not new, I've had that forever......

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