20 replies so far
#1 posted 07-30-2017 04:51 AM |
I use a no.4 for finish planing. |
#2 posted 07-30-2017 04:58 AM |
I’ll see your #4 and raise you a half. |
#3 posted 07-30-2017 05:13 AM |
That’s a good typical combo to have. A lot depends on the wood you’re using and the projects you do. It took me a couple years to figure out my go-to planes. I bought cheap vintage at first and restored them because I knew I didn’t know what I was going to ultimately need. My milling planes (I don’t own a power planer or jointer): Stanley 40 1/2 Scrub Paul Sellers uses a 4 for almost anything, for example. I use an 8 on a lot of short pieces because of the mass. There is no ONE PROPER SET OF PLANES YOU MUST USE! Again, these are the ones I enjoy most and my list doesn’t include any of my blocks or specialty planes, scrapers, etc. I also have multiple blades for my bench planes depending on grain. I’ve sold off more than I own now, after trying them out. I love buying planes but I don’t have space for collecting, so I only own users. You need to find the ones you enjoy most. I suggest buying vintage, or find someone who will let you try out some planes so you can customize for your needs. Good luck and once you start down this road, you will never be able to get off it! |
#4 posted 07-30-2017 05:14 AM |
#4, Hi & Lo and standard sometimes the #3 for small jobs, Got a 5 1/4 for a jack. Never really found a need for a Scrub? Cabinet scraper and a Scraping plane take care of all final finish, well maybe a little chamfer with a LN 102? -- Lifting one end of the plank. |
#5 posted 07-30-2017 05:32 AM |
#4, #7 and #60/12. But remember they are only as good as they are sharp. If they ain’t sharp , they ain’t worth |
#6 posted 07-30-2017 06:38 AM |
You nailed it for me. #2 for jewelry boxes & small stuff. #3 small panels. #4 panels. #4-1/2 big panels and tables. -- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior. |
#7 posted 07-30-2017 11:38 AM |
#4, #7 and #60/12. But remember they are only as good as they are sharp. If they ain t sharp , they ain t worth Yes sir I’m aware of that, still learning the best ways to sharpen however Im getting there :) |
#8 posted 07-30-2017 02:14 PM |
Keep the #4 for a smoother at least until you get something else that can be made into a scrub type. You can take off a fair bit of wood without widening the mouth. Also a hatchet can work pretty well to really hog off wood. |
#9 posted 07-30-2017 02:28 PM |
Just curious… since I have only recently jumped into the “finishing” realm of shellac and dyes/stains and HVLP spray stuff, I thought hand planing smooth was not ideal for finishing due to the compacting of fibers, closing up pores, adhesion issues, etc? -- The Carpenter Bee is derived from the Ancient Greek word wood-cutter "xylokopos/ξυλοκὀπος" |
#10 posted 07-30-2017 02:31 PM |
My basic collection is: |
#11 posted 07-30-2017 02:43 PM |
A #4, #5Jack with an additional grooved blade, and a #7 Jointer, don´t care much about my scrub unless I am trying to square down rived lumber, can´t really find much use for it around the shop….. |
#12 posted 07-31-2017 03:41 PM |
Along the lines of the others. Smoothing plane (#3-5 1/2) depending on what feels comfortable in your hand. Block planes are useful. I prefer low angle adjustable mouth planes such as the (#60 1/2, or #65). Other adjustable mouth planes to consider are #9 1/2, #18 or #19. Non adjustable mouth would be a #220 or possibly a #102. How ever if you want a small block like the #102 I recommend you look at the Lie-Nielson. Also consider Joinery planes such as a router plane and shoulder planes. Rabbit Planes and grooving planes are also things to consider at some point. -- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov |
#13 posted 07-31-2017 04:39 PM |
Holbs, I’ve heard the same thing a bunch of times but have had 0 problems so far. Personally, a planed surface shines a bit more compared to sanded. The grain picture is clearer which I like. -- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior. |
#14 posted 07-31-2017 04:46 PM |
I think you can do just about anything with a #4, #5, #7, and a good block plane. That’s what I have (though the #7 is new and still being tuned up). My block plane is a Millers Falls low angle 56 (equivalent to a Stanley 60 1/2). I like it because it fits my hand perfectly, and I like the adjustable mouth. However, some people might find the Stanley 60 1/2 too small. Block planes come in all sorts of configurations, and I have found that block plane preferences are more idiosyncratic than bench plane preferences. If your #4 is in good shape, I would keep it and use it as a smoother, not a scrub plane. Your smoother needs to be your most precisely tuned plane, so if you have a good one already, don’t waste it! Hope that helps! |
#15 posted 07-31-2017 04:57 PM |
I agree. The 60 1/2 feels a bit small to me. For this reason, the #65 is my favorite block plane. -- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov |
#16 posted 07-31-2017 05:03 PM |
Wide belt sanding at too fine a grit can burnish |
#17 posted 07-31-2017 07:21 PM |
Holbs, My experience is not extensive by any means, but, as I understand it, these are all bigger problems with sanding than with planing. That’s why, for example, you have to worry about raising the grain on sanded wood but not on hand-planed wood. The biggest issue with hand planing is that it takes more skill than sanding to do properly. A poorly planed board is probably going to look a lot worse than a poorly sanded one, so sanding is the lower risk option. My personal preference is for planing, but that is really a subjective opinion. |
#18 posted 07-31-2017 11:57 PM |
#5 for traversing / rough work, then #8 for flattening and truing edges. A #4 for smoothing, unless it’s a larger panel where the #4 1/2 excels. I have a #40 and rarely use it, too aggressive. Low angle, adjustable mouth block is great to have; find one that fits your hand to get the most from it. A#65 is a solid choice. -- Don't anthropomorphize your handplanes. They hate it when you do that. -- OldTools Archive -- |
#19 posted 08-03-2017 11:05 PM |
The only thing I would change is I’d be looking for Sargent planes -- http://timetestedtools.net - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future. |
#20 posted 08-04-2017 02:16 AM |
Agreed, Don. Many of the old brands were of equal quality to Stanley and Record, and they can often cheaper to buy now. Millers Falls is also a good brand. So are Keen Kutter and Union. |
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