All Replies on Delta 36-725 Fence Rail Assembly

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Delta 36-725 Fence Rail Assembly

by Kmcampbe
posted 02-21-2017 09:54 PM

6 replies so far

View MrUnix's profile


7533 posts in 2767 days

#1 posted 02-21-2017 10:09 PM

Front rail should be the only critical alignment that is needed. The rear rail is not as critical. Shim if needed… but I wouldn’t use wood shim material. You can cut up an old soda/beer can for aluminium shim stock, get some cheap feeler gauges to use as shim stock, or in many cases, just use some masking tape. Depends on how much you need to shim.


-- Brad in FL - In Dog I trust... everything else is questionable

View Lazyman's profile


4229 posts in 1955 days

#2 posted 02-22-2017 12:05 AM

The 2 part rail design is the worst part about this saw. It took me several attempts to get them setup properly. The setup gauge they supplied was almost useless. It is not a precision milled device so it only gets the approximate height of the angle iron right so that the fence will be the at the right height when it is on but doesn’t really help you get the 2 piece rail level or aligned correctly. It has been 2.5 years since I set mine up so this is starting to get into ancient memory.

I think that the first thing I had to do was shim the wings using masking tape to get them as close to level as possible to the cast iron top before even trying to put the rails on because they tend to sag on the ends. I think that I had to put a strip or 2 of masking tape long the lower half of the edges where they joined to the cast iron so that it was level with the cast iron when I tighten the bolts that hold the wings on. Use a straight edge to get each wing as close to perfect as possible.

Then mount the front angle iron using the the supplied gauge to get the height about right at along the entire length. If the wings aren’t level, the gauge won’t help much with that. Then you need to again use a straight edge, the longer the better, to make sure that where the 2 ends of the angle iron join up are level with each other. After each tweak, make sure that the wings are still co-planar with the cast iron top. You may find you have to add additional shim material, aluminum, plastic or even cereal box between the wings and the cast iron to re-level the wings as you go. While the supplied gauge can be used to make sure that it about right. I started using a ruler to make sure it was level across the entire length. Let a straight edge protrude off the edge of the cast iron and use a square with a scale to measure that the height is the same at both ends of the cast iron table but it is more important for the 2 halves to be straight than perfectly level with the top. It is not as critical for the rear rail to be as perfect but use the same basic approach to get it straight as well. This is where the supplied gauge will get you close enough. Just use a straight edge to get it as close as possible.

If I remember correctly, I think that for me at least the square rail went on easily after making sure that angle iron was perfectly straight. It was more precisely made so seemed to go on with no problems.

BTW, You will want to check out fellow LJ thetinman’s reviews or blogs and projects related to this saw. He provides some great advice for setup and tuning. If my advice contradicts his, definitely use his.

-- Nathan, TX -- Hire the lazy man. He may not do as much work but that's because he will find a better way.

View WhyMe's profile


1196 posts in 2129 days

#3 posted 02-22-2017 12:06 AM

I have this saw and don’t understand where shims would be needed to level the rails. Can you post a picture of where you think shims are needed?

View Runner's profile


84 posts in 1341 days

#4 posted 02-22-2017 12:09 AM

If I remember right, I think I clamped the two front rails to my straight edge (48”). Then I mounted it to the saw. The back rails don’t need to be perfect.

-- Kjell - Eau Claire WI

View WhyMe's profile


1196 posts in 2129 days

#5 posted 02-22-2017 12:24 AM

The only thing I can think of is not to tighten the bolts that connect the wings to the cast table. Leave the wings loose to the cast top so they can be moved up and down. Install the angle iron rails and level rails to cast top and tighten rails to cast top. Then level the wings and tighten wing bolts to rail first, then finish up with tightening the wing bolts to cast top. This is the procedure I used also with laying a long level across the table to level the wings. I also did the same as Runner stated with clamping the two part rail to my 48” level to keep it straight when attaching it to the cast top.

View Kmcampbe's profile


2 posts in 1036 days

#6 posted 02-23-2017 12:09 AM

Thanks for the advice, I’ll get some pictures posted tomorrow or Friday if I have a chance. I think that the can option for shims is going to be the way to go.


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