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All Replies on bandsaw blade out of round

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View avapilot's profile

bandsaw blade out of round

by avapilot
posted 02-22-2017 06:39 PM


9 replies so far

View mrbob's profile

mrbob

182 posts in 958 days


#1 posted 02-22-2017 06:44 PM

What do you mean when you saw you keep it on the wheels? When it is running?

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1243 posts in 2384 days


#2 posted 02-22-2017 06:47 PM

Go to YouTube and look for the Alex Snodgrass band saw set up video. If you follow his instructions and the blade still falls off, it’s probably the blade.

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View HerbC's profile

HerbC

1801 posts in 3249 days


#3 posted 02-22-2017 07:35 PM

Also, using a 1/4 blade with a riser block installed is probably wrong. The purpose of the rise block is to increase your maximum resaw width and you generally want to use as wide a blade as the saw will use when resawing (typically 1/2 inch wide blade with a low tooth count, ideally 2 to 3 teeth per inch).

I may be wrong here since it’s been years since I had a bandsaw. Perhaps others will chime in and give you more detailed advice.

Good Luck!

Be Careful!

Herb

-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!" http://lumberjocks.com/HerbC/blog/17090

View bbasiaga's profile

bbasiaga

1243 posts in 2384 days


#4 posted 02-27-2017 02:21 AM

Wouldn’t be best for resawing, but you should still be able to do detail work with a saw with a riser block on it.

Brian

-- Part of engineering is to know when to put your calculator down and pick up your tools.

View Kelly's profile

Kelly

2288 posts in 3333 days


#5 posted 02-27-2017 02:31 AM

A quarter inch blade runs on my fourteen inch Powermatic ninety percent of the time. I do run it using a Carter Stabilizer guide, rather than the upper and lower bearing guides, but that is choice and not necessity.

I usually run a three or four teeth per inch blade, since I’m usually cutting things too thick for, say, a ten TPI.

If I were cutting a lot of thin stuff, I’d go with more teeth. I might even go to a 1/8” blade, but they are harder to find in the 105” sizes.


Also, using a 1/4 blade with a riser block installed is probably wrong. The purpose of the rise block is to increase your maximum resaw width and you generally want to use as wide a blade as the saw will use when resawing (typically 1/2 inch wide blade with a low tooth count, ideally 2 to 3 teeth per inch).

I may be wrong here since it s been years since I had a bandsaw. Perhaps others will chime in and give you more detailed advice.

Good Luck!

Be Careful!

Herb

- HerbC


View Kelly's profile

Kelly

2288 posts in 3333 days


#6 posted 02-27-2017 02:35 AM

Are you running with the blade gullet on the center of the upper wheel and with enough tension?

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

874 posts in 3711 days


#7 posted 02-27-2017 02:39 AM

To answer the OP’s question most of the time a kinked bandsaw blade isn’t worth the trouble and belongs in the trash. I am not saying you can’t get it to run but it will never be the same and they are inexpensive. I have had sections cut out and the band rewelded on much longer and much more expensive carbide blades but they were worth the cost and the saws they were on were less finicky about blade length.

View Lazyman's profile

Lazyman

3412 posts in 1777 days


#8 posted 02-27-2017 02:49 AM

Did you bend/ kink the blade? Is that what you mean by out of round? You can just try bending it back into shape and may be able to use a vise to help straighten it out—just don’t clamp the teeth and ruin the set. It will likely vibrate and click as that part of the blade moves around various parts of the blade path and the kerf may be pretty ugly but should still useable when rougher cuts are ok.

Or when you lay it on a flat surface is it not flat? If that is the case, I think it is ruined.

Do your other blades track ok?

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View Nubsnstubs's profile

Nubsnstubs

1567 posts in 2119 days


#9 posted 02-27-2017 04:11 AM

Put your blade back on, and slowly turn the wheels by hand while adjusting the top wheel tracking. Once the blade goes to the center of the top wheel, and stays there, it should be adjusted properly. Close the door, and turn it on. If it comes off, you need to realign things. A bent blade can be straightened without issue. .......... Jerry (in Tucson)

-- Jerry (in Tucson) www.woodturnerstools.com

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