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View buckbuster31's profile

question on glue line rip

by buckbuster31
posted 08-01-2017 07:37 PM


17 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 4191 days


#1 posted 08-01-2017 07:46 PM

I think you need a jointer.

View buckbuster31's profile

buckbuster31

256 posts in 1059 days


#2 posted 08-01-2017 07:49 PM

I have a jointer. That has nothing to do with the question posed

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

8343 posts in 3919 days


#3 posted 08-01-2017 07:56 PM

The Freud 30T GLRs (LM74/LM75) use extremely tight side angles to give a more polished edge. It works well for the polished edges, but the same characteristics that cause the polish also cause more heat, which can lead to burning in thicker woods, thus the 1” recommendation.

An 18T will chomp through really thick would with less resistance, but also a rougher cut. Depending on your saw, you might find that a 24T rip blade would serve you well, giving a decent cut with no burning.

FWIW, Cripe Distribution offers the German made Delta Industrial 35-611 18T for < $30 on Ebay if you want to try one.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View papadan's profile

papadan

3584 posts in 3912 days


#4 posted 08-01-2017 08:13 PM

I will agree with knotscott on the lower tooth count for thicker ripping. That said, I have not had any problems with my Freud GLR burning any stock, I just slow down the feed rate with 8/4 stock.

View bonesbr549's profile

bonesbr549

1584 posts in 3610 days


#5 posted 08-01-2017 08:26 PM

I’m assuming a panel glue up. If standard thickness TS might be ok, but for thick stuff, I tend to like to face the pieces together and run accross jointer together, so if any off at all, they will offset one another and be perfect. (if one is at 90.2 the other would be 89.8 and compensate)

You get up into the 5 & 6/4 stuff and you might get some deflection in that blade. Go a lower tooth count and it will cut, but be a little ragged.

You could do your rough with your blade and finish with a hand plane.

Many ways to skin the cat.

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View Woodknack's profile

Woodknack

12929 posts in 2923 days


#6 posted 08-01-2017 08:51 PM

It’s about # of teeth inside the wood at any given time. More teeth give you a better cut but also more resistance and possibility of burning.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View Rich's profile

Rich

5001 posts in 1133 days


#7 posted 08-01-2017 10:16 PM


I think you need a jointer.

- Loren


I have a jointer. That has nothing to do with the question posed

- buckbuster31

Loren knows his stuff and gave you good advice. Pretty rude to dismiss it like that. Since you have a jointer, learn to use it. It’s the easiest way to ensure clean joints and a perfectly flat surface after glue up.

I’d explain in detail, but it has nothing to do with the question posed.

View martyoc's profile

martyoc

44 posts in 1460 days


#8 posted 08-01-2017 11:20 PM

I’ve used my Freud glue line rip on oak and walnut, mostly for table tops, with very good results with 4/4 to 6/4 thicknesses.

-- Marty O'C

View buckbuster31's profile

buckbuster31

256 posts in 1059 days


#9 posted 08-02-2017 01:36 AM


I think you need a jointer.

- Loren

I have a jointer. That has nothing to do with the question posed

- buckbuster31

Loren knows his stuff and gave you good advice. Pretty rude to dismiss it like that. Since you have a jointer, learn to use it. It s the easiest way to ensure clean joints and a perfectly flat surface after glue up.

I d explain in detail, but it has nothing to do with the question posed.

- RichTaylor

I agree, and I wasn’t necessary dismissing. Yes, I have a jointer and yes I know how to use and yes I use it prior to getting a glue line ready. My question, however, was not about the use of a jointer but rather the use of s glue line rip blade to rip thick stock. Nothing more nothing less.

View GR8HUNTER's profile

GR8HUNTER

6606 posts in 1256 days


#10 posted 08-02-2017 03:16 AM

I never had any trouble with mine as long as its sharp :<))

-- Tony---- Reinholds,Pa.------ REMEMBER TO ALWAYS HAVE FUN

View WhoMe's profile

WhoMe

1568 posts in 3787 days


#11 posted 08-03-2017 04:51 AM

I have a 3hp saw and when using it with a full kerf GLR on 8/4 maple, mahogany and cherry, I have not had any issues with burning. With a properly aligned saw, and the blade sharp, it produces really smooth edges. In really impressed and life the results. Especially since I don’t have a joiner.

-- I'm not clumsy.. It's just the floor hates me, the tables and chairs are bullies, the wall gets in the way AAANNNDDD table saws BITE my fingers!!!.. - Mike -

View AZWoody's profile

AZWoody

1461 posts in 1767 days


#12 posted 08-03-2017 04:57 AM


I think you need a jointer.

- Loren

I have a jointer. That has nothing to do with the question posed

- buckbuster31

Loren knows his stuff and gave you good advice. Pretty rude to dismiss it like that. Since you have a jointer, learn to use it. It s the easiest way to ensure clean joints and a perfectly flat surface after glue up.

I d explain in detail, but it has nothing to do with the question posed.

- RichTaylor

So I guess there’s no need to use a table saw after jointing? So joint one side, flip, joint the other and 2 parallel sides?
Glad I knew not to waste my time on the table saw now.

View Rich's profile

Rich

5001 posts in 1133 days


#13 posted 08-03-2017 05:16 AM


So I guess there s no need to use a table saw after jointing? So joint one side, flip, joint the other and 2 parallel sides?
Glad I knew not to waste my time on the table saw now.

- AZWoody

That wasn’t the point, and you know it. Nice try though.

View JohnDi's profile

JohnDi

79 posts in 1977 days


#14 posted 08-03-2017 10:13 AM

I just bought the same blade and used it to cut 3” African Mahogany on my TS 3650 for a bent lam curved rail.
I cut them about 3/16 wide and did not experience any significant burning.

View becikeja's profile

becikeja

1022 posts in 3356 days


#15 posted 08-03-2017 11:28 AM



I m assuming a panel glue up. If standard thickness TS might be ok, but for thick stuff, I tend to like to face the pieces together and run accross jointer together, so if any off at all, they will offset one another and be perfect. (if one is at 90.2 the other would be 89.8 and compensate)

- bonesbr549

This is new to me. Can you expand on this technique?

-- Don't outsmart your common sense

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

11873 posts in 3972 days


#16 posted 08-03-2017 11:56 AM

I’ve had better luck with the Tenryu IW-25524CBD1 10” ripping Blade in 8/4.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View buckbuster31's profile

buckbuster31

256 posts in 1059 days


#17 posted 08-03-2017 02:42 PM

actually it is a very good point. the only part of this entire thread that wasn’t the point was telling someone to learn to use a jointer when the question wasn’t even regarding a jointer but rather a saw blade.

So I guess there s no need to use a table saw after jointing? So joint one side, flip, joint the other and 2 parallel sides?
Glad I knew not to waste my time on the table saw now.

- AZWoody

That wasn t the point, and you know it. Nice try though.

- RichTaylor

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