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View glorysk87's profile

Help - Bandsaw refuses to cut curves, blade just twists

by glorysk87
posted 02-23-2017 04:21 PM


29 replies so far

View mrbob's profile

mrbob

182 posts in 1047 days


#1 posted 02-23-2017 04:33 PM

Is that blade sharp?

View glorysk87's profile

glorysk87

11 posts in 935 days


#2 posted 02-23-2017 04:38 PM

it’s the blade that was on it – it doesn’t look like it’s in terrible shape, though it does seem to have a bit of trouble cutting.

View mrbob's profile

mrbob

182 posts in 1047 days


#3 posted 02-23-2017 04:51 PM

Then I would think it is the blade, they are not that expensive, I would get a new one.

View glorysk87's profile

glorysk87

11 posts in 935 days


#4 posted 02-23-2017 04:58 PM

Ok thanks, I will definitely try that. Are the blades at big box stores decent quality? Or should I shop online for a much better blade?

View mrbob's profile

mrbob

182 posts in 1047 days


#5 posted 02-23-2017 05:02 PM

The BB ones are sometimes ok if the are Olsons or Timber Wolf.

View glorysk87's profile

glorysk87

11 posts in 935 days


#6 posted 02-23-2017 05:04 PM

thanks, i’ll check tonight. if they don’t have those brands, any suggestion where i should buy from?

View Combo Prof's profile

Combo Prof

3887 posts in 1755 days


#7 posted 02-23-2017 05:10 PM

I agree its the blade. The teeth probbaly have no set. Try highlandwoodworking

-- Don K, (Holland, Michigan)

View glorysk87's profile

glorysk87

11 posts in 935 days


#8 posted 02-23-2017 05:14 PM

thanks, i will try that site – much appreciated.

View mrbob's profile

mrbob

182 posts in 1047 days


#9 posted 02-23-2017 05:17 PM

Wood Craft, Rockler also

View 000's profile

000

2859 posts in 1377 days


#10 posted 02-23-2017 05:20 PM

I would check the tension as well. Might not be tight enough.

View Loren's profile

Loren

10477 posts in 4126 days


#11 posted 02-23-2017 05:32 PM

+1 on the tension.

The rule of thumb I use is I set the guide at 6”
and press the blade sideways with three
fingers… the fingertips should go white
with only about 1/4” of deflection.

View glorysk87's profile

glorysk87

11 posts in 935 days


#12 posted 02-23-2017 05:34 PM

Thanks – I think the tension is ok. There’s very little play in the blade when putting pressure on it from the side. But I will check again tonight to see if I should adjust it.

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 1964 days


#13 posted 02-23-2017 05:48 PM

What size blade is that?

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View glorysk87's profile

glorysk87

11 posts in 935 days


#14 posted 02-23-2017 06:44 PM

1/4” blade i believe, 14” saw

View Maximum's profile

Maximum

22 posts in 961 days


#15 posted 02-23-2017 06:54 PM

glory, only check the tension with the machine off… :)

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

10859 posts in 1964 days


#16 posted 02-23-2017 06:54 PM

Wow. That thing must have no set at all.

The Bosch blades at Home Depot are serviceable.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Ted78's profile

Ted78

401 posts in 2478 days


#17 posted 02-23-2017 06:57 PM

I’m jumping on the not set to the teeth bandwagon. You can set them just like you would on a handsaw, but just buying a new blade would be easier

-- Ted

View glorysk87's profile

glorysk87

11 posts in 935 days


#18 posted 02-23-2017 07:06 PM



glory, only check the tension with the machine off… :)

- Maximum

haha – thanks for the tip XD

View bonesbr549's profile

bonesbr549

1583 posts in 3545 days


#19 posted 02-23-2017 07:17 PM

Ok others said blade too wide for tight curves. Plus that type of guide does not allow that blade to move which it does need to do.

I have two bandsaws. My first is 17” with 1” carbide tipped blade with somewhat similar gudes ment to keep the blade strait while cutting boards in to pieces minimizing diflection.

My second bandsaw is a 14” 1934 Delta with a 1/4” blade on it for cutting curved work. Further the best upgrade I made was putting a carter guilde for scroll cutting

http://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-stabilizer

It puts the support behind the blade and free’s it for lateral movement. Best best thing I did.

You could switch back n forth if you cant do the 2 saws. BTW picked up that 2nd saw for 200$
love that old saw.

Good luck.

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View PPK's profile

PPK

1504 posts in 1287 days


#20 posted 02-23-2017 07:19 PM

You said you have tuned it, but make sure that the guide bearings are set tight against the blade. If they aren’t “squeezing” the blade, the blade will just twist because there’s nothing guiding it. Otherwise, if that’s not the case, get a new blade. Menards has olson blades for $10 each in common sizes. i think 93.5” is the size for a 14” bandsaw

-- Pete

View glorysk87's profile

glorysk87

11 posts in 935 days


#21 posted 02-23-2017 07:23 PM



You said you have tuned it, but make sure that the guide bearings are set tight against the blade. If they aren t “squeezing” the blade, the blade will just twist because there s nothing guiding it. Otherwise, if that s not the case, get a new blade. Menards has olson blades for $10 each in common sizes. i think 93.5” is the size for a 14” bandsaw

- PPK

If the guides are touching won’t that generate a whole lot of heat and dull the blade very quickly?

View glorysk87's profile

glorysk87

11 posts in 935 days


#22 posted 02-23-2017 07:23 PM



Ok others said blade too wide for tight curves. Plus that type of guide does not allow that blade to move which it does need to do.

I have two bandsaws. My first is 17” with 1” carbide tipped blade with somewhat similar gudes ment to keep the blade strait while cutting boards in to pieces minimizing diflection.

My second bandsaw is a 14” 1934 Delta with a 1/4” blade on it for cutting curved work. Further the best upgrade I made was putting a carter guilde for scroll cutting

http://www.carterproducts.com/band-saw-products/band-saw-stabilizer

It puts the support behind the blade and free s it for lateral movement. Best best thing I did.

You could switch back n forth if you cant do the 2 saws. BTW picked up that 2nd saw for 200$
love that old saw.

Good luck.

- bonesbr549

Thanks for the link bones – can that guide be fit to any saw?

View PPK's profile

PPK

1504 posts in 1287 days


#23 posted 02-23-2017 07:34 PM

If they are the square block guides, then yes, it would generate some heat. I don’t mean super tight, just not allow the blade to wiggle back and forth. The good guides are actual bearings, and I don’t think its possible to make them too tight, since the blade rolls along the bearings. I suspect however, that you just need a new, sharp blade with more set to the teeth. The set of the tooth is what allows a blade to curve.

-- Pete

View Combo Prof's profile

Combo Prof

3887 posts in 1755 days


#24 posted 02-23-2017 07:36 PM

See Bandsaw radius chart

A 1/4” blade should be able to cut a radius of 5/8” but no smaller. For scroll work I keep a 1/8” blade on my 12” bandsaw. I keep a 3/4” resaw blade on my 20” bandsaw.

-- Don K, (Holland, Michigan)

View pottz's profile

pottz

5946 posts in 1462 days


#25 posted 02-23-2017 07:43 PM

yeah get a new blade then set it up as loren stated and you should be fine,as long as others have said and the guides are properly set also.and as others stated makes sure the guides are correctly set.

-- sawdust the bigger the pile the bigger my smile-larry,so cal.

View glorysk87's profile

glorysk87

11 posts in 935 days


#26 posted 02-23-2017 07:46 PM



If they are the square block guides, then yes, it would generate some heat. I don t mean super tight, just not allow the blade to wiggle back and forth. The good guides are actual bearings, and I don t think its possible to make them too tight, since the blade rolls along the bearings. I suspect however, that you just need a new, sharp blade with more set to the teeth. The set of the tooth is what allows a blade to curve.

- PPK

forgive me for being a total idiot. but what do you mean by “set to the teeth”

View OSU55's profile

OSU55

2383 posts in 2467 days


#27 posted 02-23-2017 07:49 PM

From the pics the blade teeth dont appear to have any set. A new blade is the best path, but inspect the old blade for tooth set. Should be able to see it and feel it with your fingers. If the side guides, top and/or bottom were ever set too far up on the teeth, the set is flattened. You appear to have them positioned correctly now.

View Combo Prof's profile

Combo Prof

3887 posts in 1755 days


#28 posted 02-23-2017 07:54 PM

It is also possible the previous owner for some application perhaps re-sawing or just rip-sawing did not want any set and “stoned” the blade to have a smoother cut. (He held a sharpening stone against the blade side while it spun.)

-- Don K, (Holland, Michigan)

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

7468 posts in 2677 days


#29 posted 02-23-2017 07:58 PM

If the guides are touching won t that generate a whole lot of heat and dull the blade very quickly?
- glorysk87

First off – the guides should not be touching the blade but be just a hair away from them. Secondly, even if they were touching, the heat myth is not an issue. See this review of blade guides by Jim Mattson over at the Woodworkers Gazette: 14 inch bandsaw blade guide review
On the second page, he deliberately forces the HSS guide blocks hard into the blade to test the ‘heat’ theory. Didn’t happen.

As to the problem of not being able to cut curves… get a new blade and then watch the obligatory band saw tune up video: Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass

With the stock guides, here are the limitations for various blade sizes:

If you need tighter curves, then the carter stabilizer is the way to go. If you are handy, you can also make your own using a v-groove bearing and some creativity.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

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