LumberJocks

All Replies on Best method for controlling wood boring insects

  • Advertise with us
View 08k8's profile

Best method for controlling wood boring insects

by 08k8
posted 09-19-2017 03:17 AM


19 replies so far

View WDHLT15's profile

WDHLT15

1816 posts in 2893 days


#1 posted 09-19-2017 12:10 PM

What you are seeing is ambrosia beetle damage. They will leave as the wood begins to dry. They are not a problem other than the little holes that they leave. They can only survive in green wood. You are right to worry about other wood borers like powderpost beetles that will infest the dry wood. Spraying with borate will prevent them from infesting the wood.

Timbor and Solubor are 98% disodium octaborate tetrahydate (DOT). It is a boric salt. It is not the same as borax. Borax will probably work, but the DOT is formulated for making the boron more available for controlling the insects. I mix 6 pounds of DOT to 5 gallons of water and spray the boards on ALL sides until the wood is soaked. The wood has to be protected from the rain as DOT is water soluable and the water will wash out the borate.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

View 08k8's profile

08k8

11 posts in 667 days


#2 posted 09-19-2017 12:27 PM

WDHLT15- thanks for your quick reply. SO, I did purchase some Timbor on Amazon…. and I plan to spray as you suggest. I spent ~$50 for 6# but- I figure that I cannot go wrong with this approach and it is what you recommend.. The wood is too valuable to me to take risk.

My frugal side is always intrigued though. I AM curious though if anyone has good luck with 20 Mule team. This is ~$7 for 4 pounds….. Others on this site have mentioned success using the product, and it is available at all of the big box stores.

I’m curious of successful mixing ratios etc.

-- Too many hobbies.

View Hockey's profile

Hockey

170 posts in 829 days


#3 posted 09-19-2017 02:39 PM

Danny, where do the ambrosia beetles go after they leave? Do they go find growing trees to get some green wood?

View WDHLT15's profile

WDHLT15

1816 posts in 2893 days


#4 posted 09-20-2017 02:07 AM

Yes, they find stressed or dying trees. They are opportunists.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

View Hockey's profile

Hockey

170 posts in 829 days


#5 posted 09-20-2017 02:13 AM

Thanks, Danny.

View 08k8's profile

08k8

11 posts in 667 days


#6 posted 09-20-2017 11:31 AM

I used a moisture meter to measure the 4/4 stock and found that I was ~26%. This is 2 weeks after the tree was sawn. I’ll spray the Timbor on and RE-STACK the entire pile with 3/4 stickers.

Is there anything else I should do?

-- Too many hobbies.

View 08k8's profile

08k8

11 posts in 667 days


#7 posted 09-22-2017 05:30 PM

OK.. Thanks to Amazon, the Timbor showed up quickly.

Do you guys allow the boards to dry completely before stickering them? I’m worried about putting the stickers onto the wet wood and leaving lines.

-- Too many hobbies.

View WDHLT15's profile

WDHLT15

1816 posts in 2893 days


#8 posted 09-23-2017 12:09 AM

They should surface dry quickly, only an hour or two, then you can sticker them.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

View Fresch's profile

Fresch

434 posts in 2337 days


#9 posted 09-23-2017 12:40 AM

I mix 20 mule with sugar dry to kill ants around my camp, works good not sure about other pest types.
The ants take both sugar and mule back and feed the babies, the ones that get sugar give out nectar to the workers that’s how they feed, the ones that eat mule die soon the ants die due to lack of food.

View 08k8's profile

08k8

11 posts in 667 days


#10 posted 10-02-2017 04:59 PM

Well, I’ve noticed over the past ~ 2 weeks that the boring insects have slowed BUT, they are not stopped. I used the Timbor as suggested (15% strength.)

Could I be battling something here that is NOT controlled by Timbor?https://s3.amazonaws.com/vs-lumberjocks.com/ox7gipa.jpg!

-- Too many hobbies.

View WDHLT15's profile

WDHLT15

1816 posts in 2893 days


#11 posted 10-03-2017 11:49 AM

Timbor will prevent reinfestation and will protect against powderpost beetles, which only infest the wood after it is dry.

Sounds like some ambrosia beetles are still leaving the wood. Timbor will not prevent any ambrosia beetle eggs or larvae that were in the wood, before spraying, from boring out to leave. It will likely kill them as the bore out to the treated surface of the wood. Do you see any little small dead black beetles on the wood?

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

View 08k8's profile

08k8

11 posts in 667 days


#12 posted 10-03-2017 12:04 PM

I do not see any black beetles. The only evidence is the small mound of sawdust on the board.

Just to be clear- this can NOT be termites, correct?

Is there any way to fully understand what I’m dealing with here?

-- Too many hobbies.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7789 posts in 3331 days


#13 posted 10-03-2017 05:21 PM

I went through this several years ago. Gained some good information from fellow LJs…

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/60652

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View 08k8's profile

08k8

11 posts in 667 days


#14 posted 10-04-2017 11:43 AM

Thanks HorizontalMike. I actually ready your story prior to posting this. As a result, I pulled the bark off of all live edges and got rid of all bugs that went along with them. A few days of sitting outside with a tarp on top and they were all gone.

I see NO insects on the wood. Just these tiny piles of sawdust roughly 1/4” diameter. I sure don’t want to lose the lot of wood or infest my shop…....

I’ve been drying this with a fan & dehumidifier. The RH of the shop is going down and I get a constant drip from the humidifier hose. I do have a moisture meter and I’ve been probing a few of the 1” stock on the exposed edge. I’m really worried about the 9/4 stock because it is drying more slowly..

-- Too many hobbies.

View avsmusic1's profile

avsmusic1

442 posts in 1102 days


#15 posted 10-04-2017 03:38 PM

I’m no expert so you’ll want some more knowledgeable folks to chime in but I have two things to add

1. From the pics, it looks like the holes are in the lighter sapwood portions – this is softer wood and probably is further evidence that it’s ambrosia beetles (they only seem to ever eat the sapwood on the stacks I’ve dried)

2. I’d be really careful about how quickly you dry and dry oak, especially the 9/4. You didn’t mention how long ago you had the log sawn or when you started with the dehumidifier, but I’ve had terrible luck trying to dry oak with anything other than open air until it was basically at equilibrium

View 08k8's profile

08k8

11 posts in 667 days


#16 posted 10-04-2017 03:49 PM

The insect holes are not in the sap wood areas- the are deffinately in the heart wood of the tree. Surprisingly, I do not have a lot of activity by the live edges.

The wood was sawn 3 weeks ago and been inside w/ the dehumidifier for 2 weeks now. My shop is 900 sq ft and I brought about 500bf of 1” stock in & a whole lot of 9/4 (6) 20” slabs, and a bunch of assorted smaller salvaged pieces.

In my mind, since I’m storing the wood inside, I need to run the dehumidifier. It is a very slow process to extract the moisture- so I don’t think I’ll over dry the wood this way. I suppose that I could turn it down from “max” at some point and control the humidity in the room to the appropriate level.

Last year, we took a 30+” walnut tree in and milled slabs. Good luck so far drying the same way in my dad’s shop.

-- Too many hobbies.

View avsmusic1's profile

avsmusic1

442 posts in 1102 days


#17 posted 10-05-2017 12:45 AM

Gotcha – The colors must be coming up wonky on my screen so it seemed like sapwood

Respectfully, I would suggest you slow down the drying. The 4/4 may be fine but I have had a hell of a time trying to dry thicker oak with a dehumidifier. I’m no expert though so I’d also suggest asking around woodweb and forestryforum for drying suggestions/rates on the 9/4

View 08k8's profile

08k8

11 posts in 667 days


#18 posted 10-05-2017 11:12 AM

NO worries- I’m asking for your feedback ;)

What sort of problems did you have drying thick oak with the dehumidifier?

I took the time to cut up a couple of slabs that had various splits and cracks. In doing this, the salvage 9/4 material turned out to be ~ 8” wide or so- This is shown in the picture above. I was really surprised to see how wet the wood is in the center. All edge surfaces of course are dryer. I’ve read online that some say the water will never fully migrate out with the technique that I’m attempting.

-- Too many hobbies.

View WDHLT15's profile

WDHLT15

1816 posts in 2893 days


#19 posted 10-05-2017 11:52 AM

Sure does look like ambrosia beetles abandoning the ship. The wood is much too wet for powderpost beetles.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT40HD35 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln. hamsleyhardwood.com

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com