All Replies on How would you make this cut

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View Nwdesigns's profile

How would you make this cut

by Nwdesigns
posted 08-22-2017 03:54 PM

20 replies so far

View buckbuster31's profile


256 posts in 1397 days

#1 posted 08-22-2017 03:58 PM

band saw, get it close then chisel the rest is how I would do it

View gwilki's profile


359 posts in 2355 days

#2 posted 08-22-2017 03:58 PM

Table saw with a dado set. Router table with a 3/4 bit in the router. Jig saw. Band saw.

What tools do you have available to you?

-- Grant Wilkinson, Ottawa ON

View Smitty_Cabinetshop's profile


16938 posts in 3500 days

#3 posted 08-22-2017 04:00 PM

Can three pieces be glued to get the slot, vs. cutting out several hundred slots? Even cutting an “L” and gluing a piece to reach final shape. Yeah, it’d be a total pain, but that’s unavoidable either way. Just a thought.

Otherwise, band saw for long cuts and hollow chisel mortiser for inside cut.

-- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. - OldTools Archive -

View Ripper70's profile


1378 posts in 1790 days

#4 posted 08-22-2017 04:02 PM

Maybe a 1.5” Forstner bit at the 7 1/2” mark and then a jig saw, band saw or table saw to cut away the waste.

-- "You know, I'm such a great driver, it's incomprehensible that they took my license away." --Vince Ricardo

View Bill Berklich's profile

Bill Berklich

1173 posts in 1270 days

#5 posted 08-22-2017 04:10 PM

How many? I think the build up from 3pc suggestion is #1 with Bandsaw/forstner bit/chisel #2

-- Bill - Rochester MI

View Nwdesigns's profile


28 posts in 1719 days

#6 posted 08-22-2017 04:19 PM

Several hundred pieces per week. Trying to figure out a production method with as few steps as possible. He wants to hire people to cut these out and therefore keep it simple. I don’t know if a router with a guide bushsing would work. It really needs to be a tight corner but i suppose a small diameter router bit might be close enough of a corner…

View Gilley23's profile


489 posts in 1263 days

#7 posted 08-22-2017 04:27 PM

Drill hole.
Bandsaw each side and one of the top cuts.
Jigsaw the other top cut.

3 guys.
1) Mark and drill
2) Bandsaw
3) Jigsaw

View Gilley23's profile


489 posts in 1263 days

#8 posted 08-22-2017 04:29 PM

What are these for, anyway?

View ChefHDAN's profile


1772 posts in 3731 days

#9 posted 08-22-2017 04:29 PM

Not sure what the end purpose/use of the piece is but I’d look to see if the mating piece could be radius’d to fit the bottom of the brindle with a half round, then set a fence and stop on a DP with a forstner bit to cut the top of the joint. Set a fence or fixed jig on the BS to cut the left & right “legs to the forstner bore.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View Loren's profile (online now)


10701 posts in 4529 days

#10 posted 08-22-2017 04:31 PM

If this is an ongoing thing consider sawing out
the bottom. You’ll go through a fair number
of skinny band saw blades but the speed of
sawing the end out would offset the cost.

Somebody will get very tired or hurt squaring
all those ends with a hollow chisel mortiser
I think.

Another approach would be to cut notches on
either edge and attach two parts in the notches
to complete the shape. Holes could be pre-drilled
in all 3 parts to ensure they line up when screwed.

View jmos's profile


917 posts in 3251 days

#11 posted 08-22-2017 04:40 PM

Do the inside corners need to be square? How straight do the cuts needs to be?

Given that your doing a LOT of these, and assuming very straight sides and square corners are needed, I think I would, punch out inside corners with a hollow chisel mortiser (should be able to set stops to make it quick and repeatable), rough cut with jig saw or band saw to get rid of bulk of waste, clean up with template and router with pattern bit.

If it can be messier (not-so-straight cuts and rounded corners), drill out corners and band sawing or jig sawing is probably the way to go.

If you want straight cuts, but the corners can be rounded, rough out with jig saw or band saw and then rout with pattern bit.

The 3-pc suggestion is also worth considering; rip them down on tabelsaw, crosscut what you don’t need on miter saw, and re-glue. Can you afford to loose two blade kerfs in width?

-- John

View Rich's profile


5967 posts in 1471 days

#12 posted 08-22-2017 04:42 PM

Band saw down to the base of the slot. Easy and repeatable with a fence and a stop block. Then a multitool fitted with a narrow blade to remove the center.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View Ron Aylor's profile

Ron Aylor

2649 posts in 1529 days

#13 posted 08-22-2017 06:26 PM

Hand rip saw and coping saw …

View papadan's profile


3584 posts in 4250 days

#14 posted 08-22-2017 06:51 PM

Chain saw!

View splintergroup's profile


4047 posts in 2104 days

#15 posted 08-22-2017 07:13 PM

That many cuts in construction wood makes me think of a bandsaw.

Too many possibilities of knots, etc to bother with an expensive router bit. A 1/2” blade on a bandsaw and a few minutes practice cutting the end of the slot flat, Bob’s your uncle!

You could put two people to work, one cutting the straight edges using a bandsaw setup with a fence and another person with a jig saw squaring up the bottom.

View jimintx's profile


934 posts in 2466 days

#16 posted 08-22-2017 07:26 PM

Several hundred pieces per week. Trying to figure out a production method with as few steps as possible. He wants to hire people to cut these out and therefore keep it simple. ... ...

- Nwdesigns

The three factors I highlights with italics lead me to say you should find a CNC shop to make these. No other methods truly seem to address the issues, and you’ve already indicated he plans to hire out the work.

-- Jim, Houston, TX

View Ocelot's profile


2619 posts in 3519 days

#17 posted 08-22-2017 08:26 PM

I’ll have a go…

If this is one end of a 2×4, first sort the material and mark the good end and stack for next operation. Discard any with knots near both ends.

Use a band saw and a mortising machine with a modified chisel.

Band saw obviously would be set up with a fence and a stop. It would help to have some roller tables or stands to move the material to the operator and away to be further processed or stacked.

Use a 3/4” hollow chisel. Modify the hollow chisel by cutting away 3 sides, leaving only one side of what used to be a hollow chisel. Throw away the drill bit and you don’t even plug in the mortiser. Now it’s just a straight chisel with a lever to push it. You’ll have to sharpen it after every 100 or so, so you might as well have two of them. Chisel will be weakened by removing the 3 sides, so material needs to be held very stable to avoid breaking the chisel.

Use fences and stops to position the work for consistency. At both stations, cut, flip, cut, next.


-- I intended to be a woodworker, but turned into a tool and lumber collector.

View Carloz's profile


1147 posts in 1473 days

#18 posted 08-22-2017 08:39 PM

this $170 gizmo will cut a deep slot through the whole stack at once or individual boards.

Of course the right way if this is a permanent project is to make deep cuts on a table saw then cut the center part of with a mortizer.

View Woodknack's profile


13503 posts in 3261 days

#19 posted 08-22-2017 08:55 PM

Drill hole.
Bandsaw each side and one of the top cuts.
Jigsaw the other top cut.

3 guys.
1) Mark and drill
2) Bandsaw
3) Jigsaw

- Gilley23


-- Rick M,

View Fresch's profile


505 posts in 2802 days

#20 posted 08-22-2017 09:29 PM

Drill 2 holes in corner, sabersaw between, bandsaw long cuts; cheap tools, fast, accurate, make a jig so no brains needed. Or what gilley23 said.

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