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Wood Filling Pores Padauk

by KevBotWorkshop
posted 07-19-2017 01:43 PM


6 replies so far

View JayT's profile (online now)

JayT

6211 posts in 2607 days


#1 posted 07-19-2017 02:16 PM

What I do for pore filling is to flood the surface with a heavy coat of natural Danish oil and then wet sand so that the pores fill with a combination of the oil and sawdust. It works well on any species I’ve used and color is guaranteed to be consistent. I just make sure to give extra time for the Danish oil to cure before doing anything else.

-- https://www.jtplaneworks.com - In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View Rich's profile

Rich

4494 posts in 985 days


#2 posted 07-19-2017 05:29 PM

I’ve used three products that I can recommend without hesitation. The first two are water based and the third is solvent based.

Aqua Coat is a gel-like clear product that you apply with a bondo spreader, pressing it into the pores and then scrape off the excess. It sands nicely, and after going over it with 220 grit, if you still want a more pore free surface, do one or two more applications. It does not affect the color of the wood in any way.

General Finishes Enduro water based sanding sealer is easy to use, and it too will not affect the color of the wood. It brushes on and sands easily. You can either do a brush and sand and repeat process, or brush on two or three coats, allowing it to dry in between, and do a final sanding.

Finally, Mohawk offers a aerosol spray lacquer based product called Heavy Body Sanding Sealer. It’s easy to use, and does give the wood that deeper look like regular lacquer. Sanding is optional, depending on the look you’re going for, and it dries almost dead flat. Since it is lacquer based, if you’re doing lacquer topcoats, they lay down very nicely.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

View Gilley23's profile

Gilley23

489 posts in 777 days


#3 posted 07-19-2017 05:40 PM

With the Danish Oil, are there any top coats to avoid that won’t adhere properly over top of the Danish Oil?


What I do for pore filling is to flood the surface with a heavy coat of natural Danish oil and then wet sand so that the pores fill with a combination of the oil and sawdust. It works well on any species I ve used and color is guaranteed to be consistent. I just make sure to give extra time for the Danish oil to cure before doing anything else.

- JayT


View Woodknack's profile (online now)

Woodknack

12817 posts in 2776 days


#4 posted 07-19-2017 05:53 PM

If you start with Danish oil I would stick with it. Makes everything simpler. Some are thinned varnish, some are thinned varnish with oil added. But you could top coat with varnish or shellac.

-- Rick M, http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

View JayT's profile (online now)

JayT

6211 posts in 2607 days


#5 posted 07-19-2017 06:13 PM

I use Watco Danish Oil and for some projects use it as the only finish. On others that need to withstand more abuse I have top coated with polyurethane. As long as you let the oil cure, then there is no problem. A couple projects were done with a shellac seal coat between the Danish Oil and poly, while others were not. There haven’t been issues either way.

-- https://www.jtplaneworks.com - In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.

View Rich's profile

Rich

4494 posts in 985 days


#6 posted 07-19-2017 06:55 PM

You can put any topcoat you want over Danish oil once it’s cured. Shellac is always a good safety net to prevent colors from bleeding.

-- Knowledge is not skill. Knowledge plus ten thousand times is skill. -- Shinichi Suzuki

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