All Replies on TableTop Staining Uneven

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TableTop Staining Uneven

by ACO
posted 07-28-2017 06:09 PM

12 replies so far

View jmartel's profile


9075 posts in 3035 days

#1 posted 07-28-2017 06:14 PM

That is glue and wood filler that has soaked into the wood causing the light streaks. You will need to sand more than that on the top. Before you apply the conditioner/stain on the top, rub with some denatured alcohol to see if there will be any problem spots. It will evaporate quickly and you will know where to continue sanding.

-- The quality of one's woodworking is directly related to the amount of flannel worn.

View TungOil's profile


1383 posts in 1380 days

#2 posted 07-28-2017 06:15 PM

looks like glue to me. You need additional sanding at the glue joints.

For future projects, don’t wipe wet glue squeeze out off when doing the clamp up, it just pushes the excess glue into the wood pores. Instead, wait for about 20-30 minutes until the beads of glue skin over and carefully take them off with a chisel.

-- The optimist says "the glass is half full". The pessimist says "the glass is half empty". The engineer says "the glass is twice as big as it needs to be"

View Loren's profile


10719 posts in 4532 days

#3 posted 07-28-2017 07:13 PM

The only way to get those glue smears
off is to remove the wood. It can be done
with a paint scraper or hand scraper. If
too much material is removed however,
you’ll have to level the adjacent wood
to prevent the appearance of depressions
along the joints.

You can also sand the glue joints with a
power sander. The same problem can
occur though. Leveling can be approached
with a jack plane as well.

View ocean's profile


216 posts in 1718 days

#4 posted 07-28-2017 07:32 PM

The pictures look like pressure treated lumber. Is that what you used? If so you will never get the staining even. In addition you should not use PT for table tops. The PT chemicals are toxic. If it is not PT lumber everybody is correct about the glue and filler. They will not allow stain to penetrate properly. As how to fix, I would dig out the filler and use one which is closer in color to the final finish desired. Try sanding the glue areas again. In all likely hood it will not help. How about paint!

-- Bob, FL Keys

View ChefHDAN's profile


1772 posts in 3734 days

#5 posted 07-28-2017 07:38 PM

Is this an Ana White project???

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View ArtMann's profile


1483 posts in 1701 days

#6 posted 07-29-2017 12:50 AM

My opinion is you are going to need some serious material removal to get below the glue saturation. My approach would be to start with a random orbital sander and 80 grit. I would go up through 120, 150 and maybe 180, depending on what material is to be used for the top. Don’t waste your time with 320 or even 220 if you are going to use varnish. After the first coat, you will be sanding finish instead of wood anyway. That is when you need the fine grit. By the way, if you sand too smooth, the wood won’t take a stain very well.

View RustyHacksaw's profile


145 posts in 2148 days

#7 posted 07-29-2017 02:40 AM

That sure is frustrating. But don’t give up.

Be aware that the end piece you glued on will cause a problems. The table top will shrink. Probably a good 1/2” as the 2×6’s dry out. Being glued to the breadboard… something will give. Just be aware of this.

Keep sanding that sucker, and check with mineral spirits when you think you got it, and it’ll show if there is any glue left in there.

View Carloz's profile


1147 posts in 1476 days

#8 posted 07-29-2017 03:37 AM

Looking at your table uneven stain should be the least of your worries. I am afraid the table will crack at seams where the boards meet perpendicularly to each other. Especially that you used a lot of wood filler. It will most probably crumble out. So mark it as a learning project, and do not worry about the stain.

View ACO's profile


2 posts in 1187 days

#9 posted 07-29-2017 10:33 PM

Thank everyone for your responses and advice. Any suggestions as to poly? Ever used a wipe-on poly?

It is not treated lumber.

It is not an Ana White Project.

View ChefHDAN's profile


1772 posts in 3734 days

#10 posted 07-31-2017 08:18 PM

The Minwax wipe on poly is pretty user friendly, but the waterbased polycrylic is very easy to deal with either with a foam or bristle brush, unless you’ve got a sprayer which is my preference.

-- I've decided 1 mistake is really 2 opportunities to learn.. learn how to fix it... and learn how to not repeat it

View ArtMann's profile


1483 posts in 1701 days

#11 posted 07-31-2017 10:48 PM

wipe on polyurethane is about the best product and technique I know of to get a nice finish without a lot of skill. I used to use it a lot before I started spraying lacquer and varnish.

View JADobson's profile


1449 posts in 2996 days

#12 posted 08-01-2017 12:55 AM

I used general arm-r-seal for my pine tabletop not long ago. You can see it in my projects. It’s holding up well and was easy to apply.

-- No craft is very far from the line beyond which is magic. -- Lord Dunsany — Instagram @grailwoodworks

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