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View jtm's profile

Laguna Resaw King Question

by jtm
posted 07-30-2017 06:21 PM


18 replies so far

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

1320 posts in 2446 days


#1 posted 07-31-2017 01:17 AM

Well that sucks because it’s a $150 blade. It may have been a bad weld. I have that blade on a14” and hope mine last along time.

I just realized you said it didn’t break on the weld. It may be the downside of running a 3/4 blade on a 14”” saw.

View Loren's profile

Loren

10720 posts in 4533 days


#2 posted 07-31-2017 01:24 AM

I had one years ago for a 20” saw that
broke after a year or so. Laguna was kind
enough to replace it. The second one lasted
a long time and was on the saw when I sold it.

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WhyMe

1320 posts in 2446 days


#3 posted 07-31-2017 02:01 AM

One thing I didn’t think to ask was are you bottoming out the tension spring when tighten the blade? That can cause a blade to break from not having any give in the tension if hitting a hard spot in the wood. The tension spring becomes like a shock absorber that’s bottomed out. It won’t absorb any shock.

View splintergroup's profile

splintergroup

4059 posts in 2108 days


#4 posted 07-31-2017 03:27 PM

14” saw?

Could be metal fatigue. Early carbide tipped blades were only recommended for 20”+ saws since the smaller diameter wheels tended to over-flex the metal, eventually causing failure. I believe this is still the case for thicker blades.

Either way, that break looks clean ‘nuff so if the rest looks ok, I’d just get it re-welded.

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3417 posts in 2683 days


#5 posted 07-31-2017 11:32 PM

I’ve never broken a Resaw King blade but my saw has a 20 inch wheel. I also leave my blade tensioned unless I’m out of the shop for a week or more.
But you might consider leaving your saws blade untensioned.Plus it is a very lite duty saw.
This is from Timber wolfs site I think.

ALWAYS DETENSION YOUR BANDS
When you are done cutting for the day, take the tension off your blade. Band saw blades, when warmed up from cutting, always stretch; and upon cooling shrink by tens of thousandths of an inch each cooling period. Therefore, blades, when left on the saw over tension themselves and leave the memory of the two wheels in the steel of the band, which will cause cracking in the gullet. When you leave the band on your saw under tension, not only do you distort the crown and flatten out the tires (which makes them very hard), but you also place undue stress on your bearings and shafts. Believe it or not; you can, and will damage your wheel geometry sooner or later and considerably shorten bearing life. You are also crushing your tires or V-belts.

-- Aj

View shipwright's profile

shipwright

8600 posts in 3683 days


#6 posted 07-31-2017 11:47 PM



I ve never broken a Resaw King blade but my saw has a 20 inch wheel. I also leave my blade tensioned unless I m out of the shop for a week or more.
But you might consider leaving your saws blade untensioned.Plus it is a very lite duty saw.
This is from Timber wolfs site I think.

ALWAYS DETENSION YOUR BANDS
When you are done cutting for the day, take the tension off your blade. Band saw blades, when warmed up from cutting, always stretch; and upon cooling shrink by tens of thousandths of an inch each cooling period. Therefore, blades, when left on the saw over tension themselves and leave the memory of the two wheels in the steel of the band, which will cause cracking in the gullet. When you leave the band on your saw under tension, not only do you distort the crown and flatten out the tires (which makes them very hard), but you also place undue stress on your bearings and shafts. Believe it or not; you can, and will damage your wheel geometry sooner or later and considerably shorten bearing life. You are also crushing your tires or V-belts.

- Aj2

Not to argue with Timberwolf but perhaps as a manufacturer they are being prudent and covering their asses against the worst possible case end user.
I have been using bandsaws commercially and as a hobbiest for nearly fifty years with sizes from 10” to 42” and have never either de-tensioned nor seen any of the above problems. My guess is that the majority of bandsaws never get de-tensioned but that’s just my guess.
Not wanting to start an argument, just surprised to read something like that so contrary to my experience.

-- Paul M ..............the early bird may get the worm but it’s the second mouse that gets the cheese! http://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/

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Aj2

3417 posts in 2683 days


#7 posted 08-01-2017 01:11 AM

I agree I don’t either.
I also don’t run a 1 wide carbide tipped blade on a 14 inch wheel.If the op has the same blade as mine then it’s .025 thick and that’s very good for a small wheel.But 1 inch wide that’s a lot for a small wheel.

-- Aj

View retfr8flyr's profile

retfr8flyr

386 posts in 2554 days


#8 posted 08-01-2017 02:53 AM

I have a Shop Fox 1706 bandsaw with the extension neck, 105 inch balde. I recently installed the Resaw King and it has been working great. Installation was easy and didn’t give me any problems. It is the best blade for resawing that I have used and I am very happy with it, yes it’s .25 width 3/4 inch and that’s the largest blade my saw will handle.

-- Earl

View WhyMe's profile

WhyMe

1320 posts in 2446 days


#9 posted 08-01-2017 08:28 PM



I agree I don t either.
I also don t run a 1 wide carbide tipped blade on a 14 inch wheel.If the op has the same blade as mine then it s .025 thick and that s very good for a small wheel.But 1 inch wide that s a lot for a small wheel.
- Aj2

Who said anything about a 1” blade on a 14” saw?.

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Aj2

3417 posts in 2683 days


#10 posted 08-01-2017 09:04 PM

I did because it looks like a 1 inch blade the op has on his saw that broke.I have two of them I use on my bandsaw but it’s a 20 inch saw. If he does get someone to Reweld the blade he might want to untension it when he’s not using it.
I’m ok if you don’t agree with me I have thick skin from roofing.:)

-- Aj

View Redoak49's profile

Redoak49

4923 posts in 2874 days


#11 posted 08-01-2017 10:16 PM

One thing I found useful was to measure the tension on the band saw blade. I did it following the Woodgears site method using a digital caliper. I did it a couple of times to understand how well the blade tension guide worked.

I wonder if taking the tension off the blade is more important for the bandsaw than the blade. It would be more important for smaller band saws using larger blades.

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WhyMe

1320 posts in 2446 days


#12 posted 08-02-2017 01:19 AM



I did because it looks like a 1 inch blade the op has on his saw that broke.I have two of them I use on my bandsaw but it s a 20 inch saw. If he does get someone to Reweld the blade he might want to untension it when he s not using it.
I m ok if you don t agree with me I have thick skin from roofing.:)

- Aj2

I didn’t understand your 1” comment because the OP said it was 3/4”.

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Aj2

3417 posts in 2683 days


#13 posted 08-02-2017 02:40 AM

No problem, Why Me .. I totally missed that. I guess it doesn’t matter anyways…..Laguna has their own thing going with their saws and blades so if they say the saw will tension a RK blade so be it.

-- Aj

View RajinCajun's profile

RajinCajun

43 posts in 4225 days


#14 posted 08-02-2017 10:27 PM

I had the exact same experience with my 1412 and the resaw king.
I moved into a house…never mind the details. Just know I don’t have room for a tablesaw anymore. ☹️ So I was trying to get by with a track saw and bandsaw. It’s been two years and it’s working out OK.
Anyway, after that experience, I switched to Timberwof and haven’t looked back. No more broken blades since then. What I can advise is to use the bandsaw more. You might be surprised at how experience with it will improve your results. And yes, I do de-tension it after each day in the shop.

-- Its a HOBBY...I already have a job.

View BLem's profile

BLem

1 post in 207 days


#15 posted 04-04-2020 07:41 PM

Just yesterday, I had this same exact problem. Just a hobbyist woodworker here. I’ve owned the 1412 with the 2.5 HP motor for about 6 months with fairly light use (mostly ripping and resawing 4-6” wide boards no longer than 1-2 feet. Yesterday I was resawing an 8in wide African mahogany board that was 2.5 ft long. About 60% of the way into the cut it started making a weird pulsating sound and then PING! The blade popped, not on its weld and right at the top of the board. It was a clean break that looks exactly like yours.

It definitely sucks to lose a $150 blade prior to getting your money’s worth out of it. I’ve yet to call Laguna about it. Have you contacted their customer service at all?

View therealSteveN's profile

therealSteveN

6473 posts in 1459 days


#16 posted 04-04-2020 08:05 PM

I’ve never ponied up the bux for a carbide tipped BS blade, so expensive, and unfortunately this isn’t the first really high priced blade I have heard of breaking with such little use.

On the opposite side of the scale I use HSS, Starrett brand blades in a logical size for my saw, and I feel like I am stealing something. I get great life from them, and they are simple cheap, and if you look for sales, and stock up on your sizes,, they are like 14 to 17 bux apiece, depending on size.

Mathematically I feel like I am winning, and I am able to resaw just fine, curve cuts are awesome too.

-- Think safe, be safe

View Aj2's profile

Aj2

3417 posts in 2683 days


#17 posted 04-04-2020 10:21 PM

I like the Resaw king blade it’s the smoothest bandsaw blade I’ve ever had. I don’t use mine for everyday tasks to me it’s a jointery blade.
I don’t believe a 14 wheel is the right for 1 inch or 3/4 inch blades. It’s just too small but Laguna has their own thing going with their saws and blades. And many have got good results from the two.
People spend way too much for tablesaws when a bandsaw should be top pick for a hobby woodshop.
Good Luck

-- Aj

View Rich's profile (online now)

Rich

5997 posts in 1475 days


#18 posted 04-04-2020 10:41 PM

I’ve had two breaks on my ReSaw King. Both happened in the small radius just below a tooth. It failed at that front point, and the blade first started pulsing outwards when that tooth came through due to the blade’s bending before the break. I believe the issue is with the depth of the gullets and the fact that it’s a 3/4” blade which leaves a relatively narrow width at that point. I doubt if it would be an issue with a 1” blade.

I bought the splice kit from Lee Valley long ago and it’s come in handy for repairing the breaks.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

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