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All Replies on bumpy lacque finish

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View Apjow's profile

bumpy lacque finish

by Apjow
posted 07-12-2017 04:48 PM


14 replies so far

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 3950 days


#1 posted 07-12-2017 06:07 PM

Poly is not lacquer, it’s a varnish.

Don’t pour the varnish on for another coat.

I would sand to level using 220 grit stearated
paper and a felt block. This will cut back the
high spots and work towards a more level
finish.

View Drew's profile

Drew

350 posts in 3402 days


#2 posted 07-12-2017 06:51 PM

What product are you using?

-- TruCraftFurniture.com

View Rich's profile

Rich

4156 posts in 892 days


#3 posted 07-12-2017 08:17 PM

Like Loren said, poly is not lacquer, however I can’t tell from your post which you’re using — polyurethane, or brushing lacquer.

-- Half of what we read or hear about finishing is right. We just don’t know which half! — Bob Flexner

View RobS888's profile

RobS888

2563 posts in 2147 days


#4 posted 07-12-2017 08:21 PM

I’ve never had good results using tack cloth. I use compressed air and my hand to clean the surface of dust.

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View Apjow's profile

Apjow

23 posts in 872 days


#5 posted 07-13-2017 01:15 AM

I used minwax helmsman spar urethane. I just tried sanding a small corner with 3000 grit sandpaper, and then rubbed it with car wax, so far it looks and feels great, I’ll see what it looks like tomorrow and see if I want to continue with that process. As for the compressed air, I don’t want to kick up anymore dust than I have to, I’m working in an old barn that already has it’s share of dust( I made a plastic room), and sorry for the mix up of terms for lacquer and varnish, I live in quebec, and our vocabulary is all mixed up between french and english. Thanks so much for the replies

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

5385 posts in 2796 days


#6 posted 07-13-2017 03:14 PM

Just a caution about using car wax. Most of them are heavy in silicone content, once applied to a furniture finish it would be at best very difficult to do anything else in terms of finish repair or additional coats, at worst it would be impossible without a complete strip to the bare wood. You will be better served using a paste wax meant for hardwood floors like Johnson’s paste wax, Trewax, or any of the dozens of other brands.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Drew's profile

Drew

350 posts in 3402 days


#7 posted 07-13-2017 05:21 PM

I second this!


Just a caution about using car wax. Most of them are heavy in silicone content, once applied to a furniture finish it would be at best very difficult to do anything else in terms of finish repair or additional coats, at worst it would be impossible without a complete strip to the bare wood. You will be better served using a paste wax meant for hardwood floors like Johnson s paste wax, Trewax, or any of the dozens of other brands.

- Fred Hargis


-- TruCraftFurniture.com

View CharlesNeil's profile

CharlesNeil

2475 posts in 4173 days


#8 posted 07-13-2017 06:38 PM

I third it

View KelleyCrafts's profile

KelleyCrafts

3622 posts in 1042 days


#9 posted 07-13-2017 09:18 PM

Also wait to wax it. Do the 3000 grit if it works for you but then wait a few weeks and wax it after that. Let the finish really cure not just dry. Use furniture wax not car wax.

-- Dave - http://kelleycrafts.com/ - pen blanks - knife scales - turning tools

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2159 posts in 2292 days


#10 posted 07-13-2017 09:35 PM

A Microsoft fiber cloth works great as a tack cloth. It will remove all the dust left, and that settles, after blowing off a surface with compressed air. A shop vac gets the majority of dust w/o blowing it into the air, and the microfiber cloth will get the rest. Use the shop vac to clean the dust off of the cloth.

View Apjow's profile

Apjow

23 posts in 872 days


#11 posted 07-14-2017 10:07 AM

I the end, I sanded the top really well at 220, wiped off the dust, ran the shop vac over the top. Made sure it was perfectly clean, waited a few hours for the dust to settle, and cleaned up again. Then I used a sponge brush to apply the spar urethane, and I got a perfect finish, so the moral of the story is “TAKE MY TIME”!!! And do it right. Thanks for all the feedback it really helped a lot, until next time…

View RobS888's profile

RobS888

2563 posts in 2147 days


#12 posted 07-14-2017 08:21 PM



A Microsoft fiber cloth works great as a tack cloth. It will remove all the dust left, and that settles, after blowing off a surface with compressed air. A shop vac gets the majority of dust w/o blowing it into the air, and the microfiber cloth will get the rest. Use the shop vac to clean the dust off of the cloth.

- OSU55


I can’t afford anything from Microsoft… I get them on sale from Amazon, like 40 for $25 dollars.

-- I always suspected many gun nuts were afraid of something, just never thought popcorn was on the list.

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2159 posts in 2292 days


#13 posted 07-16-2017 01:23 PM

Damn I try to catch the robots but I missed this one

View Carloz's profile

Carloz

1147 posts in 894 days


#14 posted 07-16-2017 04:50 PM



Also wait to wax it. Do the 3000 grit if it works for you but then wait a few weeks and wax it after that. Let the finish really cure not just dry. Use furniture wax not car wax.

- ki7hy


Why ? !
The reason people wait for the finish to fully cure is to do rubbing out on the hardest possible surface. So you should do final sanding after and not before the finish cures. The wax does not care when you apply it.

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